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The 

Robert  E.  Gross 
Collection 

A  Mémorial  to  the  Founder 
of  the 


Business  Administration  Library 
Los  Angeles 


"S^ 


-«■>. 


TRAVELS 

ROUND     THE     WORLDI 


IN      THE      YEARS 


1767,     17685     1769,     1770,      1771, 


B  Y 


MOT^SIEUR   DE   PAGES, 


CAPTAIN     IN     THE      FRENCH      NAVY,    KNIGHT     OF      THE 

ROYAL     AND     MILITARY    ORDER.    OF    ST.     LOUIS» 

AND     CORRESPONDING    MEMBER     OF     THE 

ACADEMY    OF     SCIENCES 

AT     PARIS. 


TRANSLATED    FROM    THE    FRENCH. 


VOLUME    THE    THIRD 


LONDON: 

PRINTED    FOR    J.    MURRAY,    w'^ja,    FLEET  STREET. 

M.DCC.XCIL 


THE    TRANSLATOR'S 

ADVERTISEMENT, 

X  HE  Tranflator  finding 
that  thefe  voyages  were  known 
to  few  Englifh  readers,  was  at 
confiderable  pains  to  obtain  more 
particular  information  concern- 
ing the  author,  than  could  be 
collefted  from  his  works.  After 
failing  in  feveral  channels,  he  ap- 
plied to  a  literary  friend  in  a 
neighbouring  kingdom,  from 
whom  he  had  the  fatisfaftion  to 
learn,  that  Mr.  Pages  was  at  Paris 
about  fix  years  ago,  but  had 
failed  foon  after  with  his  family 
for  his  ellate  in  St.  Domingo.  En- 
couraged by  this  intelligence  the 
tranflator  addreffed  a  letter  to  the 

A  2  author 


ÎV  ADVERTISEMENT. 

author  at  Baradaire    in   St.  Do- 
mingo,    and  was  favoured  with 
an  anfwer  from  that  ifland  dated 
the    ift  of  Nov.  1791. 

After  thanking  the  tranflator 
in  polite  terms,  for  doing  him  the 
honour  as  he  expreffes  it,  of  in- 
troducing his  work  into  the  Eng- 
lifh  language,  Mr.  Pages  gives  rea- 
fons  for  having  avoided  in  his 
Travels,  fuch  a  detail  refpefting 
places  and  perfons,  particularly  in 
what  related  to  himfelf,  as  would 
have  been  agreeable  to  many  of 
his  French  readers,  as  well  as  to 
the  public  at  large. 

He  alludes  to  a  favourite  idea 
he  entertained  in  his  earlier  years 

of 


ADVERTISEMENT.  V 

of  penetrating  into  the  interior 
parts  of  Africa,  an  objefl:  which 
probably  made  a  part  of  his  ge- 
neral plan;  but  obferves  that 
upon  his  return  from  his  voyage 
towards  the  North  Pole,  having 
performed  all  his  travels  at  his 
own  expence,  without  any  public 
remuneration,  he  did  not  find 
himfelf  either  in  adequate  cir- 
cumftances,  or  youthful  enough 
to  encounter  the  difficulties  of 
fuch  an  expedition.  He  conti- 
nues however  flill  in  the  fame 
fentiments  as  to  its  pra6licability  ; 
and  exprefles  fome  furprize  that 
in  a  nation  of  the  bold  and  en- 
teiprifing  fpirit  of  Great  Britain, 
no  adventurer  equal  to  the  un- 
dertaking fhould  have  offered 
himfelf.  The  reader  may  find 
A  3  fome 


vî  Advertisement. 

fome  hints  on  this  fubje£l  in  his 
voyage  to  the  South-Seas.  And 
he  adds  in  his  letter,  that  it  would 
be  wife  policy  in  a  traveller, 
intending  to  pafs  through  the  in- 
terior parts  of  Africa,  to  fubmit 
to  the  rite  of  circumcifion  before 
his  departure  ;  to  be  particularly 
converfant  in  the  language  and 
manners  of  the  Arabs  ;  and  above 
all  to  be  divefted  of  every  fpe- 
cies  of  prejudice,  regarding  him- 
felf  fimply  as  the  child^  of  na- 
ture detached  from  every  local 
conneftion  whatever.  Thus  pre- 
pared for  his  enterprize,  Mr.  Pages 
would  advife  him  to  fet  out  from 
the  States  of  Tunis,  or  that  neigh- 
bourhood, where  there  are  na- 
tives of  a  mild  chara6ler  and  fond 

of 


Advertisement!         vîi 

of  travelling,  who  would  be  will- 
ing to  accompany  hinié 

Don  Angel  de  Martos,  Gover- 
nor of  Tegas,  Don  Francifco  Hoa- 
refty,  merchant  in  Mexico,  Don 
BafTaras  Oydou,  and  Anoria  Pig- 
noa,  at  Manilla  and  Acapulco, 
M.  Retian  and  the  Garrifon  at 
Batavia,  Mr.  John  Hunter  ,at 
Bombay,  Perez  and  Briancourt 
at  Surat,  and  the  French  Confuls 
at  BafTora  and  Sidon,  are  amongfi: 
the  refpe6lable  connexions  Mr* 
Page's  formed  on  his  travels. 

His  letter  concludes  with  re-? 
quelling  the  tranflator's  correfpon- 
dence,  intimating  at  the  fame  time 
that  Ihould  his  health  enable  him 
to  put  his  papers  in  order^  he  may 

A  4  perhaps 


Viii  ADVERTISEMENT, 

perhaps  be  induced  to  give  fome- 
thing  more  to  the  public. 

Upon  the  whole  it  is  not  to  be 
doubted  that  fuch  as  approve  of 
Mr.  Pages's  travels,  will  be  pleafed 
to  be  informed  that  this  excellent 
man,  equally  diflinguifhed  for  the 
modefty  and  plirity  of  his  mind, 
and  for  his  genius  as  a  voyager,  is 
alive,  and,  though  in  an  infirm 
ftate  of  health,  is  in  a  condition 
to  enjoy  the  fociety  of  his  wife 
and  two  daughters  in  his  pleafant 
valley  of  Baradaire. 

London, 
Nov.  1792. 

I.  I. 


C  o  N- 


CONTENTS. 


VOLUME       III. 

CHAP.     I. 

Tiejign  of  the  Voyage — Departure  from  Brejl 
— experiment 5  made  in  different  Latitudes  on 
Sea-water — The  Lineis  crojfed,  and  Martin 
Vas' s  Iflesfeen  at  a  Dijiance.  Page  i 

C  H  A  P.     IL 

Sight  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope — Obfervations, 
made  with  the  Megameter  more  correct  than 
thofe  taken  by  the  Sextant — Anchorage 
in  Simon  s  Bay — Remarks  on  the  Mode  of 
preferring  Vegetables  for  Sea  Voyages,  and 
Precautions  to  be  obfervedin  their  ufe — Re- 
feBions  on  the  Hottentots ,  and  on  the  Cor- 
refpondence  ejlablijhed  by  Land  between  the 
Inhabitants  of  Guinea  and  thofe  of  the  Lidian 
Sea.  6 

CHAP. 


CONTENTS, 


CHAP.     III. 


l^he  Author  fef 5  out  on  an  inland  'Excurjîon — ^ 
Vijits  Mujfembourg,  Conjîantia,  and  other 
Dutch  Settlements — Is  prevented  from 
"penetrating  into  the  Country  of  the  Hotten- 
tots, by  the  Timidity  of  thofe  who  were  to 
ajjiji  him,  and  the  prudential  reafonings  of  the 
Commander  of  the  Expedition — ExaBions 
to  which  thofe  muji  fubmit  who  vifit  the 
Cape.  -  -  Page  15 

CHAP.     ÎV. 

Arrival  at  the  Cape  of  two  Hottentot  Chiefs 
with  prefents — Details  which  equally  relate 
to  the  independent  Hottentots,  and  thofe  who 
live  in  a  State  of  Vafalage  on  the  Dutch 
Territory — Their  Perfons,  Cujioms,  Lan- 
guage, and  internal  Regulations — Philofo- 
phîcal  Dfquifitions  on  various  Languages — • 
Two  remarkable  Injiances  of  Magnanimity, 

21 


CHAP. 


CONTENTS.  XI 

CHAP.     V. 

Excurjion   to  the  Jjle  of  Magdekine — Detail 

refpeBing  the- Natural  Hijhry  of  the  Sea^ 

Wolf  and  Pe?2gum — Modes  of  catching  the 

former.  -  -  Page  36 

CHAP.     VI. 

Departure  from  the  Cape — Heavy  Gale  of 
Wind,  in  which  the  Veffel  fufiained  much 
Damage — Sight  of  a  Comet — Anchorage 
in  the  North  Weft  Fort  of  the  Ifle  of  France, 
andfiihfequcnt  Departure  from  thence  to  the 
Ifte  of  Bourbon — Reflexions  ivhichfiiggeftsd 
themfehes  to  the  Author  on  the  fuperiour 
Profperity  of  the  latter  Ifle — Error  in  the 
Chart  with  RefpeB  to  the  Diftance  betwixt 
the  Ifle  of  France  and  that  of  Rodrigue, 
afcertained by  Bertoud's  ^Lime-piece,       ^o 

CHAP.     VII. 

The  fuppofcd  Exifleiîce  of  a  Southern  Conti- 
nent— The  Means  to  be  purfued  in  the  pre- 
fent  Voyage  to  afcertain   this   Fact — The 
Barometer  is  not  to  be  trufled  in  cold  Cli- 
mates 


Xii  CONTENTS. 

mates,  and  high  Winds — Further  "Experi- 
ments on  the  ^lantity  of  Salt  contained, 
under  different  Latitudes,  in  Sea  Water. 

Page  56 
CHAP.     VIIL 

Difcovery  of  fever  al  Ijlands  and  a  main  hand 
— 07ie  of  the  Ijlands  is  fxed  upon  as  a 
Rendezvous  for  the  two  Vef'els,  and  is 
therefore  named  the  I/land  of  Re -union — -A 
new  Coaji  is  afo  dif covered,.  n\ 

CHAP.     IX. 

Landing  at  the  Ifand  of  Re-wiion,  and  Pof 
fejjion  taken  of  the  difcovered  Countries--^ 
The  Crews  fufftr  very  feverely  from  the 
Rigour  of  the  Climate — Refleblions  on  the 
Prevalence  of  Storms,  and  particular  Winds 
in  this  Part  of  the  Globe,  -  yj 

CHAP.     X. 

The  Vefels  quit  their  Difcoveries,  and  fail  for 
Madagafcar — Sudden  Tranfition  from  fe~ 
vere  Cold,  to  fine  temperate  Weather — An- 
chorage in  the  Bay  of  Antongil,  where  the 
Sick  are  refrejhed — Defcription  of  the  I/land 

7  .    •  <f 


CONTENTS.  xiii 

of    Madagafcar-^The    Author,     dejîrous 
to  inform  himfef  of  the  natural  Hijiory  of 
the  IJlandy   and  the  Manners  and  Cujtomï 
of  the  Inhabitants,   e^n barks  in  a  Canoe, 
and  lands  near  a  f mall  Village.        Page  85 

CHAP.     XI. 

I'he  Author  vijits  the  Chief  of  the  Village, 
from  whom  he  finds  a  mojl  cordial  reception 
'^-^He  makes  an  Excurfion  to  another  Vil" 
lage,  where  be  meets  with  two  Incidents, 
which  ferve  to  Jhow  the  felfijh  Difpofition 
and  Cunning  of  the  Natives.  g 2 

CHAP.     XII. 

parrel  between  the  Governor  of  the  French 
Colony,  newly  fettled  at  Madagafcar,  and 
one  of  the  Native  Chifs — The  Laws  of 
Ilofpitality  are  inviolably  preferved  by  the 
Author  s  Hofi — A  Village  is  burned,  and 
feveral  of  the  Natives  killed  by  the  Euro-, 
peans  -  -  no 

CHAP.     XIII. 

Diftinâlion  between  the  Aborigines  of  the  I/land 
of  Madagafcar,  and  the  adventitious  Indian 

Settlers 


ÏÎV  CONTENTS. 

Set  tie?' S — Charadlerîjîîcs  and  Drefs  of  the 

former — Hhelr  Hujbandry — T^heîr  Religious 

JVorfiip — Cautions  to  Europeans,  who  fix 

their  Abode  on  this  Ifiand,  Page  1 06 

'CHAP.     XIV. 

^he  Palavers,  or  Conferences,  the  Natives  of 
Madagafcar  hold,  even  on  the  mofi  trivial 
Occafion — 'their  Pojfejfions — Arms — Mode 
(f  internal  Defence — Military  Operations — 
their  Cruelty  in  War,  and  irreconcilable 
Hatred  of  their  Enemies,  wj 

CHAP.     XV. 

Mode  of  giving  and  receiving  Frefcnts  at 
Madagafcar — ^he  Licences  in  which  the 
yow2g  Females  indulge,  arife  from  a  Motive 
of  Avarice — Chajlity  of  the  married  Wo^ 
men — Obfervations  on  the  Language  of 
the  Inhabitants.  -  125 

CHAP.     XVI. 

T!he  two  Vejfels,  having  refitted,  feparate — 
^he  larger  one,    hi  which   the  Author  is, 
fails  for  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope — Anchor- 
age 


CONTENTS.  XV 

age  in  Simon  s  Bay — Further  Obfervattons 
on  the  natural  Hijîory  and  ProduBions  of 
the  Cape — Departure  for  Europe,  and  Ar~ 
rival  in  Breji  Road.  -  Page  1 37 

CHAP.     XVII. 

Confderations  on  the  Diverfity  of  the  Climates, 

ftuated  under    equal  Latitudes^    towards 

the  two  Poles — 'The  probable  Caufes  of  this 

fingular  Difference — T^he  Climates  which 

are  the  leaf   uniform,    with    RefpeSl    to 

Heat  and  Cold,    are  the  mof  formy — Th& 

[      Author  with  a  View  to  many  ufeful  Ob^ 

\      je6ls,   determines  to  penetrate  as  far    as 

poffible  towards    each  Pole,   and  embarks 

accordingly  at  Toulon.  ~  143 

CHAP.     XVIIL 

Voyage  from  Bref  to  the  Downs — Paffage 
thence  to  Calais — 'Journey,  by  the  Canals 
cf  Flanders,  the  Meufe,  and  Holland,  to 
Amfterdam — Comparifon  between  Aufrian 
Flanders  and  Holland,  with  RefeSlions 
en  the  latter  Country,  and  the  Character 
of  it i  Inhabitants^  -  150 

CHAP, 


XVI  CONTENTS. 

CHAP.     XIX. 

T^he  Author  embarks  in  the  Texclfor  Spitz- 
Ijgfg — Paffagc  through  the  German 
Ocean  tg  the  Eajî  of  Norway — New 
'Experiments  on  Sea-ivater — And  Réfec- 
tions on  the  Mode  of  living  of  the  Nor- 
wegians and  Inhabitants  of  Greenland, 

Page  ic^y 

CHAP.     XX. 

The  north  Cape  of  the  great  Continent  is 
p'^Jfcd,  and  Ifands  of  Ice  encountered — ■ 
Thefe  large  Bodies  are  the  probable  Caife 
of  a  great  andfudden  Change  in  the  Wea- 
ther, which  now  becomes  remarkably 
ferene — I^he  curious  Appearances  the  Ice 
exhibits  -,  and  the  Manner  of  navigating 
through  the  little  Channels  it  forms.       162 

CHAP.     XXI. 

The  Vdfjage  towards  the  North  is  completely 
blocked    up   by  the  Ice,  and  another   one 
fought — Manner  of  Anchoring  on  an  I/land 
of  Ice- — Natural  Hijiory  of  the   Sea  Ufii- 
corn  and  Sword-fJh—The  Vefel  is  com- 
pletely 


CONTENTS.  XVll 

pletely  enclofed  by  the  Ice,  which  renders 
the  Navigation  i?7Jpra^icable-^By  the 
Exertions  of  the  Crew  this  Difficulty  is 
obviated,  -  -  170 

CHAP.     XXII. 

Defcription  of  the  Varieties  of  Ice  e?icou?itered 
on  this  Voyage — Reafons  why  the  Britijh 
Ships  which  profeciited  northern  T>ifcove* 
vies  in  iJJ^t  did  not  fucceed  in  pénétra^ 
ting  farther  towards  the  F  ok — The  Au- 
thor conjeâures  that  a  Voyage  to  the 
Pole  itfelf  is  not  i?npoJ/ible,  and  fupports 
his  Hypothefs  by  Reafonings,  177 

CHAP.     XXIII. 

The  Ruffians  are  of  all  others  the  leaf  calcfi^ 
lated  to  profecute  Difcoveries  towards 
the  North  Pole — Sea^Water  is  freed  of  its 
Salt  by  intenfc  Cold — At  particular  Scafonsy 
towards  the  North  Pole,  it  affiwies  a 
blackifh  Hue — Obfervations  made  with 
the  Barometer,  by  which  it  would  appear 
that  Ice  in  large  Bodies  forms  an  Atmof 
phere  of  its  own — Defcription  of  the 
I/land  of  Amferdam^  1 84 

m  CHAP, 


XVm  CONTENTS. 

CHAP.     XXIV. 

Defcnption  of  the  IJland  of  Spifzherg — Huge 
Mo W2  tains  of  Ice  are  fcattered  along  the 
Sea-Coàjîs,  which  are  wafied  by  excefjtve 
torrents — T^he  Vegetation  is  extremely  ra* 
pid — The  ^adrupeds  of  thefe  IJlands  de- 
fcribed,  and  the  periodical  Changes  in  the 
Colour  of  their  Fur  explained.      Page  191 

CHAP.     XXV. 

Defer iption  of  the  Sea  and  amphibious  Birds 
of  the  I/lands  of  Spifzberg — Account  of 
the  Efablijfjments  the  Rufians  have  made 
there,  for  the  colleBing  of  Furs — And 
critical  Refle^lions  on  the  Advantages 
^ivhich  prefent  themfelves  to  that  C/iter- 
frifing  nation.  -  -  1 99 

CHAP.     XXVI. 

The    Navigation    amongfl   the   Ice    becomes 

fo   very    difficulty    that   the   Veffel   is    ifi 

Danger  of  being  crujhed  in  Pieces,  and 

is  extricated  by  almofi  incredible  Fxertions 

— By  the  Procefs  of  freezing,    the  Sea 

Water 


CONTETNS.  XÎX 

Water  is  almoft  entirely  freed  of  its  Salt 
— The  Fa6l  is  ejiablified  that  an  extenjive 
Range  of  Ice  forms  an  Atmofphere  pecu- 
liar to  itf  elf  Page  208 

CHAP.     XXVIL   , 

Defcription  of  the  Whale  Fijhery  on  the 
Wejl  Coafi  with  an  Account  of  the  various 
htftruments  employed,  and  Suggejiions  for 
their  Improvement.  215 

CHAP.     XXVIII. 

Methods  of  Whaling  employed  by  the  North 
Americans,  and  Inhabitaîits  of  Davis* î 
Straits,  in  Seas  unincumbered  by  Ice-—' 
The  different  Proceffes  ufed  in  feparating 
from  the  ufelefs  Parts  of  the  Animal 
the  Blubber  and  Bone— Natural  Hijiory 
of  the  Whale,  -  -  223 

CHAP.     XXIX. 

ConjeBures  refpeBing  the  Food  of  the  Whale 

— Continuation   of  its  Natural  Hijiory — ■ 

the    Errors    which    have   crept    into   the 

Defcription  of  this  Animal — and  a  few 

philofophical    RefeBions    which    naturally 

a  2  occurred 


XX  CONTENTS. 

occurred  to  the  Author,  from  the  Contem^ 
plation  offojiupendous  a  Creature,  Page  232 

CHAP.     XXX. 

"^he  VeJJel,  Jiationed  in  a  fmall  Creek,  is 
nearly  criijloed  in  Pieces  by  large  Bodies 
of  Ice — the  curious  Motions  and  Evolu- 
tions of  thefe  Bodies — with  incredible 
Labour  a  Bafon  is  cut  in  the  Ice  ;  but 
is  not  fo  efeBiial  as  to  prevent  immi- 
nent Danger — the  Author  philofophizes, 
and  recounts  the  various  Perils  he  has 
run.  -  -  242 

CHAP.     XXXI. 

After  encountering  a  Variety  of  Dificulties, 
during  which,  by  the  indefatigable  Exer- 
tions of  the  Crew,  a  new  Bafon  is   cut 

in  the  Ice,  the   Vejfel  is    at  length  freed 
from  her  perilous  Situation,  251 

CHAP.     XXXII. 

RefeSîions     on     tropical  Winds,     and    the 

Calms    which    almoji  confantly    prevail 

near  the  Poles — Tbe  Voyage  is  purfued 

6  amongji 


CONTENTS.  XXI 

amongft  the  Ice — Singular  Difference  be- 
twixt the  Sea  Wolves  of  the  North  and 
South  Seas — The  Traffc  the  Hamburgh^ 
ers  carry  on  to  procure  the  Fat  of  thefe 
Animals,  -  -  Page  258 

CHAP.     XXXIIL 

Paffage  towards  the  Coajl  of  America — The 
Land  of  Gallhamfques  is  pcijfed,  but  is 
not  feeny  on  Account  of  an  impenetrable 
Fog — Referions  on  the  Formation  of  the 
huge  Mountains  of  Ice  met  with  on  the 
American  Coaji.  -  265 

CHAP.     XXXIV. 

Defcription  of  the  CoaJi  of  Gallhamfques—^ 
Importance  of  the  Whale  Fijherjy  and 
the  Encouragement  it  receives  from  dif- 
ferent Nations  of  Europe — The  Fra5lica~ 
bility  of  penetrating  to  the  North  Pole 
itf elf  further  invejiigated,  273 

CHAP.     XXXV. 

The    Seas    of   Siberia    and    Spitzberg    are 
not   the  beji  calcidated  for  a  Paffage  to 

the 


Xxiî  CONTENTS. 

the  North  Pole — 'The  Cotnprejjton  of  the 
Ice  and  every  other  Objîacîe  may  he  fur - 
mounted  in  fuch  an  undertaking — The 
Precautions  in  Point  of  Seafon,  ^c, 
which  Jhould  he  obferved  in  a  fmilar 
"Expedition — The  Vejfel  directs  her  Courfe 
for  Europe,  and  pajfes  by  the  Ifland  of 
John  May  en  i  which  is  defcribed.  Page  282 

CHAP.      XXXVI. 

The  Regions  of  Ice  are  paffed,  and  the  Fa£i 
C07npletely  ejiablijhed,  that  the  Congelation 
cf  Water  forms  a  peculiar  Atmofphere-^ 
Several  new  Species  of  the  Whale  are  feen 
and  defer ibed — Senfble  Difference  between 
the  Northern  and  Southern  Climates  near 
the  Poles — Paffcige  into  the  German  Ocean^ 
and  Arrival  at  Amfler dam.  289 

CHAP.     XXXVII. 

Paffage  from  Rotterdam^  through  the  Britijh 

Channely   to  the  Ifland  of  Guernfey,  and 

from  thence  to   the  IJland  of  Breha,    in 

Lower  Brittany — Arrival  at  Bref,    298 


TABLE  of  the  different  Quantities  of  Salt 

CONTAINED        IN 

SEA-WATER, 
TAKEN  AND  EXAMINED   IN  VARIOUS  CLIMATES, 

FROM 

The  50*^  of  Southern   to  the  82°  of  Northern   Latitude; 

Whence  may  eafily  be  inferred  the  Weight  of  thefe  different  Spe- 
cimens of  Sea  Water. 


SOUTH    LATITUDE. 

In  49* 
46 

40 

25: 

20 

'  50',   ICO  lb.  of  Sea  Water  contained 
12          -          -         -         - 

30 

54- 

24 

In  View  of  Martin  Vas's  M  and 

4  pounds  §  of  Salt, 

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39 4 

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74       -        -        - 
81     in  the  Ice  (*) 


74 41 


(*)  The  Ice,  though  compofed  of  Sea  Water,  is  difcharged  of  Its  Salt 
in  the    proccfs   of  freezing. 

Of  the  Sea  Water,  that  froze  in  the  Air  round  the  Hull  of  the  Ship  under'SaiJ, 
the  Thermom  ter  being  at  30  below  Froft,  100  Pounds  gave  1  Pound  of  Salt. 

The  fame  Ice  preferved  for  eight  Days,  the  Mercury  mean  while  having 
been   conftantly   at  i^i  and  20  below  the  Freezing  Point,  contained  o     i. 

The  fame  Ice,  after  three  Weeks,  the  Thermometer  during  the  laft  ten  Days 
being  from  6"  to  11°  below  Froft,  contained  -  -  -       o     Salt. 


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CS-3   . 
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C 


A 

VOYAGE 

TOWARDS  THE   SOUTH   POLE, 

IN     THE    YEARS     1773—74. 


CHAP.      I. 

Deftgn  of  the  Voyage — Departure  from  Bref 
< — Experiments  made  in  different  Latitudes  on 
Sea-water — The  Line  iscroffed,  and  Martin 
Vas' s  Ifles  feen  at  a  difance. 

IT  being  the  intention  of  government  to 
promote  difcoveries  in  unexplored  regions 
of  the  globe,  orders  were  given  for  the 
equipment  of  a  (hip,  called  the  Rolland,  and 
a  frigate,  to  be  employed  on  an  expedition  to 
the  South  Seas.  Befides  the  political  advan- 
tages that  might  puffibly  refult  from  this 
voyage,  as  it  promifed  to  exhibit  views  of 
nature  undifclofed  to  the  eye,  and  unpervert- 
ed  by  the  manners  of  civilized  nations,  I 
learned  with  peculiar  fatisfadtion  that  it  was 
meant  I  fliould  have  a  command  on  the  pre-. 
Vol.  III.  B  ient 


2         VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 

lent  occafion,  and  accordingly  embarked  looiï 
after,  in  veiled  with  the  charge  of  whatever 
iervice  on  lliore  the  circumftances  of  our  dif- 
€overies  might  require.  We  found  by  our 
inflrudlions  we  flwuld  touch  at  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope;  and  afterwards  at  the  Ifle  of 
France  to  land  fome  officers  belonging  to  the- 
garrifon  there,  and  that  we  were  not  to  pro- 
ceed fouthward  before  ws  had  executed  thefe 
previous  orders. 

We  fet  fail  from  the  harbour  of  Brefb 
on  the  26th  of  March,  1779,  with  a  fair 
wind  at  E.  N.  E.  the  3d  of  April,  at  fix 
o'clock  in  the  evening,  we  came  in  view  ©f 
Salvage  liland,  fituated  north  from  the 
Canary  Ifles.  It  appeared  from  our  obfer- 
vations  of  latitude  and  longitude,  as  well 
as  from  the  bearing  of  Salvage  and  Tencrif 
Illcs,  that  the  laft  is  laid  down  on  the  charts 
about  four  leagues  more  to  the  north  weft 
than  it  really  is.  We  faw  the  ifland  of 
Tenerif  next  day.  And  the  enfuing  night 
pafled  betwixt  it  and  the  Canary  ifles,  and 
continuing  the  fame  courfe  we  kept  in  the 
middle  of  the  channel  between  Cape  de  Verd 
Ifles  and  the  coafl  of  Africa. 

I  had 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.  3 

I  had  been  anxious  to  afcertain  by  com- 
parifon,  whether  fea  water  contains  fait  in 
greater  quantity  under  the  torrid  than  under 
the  other  zones  ;  and  my  experiments  on 
this  fubje(5t,  which  I  proceed  to  mention, 
ferve  to  ihow,  contrarily  to  what  I  expeâred, 
that  fca  water  is  impregnated  with  fait  in 
lefs  quantity  within  than  without  the  tro- 
pics. 

On  the  1 2th,  being  in  lo*'.  14".  north 
latitude  and  22^.  49".  weft  longitude  from 
the  meridian  of  Paris,  a  hundred  pounds  of 
fea-water,  taken  at  the  depth  of  ten  fa- 
thoms, and  weighed  in  water  fcales,  gave 
three  pounds  ^  of  fait. 

On  the  1 6th,  repeating  the  fame  experi- 
ments in  latitude  4^.  22''.  north,  and  longi- 
tude 18°.  44 '^  weft,  an  equal  quantity  of 
water  contained  only  three  pounds  of  fait. 

On  the  2  2d  of  the  fame  month,  in  latitude 
l^.  16''.  fouth,  and  longitude  21  ^.  w^eft,  the 
fame  quantity  of  water  gave  a  ftmilar  quantity 
of  fait  as  on  the  i6th. 

The  wind,  hitherto  from  the  north  eaft, 
gradually  leflened  as  we  approached  the  line, 
which  we  croiTed  in  2  o  ^ .  30  '''.  weft  longitude; 

B  2  when 


4         VOYAGE  TO  THE   SOUTH  POLE. 

when  fhifting  to  the  eaft,  after  intervals  of 
calm,  accompanied  with  a  few  drops  of  rain, 
it  fet  in  from  the  fouth  eaft.  Itfrefliened  as 
we  gained  a  morefoutherly  latitude,  and  the 
temperature  of  the  air  feemed  in  general 
more  harfh  and  irregular  than  in  parallel 
latitudes  in  the  northern  hemifphere;  my 
experience  on  this  voyage  afforded  full  and 
circumflantial  evidence  in  confirmation  of 
this  fad. 

We  difcovered  a  confiderable  difference 
between  the  fhip's  reckoning  and  our  obfer- 
vations,  the  latter  placing  us  conftantly  more 
to  the  fouth  fouth  weft  than  the  former. 

On  the  I  ft  of  May,  we  faw  numbers  of 
white  GoualletteSy  and  a  fpecies  of  fea  fowl 
named  Frigate,  fo  called  from  their  flight, 
which  is  thought  to  have  fome  refemblance 
to  the  fwift  failing  of  that  fpecies  of  veflel. 
They  appeared  again  next  day,  when  we 
faw  like  wife  feveral  fca  dogs,  and  at  fix 
o'clock  in  the  evening,  the  man  at  the 
maft-head,  called  out  that  he  faw  a  fmall 
ifland;  but  as  the  night  foon  came  on,  we 
wei-e  unable  to  afcertain  the  truth  of  his  re- 
port.    On  the  return  of  day,  the  weather 

being 


VOYAGE   TO  THE   SOUTH   POLE.  5 

"being  hazy,  we  remained  in  the  fame  ftatc 
of  fufpenfe;   fevcral  of  the  crew,  however, 
affirmed  that  they  had  feen  it  fo  diftinilly, 
as  to  have  no  doubt  of  its  exiflence.     Wc 
fteered  weft  fouth  weft,  in  order  to  afcertain 
the  reality  of  our  difcovery;    but  the  atmo- 
fohere  becoming  very  obfcure^we  were  obliged 
to  defift  and  refumeour  proper  courfe.  It  is 
not  improbable,  however,  that  the  land,  faid 
to  have  been  feen  on  this  occaiion,    is  one 
of  Martin  Vas's  liles;   fince  although  our 
reckoned  longitude  was  only  25°.  23"^^  yet 
according  to  our  obfervations  it  was    30^. 
30".  a  pofition  not  very  wide  of  that  men- 
tioned by  Mon.  D'Apres  who  places  them 
in  32^  weft  longitude. 

When  in  view  of  the  above  land,  a  hun- 
dred pounds  of  fea- water  contained  3I pounds 
of  fait;  and  fix  days  after,  being  in  latitude 
25^.54'',  and  longitude  21^.  48",  I  found 
that  the  fame  quantity  of  water  gave  within 
a  fradlion  of  4  pounds.  In  latitude  24*^.  the 
trade  winds  had  conliderably  leiTened,  and 
as  the  wind  ftiifted  to  N.  W.  we  availed 
Gurfelves  of  the  variation,  and  directed  our 
courfe  towards  the  eaft.  In  the  latitude  of 
B  3  about 


6         VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 

about  26^,  we  entered  the  region  of  variable 
winds,  but  as  they  blew  from  the  weil  we 
kept  E.  S.  E. 


CHAP.      II. 

Sight  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope — Obfervations 
made  with  the  Megameter  more  correSt  than 
thofe  taken  with  the  Sextant — Anchorage 
in  Simon  s  Bay — Remarks  on  the  Mode  of 
preferving  Vegetables  for  Sea  Voyages  y  and 
Precautions  to  be  obferved  in  their  ufe — Re^ 
jleâions  on  the  Hottentots,  and  on  the  Cor- 
refpondence  ejiablijhed  by  Land  between  the 
Inhabitants  of  Guinea  and  thofe  of  the  Indian 
Sea, 

ON  the  24th  of  May  we  imagined  our- 
felves  to  be  at  no  great  diftance  from 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope;  our  obferved  lati- 
tude was  34^.  20".  and  longitude  13^.  20". 
eaftj  next  day  frefh  obfervations  placed  us 
in  longitude  14^.  35''.  whilfl  the  iliip's  rec- 
koning carried  us  as  far  as   17^.  23'';  but 

we 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.    J 

we  could  have  no  doubt  that  tlie  laft  calcu- 
îation  was  erroneous,  and  that,  therefore,  we 
were  by  no  means  fo  far  to  the  eail.  Next 
day,  at  fun  rifing,  we  faw  the  Table  of  the 
Cape,  and  I  found  from  the  bearing  of  the 
land,  that  our  longitude,  as  obferved  by  the 
megameter,  erred  only  about  two  leagues^ 
whilft  the  error  of  the  (liip's  reckoning  was 
no  lefs  than  fifty  one  leagues  eaft.  Our  ob- 
fervations  with  the  megameter  were  much 
more  accurate  than  thofe  taken  with  the 
fextant.  The  firft  inûrument,  however, 
takes  in  only  fmall  diftances,  and  it  is  almofl: 
impoffible  to  ufe  it  in  a  high  fea.  It  is 
much  to  be  wifhed  that  a  more  convenient 
method  of  employing  it  could  be  invented; 
in  that  cafe  it  would  be  greatly  fuperior  to 
every  infiniment  for  nautical  obfervation  I 
am  acquainted  with.  We  doubled  the  Cape 
©n  the  27th,  and  in  the  evening  came  to  an- 
chorinFalfe  bay,  in  forty- five  fathoms  water, 
with  a  bottom  of  fand  and  iliells.  Next 
day  we  entered  Simon's  bay  on  a  tack,  and 
moored  in  thirteen  fathoms,  with  a  bottom 
of  fine  fand. 

A$  fliips  are  expofed  in  the  bay  of  the 
B  4  Cape 


8        VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 

Cape  to  coniiderable  danger  from  the  north 
and  north  weft  winds,  they  withdraw  at 
the  commencement  of  this  feafon  to  a  creek 
in  Simon's  bay,  on  the  weft  fide  of  Falfe 
bay.  Here  the  lofty  mountains  of  the  Cape 
fhelter  them  from  the  high  winds  which 
blow  in  the  weftern  quarter,  varying  from 
the  north  all  the  way  to  the  fouth  point. 
On  the  other  hand,  this  bay  being  open  to 
the  fouth  eaft  wind,  which  fometimes  in 
fummer  fets  in  with  great  force,  fhipping 
give  it  a  preference,  in  its  turn,  to  the  bay 
at  the  Cape.  This  laft  is  named  with  more 
propriety  Table  bay,  as  it  is  fituated  at  the 
foot  of  that  mountain  ten  leagues  diftant 
from  the  fouthern  extremity  of  the  Cape. 

A  conliderable  part  of  the  fl:iip's  com- 
pany having  been  attacked  with  putrid  and 
worm  fevers,  we  took  the  firft  opportunity 
of  landing  them.  We  laid  in  fome  months' 
provisions  to  replace  fuch  as  had  been  fpoiled 
or  confumed^  for  a  great  proportion  of  our 
vegetables  were  now  found  in  a  ftate  of  pu- 
trefadlion,  a  circumftance  probably  owing 
to  the  dampnefs  of  the  fhip,  which  was  new 
and  had  never  before  been  out  of  the  harbour. 

Tq 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.  Ç 

To  prevent  the  fcurvy,  a  difeafe  fo  incident 
to  feafaring  people  in  a  long  voyage,  the 
commander  had  retrenched  a  part  of  the 
men's  fait  provilions,  fubftitiitingve  jetables 
in  their  place.  This  diet  prefented  at  firil 
view  great  advantages;  but  in  order  to  ren- 
der it  really  beneficial  to  feamen,  too  much 
caution  cannot  be  obferved  by  the  contractor, 
that  the  vegetables,  deflined  for  a  long  voy- 
age, fhould  not  bs  old,  and  that  they  ihould 
be  dried  in  the  oven,  only  (o  far  as  will  de- 
ftroy  the  eggs  as  well  as  the  infeds  them- 
felves,  and  prevent  the  vegetables  from  heat- 
ing or  fermenting  in  hot  and  moifl  climates. 
Care  fliould  likewife  be  taken  by  the  com- 
manding officer,  that  the  change  of  diet  be 
gradual,  and  that  the  allowance  of  the  men 
put  upon  this  regiruen  be  augmented,  as  a 
vegetable  diet  does  not  yield  an  equal 
degree  of  nourishment  with  animal  food; 
and  indeed  I  think  it  not  improbable,  that 
the  fevers  v/hich  attacked  the  crew  on  our 
palTage  to  the  Cape,  might  have  been  occa- 
fioned  by  their  abrupt  traniition  from  the 
rich  juices   of  an  animal  to  the  meagre  ali- 


jnent  of  vegetable  food. 


The 


10       VOYAGE   TO   THE   SOUTH   POLE. 

The  banks  of  Falfe  bay  prefent  naked  and 
fandy  hills  with  little  or  no  foil,  except  what 
is  found  in  cavities  formed  by  the  impetuous 
defcent  of  the  torrents.  But  Dutch  induf- 
try  and  perfeverance  have  rendered  the  little 
fettlement  of  Simon's  bay  equal  to  the 
exigencies  of  fuch  veiTels  as  put  into  it  for 
provifions.  As  there  is  a  frequent  and  eafy 
communication  between  this  place  and  the 
city  of  the  Cape,  Htuated  at  the  diftance  of 
fevcn  leagues,  I  was  able  to  gratify  my  cu- 
riofity  by  an  excurfion  to  a  town  to  which 
the  vifits  of.  all  European  nations,  trading  to 
India,  have  given  confequence  and  celebrity. 

At  the  Cape  I  expe<fledlikewife  to  obtain 
proper  information  refpecfling  the  route  and 
beft  mode  of  travelling  to  the  country  of  the 
Savage,  or  to  fpeak  more  properly,  the  inde- 
pendent tribes  of  Hottentots,  who,  con- 
ftantly  adverfe  to  a  foreign  yoke,  live  to  this 
day  in  the  quiet  and  innocent  enjoyments 
of  paftoral  life.  To  inquire  into  the  man- 
ners of  men,  in  a  fimple  and  unrefined  flate, 
was  an  obje(ft  always  uppermoft  in  my 
thoughts,  and  had  entered  as  a  principle  into 
the  plan  of  my  travels  round  the  world  i 

an4 


VOYAGE   TO  THE   SOUTH  POLE,       II 

and  though  I  fhould  not  have  it  in  my  power 
to  acquire  a  thorough  knowledge  of  the 
manners  and  cuiloms  of  the  Hottentots» 
yet  I  would  not  fuffer  the  prefent  opportu* 
nity  to  efcape  without  knowing  fomething  of 
the  real  charadter  of  thofe  tribes.  Befides, 
as  the  Hottentots  maintain  an  intercourie 
with  the  negroes  who  make  extenllve  pere- 
grinations into  the  inland  country,  I  hoped  to 
derive  from  themcurious  information  refpedt- 
ing  the  interior  parts  of  Africa,  which  I  am 
now  of  opinion  might  be  traverfed  to  Tunis 
with  much  lefs  difficulty  than  has  been  com- 
monly imagined.  Slaves  have  been  purchafed 
by  our  traders,  on  the  coaft  of  Guinea,  who 
fay  they  are  from  a  country  bordering  on  a 
fea  towards  the  rifing  of  the  fun;  whence 
we  may  infer,  that  a  communication  exifts 
by  land  between  the  nations  of  Guinea  and 
the  tribes  which  live  on  the  confines  of  the 
Indian  ocean.  In  this  idea  I  was  afterwards 
confirmed  by  a  converfation  I  had  with 
fome  negroes,  purchafed  by  our  fhips  on  the 
Mofambic  coaft,  who,  though  fpeaking  a 
difl^erent  language,  can  make  themfelves 
underftood  without  the  aid  of  an  interpreter, 
3  by 


12       VOYAGE   TO  THE   SOUTH   POLE. 

by  negroes  from  the  coaft  of  Congo  and 
Angola.  The-  nations  of  tlie  Mofambic 
coail  have  been  conquered  at  different  times 
by  the  Arabs,  while  other  Arabian  tribes, 
named  Malays,  arrive  once  a  year  in  arms 
for  the  purpofe  of  traffic,  as  well  as  to  colledt 
a  tribute  from  Dahomer,  chief  of  that  part 
of  the  coaft  of  Judda,  Vvhere  we  have  efla- 
bliflied  a  French  fadory.  I  had  occauon 
to  converfe  likewife  with  fome  Soufous  ne- 
groes, who  had  been  bought  between  cape 
Formofa  and  cape  Verd,  who  fpokeand  wrote 
the  Arabic,  and  were  followers  of  Mahomet. 
It  is  well  known  that  the  natives  of  Senegal 
carry  on  trade  with,  and  pay  a  kind  of  tribute 
to  the  Arabs;  and  it  is  equally  certain  that 
the  natives  on  the  coaft  of  Guinea  crofs  the 
continent  from  their  own  country  to  Tunis 
and  Tripoli.  The  fuperintendant  of  our 
fadory  at  Judda  informed  me,  that  the 
Arabs,  who  trade  with  the  chief  of  that 
diflrid,  are  in  part  Cherifs  of  the  family  of 
Mahomet,  wear  a  green  turban,  and  their 
articles  of  merchandize,  conliiling  of  dif- 
ferent fluffs  made  of  filk  and  cotton,  are 
exadly  funilar  to  what  we  meet  with  among 

the 


VOYAGE  TO  THE   SOUTH   POLE.       I3 

the  Mahometans  who  border  on  the  Medi- 
terranean.    He  fays,  that  when  they  fain  te, 
they  lay  their  hands  not  upon  their  breafts 
like  the  Mahometans  of  Europe,    but  upon 
their  forehead,  likethofe  of  India.  Circum- 
cifion  is  a  rite  prevalent  over  the  whole  of 
Africa,  from  the  Mofambic  to  the  coaft  of 
Barbary.     It  appears  therefore  from  this  de- 
tail,  that  there  is  a  much  greater  intercourfe 
between  the  nations  refiding  in  the  interior 
parts  of  Africa  than   we  have  been  apt  to 
imagine;    that  they  indeed  maintain  a  very 
general  correfpondence  and  traffic  ;    and  that 
the  Arabian  tribes,   trading  with  the  coall: 
of  Africa  or   the  Indian  ocean,    muft  have 
fome  connexion  with  thofe  Arabs  who  carry 
on  a  traffic  along  the  coaft  of  the  Mediterra- 
nean fea.     From  the  manner  of  fainting  in 
ufe  among  the  Arabs  who  come  to  Judda, 
I  infer  likewife  that  there  is  a  good  deal  of 
intercourfe  between  them  and  the  Arabs  on 
the  Indian  fea;    and  certain  cuftoms  I  re- 
marked among  the  negroes  from  the  coaft 
of   Angola,   induced     me   to    come   to    a 
fimilar  conclu fion  with  refpeâ:  to  them.     A 

game 


14      VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 

game*  of  calculation  in  common  to  the 
nations  of  Africa,  as  well  as  the  whole  con- 
tinent of  Ada,  gives  much  countenance  to 
my  opinion  on  the  fubjed:.  I  learned  from 
the  fame  perfon,  I  mean  our  fuperintendant 
at  Judda,  that  the  Hyppopotamus  is  fome- 
times  feen  on  the  mar/hy  borders  of  the 
river;  that  he  makes  a  noife  fomewhat  re- 
fembling  the  neighing  of  a  horfe,  but  with- 
out the  fmalleft  degree  of  likenefs  to  a  horfe; 
that  he  is  rather  like  the  ox,  though  with 
the  fhort  hair  of  the  buftaloe.  He  mentioned 
likewife  the  jackal],  which  in  that  country 
has  a  beautiful  fkin,  fpotted  like  the  leopard, 
and  is  nearly  of  the  fize  of  the  tiger,  but 
much  his  inferior  in  ftrength,  claws,  and 
natural  ferocity. 

*  This  game  is  played  with  little  balls  arranged  in  two  line» 
on  different  points,  and  confifts  in  removing  and  replacing  them 
according  to  certain  rules,  which  I  do  not  comprehend.  I  have 
met  with  it  among  the  Chinefe,  Malays,  Indians,  Turks, 
Malgaches,  and  Negroes, 


CHAP 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.       l^ 

CHAP.     IIL 

Tèe  Author  fets  out  on  an  inland  Excurjion-—^ 
Vifits  Mujfemhourg,  Conjiantia,  and  other 
Dutch  Settlements — Is  prevented  from 
penetrating  i?ito  the  Country  of  the  Hotten- 
tots, by  the  Timidity  of  thofe  who  were  t9 
ajjijlhim,  and  the  prudential  reafoning  of  the 
Commander  of  the  "Expedition — Ex  allions 
to  which  thofe  mift  fubmit  who  vift  tin 
Cape, 

I  Set  out  on  my  excurfion  the  3d  of  June, 
and  after  following  the  fea  fhore  for 
three  leagues,  arrived  at  an  houfe  named 
MuiTembourg,  which  belongs  to  the  Dutch, 
and  ferves  as  a  place  of  rendezvous  for  a 
part  of  the  Company's  cattle.  Some  hun- 
dred yards  further  on,  I  came  in  view  oï  a 
lake,  ftretchingto  the  north  weft;  it  waihes 
the  borders  of  a  plain  determined  by  a  fweep 
of  the  mountains,  which  rife  in  Table  moun- 
tain towards  the  north.  Croling  the  lake, 
and  continuing  my  journey  over  the  plain, 
I  difcovered  at  half  a  league's  diftance  the 
manlion  and  diftrid  of  Conftantia,  fo  fa- 
mous 


l6      VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH   POLE. 

mous  for  its  wine.  Beyond  it  are  feen  ha- 
bitations on  a  foil  embelliflied  with  a  few 
plantations;  but  the  ground  in  general  ap- 
pears to  be  dry  and  fandy,  and  little  fufcep- 
tible  of  improvement.  The  country  is  in 
general  bleak,  and  far  from  being  agreeable, 
though  here  and  there  the  traveller  meets 
with  a  bufh  of  fweet  broom,  and  the  flowery 
lilac.  A  little  higher,  however,  the  foil  be- 
comes ftony  and  of  a  deeper  mould,  with 
feveral  clumps  of  the  lilver  tree,  fo  named 
from  the  whitifli  and  velvet  furface  of  its 
leaves.  The  filvcr  tree  grows  ftraight,  and, 
as  the  contour  of  the  branches  forms  a 
pretty  regular  cone,  prefents  an  agreeable 
appearance.  I  met  with  no  other  natural 
wood  in  this  country,  which  would  come 
under  the  defcription  of  timber.  I  was 
told,  however,  that  in  fuch  low  grounds  as 
are  iheltered  from  the  harlh  and  inclement 
winds,  there  are  fome  very  large  trees,  and 
in  the  interior  parts  of  the  country  feveral 
confiderable  fo  refis. 

The  country,  as  I  proceeded,  being  inter- 
fperfed  with  vineyards  and  corn  fields, 
began  to  aiTume  an  air  of  greater  fertility. 

I  now 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.       I7 

I  now  came  in  view  of  a  vaft  plain,  adorned 
with  handfome  houfes,  and  along  the  road 
were  many  beautiful  country  feats,  which 
in  fome  places  were  fhaded  with  a  double 
row  of  fine  trees.  The  gardens  in  general 
have  a  pleafant  effed:  ;  but  fuch  as  are  con- 
tiguous to  the  refidence  of  the  governor, 
with  a  wood  in  a  quincuncial  form,  make 
one  believe  one's  felf  in  the  vicinity  of  a 
confiderable  European  town.  The  acorns, 
from  which  fprung  thofe  charming  trees, 
were  imported  from  Holland;  but  one  fees 
with  a  kind  of  regret,  that  the  great  diflance 
of  the  colony  from  the  African  forefts,  ruins 
the  beft  of  their  own  timber,  which  is  cut 
down  and  employed  as  fire-wood  by  the 
Company's  fervants. 

I  came  in  view  of  Table  bay,  and  the 
Ifle  of  Rob  ben  ;  and  as  foon  as  I  pafied 
Table  mountain,  obferved  the  Cape  town, 
at  which,  after  a  journey  of  feven  leagues, 
I  arrived  in  the  evening.  The  town  has  no 
advantage  from  walls,  but  is  defended  by 
a  caftle,  which  commands  the  fea  and  the 
adjacent  country.  Tovv'ards  the  eafl:  and 
weft  it  has  two  batteries,   whicli  overlook 

Vol.  III.  C  the 


1 8       VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH-  POLE. "- 

the  road,  with  a  work  particularly  intended- 
to  cover  the  fhore  ;  and  this  fortification  in. 
the  quarter  of  the  town  refis  on  the  fide  of 
the  mountain. 

The  population  of  the  Cape  is  very  con- 
fiderable  ',     the    fortunes    of    individuals,, 
though  not   overgrown,    are   above  medi- 
ocrity ',    and  the  people  in  general  are  welL 
fupplied  with    all   the   comforts    of   life. 
Here   the    traveller  meets   with    agreeable 
manners,   good  fcnfe,  and  a   great  deal  of 
frugal  induftry  ;    the  complexion  of  the  in- 
habitants, particularly  the  Creoles,  is  fair;, 
the  town    is    handfome,    and   the  climate 
happy.     Such   portion  of  the  foil  as  has 
fallen  to  the  fliare  of  the  Company,  is  fer- 
tile and  well  cultivated^     The  Dutch  have, 
feveral  villages  at  a  diflance  in  the  country, 
the  moft  conliderable  of  which  I  am  told  is> 
Stellembofc  ;   and  the  moil  remote  fettlers, 
dired:ly  up  the  country,  are  about  feventy 
leagues  from  the  Cape.   Such  as  refide  on  the 
coail,    whether   of  the  Atlantic  or  Indiaa 
ocean,  have  extended  their  pofleffions  to  a. 
much  greater  diflance  from  the  capital  ;  in  fa 
much,  that  were  the  houfes  fet  down  within. 

a  mo- 


VOYAGE  TO  THE   SOUTH  POLE.'       I9 

à  moderate  diftance,  the  extent  of  Dutch 
territory  would  form  a  very  ftrong  colony. 
As  the  planter,  however,  has  been  permitted 
to  appropriate  to  himfelf  the  beft  foil  and 
pafture  wherever  he  could  find  it,  popula- 
tion in  the  country  is  thin,  and  the  houfes 
f^r  removed  from  each  other. 

From  the  fertility  of  the  foil,  arid  nume- 
rous herds  of  cattle,  the  Dutch  at  the 
Cape,  as  well  as  the  planters  in  the  remote 
parts  of  the  fettlement,  live  at  a  very  mo- 
derate expence;  an  advantage,  however,  but 
little  felt  by  Europeans,  government  having 
arrogated  to  itfelf  a  monopoly,  not  only  of 
fupplying  fhips  with  ftores,  but  even  daily 
fubfiftence  to  Grangers.  .  Provilions  are  fold 
at  a  very  high  price;  and  hence  the  profits 
of  purveyance  conftitute  a  conliderable  part 
of  the  colonial  revenue.  Still,  however, 
it  is  a  matter  of  agreeable  furprife  to  find  at 
the  extreme  point  of  the  African  continent, 
plenty  of  every  thing  neceflary  or  convenient 
for  a  long  voyage.  This  colony  is  in  con- 
dition to  export  corn  to  Batavia,  as  well 
as  to  the  mother  country. 

I  abandoned,    though  with  great  relue- 
C  2  tance. 


20       VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 

tance,  my  intended  travels  to  the  uncivilized 
Hottentots  :    the  perfons  to  whom    I  ap- 
plied for  fueh  previous  information  as  was 
neceifary  to  my  entering  on  the  expedition 
feemed    to  look   through    a    magnifier  at 
every  obftacle  in    my  way  ;    the   ordinary 
method    of  confidering    undertakings  that 
deviate  from  the  beaten  track  of  common 
experience.      Befides,    the  captain    of  the 
fliip    having   followed   me    to    the    Cape, 
urged   many  reafons  to  diffuade    me  from 
the  execution  of  my  plan — reafons,  never- 
thelefs,   which  went  upon  the  fuppofition 
of  fuch  a  flrange  and  improbable  coinci-» 
dence   of  circumftances  as  might  militate 
againft   any   human  projedt  whatever.      I 
chofe,  therefore,  to  facrifice  to  my  duty  all 
that  interefling  knowledge  which  I  have  no 
doubt   might   have  been  obtained  on  this 
occafion,  without   the  fmallefl  inconveni- 
ence   to    the   main  objed;  of  our  voyage. 
Firom  this  moment  every  flattering  profpedt 
with  which  I  had  fet  out  on  this  fervice 
in  a  great  meafure  vanished;  and  I  faw  with 
fincere  concern    how  little  I  could  count 
on  thofe  inteileâiual  attainments  I  hoped  to 
6       -  have 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.        21 

have  derived  from  my  havfng  a  fliare  in  the 
expedition.  The  mere  failor,  attached  by 
the  habits  of  his  profeffion  to  ihipboard, 
fatisiies  himfelf  with  a  glance  of  thofe  ob- 
jects, which  none  but  a  perfon  on  fhore  can 
investigate  and  afcertain  in  their  true  mean- 
ing and  importance. 


CHAP.      IV.    . 


Arrival  at  the  Cape  of  tivo  Hottentot  Chiefs 
with  prefents — Details  which  equally  relate 
to  the  ijidependent  Hoite72totSy  and  thofe  who 
live  in  a  fate  of  Vaffalage  on  the  Dutch 
Territory— Their  Ferfons^  Ciifloms,  Lan- 
guage,  and  internal  Regulations — Philofo^ 
phical  Difquiftions  on  various  Languages — 
Two  remarkable  Infances  of  Magnanimity, 

SOME  days  after  my  arrival,  I  faw  at  the 
Cape  two  old  men,  perfons  of  eminence 
amongft  thofe  of  the  Hottentot  nation,  who 
live  on  the  territory  and  under  the  jurifdic- 
tion  of  the  colony.  They  had  brought 
with  them  fome  cows  as  a  prefent  to  the 
C  3  Dutch 


22       VOYAGE   TO  THE  SOUTH   POLE. 

Dutch,  and  received,  in  return,  mock 
pearls,  garnets,  and  other  little  articles  of 
traffick.  They  declined  lodging  in  the 
town,  but  chofe,  according  to  the  manners 
of  their  country,  to  pitch  tents  and  dwell 
in  its  vicinity.  The  tribes  in  the  interior 
country,  whom  the  Dutch  name  CafFres 
or  Bofchifmans,  have  a  rooted  abhorrence 
to  the  planters,  and  look  down,  with  great 
contempt,  on  fuch  of  their  own  people,  as 
have  fubmitted  to  the  yoke  of  the  com- 
pany. Thefe  independent  tribes  make  fre- 
quent irruptions  into  the  heart  of  the 
colony,  and  after  committing  depredations 
on  the  perfons  and  property  of  both,  with- 
draw, with  their  booty,  to  the  woods  and 
fortrelTes  of  their  difhant  mountains. 


The  following  particulars  concerning 
ibis  race  of  men,  are  equally  appHcable  to 
the  free  and  enilavcd  Hottentots  ;  and  are 
fadls  which  I  believe,  having  either  feeii 
them  with  my  ov^ncyes,  or  obtained  them 
ffcm  the  report  of  reputable  créoles  who  re- 
fide  in  the  interior  parts  of  the  country. 

The  Hottentot  is    of  a  middle  flature, 

well 


■VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.       2^ 

weW  proportioned,  adlive,  and  pofTejfTes  great 
agility  in  running  ;  the  upper  part  of  his 
face  is  broad  with  high  cheek  bones,  but 
the  lower  part  is  flender  and  draws  to  a  point 
at  the  chin  ;  he  has  the  nofe  and  lips  of  the 
negroe  ;  a  large  prominent  eye  with  a  con- 
fiderable  degree  of  vivacity  ;  his  hair  is  lefs 
crifped  than  tTie  hair  of  the  negroe,  and 
approaches  nearer  to  that  of  the  natives  of 
Madagafcar  ;  he  is  at  much  pains  to  anoint 
it  with  greafe,  and  as  he  wears  a  bonnet 
which  covers  the  whole  forehead,  it  gra- 
dually loofes  its  frizzled  texture  and  becomes 
intirely  ilraight.  It  is  far  from  being  thick 
—it  rather  has  the  appearance  of  having  been 
pulled  out  by  fmall  tufts.  His  complexion 
is  naturally  brown,  but,  from  its  being 
conftantly  expofed  to  the  fun,  and  anointed 
with  the  fat  of  his  cattle,  gradually  deepens 
into  a  duiky  black. 

Theïe  fadls  give  countenance  to  the  ob- 
fervations  I  made  on  this  fubjed:  in  the 
Defarts  of  Arabia  ;  I  mean  that  heat  of 
climate,  co-operating  with  the  influence  of 
a  dry  parched  foil,  may  account  for  the 
complexion  of  the  negroe,  as  well  as  the 
C  4  crifped 


24       VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH   POLE. 

crifped  and  woolly  nature  of  his  hair.     The 
Hottentots,  whom  it  would  be  very  im- 
proper to  call  negroes,  are,  however,   fur- 
rounded  by  them  on  all  fides,  and,  I  have 
no  doubt,  are  of  the  fame  extraction.     The 
high   antiquity   of   their  iirft:    emigration, 
and  their  long  reddence  on  a  more  humid 
foil,  and  under  a  milder  and  more  tem^ 
perate  climate  than  their  own,  have  pro- 
duced  in   my   opinion,    the   circumftances 
which  diftinguiih  their  prefent  appearance 
from  that   of  their   negroe  anceftry.     The 
Hottentot   wraps   himfelf  in  a   large  fkin 
and  depofits  his   privates   in  a   fmall   bag 
adorned  with  a  piece  of  ftrong  leather  of  an 
oval  form.     This  cafe  or  codpiece  is  like- 
wife  embelliflied  with  fmall  brafs  nails,  and 
a  border  of  little  rings  of  the  fame  metal, 
which,  owing  to  the  motion  of  his  body, 
produce  a  tinkling  found  like  that  of  the 
{heep-bell.     They  have  the  art  of  extrad- 
ing  the  metal  from  their  mountains,  as  well 
as  of  manufa  élu  ring  it  for  different  ufes. 
The  breaft  and  neck  are  adorned  with  mock 
pearls,    garnets,   or   fmall  pieces    of  bone. 
Their  chaplets   and  necklaces   are  of  the 

fame 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE,       25 

fame  materials,  and  you  frequently  meet 
them  with  the  inteftines  of  their  cattle  tied 
round  their  ancles.  Strings  of  garnets,  hang- 
ing down  on  the  hinder  part  of  the  neck, 
are  attached  to  the  hair  on  the  crown  of  the 
head. 

The  heads  of  families  receive  much  ho^ 
nour  and  confideration  from  the  commu- 
nity, while  the  youth  are  not  even  allowed 
accefs  to  the  national  council.  Previoufly 
to  their  being  admitted  to  this  privilege, 
they  muft  be  declared  men,  and  have  en- 
tered into  a  ftate  of  wedlock — honours 
which  are  conferred  at  the  fame  time,  and 
by  the  fame  ceremony.  When  a  young 
man  has  attained  the  age  and  other  qualities 
which  fit  him  for  accompanying  his  coun- 
trymen to  the  war,  to  the  chace  of  wild 
animals,  and,  in  ftiort,  for  difcharging  the 
duties  of  a  huftand  and  parent,  he  makes 
choice  of  a  wife,  and  convokes  an  aflembly 
of  his  tribe.  The  bride  and  bridegroom  are 
conduced  thither  by  their  refpedive  rela- 
tions, and  receive  an  harangue  on  the  reci- 
procal duties  of  the  married  ftate;  after 
which  a  Hottentot,  appointed  to  the  office, 

binds 


2.6      VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 

binds  a  piece  of  inteftine  about   the  arms 
of  the  bridegroom,  and  urines   acrofs  his 
fhoulders  ;    v/hen  the  candidate  for  public 
honours  being  declared  invefted  with  all  the 
rights  and   prerogatives  of  a  married  man, 
may  henceforth  affifl:  in  council,  as  well  as 
in  the  purfuits  of  the  fields.     The  women 
are  chafte  in  their  morals,  and  live  in  a  ftate 
of  great   fubordination  to   their   hufbands. 
A  man  may  have  a  plurality  of  wives,   but 
marriage  is  never  permitted  between  bro- 
thers and  fiflers.     I  was  afTured,  by  perfons 
of  whofe  information  and  veracity   I  could 
not   doubt,   that  the   apron  of  the  female 
Hottentot   is  a  mere   fidion  of  travellers. 
From  every  thing  I  could  learn  refpedting 
the  manners  of  the   Hottentots,   from  the 
cuftom  of  urining  on  the   flioulders  in  the 
nuptial   ceremony,    from   their   anxiety  to 
adorn  the  parts  of  fex  in  the  male,  as  well 
as  from  the   very   abjeâ:  condition    of  the 
woman,  we  feem   warranted   to  infer  that 
they  have  a  peculiar  veneration  for  age,  fex, 
and  all  the  qualities  of  manhood — qualities 
ç)î  eiiential  moment  in  the  defence  and  per- 
petuity  of  the  fpecies. 

The 


V<5YAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.       2/ 

The  Hottentots,  denominated  Caffres, 
.defpifing  agriculture  and  tillage,  give 
their  whole  time  to  their  herds  and 
flocks.  Their  oxen  ferve  for  riding  as  well 
as  for  beafls  of  burthen.  They  live  not  in 
tents  like  the  Arabs,  but  in  huts  made  of 
bull-rufhes,  or  the  fkins  of  animals  3  and 
as  the  country  abounds  in  pafturage,  they 
are  lefs  addicted  to  a  wandering  and  deful* 
tory  manner  of  life  than  either  the  Arabs 
or  the  Tartars.  Though  prone  to  indo- 
lence, they  are  fwift  of  foot,  dexterous  and 
aâ:ive  in  their  perfons.  In  thechaceof  the 
lion  and  tiger,  as  well  as  in  their  wars  with 
the  Dutch  and  Dutch  Hottentots,  (the  laft 
of  whom  they  defpife,)  they  give  eminent 
,  proofs  of  courage  and  intrepidity.  Their 
arms  confift  of  the  bow  and  arrov/,  the 
dagger,  afpecies  of  javelin,  and  a  fhort  maify 
club  pointed  at  each  extremity  with  brafs, 
which  they  have  the  art  of  throwing  at 
the  enemy  with  particular  addrefs.  I  have 
feen  a  fimilar  weapon  among  the  Egyptians, 
and  the  inhabitants  of  Palefline,  and  it  is 
by  no  means  improbable  that  the  ufe  of  the 
plub  may  have  gradually  migrated  hither 
5  from 


;28     VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POL^.v 

from  Egypt  or  Abyfîinia,  They  take  much 
pleafure  in  dancing,  and  the  found  of  mu- 
Ileal  infti-uments  5  and  fome  of  them,  in 
their  leifure  hours,  touch  a  fpecies  of  guitar. 
Their  nrfl  appearance  is  not  prepoffeffing, 
but  after  a  Httle  acquaintance  one  difcovers 
^  countenapce,  that  from  its  variety,  and  the 
vivacity  of  the  eyes,  feems  to  indicate  fome- 
thing  lively  and  intelligent.  I  have  ken 
them  play  a  game  of  combination  with  art 
addrefs  which  would  import  any  thing  ra- 
ther than  that  grofs  ftupidity  vulgarly  attri- 
buted to  the  character  of  the  Hottentot, 
If  they,  nearly  in  the  fimpleil  fbate  of  hu- 
man life,  find  amufement  in  what  gives 
exercife  to  the  powers  of  the  underiland- 
ing,  we  cannot,  without  being  chargeable 
with  ignorance  orinjuflice,  impute  to  them 
a  turn  of  mind  peculiarly  ftupid  and  infen- 
iible.  Though  I  do  not  think  their  na- 
tural temper  fad  or  melancholy,  it  feems  to 
be  of  a  ferions  cail. 

The  language  of  the  Hottentots  is  the 
moft  fingular  I  have  ever  met  with.  Be- 
iides  innumerable  gutturals,  it  contains 
many  founds  form.ed  by  preffing  the  tongue 

in 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE-       Ctg 

in  a  bent  flate  againfl  the  palate.     Thefe 
founds  have  feme  refemblance  to  that  uttered 
by  a  glutton  or  drunkard  in  low  life,   wheu 
he  meets  with  a  difli  or  bottle  of  wine  par- 
ticularly fuited  to   his   liking.      It  would 
perhaps  be  difficult  to  render  what  I  mean 
better  underflood  than  by  the  word  c/op  or 
c/ep  ;   a  found  which  feems  to  precede  the 
main    expremon,    and  is  repeated  once  or 
twice,  according  as  the  objeift  to  which  it 
is  applied  is  more  or  lefs  important.      They 
fay,  for  example,   when  one  Hottentot  ad- 
drefies    another  by  his  name,  c/op  ouaguays^ 
I  thought,  however,   I  could  perceive  that 
this  initial  flap  of  the  tongue  was  only  in- 
troductory to  a  primitive  or  original  word. 
By    a   primitive   word,    I   mean     a    word 
which   is  neither  derived  from,  nor  com- 
pounded of  any  other,  as  eau,  terre,  bois, 
ci/eau  ;    whereas  habitation,   boijjon,    aSîioji, 
are  derived  from  habiter,  boire,  agir.     This 
uncouth  found,  I  obferved,  preceded  likewife 
their  numerals,    i,  2,  3,  4,  &c.     The   fa- 
vages  of  the  province  of  Tegas,   in  Ame- 
rica,   have  a  mode  of  expreffion  formed  by 
a  fnap  of  the  angers,  in  the  way  in  which 

we 


30      VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE^ 

we  call  upon  a  dog.    They  have  other  founds- 
formed  by  preffing  the  tongue  again  ft  the' 
palate,   and  analagoas   to  that  made  by  a 
woman  when  flie  colledis  her  poultry  ;    but 
even  this  bears  little  refembiance  to  that  of 
the  Hottentot.     The  natives  of  the  Philip- 
pine  ifles   employ    a    certain   prefTure    of 
the  tongue  to  give   founds  expreffive   of  a 
negative.     In  my  travels  round  the  world  i 
had  occafion   to  make  fome  refle(ftions  on 
this  fubjed:  -,  at  prefent  I  fhall  only  mention 
fuch  eaftern  languages  as  I  confider  original 
or  underived  :    of  this    defcription,    in  my 
opinion,  are  thofe  of  the  Tartars,  Arabs, 
Indians,  and  Chinefe  ^   in  thefe  there  is  one 
remarkable  difference,  I  mean  their    refpec- 
tive  facility  or  difficulty  of  enunciation  -,  and 
it  is  in  fome  meafure  from  the  very  fmooth 
inflexions  of  voice  in   one,    and    the  very 
guttural  articulations  of  another,  that  I  in- 
fer their  originality.     My  ear  could  diftin-^ 
guifh  a  confiderabie  analogy  between    the 
languages  of  the   two  peninfulas   of  India 
and  thofe  of  the  numberlefs  iflands   which 
feparate  the  fouth  from  the  Indian  fea  ;  in 
So  much,  that  I  find  more  difparity  between 

the 


VOYAGE   TO  THE   SOUTH  POLE.       3Î 

the  French  and  Englifli,  though  every  one 
knows  they  are  both  derived  from  the  Ger- 
man and  Latin,   than  between  any  two  of 
thofe  languages.     A   fimilarity  is   likewife 
obferved  between  the  jargon  of  Otaheite  and 
that  of  New  Zeland.     But  the  extenfioa 
of  population  and  intercourfe  from  the  Chi-^ 
nefe  Archipelago  to  the  iflands  of  Otaheite 
and  New  Zeland,   (fuppofmg  this  to  have 
been  the  procefs,)   muft  have  been  effected 
by  many  intermediate  fleps,  and  would  have 
required  a  much  longer  period  of  time  than 
was  neceffary  to  unite  in  the  fame  manner 
the  moil  remote  parts  of  the  European  con- 
tinent, even  including  the  coafls  of  Green- 
land and  North  America.     For  this  reafon  I 
am  inclined  to  think  that  the  iflands  of  the 
fouth  fea  v;ere  peopled  entirely  from  the  pe- 
ninfula  beyond  the  Ganges,  and  probably 
not  very  long  fince.     From  the  high  an- 
tiquity of  its  population,   we  may   fuppofe 
that   many  revolutions,    fometimes   in  one 
direâiion,  and  fometimes  in  another,  muft 
have  occurred,  by  which  men  being  often 
reduced  from  conllderable  civilization  almoin 
to  a  ftate   of  barbarifm,  the  languages  of 

the 


32       VOYAGÉ  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 

the  different  nations  would  be  greatly  de- 
praved and  confounded,  before  they  im- 
parted population  to  the  iflands  of  the  fouth 
fea. 

Here  the  reader  will  give  me  leave  to  re- 
late two  inftances  of  magnanimity,  tothefirft 
of  which  I  fliould  have  found  it  difficult  to 
give  credit,  had  it  not  happened  at  this  place 
the  evening  before  my  arrival  ;  and  if,  befides 
the  publick  notoriety  of  the  fa(5b,  I  had 
not  been  an  eye  witnefs  of  thofe  vehement 
emotions  of  fympathy,  blended  with  admi- 
ration, which  it  had  juftly  excited  in  the 
mind  of  every  individual  at  the  Cape. 

A  violent  gale  of  wind  fetting  in  from 
the  north  north  weft,  the  barometer  which 
had  ftood  at  28*^  and  a  fradion,  during  the 
preceding  fine  weather,  fuddenly  chopped 
to  2y^,  and  three  Dutch  velTels  in  the  road, 
dragged  their  anchors.  One  loaded  with 
grain  for  Holland,  was  forced  upon  the 
rocks,  and  bulged  -,  and  while  the  greater 
part  of  the  crew  fell  an  immediate  facriiice 
to  the  waves,  the  remainder  were  feen  from 
the  fhore  ftruggling  for  their  lives  by  cling- 
ing to  different  pieces  of  the  wreck.     The 

fea 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.        3^ 

Tea  ran  dreadfully  high>  and  broke  over  the 
failors  with  fuch  amazing  fury,  that  nd  boat 
whatever  would  venture  off  to  their  affifl- 
ance.     Meanwhile   a  planter,  confiderably 
advanced  in  life,  and  long  a  member  of  the 
colony,   had  come  from  his  farm  on  horfe- 
back  to  be  a  fpedator  of  the  fhipwreck» 
His.  heart  was  melted  at  the  fight   of  the 
unhappy  feamen  ;    but   knowing   the  bold 
and   enterprifing  fpîrit    of   his  horfe,   and 
his    particular   excellence   as    a  fwimmer, 
he  inftantly  determined  to  make  a  defperate 
effort  for  their  deliverance  i     He  alighted> 
and  blevv   a   little   brandy  into  his  horfe's 
noftrils,  when  again  feating  himfelf  firm  in 
the  fdddle,    hê  inffantly    rufhed  into   the 
midft  of  the  breakers.     At  firft  both  difap- 
peared  j  but  it  was  not   long  before  they 
floated  oil  the  furface>  andfwamto  the  wreck; 
when  taking  with  him  two  men,  each  of 
whom  held  by  one  of  his  boots,  he  brought 
them  fafe  on  fhore*     This  perilous  experi- 
ment he  repeated  no  feldomer   than   fevea 
times,  and  faved  fourteen  lives  to  the  pub- 
lick  ;  but  on  his  return  the  eighth   time. 
Vol.  ill.  D  his 


24         VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLF. 

his  horffe  being  much  fatigued,  and  meetings 
a  moft  formidable  wave,  he  lofl:  his  bakncey 
and  was  overwhelmed  in  a  moment.  The 
horfe  fwam  ikfe  to  land,  b»t  his  gallant  rider,, 
alas!  was  no  more.  I  am  doubtful  if  in 
the  hiftory  of  mankind  we  have  a  more 
brilliant  example  of  heroifm  exerted-  in-  the 
cauie  of  human  it}^ 

The  fécond  ihftance  of  extraordinary  for- 
titude I  am  to  mention,  is'  not  equal  to  the 
firfl  ;  Hill,  however,  it  may  be  coupled  with 
it  in  our  narrative,  fince  both  have,  a  ten- 
dency to  {how  how  na?>i3TalIy  the.  mind  is 
difpofed  to  imbibe  great  and  intrepid  fenti- 
ments,  when  removed  from  the-  pernicious 
influence  of  luxury,  and  placed  in  tho,  eafé 
and  freedom  of  rural  life.  There  a  man 
acquires  the  habits  of  labour  and  induftry, 
whether  it  be  to  maintain  himfelf  and  fa- 
mily in  a  decent  mediocrity  of  fortune,  or 
to  acquire  it  by  the  conqueû:  of  $hofe  diffi- 
culties which  a  rude  and  uncultivated  foil 
oppofes  to  his  fuccefs^  liwas  in  this  view 
I  obferved  that  our  brave  cavalier,  though 
an  European  by  birth,  had  been  long  a  mem- 
ber of  the  colony — But  I  return  to  my  ilory. 

A  Creoles. 


VOYAGE  TO  THÉ  SOUTH  POLE.         ^S 

A  Creole,  who  refided  inland  at  a  confider- 
able  diftance  from  the  Cape,   was  wounded 
in  the  hand,  and   a  gangrene   had  enfued, 
from  negligence  and  inattention.     At  length 
he  became  convinced  that  nothing  but  im- 
mediate  amputation   could  fave   his    life  : 
but  refleâ:ing  he  was  at  too  great  a  diftanCe 
from  town  to  expeâ:  the  aid  of  a  furgeon, 
he  determined  to  perform  the  operation  him- 
felf.     It  was  a  procefs  neither  of  much  time 
nor  expence    to   the  créole  ;     for  after  pre- 
paring fuch  herbs  as  he  meant  to  apply  as  a 
remedy  to  the  flump,    he  cut  off  his  hand 
with  one  ftroke  of  a  hatchet,  and  was  in- 
debted to  no  other  affiftance  than  that  of  a 
negro,   who  held  his  arm  fleady  during  the 
operation  ^  and  the  fimple  precepts  of  nature 
foon  effeded   his   cure.     I  faw  afterwards 
the   patient  in  good  health  at  Simon's  bay  ; 
he  was  attended  by  his  Haves,  and  a  number 
of  waggons,  containing  butter  and  other  ar-* 
tides,  the  produce  of  his  farm. 


CHAP, 


5^         yOYAGZ  TO  THE  SOXTTH  POLSTr 

C    H    A    P.     V, 

'Excitrjlon  to  the  IJle  of  Magdekhie — Detail 
refpeSiing  the  Natural  Hijhry  of  the  Sea^ 
Wo f  and  Penguin. — Modes  of  catching  the- 
former. 

AFTER  informing  myfèlf  in  the  htÇk 
manner  I  could,  concerning  the  town 
and  harbour  at  the  Cipc,  I  returned  to  my 
iîiip  \m  Simon's  bay.  In  an  interval  of  pub- 
lick  duty^  I  ma>de  an  excurfion  to  the  Ilie  o.C 
Mdgdaleine,.  fituated  at  tlie  bottom  of  Falfe 
bay,  about  tl^ree  leagues  from  the  fhip.  I 
knew  it  w:as  a:  great  refort  of  penguins  and 
fea-wslves,  numbers-  of  which  I  had  feen,  in 
my  way  to£fhoff  Romanfclip,  arockwhicli 
forms  two  paiîes  at  the  m©uth  of  Simon's- 
bay.  I  efteemed  it  neither  a  diûgi-ecable- 
nor  unprofitable  paftime  to  confider  thoie 
amphibious  animals  alive,  the  laft  of  whicb 
appears  to  form  the:  intermediate  link  be- 
t\i'een  the  fifli  and  q.aadruped  ;  as  the  firlï 
feeiïis  to  conned:^  though  in  a  more  imper-^ 
fedt  manner^  the  feathered  race  with,  the 
amphibious  cjuadruped. 

5  -^s 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POXE.        37 

As  the  waves  break  with  confiderablc  vi- 
olence on  the  confines  of  Magdaleine  ifle,  I 
was  capefiil  to  make  choice  of  a  calm  day; 
and  on  my  way  thither  I  killed  fome  Mou- 
tons de  Cape  and  manches  Je  velours,  or 
velvet  ileeves..  On  our  approaching  the 
land,  I  happened  to  take  /hot  at  a  manche 
de  velour^  which  alarmed  a  herd  of  fea- 
wolves  as  they  lay  baiking  in  the  fun,  who 
inftantly  got  up  to  their  feat,  and  raifed 
fuch  cries  as  in  number  and  variety  I  could 
only  compare  to  the  bleating  of  a  flock  of 
iheep,  when  the  old  and  young  make  mu- 
tual refponfes  to  each  other.  The  age  and 
iize  of  the  animal  might  be  diiiinguiihed 
by  the  degree  of  tone  and  energy  of  his 
voice.  Our  landing  was  fomewhat  abrupt, 
ithe  noife  ceafed,  and  numbers  qî  theni 
plunged  into  the  fea  ;  but  as  they  hovered 
near  to  the  rû>cks  aconlidcrable  time,  I  had 
:an  opportunity  to  bear  diftindtly  the  hoarfe 
cries  of  fome  of  the  largeft,  wfeidi  have 
a  great  refemblance  to  that  of  a  young  calf  ^ 
but  in  this  lituation  the  yoiing  ones  were 
entirely  mute.  After  liftening  with  much 
atiention,  I  conceived  that  their  cries  were 
D  3  defcriptive 


38        VOYAGE   TO   THE   SoUTH   POLE. 

defcriptive  of  anxiety  of  ftate  of  mind,  or  of 
a  gentle  tranfition  from  one  fpecies  of  emo-r 
tion  to  another,  but  which  did  not  indicate 
a  fentiment  of  fear.  We  were  provided 
with  fmall  bludgeons,  with  which  we 
flunned  them  by  ftriking  them  on  the 
mouth.  We  killed  fourteen,  and  took  four 
young  ones  alive.  This  timorous  animal, 
impelled  by  the  irnpulfe  of  nature,  made 
conftantly  towards  the  water  by  the  fliorteft 
way,  even  fhoukl  it  lie  between  our  legs, 
but  never  attempted  to  bite  except  when  ir- 
ritated by  an  interception  of  his  flight.  Had 
they  been  capable  of  maintaining  their  ground 
with  the  obftinacy  of  fome  animals,  wq 
might  have  found  it  difficult  to  make  good 
^  retreat  ;  for  they  are  remarkably  flrong, 
and  were  in  fuch  numbers  as  almoft  to  cover 
the  foil.  This  herd  could  not  confift  of 
fewer  than  three  thoufand.  The  largeit 
were  about  four  feet  long  by  two  and  a  half 
round  -,  but  the  average  flze  was  two  and  a 
half  or  three  feet  in  length,  and  one  and  a 
half  round  the  breail.  The  fea-wolf  ap- 
pears to  be  extremely  dull  in,  the  fenfe  of 
hearing  ^  for  as  they  fwam  along  the  fliore 

at 


TOYAGE  TO  THE   SOUTH  POLE.         39 

■at  the  fliort  diftance  of  three  paces,  I  called  to 
one  of  the  party  to  obferve  their  movements, 
but  the  found  of  my  voice  did  not  moleil: 
-them  in  the  leafl-.  If,  however,  I  made  the 
flighteft  motion  or  geftare,  they  inftantly 
dived  and  fled  out  to  Tea.  H^nce  it  fhouid 
feem,  that  the  «ye  in  this  animal  is  a  much 
more  delicate  organ  of  fenfation  than  the 
•ear.  The  eye  is  not  deftitute  of  beauty, 
■though  it  is  frequently  heavy  and  clouded. 

With  refped  to  tlie  objeâ:  of  that  in- 
ûinâ:  in  their  nature  which  feems  con- 
ftantly  to  urge  them  to  land,  I  confefs  my- 
felf  at  a  lofs  -,  but  I  obferved,  that  as  foon 
as  we  had  withdrawn  to  the  fmallefl;  dif- 
-tance  from  the  fhore,  they  began  as  before 
to  climb  the  rocks,  and  to  fcramble  towards 
a  dry  fituation  ;  an  impulfe  which  they 
obeyed  with  fo  little  difcretion,  that  we  took 
fome  of  them  by  cutting  off  their  retreat  to 
the  water.  On  a  dry  and  level  fpot  of 
ground  tiieir  motion  is  too  flow  to  enable 
them  to  elude  a  purfuit  ;  but  if  they  happen 
to  reach  a  fmooth  rock  inclining  towards 
the  fea,   they  efcape  with  great  facility. 

Some  we  took  alive  by  bhndfoiding  them 
D  4  with 


4©        VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 

with  a  coarfe  fack,  which  ferved  to  defend 
US  againfl  their  teeth  -,  others  we  feized  by 
the  hinder  legs,  dragging  them  backwards 
on  their  bellies  -,  for  as  they  are  very  large 
and  corpulent,  it  is  with  the  utmoft  diffi- 
culty they  can  turn  round  to  avenge  them- 
felves  on  an  enemy.  The  fame  propenfity, 
whatever  it  niay  mean,  which  carries  them 
with  eagernefs  to  tlie  fliore,  determines 
them  to  keep  hovering  near  the  rocks  after 
they  have  got  into  the  water.  In  this  fitu- 
ation  they  amufed  us  with  rnany  curious 
evolutions  ;  fometimes  they  vault  high  above 
thefurfaçe,  orhpld  themfelves  upright,  with 
mouth,  head,  and  neck  raifed  above  the 
water  ;  fometimes  they  take  a  rotatory  mo- 
tion like  awheel  ;  andfompiin:je6  they  fpring 
about  a  foot  high  and  dive  immediately, 
extending  the  fore  feet  along  the  belly,  and 
llretchjng  put  the  hinder  ones  in  the  manncF^ 
of  a  fan  or  fiih's  tail. 

I  imagined  at  firil  that  they  werç  im- 
pelled to  land,  as  well  as  to  thefe  move- 
ments, from  the  neceffity  of  refpiring  ;  but, 
having  obferved  them,  on  fome  occasions, 
f  çniair^  a  long  time  under  water,  Î  abandoned 

this 


IÇ-OYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.  41 

this  hypothefis,  I  am,  perfuaded,  however, 
that  water  is  an  element  lefs  agreeable  to 
the  fea-wolf  than  land  ;  an  idea  which 
was  fuggefled  by  an  extreme  defire  they 
difcover  of  indulging  in  a  fort  of  fenfual 
fleep  or  ftupor.  I  was  afterwards  much 
confirmed  in  this  opinion  by  an  attentive 
obfervation  of  fome  which  I  kept  alive,  as  I 
{hall  mention  foon,  Upon  this  fuppofition, 
however,  what  an  apparent  contradiction  in 
the  œconomy  of  nafure,  as  it  relates  to  this 
animal  !  a  being,  which,  with  a  ftrong 
prédilection  for  land,  is  forced  by  hunger  to 
proceed  far  out  to  fea,  and  find  his  food  at 
the  bottom  of  the  ocean. 

When  in  the  fun,  the  fea-wolf  either  fits 
upright  or  lies  on  his  belly,  flretching  out 
his  fnout  between  his  legs  like  a  dog  ;  if  he 
would  get  into  motion,  he  prefixes  himfelf 
forward  by  protruding  his  fore  and  hinder 
parts  alternately  in  |:he  manner  of  a  catter- 

fjillar.  He  then  raiies  his  head  and  nofc 
ike  a  pointer  when  hp  fmells  his  game; 
jind  as  he  proceeds,  has  fçme  refemblanceto 
a  terrier  which  rifes  and  walks  on  his  hinder 
legs.      This   effort,    I   fbould   fjppofe,    is 

painful 


42       VOYAGE  TO   THE   SOUTH   POLE. 

painful  to  the  animal;  it  feems,  however, 
necelTarily  to  refult,  partly  from  the  fhortnefs 
of  his  legs,  which  are  fcarcely  vifible  above 
the  feet,  and  partly  from  the  extreme  cor- 
pulency and  repletion  of  his  body.  The  hair 
of  the  cub  is  of  a  dufky  black,  the  fnout  is 
not  fo  conical  as  it  is  ufually  reprefcnted,  nor 
is  the  higher  part  of  the  nofe  equally  de- 
prefTed  ;  the  teeth  are  fmall,  the  muftachoes 
of  a  confiderable  length,  and  the  expreflion 
of  the  face  mild  and  inofFenfive.  The  ears 
are  narrow,  clofe,  and  fliort,  being  only 
one  inch  and  a  half  in  length,  a  circumftance 
which  gives  him  much  the  appearance  of  a 
cropped  dog.  His  neck  is  thick,  full,  and 
fo  even  with  his  head,  that  the  hand  glides 
fmot)thly  over  it  ;  and  hence  it  is  very  diffi- 
cult to  faften  the  fingers  on  this  part  of  the 
animal.  His  breaft  is  large,  but  gradually 
diminifhes  towards  the  oppofite  extremity, 
which  terminate^  in  a  very  fmall  tail  of  only 
two  inches  in  length,  and  one  eighth  of  an 
inch  in  diameter. 

He  has  a  fort  of  web  foot  formed  of  a 
coarfe  carilaginous  fubflance,  refembling 
the  fins  of  the  fea-calf.     The  exterior  part 

of 


-VOYAGE   TO  THE   SOUTH   POLE.  43 

y){  this  membrane  contains  five  toes,  which 
^re  never  completely  extended  ;  the  inncr^. 
inoft  is  the  moft  diftinftly  marked,  the 
next  two  are  lefs  fo,  and  the  two  exterior 
ones  are  fcarcely  perceptible.  The  nails  ap- 
pear like  fcales  above  the  membrane  which 
contains  the  toes,  but  do  not  extend  to  its 
extremity  ;  they  lie  under  the  hair,  and  are  fo 
very  little  obferved  that  they  hardly  deferve 
to  be  mentioned. 

The  hinder  feet  have  alfo  five  toes  ;  thç 
jhree  middle  ones  have  their  points  and  nails 
like  thofe  of  a  dog,  very  diflinguidiable  ;  the 
remaining  two  are  neither  fo  large,  nor  are 
the  joints  equally  prominent.  On  thefe  the 
nail  is  extremely  fmall,  with  the  appearance 
of  having  been  worn  thin:  the  five  nails  arc 
placed  in  the  middle  of  the  foot,  which  un- 
der the  three  interior  toes  confifls  of  a  Hen- 
der  bony  cartilage  ;  the  other  two  being  of 
nearly  the  fame  thicknefs  in  thejr  whole 
length,  are  larger  in  their  extremities  than 
the  three  middle  ones.  The  toes  of  the 
hinder  feet  are  all  connecfled  by  a  membrane 
like  that  of  a  goofe.  There  feems  to  be 
Something  v/himlical  in  the  pofition  of  the 

nails. 


44        VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 

nails,  as  they  can  be  of  no  manner  of  ufe  td 
the  animal  but  to  fcratch,  nor  can  they 
even  render  him  this  fervice  without  bending 
the  foot  in  a  painful  pofture. 

I  kept  two  of  thefe  animals  alive  for  the 
fpace  of  eight  days  ;  at  firil  I  immerfed 
them  in  a  tub  of  fea  water,  fix  inches  deep, 
and  five  feet  long  ;  but  as  they  feemed  ex- 
tremely reftlefs,  and  made  frequent  attempts 
to  efcape  from  their  confinement,  I  drew 
©ff  the  water.  After  repeating  the  experi- 
ment twice,  and  finding  them  ftill  unhappy 
and  impatient,  I  at  laft  allowed  them  to 
remain  dry.  When  they  found  themfelves 
difincumbered  of  the  water,  they  began  to 
fhake  their  ears,  and  fcratch  and  clean  them- 
felves like  a  dog.  They  kept  clofe  to  one 
another,  and  fometimes  fneezed  like  the 
above  aninial. 

In  fine  weather  I  permitted  them  to  amufe 
themfelves  in  their  own  way.  They  never 
difcovered  an  inclination  to  efcape,  but  in 
viev/  of  the  fea;  on  all  other  occafions 
they  either  fî:rctched  out  their  limbs  and 
bafked  in  the  fun,  oï  kept  tumbling  about, 

rubbing 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.         45 

rubbing  their  fnout  againfl  the  ground,  or 
fliaking  and  fcratching  themfelves  with  their 
teeth  and  nails.  They  feemed  to  receive 
pleafure  from  being  fcratdhed  by  the  fea- 
men,  with  whom  they  contra ded  a  degree 
of  familiarity,  in  fo  much,  that  they  ufed 
to  crawl  round  them,  fmelling  the  lower 
part  of  their  trowfers.  They  difcovered  a 
preference  for  clothes  of  a  blue  colour, 
which  I  am  therefore  inclined  to  believe 
is  the  colour  of  their  natural  food.  They 
ihowed  a  confiant  propenfity  to  afcend, 
and  got  eafily  on  the  quarter  deck,  probably 
in  order  to  have  the  benefit  of  the  fun  in  a 
high  fituation.  Their  mutual  fcratchings 
and  carefles  indicate  a  fondnefs  for  each 
other  ;  they  were  no  fooner  feparated  than 
they  JDined  company  again  with  all  poffiblc 
difpatch  ;  and  we  had  only  to  carry  off 
one  to  be  inllantly  followed  by  the  other, 
an  experiment  which  afforded  daily  diver* 
fion  to  the  failors. 

After  Jiving  fome  time  in  this  flate  of  un- 
natural confinement,  their  eyes  began  to 
gliflen,  probably  from  a  heat  of  blood,  as 
they  refulèd  all  manner  of  food  :    I  offered 

them 


46         VOYAGE    TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE/ 

them  fifh  and  bread  moiflened  with  watei^/ 
which  they  fmelled  to,  but  would  not  eat. 
I  endeavoured  to  make  them  fwallow  flour 
mixed  with  water  a  Httle  brackifh,  with  no 
better  fuccefs,    for  it  did  not  remain  a  mo-^ 
ment  on  their  flomach.     On  the  feventh 
day  one  of  them  was  feized  with  a  violent 
palpitation  and  fobbing,  like  the  hiccups  ; 
he  foamed   at   the   mouth,    difcharging  a 
greenifli  fubftance,  and  gnawed  the  fides  of 
his  tub  ;    fymptoms  which  feemed  to  indi-' 
cate  approaching  madnefs,   and  he  was  im- 
mediately thrown   overboard.     Next  day  I 
let  his  companion  loofe  in  a  piece  of  mea- 
dow ground,   obferving  from  my  conceal- 
ment whether  he  fed  upon  grafs  ;  but  after 
watching  a  long  time,  finding  he  would  not 
eat,    I  drove  him  likewife  into  the  fea!     He 
kept  fwimming,    however,    clofe    to    the 
boat,  probably  miftaking  it  for  a  rock,  and 
I  had  fome  difficulty  to  drive  him  out  to 
fea.     At  firft  he  was  weak,  and  fwam  with 
little  fpirit,  but  in  a  little  time  he  dived, 
and  after  remaining  about  a  minute  under 
water,   returned  to  the  furface  much   more 
alert  and  vigorous.     He  had  probably  re- 

freflied 


VOYAGE   TO  THE   SOUTH   POLE.  47 

frefhed  hlmfclf  at  the  bottom  with  his  natu- 
ral food.  Pie  now  took  a  final  leave,  and 
fwam  towards  fome  rocks  at  a  conliderable 
diftance. 

The  lile  of  Magdaleine  is  likewife  fre- 
quented by  a  fpecies  of  penguins  narped 
Manchots  -,  the  higher  grounds  were  almoft 
covered  with  their  nefts,  containing  innu- 
merable eggs  and  young  birds.  ^  One  of  the 
nefls  prefented  an  affecftionate  mother,  who 
ehofe  to  forfeit  her  liberty  rather  than  aban- 
don her  young.  A  neft  contained  generally 
two  eggs  or  two  chicks,  feldom  three,  and 
never  a  fingle  one.  The  young  ones  are 
laid  head  and  tail,  in  the  manner  of  pigeons, 
and  one  of  them  appears  about  a  fourth 
larger  than  the  other,  whence  I  fuppofed 
them,  male  and  female.  Their  down  is 
remarkably  long,  with  the  thick  curled  ap- 
pearance of  wool.  We  caught  no  fewer 
than  forty  old  ones  :  they  walk  flow,  are 
perpetually  difpofed  to  crouch  down  upon 
the  rocks,  and  therefore  eafily  taken  ;  the 
wings  are  long,  and  furniflied  with  fmall 
fhort  feathers  like  hair  ;  their  pinions  ferve 
them  occafionally  inflead  of  fore  feet,   and 

then 


48         VOYAGE  TO  THE  iOUTH  POLE. 

then  they  can  get  on  much  fafter  ;  but  they 
are  feen  for  the  greateft  part  perched  on  their 
legs  with  the  head  credt,  and  the  wings 
drooping  ;  an  attitude  which  gives  the  ani- 
mal a  great  appearance  of  ftupidity.  His 
plumage  is  of  a  dark  grey^  with  a  flight 
fliade  of  blue  ;  the  belly  is  white,  but  up- 
wards are  two  black  oblong  bands,  one  at 
the  neck  and  the  other  at  the  ftomaeh  r  the 
head  is  black,  and  prefents  a  dull  fleepy 
eye.  They  are  not  larger  than  the  common 
duck,  but  the  bill  is  fhorter,  fmaller,  more 
pointed  than  it  is  in  that  animal,  and  is 
ufed  in  his  defence  with  great  dexterity  and 
effeâ:.  T'hey  dive  and  fvvim  with  much 
elegance  -,  and  I  have  feen  them  turn  and 
purfue  theii"  prey  with  furprifmg  alacrity* 
On  land  they  are  peculiarly  aukward  and 
embarrafled. 

I  kept  t\^o  of  thefe  animals  alive  for 
thirteen  days  ;  when  I  found  them,  they 
were  unfledge  d  and  very  young,  I  ufed  to 
feed  them  on  .moiftened  bread,  and  their  di- 
geftion  fcem{;d  good,  but  having  placed 
them  in  water. ,  one  died  foon  after,  and  the 
other  furvived  him  only  three  days.     They 

had 


VOYAGE  TO   THE  SOUTH  POLE.       49 

had  none  of  the  gentle  and  inoffenfive  cha- 
raâ:er  of  the  fea-wolf  ^  for  as  foon  as  we 
approached  their  cage  they  became  hoflile, 
and  ready  to  attack  us  with  violence. 

The  natural  hiftorian,  I  prefume,  will 
not  find  the  above  detail  too  minute,  fince  it 
ferves  to  confirm  the  knowledge  already  ac- 
quired of  the  character  and  ftruclure  of  thefe 
animals  ;  and  this  confideration  will,  I  hope 
induce  the  reader  who  may  be  lefs  intereiled 
in  this  particular  fcience  to  excufe  the  length 
of  the  detail. 


Vol.  III.  E  CHAP. 


^O      VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE» 

CHAP.      VI. 

Departure  from  the  Cape — Heavy  Gale  of 
Wind,  in  which  the  VeJJel  fujiained  much 
Damage' — Sight  of  a  Comet — Anchorage 
in  the  North  Wejl  Fort  of  the  IJle  of  France  ^ 
and fubfeqiient  Departure  from  thence  to  the 
IJle  of  Bourbon — RefeBions  which  fuggefed 
ihemfehes  to  the  Authour  on  the  fuperiour 
Frofperity  of  the  latter  IJle — Error  in  the 
Chart  with  RefpeB  to  the  Difance  betwixt 
the  I/le  of  France  and  that  of  Rodrigue, 
ajcertained  by  Bertoud's  I'itne -piece, 

WE  now  prepared  for  our  departure. 
The  frigate  had  failed  the  27th  of 
June,  having  orders  to  proceed  to  Madagaf- 
car,  and,  therefore,  reimbarking  fifteen  men 
who  were  ftill  indifpofed  with  the  fcurvy, 
we  got  under  weigh  the  1 1  th  of  July. 
The  breeze  being  from  the  north  ~  north 
well,  we  went  right  before  the  wind.  At 
four  o'clock,  however,  P.  M.  it  freshened, 
and  blew  with  fuch  violence,  that  we  were 
obliged  to  take  in  the  top  gallant  fails.    The 

weather 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.        5I 

weather  became  worfe,  infomuch,  that  by 
half  paft  {even  it  had  afTumed  all  the  appear- 
ance of  a  ftorm  ;  the  darknefs  which  over- 
fpread  the  heavens,  rendered  vilible  by  fome 
flafhes  of  lightening,  accompanied  with 
rain,  began  to  prefent  an  awful  fcene.  The 
waves,  by  their  colliiion,  produced  a  gleam 
by  eledlricity  which  enabled  us  to  fee  pretty 
clearly  around  us,  In  the  mean  time  we 
were  running  at  the  rate  of  fourteen  knots 
an  hour  :  about  eight,  the  main-top-fail 
was  carried  away,  and  the  yard  fhivered  in 
pieces;  the  fore-fail  and  fore-top- fail  foon 
followed  ;  in  a  moment  the  wind  ihifted  to 
the  fouth  weft,  and  blew  with  fuch  fury, 
that  the  iliip  lay  water-logged  in  the  gi^ateft 
diftrefs.  I  can  conceive  no  fituation  at  fea 
more  critical  than  ours  ;  forbad  one  of  thofe 
immenfe  waves  now  broke  upon  us  to  wind- 
ward on  the  ftarboard  quarter,  we  muft  in 
all  probability  have  funk.  Happily  the 
fhip  righted,  but  the  tempefl  continued  to 
rage,  and  the  wind  blowing  guns,  we  were 
again  thrown  on  our  beam  ends.  The 
powers  of  tEoIus  feemed  to  have  marfhalled 
the  elements  for  our  def}:rud:ion.  We  re- 
E   2  mained 


52        VOrÀGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE» 

mained  in  this  miferable  plight  mucfe 
longer  than  before,  iror  did  the  ihip  right 
until,  cutting  away  the  mizzen-maft,  it 
went  overboard,  and  eafed  us  of  its  ineum- 
b  ranee. 

We  loil  on  this  occafion  two  top-mafts,. 
^he  fore-top-fail  yard,  the  main-top-fail, 
with  the  mizzen-maft  and  all  its  rigging: 
we  had  two  men  killed  by  the  fplinters  of 
the  fore-top-fail  yard  :  the  remainder  of  the 
night  we  fpent  in  faving  fomc  of  the  rig-, 
ging,  and  in  clearing  away  the  wreck*  Our 
anxiety  during  the  ftorm  was  much  increafed 
by  the  pofition  of  the  mizzen-mafi,  which» 
was  over  the  lide,.  and  beat  wi-th  fuch  vio- 
lt;nce  againft  the  timbers  of  the  fliip,  that  we 
€Xpeâ:ed  every  moment  flie  would  fpring  a 
plank,  or  that  the  cordage  of  the  wreck  along 
iide  would  entangle  itfelf  with  the  rudder. 

We  repaired  our  damage  in  the  befl  man- 
ner we  were  able,  and  the  wind  having  now 
abated,  bent  the  only  main-fail  we  had  re- 
maining. The  following  day  at  noon  w& 
iaw  the  Cape  of  the  Needles,  eaft  north 
eaft  five  degrees  north,  at  the  diftance  of 
^.ight  leagues.     The  enfuing  night  we  hove 

the 


*î^OYAGE   TO   THE   SOUTH   POLE.       53 

îlie  lead,  which  gave  us  forty-five  fathoms, 
•and  we  fleered  along  a  coaft  very  little 
known  ;  but  at  the  dawn  of  the  morning 
the  land  breeze  fpringing  up,  we  fcood  out 
to  fea,  and  bore  away  for  the  Ifle  of 
France. 

The  1 1  th  of  Augufl  we  reached  the  lati- 
tude 34^  48'',  and  according  to  the  ma- 
rine time-keeper  of  Monf.  Bertoud,  56° 
48''  eaftern  longitude,  whilfl  the  fhip's 
reckoning  placed  us  in  58^  39^^.  At 
half  pafl;  lix  in  the  evening  we  favv  a  comet 
in  the  weft  north  weft,  at  the  elevation  of  4^. 
The  tail  was  towards  the  zenith,  and  con- 
fequently  in  oppolition  to  the  fun,  which 
was  three  quarters  of  an  hour  below  the 
horizon . 

On  the  15th  we  faw  feveral  gouaJettes^ 
Vi  fpecies  of  fea-fowl  which  is  commonly 
feen  in  the  vicinity  of  land,  I  knew,  how- 
■ever,  of  no  land  near,  our  latitude  being 
32^  51''.  and  our  longitude  63^  26"  On 
the  26th  we  faw  the  Falk  en  ciil,  a  bird 
which  announced  our  approach  to  the  IHes 
of  France  and  Bourbon.  Next  day  we 
pafTed  the  lile  of  Rodrigue;  and  the  2yth, 
E  3  ca^iiç 


54       VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE, 

came   to  anchor  in   a  harbour  which  lies 
north  weft  of  the  Ifle  of  France. 

The  error  of  the  ihip's  reckoning  with 
refpeâ:  to  longitude  was  thirty-four  leagues 
and  a  half  weftward,  whilft  that  of  the 
time-keeper  was  next  to  nothing.  Our  ob- 
fervations  made  with  this  machine  placed 
the  Ifland  of  Rodrigue  ^°  45"  eaft  from 
Round  lile  off  the  lile  of  France,  and 
therefore  the  harbour  of  Rodrigue  in  61^ 
12,"  eaftern  longitude.  On  the  charts, 
however,  it  is  laid  down  in  60°  45^^. 
From  the  examination  of  our  time- keeper 
here  and  at  Falfe  bay,  we  found  it  had  gained 
one  minute  twenty-four  féconds  only  in  the 
ipaceof  an  hundred  and  one  days. 

Here  we  found  it  eafy  to  repair  the  da- 
mage we  had  fuffered  in  the  late  florm  -,  but 
in  order  that  we  might  enter  the  fouth  feas 
in  the  fine  feafon,  we  remained  two  months 
in  harbour,  part  of  which  time,  however, 
we  fpent  at  the  ifland  of  Bourbon,  where  we 
took  in  frefli  provifions,  and  replaced  our 
vegetables,  which  were  found  in  a  ftate  of 
corruption  in  the  bread-room. 

Both  population,  and  the  produdions  of 

the 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.       55 

the  foil,    in  the  Ifle  of  Bourbon,   are  in  a 
furpriflng  degree  fuperiour  to  thoie  of  the  Ifle 
of  France.     An  appearance  fo  little  exped:- 
ed  induced  me  to  make  fome  enquiry  into 
its  caufe  ;   and  after  informing  myfelf  re- 
ipeding  the  fuccours  afforded  to  both  fettle- 
ments  by  the  mother  country,  I  confidered 
this  fad  as  a  frefh  proof  of  one  of  my  old 
maxims,   that  limplicity  of  manners,    and 
the  diligent  cultivation  of  the  foil,  form  the 
only  folid  bafis  of  a  flourifhing  population. 
Thefe  are  the  only  arts  known  to  the  happy 
Bourbonois  ;    whereas,    the   prevalence   of 
vanity  and  intrigue  in  the  Ifle  of  France  has 
■damped  its  profperity,  and  greatly  retarded 
diofe  advantages  expeded  to  flow  from  this 
ifland  to  our  poflTefllons  in  .India» 


E  4  CHAP. 


^6      VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 


CHAP.        VII. 

Th  fuppofed  Exîjîence  of  a  Southern  Conti- 
nent — The  Means  to  be  purfued  in  the  pre- 
Jent  Voyage  to  afcertain  this  Fa5i — The 
Barometer  is  not  to  be  trufted  in  cold  Cli- 
mates and  high  Winds — Further  experi- 
ments on  the  ^antity  of  Salt  contained  y 
under  different  Latitudes,  in  Sea  Water, 

WE  had  authority  from  government  to 
fit  out  a  corvet  at  the  lile  of  France, 
for  the  purpofe  of  faciUtating  the  frigate's 
approach  to  land  in  the  courfe  of  our  difco- 
veries  J  and  this  buiinefs  being  now  accom- 
phfhed,  and  every  thing  in  readinefs  for  our 
departure,  we  fet  fail  the  29th  of  Ocftober. 

I  fliall  now  mention  fome  fa6ls  related  by 
voyagers,  which  had  contributed  to  lead 
men's  minds  to  the  idea  of  a  fouthcrn  conti- 
nent, and,  at  the  fame  time,  the  plan  we 
meant  to  purfue  for  its  difcovery. 

Capt.  Paulmierde  Gonneville  relates,  that 
in  doubling  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  he  en- 
countered a  violent  gale  of  wind  ;  and,  from 

the 


f.> 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.       ^y 

the  damaged  condition  of  his  fliip,  being  un- 
able to  make  head  againfl  the  ftorm,  he 
drifted,  but  at  length  found  himfelf  off  land, 
when  he  dropped  an  anchor  :  as  the  veiTel 
required  conliderable  repairs,  he  entered  the 
mouth  of  a  river  which  he  fays  is  about  the 
breadth  of  the  Seine.  Here  he  found  a 
people  of  affable  and  obliging  manners. 
They  weredreffed  in  a  fpecies  of  mat  and  fea- 
thers :  the  children  in  general  went  without 
clothing  ;  the  country  abounded  in  provi- 
iions,  and  was  governed  by  petty  princes 
who  lived  in  a  flate  of  confiant  warfare. 

The  fhips  the  Eagle  and  Mary  were 
equipped  in  the  year  1738  by  the  French 
Eaft-India  Company,  for  the  difcovery  of  a 
fouthern  continent,  and,  after  reaching  the 
parallel  of  50^  fouth  latitude,  and  15^^  eafl 
longitude  from  the  meridian  of  Paris, 
fcarcely  quitted  the  above  parallel  till  they 
arrived  at  35^  Eafl.  In  the  courfe  of  this 
navigation  they  difcovered  a  promontory, 
which,  being  feen  the  1  ft  of  January,  they 
named  Cape  Circumcifion.  But  the  ice, 
joined  to  a  thick  atmofphere  and  heavy 
gales   of  wind,    prevented  their   going  on 

fhorç 


5S       VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE." 

fhore  to   invefligate  the  nature  of  the  dif- 
covery. 

The  Mafcarcign  and   Caftries   failed  in 
the  year  1771  from  the  Ifle  of  France,    to 
carry  back  to  his  native  country  the  Indian 
whom  Monf.  de  Bouganville   had  brought 
with  him  to  Paris  from  the  iiland  of  Ota- 
heite.     Having  reached  47^  South  latitude, 
with  a  longitude  of  between   16^  and  17*^, 
they  failed  eaft,  deviating   little   from  the 
fame  parallel  till  they  arrived  at  the  ifland  of 
New  Zeland.     In  this  route  they  difcovered 
two  groups  of  fmall  illands,    which   they 
named,    from   their  extreme    flerility,  the 
Arid  ifles.     The  firft  is  fituated  in  the  la- 
titude of  46^  30'^  and  by  the  meridian  of 
Paris  35^  42'^     The  fécond  is  in  the  lati- 
tude of  46^   16'',  and  in  the  longitude   of 
47°  36''.   and  is  entirely  barren.     The  vef- 
fel  experienced  in  this  paflage  frequent  fogs, 
fnow,  and  fevere  gales  of  wind. 

It  would  plainly  appear  from  the  above 
voyages,  as  well  as  from  the  relations  of 
other  navigators,  fuch  as  Commodore  An- 
fon,  who,  in  doubling  Cape  Horn,  made 
a  long  run  fouthward,  that  if  a  continent 

adually 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.       59 

adually  exifts  in  the  fouth  feas,  the  part  of 
it  which  borders  upon  the  Atlantic  mufl 
lie  in  a  much  higiier  latitude  than  50^  ; 
that  the  part  of  it  which  extends  towards 
the  Indian  ocean  is  in  a  latitude  fomewhat 
higher  than  47^  ;  but  that  as  to  the  coaft 
which  fhould  ilretch  along  the  Pacific 
ocean,  our  data  do  not  enable  us  even  to 
form  a  conjeélure.  Land,  it  is  true,  has 
been  laid  down  on  the  charts,  as  difcovered 
by  Capt.  Drake,  fouth  fouth  weft  from 
Cape  Horn,  and  therefore  much  higher  in 
latitude  than  the  two  points  above  men- 
tioned. 

Thefe  voyages  ferve  likewife  to  evince, 
that  if  the  land  vifited  by  Monf.  de  Gonne- 
ville  is  ad:ually  fouth  of  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  it  can  only  be  an  ifland,  and  muft  lie 
fouth  eaft  or  eaft  fouth  eaft  from  the  Cape. 
I  confefs  I  have  many  doubts  refpediing  the 
polition  given  to  this  land  by  that  navigator  ; 
his  narrative,  as  it  relates  to  the  people  he 
met  with,  cannot  apply  to  the  inhabitants 
of  any  land  direcflly  fouth  from  the  Cape, 
but  is  highly  defcriptive  of  the  natives  of 
Madagafcar  ;    there  the  kings  are  conftantly 

at 


6o       VOYAGE   TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 

at  war  with  each  other  j  the  people  are  of 
gay  affable  manners,  and  drefs  in  a  fpecies 
of  mat;  the  children  go  naked,  and  the 
birds  are  peculiarly  beautiful  in  their  plum- 
age. There  are,  befides,  rivers  in  the  fouthern 
partoftheifland  large  enough  to  have  received 
the  ihips  of  Monf.  de  Gonneville  ;  and  gales 
of  wind  from  the  fea  frequently  blow  into 
the  mouth  of  the  channel  with  great  impe- 
tuofity.  From  the  antiquity  of  this  voyage, 
it  feems  by  no  means  improbable,  that  the 
part  of  Monf.  de  Gonneville's  narrative  in 
which  he  defcribes  the  ftorm  he  met  with 
in  doubling  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  may 
either  have  been  mutilated  or  mifunderftood 
by  the  editor.  Were  the  facSls  to  be  ad- 
mitted nearly  as  they  have  been  reprefented, 
it  is  evident  that  the  land  at  which  he  went 
on  fhore,  muft  lie  in  a  vaflly  higher  latitude 
than  that  of  the  Cape,  fmce  the  flrong 
gales  prevalent  in  thofe  parts  fet  in  almofl 
uniformly  from  the  north  or  north  weft. 
But  then  how  can  we  reconcile  the  flight 
drefs  of  the  inhabitants,  and  the  naked  con- 
dition of  the  children,  to  the  genius  of  a 
fouthern  climate  much  higher  in  latitude 

than 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.       6ï 

than  the  Cape.  The  place  I  (hould  aflign 
to  the  difcovery  of  M.  de  Gonneville  would 
be  in  the  fouth  eaft  or  eaft  fouth  eafl  -,  for 
if  it  lay  direftly  fouth  of  the  Cape,  it  would 
fcarcely  have  been  miffed  by  fliips  paffing 
between  India  and  Europe,  which,  in  order 
to  efcape  the  fevere  gales  fo  frequent  off  the 
extreme  point  of  Africa,  ufed  formerly  to 
fail  all  the  way  to  40^  of  latitude. 

We  refolved,  therefore,  to  proceed  eaft, 
until  we  fliould  reach  the  latitude  of  38^ 
or  40^.  with  the  longitude  of  35^  or  37^  ; 
for  as  the  land  vifited  by  M.  de  Gonneville 
muft  have  been  of  confiderable  extent,  lince 
it  was  parcelled  out  among  a  variety  of  dif- 
ferent princes,  we  conceived  we  had  a  good 
chance  of  falling  in  with  it  in  following  this 
courfe.  But  in  the  event  of  making  no 
fuch  difcovery,  we  meant  to  proceed  to  la- 
titude 50*^.  and  as  nearly  as  poffible  to  the 
place  where  the  Eagle  and  Mary  quitted  this 
parallel,  and  then  to  purfue,  the  track  of 
thofe  fliips  caftward.  In  the  courfe  of  this 
navigation  we  hoped  to  have  the  merit  of 
difcovering  different  parts  of  the  fouthern 
continent. 

4  On 


62      VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.' 

On  the  1 6  th  of  November  we  arrived  in 
38^  i"  fouth  latitude,  and  38^  32^^  eaft 
longitude  ;  the  variation  of  the  needle  was 
28^  1" ,  We  had  been  unfortunate  enough 
the  two  preceding  days  to  have  very  hazy 
weather.  On  the  17th,  we  faw  goualettes 
of  a  grey  colour,  birds  which  are  generally 
difcovered  in  the  neighbourhood  of  land  : 
the  atmofphere  was  obfcure  and  foggy.  In 
latitude  40^.  and  longitude  38°.  I  repeated 
my  experiments,  and  found  that  a  hundred 
pounds  of  fea-water  contained  four  pounds 
of  fait. 

The  1 8th  we  faw  the  grey  goualettes  in 
great  numbers,  and  a  fpecies  of  fowl  black 
and  grey,  which  we  named  capuchins,  from. 
the  fombre  appearance  of  their  feathers. 
Next  day  the  wind  blew  from  the  north  eaft 
with  a  thick  haze  ;  the  weather  was  dry, 
but  extremely  obfcure  ;  the  wind  began  to 
blow  in  fqualls,  and  we  faw  the  fame  fpecies 
of  fea-fowl  as  the  evening  before. 

The  20th,  in  latitude  43^  45'^  Reau- 
mur's thermometer  ftood  at  6^  above  npo- 
thing.  Befide  the  fea-fowls  of  the  pre- 
ceding day,  we  faw  penguins,  and  multi- 
tudes 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.       63 

tudes  of  fea-wolves  :  during  the  night  we 
founded  every  four  hours  -,  the  weft  and 
north  weft  winds  blew  frefh,  and  fhifting 
to  the  fouth  weft,  continued  in  violent 
fqualls  till  morning.  Thefe  gufts  of  wind 
were  accompanied,  fometimes  with  fnow, 
and  fometimes  with  rain  ;  but  we  had,  ne- 
verthelefs,  in  the  courfe  of  the  day,  inter- 
vals of  fine  funfhine.  Our  latitude  was 
44^*  21''.  and  longitude  39^. 

On  the  23d  we  faw  a  tree  floating  with  all 
its  roots,  penguins,  fea-wolves,  feme  large 
fea-weed,  with  a  tubical  ftem  and  broad 
leaves,  circumftances  which  we  had  no 
doubt  were  indications  of  land  ;  but  in 
what  quarter  we  ought  to  go  in  fearch  of  it 
we  were  at  a  lofs  to  imagine.  The  fouth 
weft  wind,  accompanied  with  a  rolling  fea, 
obliged  us  to  rife  a  little  in  latitude  ;  we 
had  not  the  fmalleft  reafon,  however,  to 
fuppofe  that  our  chance  of  finding  land  was 
by  this  means  in  any  degree  diminilhed. 
We  lay  to  during  a  part  of  the  night,  and 
when  the  weather  was  hazy  and  overcaft, 
hove  the  lead  at  regular  intervals,  and,  in 
ihort,  were  at  all  manner  of  pains  for  its  dif- 

covery. 


64       VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 

covery,  but  in  vain.  It  feems  barely  pof- 
iible  that  the  above  appearances  were  fal- 
lacious; at  any  rate  we  failed  fifteen  leagues 
eaft  fouth  eafl  from  the  above  point,  without 
difcoveringany  thing  like  land. 

The  weather  became  more  moderate, 
with  a  tolerably  ferene  iky,  and  on  the  24th 
and  26th  the  corvet  was  in  condition  to  carry 
all  her  fmall  fails. 

On  the  26th,  being  in  latitude  46*^  12''. 
and  longitude  41^  25''.  I  found  that  100 
pounds  c.f  fea- water  gave  4-^'- pounds  of 
fait.  The  wind,  when  it  fhifted  towards 
the  fouth,  blew  with  greater  violence  than 
when  it  blew  from  towards  the  north  point  5 
but  in  the  firfl:  cafe  the  atmofphere  was 
clear,  and  the  horizon  as  full  of  ftars  as  in 
a  night  under  the  finefl  climate. 

The  weather  continued  ferene  till  the 
27th,  and  during  this  interval  we  faw  very 
few  fea-fowls.  Perhaps  that  inftind:  which 
in  ftormy  weather  induces  thefe  animals  to 
feek  flielter  on  land,  may  often,  in  thofe 
deiart  regions  of  the  ocean,  draw  them 
towards  the  fhip  from  their  mistaking  it  for 
a  rock.     I  remarked  that  we  faw  the  king's 

fifhers 


Voyage  to  the  south  pole,       65 

ï^ifliers,  and  the  Damier  or  Petrel,  in  greater 
numbers  at  the  fetting  in  of  bad  weather, 
or  in  a  gale  of  wind,  than  in  more  moderate 
weather.  This  laft  fpecies  I  did  not  men- 
tion before,  becaufe  it  may  be  prefumed, 
from  their  great  frequency  at  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  that  they  are  fufficiently 
known.  Their  name  is  derived  from  their 
plumage,  which  is  fpeckled  black  and 
white  :  they  are  not  very  frequent  in  high 
latitudes,  nor  are  they  equally  common  in 
hot  climates  as  at  the  Cape;  whence  it  feems 
probable  that  the  temperature  moft  fuitable 
to  this  fpecies  is  between  26^  and  46 '^  of 
latitude. 

On  the  27th,  being  in  longitude  41^  30'/. 
we  cut  the  parallel  of  the  fàrfh  cluftre  of 
iiles  difcovered  by  the  Mafcareign  and 
Caftries.  Though  it  is  placed  by  thefe 
fhips  in  longitude  35^  42'^  yet  confidering 
the  force  and  prevalency  of  the  weflerly 
winds  in  thofe  parts  we  were  inclined  to  be- 
lieve the  fliip's  reckoning  had  been  erroneous, 
and  that  their  aâ:ual  polition  is  much  fur- 
ther towards  the  eafl:  ;  and  we  conceived 
that  if  thefe  little  illands  were  the  append- 

Vol.  III.  F  ages 


66         VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 

ages  of  any  extenfive  trafl  of  land  we  fhouldl 
probably  fall  in  with  it  in  our  prefent  courfe. 
From  the  ufually  thick  flate  of  the  atmof- 
phere  and  violence  of  the  winds,  it  feemed 
not  improbable  that  thefe  fliips  might  have 
pafTed  within  a  moderate  diflance  of  a  large 
territory  without  feeing  it.  But  it  fhould 
feem,  likewife,  that  if  any  fuch  land  exifts 
in  their  vicinity,  it  muft  lie  in  their  northern 
quarter;  for  had  it  been  lituated  towards 
the  fouth,  as  the  Ihips  purfued  this  direc- 
tion, it  would  fcarcely  have  efcaped  their 
obfervation.  Be  this  as  it  may,  in  the  courfe 
we  followed  we  had  not  the  fmallefl  notice 
of  land  ',  neither  on  the  evening  preceding 
the  27th,  nor  on  any  of  the  immediately 
fucceeding  days,  did  we  obferve  Sea- wolf. 
Penguin,  or  indeed  almoft  any  bird  what- 
ever. It  is  true  we  had  fome  hazy  weather, 
but  it  was  by  iliort  intervals,  and  the  fky 
was  upon  the  whole  tolerably  clear. 

On  the  30th  we  reached  the  latitude  49^ 
27''.  and  longitude  42^  27".  we  were  now 
riling  into  conliderably  high  latitudes  ^  the 
wind  blew  frefh  from  the  north  eafi:  with  a 
high  fea,  and  fnow  fell  in  large  fleaks  during 

the 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE,  (yj 

fquall  ;  the  mercury  meanwhile  was  not 
quite  4^  above  nothing.  We  faw  fea-weed 
and  many  birds  of  the  fiime  fpecies  we  had 
itç.ïi  before;  a  white  fowl  in  fliape  refem- 
bling  the  Goualan,  and  a  black  one,  which 
did  not  appear  to  belong  to  thofe  tribes  that 
venture  far  from  land.  His  wings  are  fhort 
and  broad,  and  in  his  flight,  which  is  ef- 
feded  without  foaring,  he  has  an  abrupt 
quick  flroke — circumflances  which  fliow 
him  but  little  qualified  for  very  exteniive 
cxcurfions  from  lands. 

The  ift  of  December  the  wind  veered  to 
the  north  eaft  a  quarter  north,  with  a  thick 
haze,  but  it  foon  fhifted  to  the  weft,  frefh- 
ened  confiderably,  and  the  haze  ended  in  a 
fall  of  fnow.  The  mercury  v/as  five  de- 
grees above  nothing,  with  the  air  extremely 
cold,  and  the  fky  deeply  overcafl.  We  faw 
a  Sea-cow,  and  different  forts  of  fea-fowls. 

The  2d,  we  had  a  great  deal  of  fnow, 
which  fell  inceffantly,  even  between  the 
fqualls  j  the  air  was  penetrating,  and  the 
mercury  flood  at  3°  above  nothing,  while  the 
wind  and  fea  \vere  boifterous  as  the  evening 
before.  Next,  day  the  wind  flill  frefliening, 
F  2  came 


68         VOYAGE   TO   THE   SOUTH   POLE. 

came  at  length  to  blow  a  gale;  the  fnow 
continued,  and  the  mercury  funk  to  2^. 
Our  latitude  by  the  fliip's  reckoning  was  50° 
2".  and  our  longitude  52°  43''.  Want  of 
accuracy  in  the  barometer,  efpecially  during 
high  winds,  is  the  reafon  of  my  not  having 
mentioned  this  inflru  ment  before.  In  more 
temperate  climates  I  had  found  it  very  ac-,. 
curate  ;  but  now,  provided  the  weather  was 
-dry,  it  did  not  fail,  let  the  wind  be  however 
high  it  would  ;  on  the  contrary,  it  fome- 
times  rofe,  particularly  in  a  clear  ftate  of  the 
atmofphere.  This  inftrument,  which  in 
the  v/inter  months  at  the  Cape  had  jdood  at 
28  inches  three  or  four  lines  during  a  high 
wind,  pointed,  the  30th  of  November, 
27  inches  two  lines,  with  the  thermometer 
4^  above  nothing,  the  wind  high,  and  a 
o-reat  fall  of  fnow.  The  i  ft  of  December 
the  mercury  fell  to  26  inches  10  lines, 
while  the  thermometer  was  5°  above  no- 
thing; the  weather  was  at  firft  hazy,  and 
the  wind,  in  the  N.  E.  I-  N.  fliifting 
to  the  N.  W.  andW.  frefhened  confider- 
ably,  with  fnow,  which  the  atmofphere 
feemed  to  threaten  more.      Next  day  the 

barometer 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.         69 

barometer  mounted  to  27  inches  one  line, 
and  the  thermometer  funk  to  3^,  the  wind, 
meanwhile,  increaiing,  with  the  fame  fall 
of  fnow,  though  in  the  intervals  of  the 
fqualls  the  iky  appeared  much  lefs  loaded. 

On  the  3d  the  barometer  rofe  to  27  inches 
four  lines,  and  the  thermometer  fell  to  tP 
though  we  had  a  ftrong  gale  of  wind,  ac- 
companied with  a  great  fall  of  fnow  ;  it  is 
true  the  atmofphere  was  at  times  pretty 
clear,  but  the  great  and  general  irregularity 
of  this  inftrument  prevented  my  placing  in 
it  the  fmalleft  confidence. 

On  the  4th,  the  wind  having  gone  round 
to  the  north,  the  weather  relaxed  greatly 
of  its  rigour;  the  fun  {hone  in  all  its  fplendor, 
and  the  winds  died  away  towards  evening  ; 
we  encountered  currents,  but  were  not  able 
to  difcover  their  direction .  The  variation 
of  the  needle  was  2(f , 

This  ferene  weather  was  of  fliort  dura- 
tion :  next  day  the  wind  changed  to  the 
N.  N.  E.  ilormy,  and  foon  after  to  the 
N.  N.  W.  with  very  heavy  fqualls  :  the  at- 
mofphere was  thick  and  hazy,  with  a  fall 
of  fmall  rain.  This  bad  weather  lafted 
F   3  during 


70        I'OYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE, 

during  the  whole  of  the  8  th,  and  in  the 
evening  the  wind  veered  to  the  N.  N.  W, 
ftill  blov/ing  in  violent  gufts,  with  fnow.  In 
the  courfe  of  this  fevere  gale  we  had  inter- 
vals of  clear  Iky  ;  the  frigate  loil:  her  fore- 
fail  ;  meanwhile,  we  faw  fome  fea-fowls. 
On  the  7th  of  December  our  longitude 
was  58^  2^\  and  latitude  50''.  the  precife 
parallel  we  were  defirous  of. 

The  wind  fhifted  on  the  9th  to  the 
N.  N.  W.  and  the  weather  became  lefs 
tempefluous,  though  fnow  fell  inceflantly 
from  a  thick  atmofphere.  We  faw  few 
birds  except  Penguins,  which  were  in  great 
numbers,  and  fo  furprifmgly  tame,  that 
they  followed  us,  hovering  along-lide,  and 
chattering  like  flocks  of  ducks. 

Next  day,  befides  birds  fuch  as  we  had 
already  frequently  obferved,  we  faw  a  very 
large  fpecies  of  Sea-fowl,  Moutons  de  cape, 
and  fea-vveed.  The  weather  became  fo 
fine,  that  the  corvet  fet  her  top-fails  ;  the 
nth  was  foggy,  with  the  wind  at  N.N. 
W.  Next  morning  it  blew  frefli,  with 
rain  ;  and  at  noon  tlie  wind  fhifting  to  the 
W.  N.  W.  became  fo  tempefluous,    that 

we 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.        7I 

we  had  almoil  loft  the  mizzen-fail  and  yard. 
It  fnowed,  and  we  faw  fome  birds,  chiefly 
penguins. 

Towards  evening  on  the  following  day 
the  fea  fubfided,  and  became  beautiful;  the 
wind  at  W.  S.  W.  died  away  into  a  gentle 
breeze,  and  we  faw  few  birds. 


CHAP.     VIII. 

Difcovery  of  feveral  IJlands  and  a  main  hand 
— One  of  the  Iflands  is  fixed  upon  as  a 
'Rendezvous  for  the  two  Vejfelsy  and  is 
ithej'efore  named  the  Ifiand  of  Re-tinion — A 
new  Coajl  is  alfo  difcovered, 

THE  day  we  had  fo  eagerly  looked  for 
at  length  arrived;  on  the  14th,  at 
half  paft  feven  in  the  morning,  we  difco- 
vered  a  large  fhoal  of  ice  apparently  ftation- 
ary  on  a  rock,  and  foon  after,  the  man  at 
the  maft  head  faw  hidiland  ftretchin^  north 
and  fouth  as  far  as  he  could  fee.  We  ftood 
direélly  for  it,  and  at  ten  o'clock  we  hove 
F  4  the 


72  VOYAGE   TO  THE  SOUTH   POLE. 

the  lead,  which  gave  us  i  lo  fathoms  water, 
on  a  black  muddy  fand  mixed  with  fhells. 
At  noon  we  fleered  toward  sa  large  round  hill, 
appearing  in  the  fouth  caft  tv/o  degrees  eaft, 
at  the  diftance  of  five  leagues.  Our  lati- 
tude was  49^  id'',  and  longitude  66^  i8''. 
Eaft  from  the  meridian  of  Paris.  Ever 
fmce  our  quitting  thelfleof  Bourbon  we  had 
regulated  our  longitude  by  the  time-keeper» 
having  found  that  it  gave  greater  certainty 
in  thofe  thick  and  boifterous  regions  than 
either  the  fhip's  reckoning,  or  any  obferva- 
tions  we  could  take  of  the  heavenly  bodies. 
At  three  in  the  afternoon  we  were  only  at  a 
league  and  a  half's  diftance  from  land,  when 
we  flood  for  a  kind  of  recefs  in  the  coaft, 
in  hopes  we  ihould  meet  there  with  good 
anchorage. 

The  coaft  prefents  a  mountainous  and 
very  rugged  afped,  and  feems  to  have  been 
interfered  in  many  places  by  the  impetuous 
fall  of  torrents.  The  inter^our  country, 
as  far  as  we  could  difcern,  was  covered  with 
fnow,  which,  far  from  exhibiting  a  fmooth 
furface,  as  in  Europe,  appeared  in  large 
white  patches,  fuggefting  the  idea  of  a  rude 

a,ad 


VOYAGE   TO  THE   SOUTH  POLE.  73 

and  uncultivated  foil.  Along  the  coaft 
were  many  beautiful  cafcades,  formed  by 
large  torrents  which  were  fed  by  the  melting 
of  the  inland  fnows.  A  river,  fkirted  with 
a  lively  verdure  produced  by  fome  ftraggling 
thickets  of  fhrubbery,  joined  thefea  through 
a  chafm  in  the  mountain. 

In  the  morning  we  had  fine  weather,  and 
a  pleaiant  breeze  from  the  W.  S.  W.  but  the 
wind  fliifting  abruptly  towards  the  north, 
died  away,  and  the  weather  became  hazy. 
We  flood  off  the  coafl  the  enfuing  night, 
and  had  a  moderate  wind,  accompanied 
with  fmall  rain. 

Next  day,  the  weather  ftill  moderate, 
the  wind  veered  to  the  fouth,  and  the  fky 
became  clear  towards  evening  :  in  the  night, 
during  the  general  watch,  we  faw  a  beau- 
tiful Aurora  borealis  -,  at  two  o'clock  P.  M, 
our  foundings  were  95  fathoms  on  a  coral 
bottom,  and  at  fix  in  the  evening  105,  on 
a  bottom  of  the  fame.  In  this  depth  we 
brought  up  two  pieces  of  coral  of  a  deep 
red,  which  prefented  a  number  of  ramified 
tubes  refembling  the  root  of  the  cocoa-tree. 
We  law    very   few  birds,   except    a  large 

Mouton,^ 


74   VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 

Mouton,  fome  Penguins,  and  a  fowl  with 
a  large  broad  wing. 

The  morning  of  the  i6th  we  had  no 
fathoms  water,  on  a  bottom  of  fine  grey 
fand,  mixed  with  clay  ;  and  at  five,  having 
a  fmall  breeze  at  fouth  eaft,  with  a  clear 
horizon,  we  difcovered  a  little  ifland  in  the 
form  of  a  wedge,  iloping  towards  the  weft. 
A  hiç^h  land,  which  we  found  to  be  like  wife 
anidand,  was  feenfoon  after,  fouth  weft  from 
the  former.  The  firft  we  named  the  Ifland 
of  Re- union,  becaufe  we  agreed  it  ftiould 
be  the  place  of  rendezvous  in  cafe  of  fepa- 
ration  ;  and  to  the  fécond  we  gave  the  name 
of  Ifle  de  Croy,  in  honour  of  a  gentleman, 
who,  on  all  occafions  diftinguifhed  for  his 
publick  fpirit,  had  been  particularly  care- 
ful to  make  fuch  arrangements  as  under 
Providence  might  give  fuccefs  to  the  prefent 
expedition. 

The  following  day  we  faw  high  land 
fouth  and  one  quarter  fouth  eaft  from  the 
Ifle  de  Croy,  which  we  examined,  and 
found  to  be  an  ifland,  which  we  named  Ifle 
de  Rolland,  from  the  fliip.  Between  the 
above  two  large  iflands  we  faw  four  ©thers, 

much 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.        y^ 

much  fmaller,  and  low  upon  the  water.  A 
kind  of  promontory,  which  we  named  Cape 
François,  next  prefented  itfelf,  with  a  coaft 
flretching  to  the  fbuth  eafl.  This  is  the 
main  land,  and  we  found  it,  upon  invefti- 
gation,  contiguous  to  our  firfl:  difcovery 
on  the  14th.  In  the  vicinity  of  Cape 
François,  eaftward,  we  difcovered  two  bays 
feparated  by  a  ftrip  of  land  of  a  remarkable 
form,  having  the  effed:  of  a  magnificent 
arch  or  gate- way,  through  which  we  faw 
light.  In  what  manner  the  elements  ad:i ng 
upon  this  ridge  had  in  procefs  of  time  made 
fuch  an  opening  in  its  fides  as  to  exhibit  the 
prefent  fingular  appearance,  it  is  difficult 
to  fay 

Tantum  cevi  longinqua  valet  mut  are  vetiijîas. 

From  the  17th  to  the  23d,  the  winds 
were  very  irregular,  with  a  iky  fometimes 
clear  and  fometimes  hazy.  We  contented 
ourfelves  with  a  general  furvey  of  the  figure 
of  the  Coaft,  which  making  a  fweep  from 
the  north  eaft  to  the  fouth  eaft  forms  a 
moft  extenfive  gulph.  The  waves  broke 
with  great  violence  on  the  furrounding  rocks, 
4  and 


76        VOYAGE   TO   THE  SoUTH   POLE. 

and  we  were  not  a  little  apprehenfive  of  be- 
ing wind-bound  in  this  perilous  fituation. 
In  the  bofom  of  the  gulph  is  a  low  ifland 
of  conliderable  extent.  We  faw  many 
whales  with  whitiih  fpots,  and  a  fpecies  of 
Penguins  of  a  reddifh  colour,  which  hover- 
ed about  the  fhip,  frighting  us  with  a  hoarfe 
obfcene  fcream  between  that  of  a  crow  and 
a  duck.  The  keennefs  of  the  air  produced 
a  fharp  appetite  in  the  fhip's  company,  in 
fo  much  that  fome  of  them  fainted  on  duty 
for  want  of  fufficient  fubfiftence,  and  it  was 
neceflary  to  increafe  their  daily  allowance. 

From  the  27th  to  the  29th,  the  wind 
being  at  W.  N.  W.  blew  in  fuch  fqualls 
as  to  endanger  our  rigging  -,  fome  of  the  men 
became  indifpofed  from  the  feverity  of  the 
weather  ;  it  was  full  moon,  and  we  had 
fog,  rain,  and  hail  alternately  to  contend, 
with. 

The  30th  was  fine  weather;  but  from 
the  31ft  to  the  2d  of  January,  1774,  the 
wind  veering  in  the  fame  quarter  from  N.N. 
W.  to  N.  W.  freihened  into  heavy  gales. 

The  violence  of  the  ftorm  had  carried  us 

confiderably 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.  ^'J 

confiderably  towards  the  eaft,  and,  on  the 
5th,  we  difcovered  new  land  ftretching  out 
of  fight  eaft  and  weil:.  The  lead  gave  us 
125  fathoms  on  a  fine  black  fand  mixed  with 
fmall  pebbles  of  the  fame  colour.  On  this 
coail;  the  land  appears  lower  and  lefs  rude 
than  any  we  had  hitherto  obferved.  In  the 
morning  wefaw  numbers  of  Penguins  and  a 
fpecies  of  fmall  Gouallettes. 


CHAP.        IX, 

Juanding  at  the  IJland  of  'Re-union^  and  Pof- 
JèJ/ion  taken  of  the  difcovered  Countries—^ 
The  Crews  fuffer  very  feverefy  from  the 
Rigour  of  the  Climate — Refections  on  the 
Prevalence  of  Storms,  and  particular  Winds 
in  this  Part  of  the  Globe. 

FROM  the  3d,  the  wind  continued  at 
eaft  varying  to  the  north  eaft,  but 
moderate  with  a  beautiful  fea  5  we  profited 
by  this  favourable  interval  to  repair  to 
the  Illand  of  Re-union. 

On  the  6th  we  landed  in  the  firft   bay, 

eaft 


7^         VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 

eaft  from  Cape  François,  and  took  formal 
polîeffion  of  our  difcoveries. 

The  fhip  anchored  in  a  fmall  road 
about  half  a  mile  in  length,  and  a  third 
more  in  breadth,  containing  a  fmall  port  or 
harbour  which  fronts  the  fouth  eafl,  and  is 
half  a  mile  broad  at  its  entrance.  In  the 
road  the  foundings  are  from  forty-five  to 
thirty  fathoms  ;  and  in  the  harbour  from 
1 6  to  8 — a  depth  of  water  which  continues 
the  fame  clofe  to  the  fhore.  The  bottom, 
in  both,  is  of  black  fand  mixed  with  clay. 
The  coaft,  on  each  lide,  is  lofty,  but  green, 
with  an  abrupt  defcent,  and  fwarms  with 
a  fpecies  of  Buflard.  At  the  upper  end  of 
the  harbour  is  a  little  hill,  between  which 
and  the  fea,  is  a  fmall  bank  of  fand  and  gra- 
vel; acrofs  which,  a  river  inconiiderable 
in  its  dimenfions,  but  containing  very  fine 
v/ater  that  ilTues  from  a  lake  beyond,  and,  at 
fome  diflance  from  the  hill,  runs  into  the 
fea.  The  fand  was  covered  with  Penguins 
and  Sea-lions  ;  which,  from  their  great 
familiarity  and  entire  freedom  from  any 
alarm  at  our  approach,  feçmed  to  afTure  us, 
that  the  country  was  totally  uninhabited. 

The 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.        79 

The  foil  produces  a  kind  of  grafs,  about 
five  inches  in  length,  with  a  broad  black 
leaf,  and,  feemingly,  of  a  rich  quality; 
but  we  faw  not  a  lingle  tree  nor  the  veftige 
of  a  human  habitation.  The  liland  of  Re- 
union lies  in  latitude  48^  21  ''.  and  longitude 
66^  47'^  The  variation  of  the  needle  was 
30^.  always  towards  the  north  weft. 

On  the  morning  of  the  9th,  it  being  fine 
weather,  we  fent  off  a  boat  to  the  fhore; 
fo  little  were  the  Penguins  and  Buftards  ap- 
prehenfive  of  us,  that  they  fuftered  them- 
felves  to  be  knocked  down  with  the  oar. 
In  a  fhort  time  the  iky  became  overcaft, 
and  the  boat  in  doubling  a  rocky  point  on 
the  ftarboard,  in  order  to  enter  the  road, 
was  fuddenly  driven  back  by  a  violent  guft 
of  wind,  rain  and  hail.  The  boat  drifted 
and  was  every  moment  in  danger  of  fink- 
ing; happily,  however,  after  a  ftorm  of 
fome  hours,  the  bad  weather  abated,  when 
the  crew  finding  themfelves  near  Rolland 
Ille,  and  in  view  of  the  Corvet,  made 
towards  her  with  all  poffible  difpatch.  The 
men,  v/ho  v/ere  completely  worn  out  with 
fatigue   and   cold,    had   no  fooner  got  on 

board 


So         VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  f»OtÈ* 

board  than  the  boat  funk.  We  immedi-* 
ately  flood  out  to  fea. 

It  is  aftonifhing  how  much  we  fufFered 
from  the  intenfenefs  of  the  cold  during  the 
fi:orm,  which  laifted  from  ten  in  the  morn- 
ing till  three  in  the  afternoon.  The  wind 
fet  in  from  the  fouth  eaft,  varying  from  the 
fouth  point  to  weft  fouth  weft  ;  and  the  fnow 
and  hail  adhered  in  a  thick  cruft  to  the  mafts 
and  rigging.  An  attempt  was  made  to  take 
in  the  forefail  which  was  in  danger  of  being 
carried  away  ;  but  the  ftrongeft  men  on 
board  were  unable  to  hand  it  ;  it  was  a 
perfed:  fheet  of  ice.  Such  was  the  weak  and 
benumbed  condition  of  the  crew  from  the 
froft  and  piercing  wind  that  covered  them 
with  fnow  and  hail,  that,  after  repeated  ex- 
ertions, the  bufinefs  was  left  uneffeâ:ed. 
What  fhall  we  think  of  this  extraordinary 
climate  ?  We  were  now  in  the  middle  of 
the  fine  feafon,  this  very  day  correfpond- 
ing  to  the  9th  of  July  in  the  northern  hemif- 
phere. 

The  currents  in  thefe  reo:ions  feem  to 
run  N.  E.  though  in  the  gulph,  eaft  of 
Cape  Francois,   they  appear  very  irregular  ; 

it 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.       8t 

it  fliould  feem,  however,  from  the  diredion 
in  which  the  corvet  drifted,  between  the 
7th  and  8th,  that  they  fet  in  from  the  fouth 
weft,  and  made  the  circuit  of  the  gulf. 

The  days  following  we  had  fair  and  hazy 
weather  alternately,  and  in  a  very  rapid  fuc- 
ceffion;  the  mean  heat  at  the  Ifland  of  Re- 
union I  computed  to  be  about  6^  above  froft; 
and  at  the  fame  place  1 00  pounds  of  fea- water 
gave  four  pounds  and  a  half  of  fait.  I  ob- 
fefvcd  that  we  had  more  haze  and  rain  in  the 
middle  than  in  the  beginning  of  fummer  ; 
lince  for  fome  time  the  rains  and  fog  had  be- 
come extremely  frequent,  whilft  the  winds 
were  in  general  lefs  violent  and  more  variable. 
All  along,  however,  we  had  occafionally 
ftrong  gales,  fuch  as  that  of  the  9th  5  and  the 
twilight,  from  the  variety  and  brilliancy  of 
colouring  which  it  fpread  over  the  heavens,  af- 
forded a  very  beautiful  profpedt.  I  imagin- 
ed that  the  winds  were  more  boiflerous  about 
the  time  of  full  moon  than  in  her  wane. 

Ever  fince  we  croffed  the  meridian  of  the 
iflands  difcovered  by  the  Mafcareigne  and 
Caftries,  the  wind  began  and  continued  to 
fet  in  with  a  haze  from  the  N.  N.  E.  quar- 

VoL.  III.  G  ter, 


§2       VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 

ter,  varying  to  the  N.  N.  W.  where  it  gene- 
rally became  frefli.  It  then  ufed  to  veer  in 
fqualls,  but  with  lefs  haze,  from  N.  W.  to 
W.  N.  W.  when  the  weather  clearing  up, 
it  frequently  terminated  in  a  calm.  If  the 
wind  continued  to  veer  towards  the  fouth 
wefc,  the  weather  became  rough  and  tem- 
peftuous  in  violent  fqualls  j  but  as  its  force 
feemed  to  exhaufl  itfelf,  the  weather  became 
gradually  line.  In  a  fhort  time  the  wind 
again  returned  to  the  N.  E.  or  N.  N.  E, 
frefli  and  hazy. 

From  the  time  of  our  arrival  on  this 
newly- difcovered  coail,  the  wind  was  fel- 
dom  in  the  eaft,  and  in  the  few  inftances  of 
its  blowing  from  that  quarter,  it  was  always 
faint,  and  accompanied  with  a  clear  iky. 
The  charad:er  of  the  winds,  in  other  re- 
fped:s,  was  much  the  fame  as  has  been  men- 
tioned, with  this  difference,  that  they  blew 
moil  violently,  attended  by  rain  or  fog, 
when  palling  from  the  N.  N.  E.  to  the 
N.  N.  W. — and  as  they  fhifted  in  fqualls  to 
the  W.  N.  W.  the  weather  gradually  be- 
came fine.  If  they  continued  to  veer  from 
tfie   W.  S.  W.     to    the    S.  W.    the   fky 

became 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.       83 

became  ferene   with  a  gentle  breeze;    but 

foon  getting  round  to  the  N.E.  and  N.N.E. 

they  began  to  blow  with  their  ufual  violence. 

I  found,    upon   comparing  the  journals 

we  kept  during  the  interval  of  our  fepara- 
tion,  that  the  winds  in  thefe  regions  are  ex- 
tremely limited.  It  has  happened,  that 
when  the  two  ihips  were  only  eight  leagues 
afunder,  the  one  was  labouring  in  a  ftorm, 
while  the  other  enjoyed  moderate  weather; 
and  hence  the  capricious  and  turbulent  ge- 
nius of  thefe  feas. 

Confidered  in  their  abrupt  operation,  I 
difcovered  fome  analogy  between  the  winds 
in  thefe  latitudes,  and  in  the  feas  of  Siberia 
and  Nova  Zembla,  where  ftorm  s  and  inter- 
vals of  fine  weather  follow  in  a  fucceffion 
furprifingly  rapid.  The  latitudes  v/hich  I 
now  compare  are  no  doubt  much  higher  in 
the  north  feas  than  in  the  fouth,  Hill,  how- 
ever, a  comparifon  may  be  made  be- 
tween them,  fince  in  fimilar  latitudes  the 
fea  is  much  more  rough  and  tsmpefluous  in 
the  fouthern  than  in  the  northern  hemi- 
fphere.  This  peculiar  violence  of  the  foutît 
feas  I  am  inclined  to  attribute  to  their  amaz- 

G  2  ing 


S4        VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 

ing  extent.  They  flow  from  eaft  to  wefl 
without  any  material  interruption,  if  we  ex- 
cept the  points  of  South- America  and  New 
Zeland,  Hmits  which  include  a  fpace  equal 
to  two  thirds  of  the  globe.  But  be  this  as 
it  may,  nature,  I  afn  convinced,  condudls 
herfelf,  in  all  cafes,  according  to  fixed  and 
certain  rules  ;  and  if,  on  fome  occafions, 
fhe  ihould  feem  to  ad:  anomoloufly  or  from 
caprice,  fuch  appearances  are  to  be  imputed 
to  the  weaknefs  of  our  limited  capacities, 
which  are  unable  to  colled:  from  a  very  par- 
tial furvey  of  the  different  parts  the  unity  and 
confiftency  of  the  whole. 

The  1 6  th  the  wind  changed  from  the 
north  eafl;  to  the  north  weft  ;  on  the  follow- 
ing day  it  blew  frefh,  accompanied  during 
the  night  with  fnow  and  hail. 


CHAP. 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.       85 


CHAP.      X. 

'The  Vejfcls  quit  iheir  Difcoveries,  and  fail  for 
Madagafcar — Sudden  Tranfition  from  fe- 
vere  Cold,  to  fme  temperate  weather — An- 
chorage in  the  Bay  of  Antongil,  where  the 
Sick  are  refrejiocd — Dfcription  of  the  if  and 
of  Madagafcar — The  Author,  defirous 
to  inform,  himfef  of  the  natural  Hifory  of 
^he  Ifland,  and  the  Manners  and  Ciijhms 
of  the  Inhabitants,  embarks  in  a  Canoe, 
and  lands  near  a  f mall  Village, 

N  the  1 8  th  we  quitted  our  cruize,  which 
from  the  extreme  caution  of  the  com- 
mander we  had  continued  without  any 
voluntary  deviation  for  the  fpace  of  thirty 
five  days.  We  now  fet  fail  for  the  Ifland 
of  Madagafcar,  ftanding  northward  with 
weft  and  weft  fouth  weft  winds. 

We  foon  perceived  an  agreeable  mitigation 
in  the  Severity  of  the  atmofphere  ;  half  the 
men  neceftary  two  days  before  to  hoi  ft  a 
fail  from  the  thawed  and  flexible  condition 
of  the  rigging,  were  now  fully  equal  to 
G  3  the 


86      VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 

the  tafk.  The  thermometer  in  my  cabin 
flood  after  fun  fet  at  nine  degrees  ;  and  rofe 
in  the  open  air  to  eleven  ;  but  it  was  then 
expofed  to  a  wind  blowing  from  the  quarter 
of  the  fouth.  Some  of  the  crew  fuffered 
from  collicky  pains  and  extreme  lalTitude, 
owing  perhaps  to  the  quick  tranlition  from, 
a  cold  to  a  milder  climate  ;  but  the  fcurvy 
foon  manifefled  itfelf,  which  was  a  more  for- 
midable enemy. 

From  the  7  th  to  the  9  th  we  had  been 
at  much  pains  to  difcover,  though  without 
fuccefs,  the  Ifland  of  St.  John  de  Lifboa, 
■which  i$  laid  down  in  latitude  25°.  and  lon- 
gitude 55°. 

On  the  nth  we  began  to  encounter  the 
florms  ai^d  rains  then  prevalent  on  the  coafl 
of  Madagâfcar. 

The  17th  we  difcovered  the  coaft  of  St. 
Mary's  Ifland,  and  foon  after  that  of  Madaga- 
fcar;  and  on  the  2 1  ft  dropped  anchor  in  An- 
tongil  bay,  clofe  to  a  creek  in  the  Ifland  of 
Marrofle.  On  this  little  ifland  we  .ereded 
tents  for  the  accommodation  of  fuch  as  were 
ill  of  the  fcurvy.  From  the  woods  we  had 
plenty  of  lemons  and  pine  apples,  with  an 

ample 


VOYAGE   TO   THE   SOUTH   POLE.       87 

ample  fupply  of  fruit,  fowls,  and  frefh  meat, 
from  the  Indian  villages,  whence  our  fick  de- 
rived the  agreeable  profpeâ:  Ol  a  fpeedy 
recovery. 

The  Ifland  of  Madagafcar  is  about  nine 
hundred  miles  in  length,  and  one  hundred 
in  breadth,  and,  next  to  Borneo,  is  the  mofl 
extenfive  in  the  world.  As  it  extends  from 
the  12^.  to  the  26*^.  of  latitude,  it  is  favoured 
v/ith  a  mild  and  agreeable  climate,  The 
foil  is  of  amazing  fertility;  travellers,  and 
efpecially  botanifls  who  profefs  to  be  accu- 
rate obfcrvers  of  nature,  maintain  with  a 
kind  of  enthufiafm  that  (lie  no  where  laviilies 
her  bounty  with  equal  prodigality  as  in  this 
ifland.  Here  fhe  indulges  in  a  peculiar 
difplay  of  vigorous  and  multifarious  vegeta- 
tion. The  country  from  its  vaft  extent, 
fouth  and  north,  includes  various  modifi- 
cations of  climate,  and  rears  the  productions 
of  the  regions  fituated  in  the  higher  latitudes 
as  well  as  of  thofe  placed  between  the  Tropics. 
The  parts  lying  towards  the  north  feem  fome- 
what  analogous  in  foil  and  climate  to  the  iiles 
of  the  Chinefe  Archipelago  ;  and  in  thefe  I 
have  no  doubt  fpices  might  be  cultivated  with 
G   4  advantage. 


88       VOYAGE  TO  THE   SOUTH   POLE. 

advantage.  The  fruit  Rabinftira  is  common 
in  the  woods  ;  a  fubftance  which  unites  in 
it  the  quaUties  of  cloves,  cinnamon,  and 
nutmeg,  and  when  gathered  a  httle  before 
it  arrives  at  full  maturity  is  capable  of  fup- 
plying  the  place  of  thofe  fpices.  The  num- 
ber of  rivers  in  Madagafcar,  the  fuperior 
quality  of  the  cattle  and  poultry,  the  great 
abundance  of  corn,  indigo,  and  fugar,  with 
many  other  valuable  produdions,  all  concur 
in  attefting  the  luxuriant  fertility  of  the 
foil. 

The  travellers  who  firll  vilited  this 
country,  imagined  that  it  contained  mines  of 
eold  and  filver,  an  idea  ftill  maintained 
by  fome  perfons,  though  in  my  opinion  with 
few  or  no  reafons  to  fupport  it.  I  found 
in  the  courfe  of  my  refearches  rock  cryftal, 
the  fpecimens  of  which  were  eighteen  in- 
ches in  length,  and  from  five  to  fix  in 
diameter.  I  faw  likevvife  pieces  of  Mar- 
cafute,  which  might  have  been  miftaken  for 
the  ores  of  the  precious  metals. 

But  my  chief  objedl  in  this  iflaiid  v/as  to 
fliudy  the  manners  and  principles  of  action  in 
the  people,  v^hofe  great  population  and  origi- 
nal 


VOYAGE   TO  THE   SOUTH   POLE.       89 

iial  fettlement,  probably  extremely  ancient, 
feemed  to  militate  with  the  notion  of  finding 
limpiicitv  of  character  in  their  prefent  cir- 
cumftances.  Some  faint  traces  of  religion, 
much  fuperfirition,  no  pubHc  mode  of  religi- 
ous worfhip,  gleams  of  goodnefs,  alternat» 
examples  of  cowardice  and  courage,  a  ftrong 
propenfity  to  fufpicion,  the  ufual  mark  of 
treachery;  ufagesin  (liort  in  flat  contradiction 
to  every  thing  like  delicacy  of  fentiment, 
and  good  morals  among  other  men,  are  par- 
ticulars, which,  if  true,  well  deferve  fome 
inveftigation . 

The  little  illand  of  MarroiTe  did  not  ef- 
cape  my  notice;  but  the  iiihabitants,  who 
are  few,  invited  by  the  fociety  of  ftrangers, 
having,  for  the  greateft  part  withdrawn  to 
the  main  land  ;  it  was  by  no  means  in  con- 
dition to  gratify  my  curiolity.  I  imitated 
their  example,  and  went  to  relide  in  a  village 
adjacent  to  the  harbour;  but  as  it  was  occu- 
pied by  a  kind  of  military  colony,  which 
had  arrived  from  Europe  a  few  days 
before  us  :  fuch  a  mixture  of  natives  and 
foreigners  feemed  little  calculated  to  pro- 
mote my  views.     I  now  fell  in  with  fome 

men 


go        VOYAGE    TO    THE   SOUTH   POLE. 

men  who  had  been  fent  to  buy  provifions 
in  a  diflant  village,  when,  learning  that  it 
was  entirely  free  from  the  coinpany  of 
Europeans,  I  made  choice  of  it  for  the  place 
of  my  refidence,  and  departed.  My  eager- 
nefs  however  to  profit  of  a  fniall  canoe, 
which  was  juil  returning  thither,  had  nearly 
put  ^n  end  to  all  my  enquiries;  after  doub- 
ling the  Ifland  of  MarrolTe,  the  wind  frefh- 
ened,  and  our  little  paltry  boat,  not  exceed- 
ing two  feet  in  breadth,  was  unable  to  cope 
with  a  high  fwell  which  fuddenhy  arofe  in 
the  fea.  The  water  poured  into  her  on  all 
fides,  and  as  there  were  only  three  perfons 
in  number,  we  were  unable  to  row  and  bail 
the  boat  at  the  fame  time;  fortunately  I  ob- 
ferved  that  the  coafi:  directly  oppofite  con- 
ûfled  of  a  fandy  foil,  whilfl  a  little  further 
on  it  prefented  a  rocky  and  dangerous  iliore. 
Not  a  moment  was  to  be  loft;  we  inftantly 
put  in  for  land,  and  going  right  before  the 
wind  v/e  approached  it  with  great  celerity. 
Still  however  as  the  furf  broke  upon  the 
beach  with  great  violence,  I  could  think 
of  no  expedient,  by  whieh,  the  boat  might  be 
kept  above  water,  but  that  of  hoifiing  a  fail; 
6  the 


VOYAGE   TO  THE  SOUTH   POLE.       91 

the  experiment  fucceeded  to  our  wiih,  and 
running  a  confiderable  diftance  on  iliore, 
we  efcaped  without  any  greater  misfortune 
than  that  of  feveral  waves  paffing  over  our 
heads,  and  drenching  us  to  the  fkin.  A 
number  of  Indians  were  flanding  on  the 
beach,  who  had  come  about  a  quarter  of 
a  league  to  invite  me  to  pafs  the  night  in 
their  village.  They  offered  me  their  fer- 
vices  in  tranfporting  my  baggage,  and 
feemed  forward  to  fliev/  me  every  m.ark  of 
kindnefs.  Meanwhile  I  could  not  help 
obferving,  that  the  part  of  my  things  they 
took  up  with  the  greatefl  alacrity,  was  a 
bafket,  containing  fome  bread  and  bottles  of 
wine. 


CHAP. 


92       VOYAGE   TO  THE   SOUTH   POLE. 

CHAP.      XL 

^he  Author  njifiis  the  Chief  of  the  Village^ 
from  "whom  he fnds  a  mojl  cordial-  reception 
■-r-He  makes  a?2  ILxcurJion  to  another  Vil- 
lage, where  he  meets  with  two  Incidents, 
which  ferve  to  Jhow  the  felfijh  Difpofition 
and  Cunning  of  the  Natives^ 

N  our  arrival  at  the  village,  I  was 
conducted  to  the  manlion  of  the 
Chief,  Vvho  faluted  me  with  much  civility, 
and  foon  after  defired  I  fhould  be  fhewn 
to  an  apartment,  which  was  ready  with 
a  fine  for  my  accommodation.  The 
iloor  was  covered  with  a  mat,  and  above 
it,  towards  the  top  of  the  chamber,  was 
a  rich  carpet.  I  was  followed  into  my  bcd- 
jfoom  by  a  croud  of  Indians,  who  behaved 
refpeafully  ^  though  they  put  many  quef- 
tions  to  my  conduâior,  and  made  it  a 
very  late  hour  before  it  pleafed  them  to 
withdraw.  After  they  had  been  regaled 
with  bread  and  wine,  they  were  fucceedect 
by  the  ladies,  but  in  a  ûrsaller  number  ; 
and  they  all  retired  foon,    except  two  or 

tliree 


VOYAGE   TO   THE   SOUTH   POLE.       93 

three  who  had  no  fcruple  to  honour  me 
v/ith  their  company  as  long  as  I  thought  it 
agreeable.  I  now  recolledted  the  relations 
of  travellers  reipeâ:ing  the  good  nature  of 
the  fex  in  the  iland  of  Madagafcar,  and 
began  to  be  of  opinion,  that  fuch  tales 
were  not  wholly  void  of  foundation.  I 
was  at  length  left  by  myfelf,  though  not  till 
the  night  was  confiderably  advanced. 

In  the  morning  I  received  an  early  and 
obliging  mefTage  from  the  chief,  inviting  me 
to  alTifl:  in  drinking  Toe.*  Upon  entering  an 
afTembly  of  about  a  hundred  and  fifty  of 
his  vaflals,  he  made  me  fet  by  him  at  the 
upper  end  of  the  room,  while  the  refl:  of  the 
company  remained  on  tlieir  legs.  There 
was  prefently  introduced  and  diflributed 
amongft  the  guefls  a  fpecies  of  liquor  con- 
fiding of  the  juice  of  the  fugar  cane,  fer- 
mented with  myrtle  and  muftard;  I  drank  to 
the  health  of  the  Chief,  and  after  attending 
his  levee  upwards  of  two  hours,  and  receiv- 
ing from  him  a  thoufand  kind  attentions, 
I  took  the  liberty  to  withdraw. 

A  few  hours  afterwards  I  had  a  fécond 
tneiTage,   with  an  invitation  to  dinner;   at 

*  Named  by  the  Englifti  a  Tofter. 

this 


94      VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 

this  meal  he  was  attended  only  by  his 
own  family;  the  women  took  their 
places  at  our  backs,  and  performed  every 
office  of  m.enial  fervice.  Our  board  was 
furnifhed  with  plenty  of  rice,  piled  upon  fig- 
îeaves,  and  garnifhed  with  pieces  of  fifh  and 
fowl,  which  were  dreiTed  with  different 
forts  of  herbs.  Figleaves  were  fubflituted 
likewife  for  plates  and  fpoons  ;  each  fpoonful 
of  rice  was  moiflened  with  fifh  broth  before 
it  was  carried  to  the  mouth  ;  and  this  diftri- 
bution  of  fauce  was  the  care  of  the  Chiefs 
daughters;  for  it  feemed  to  be  the  depart- 
ment of  his  wife  to  ferve  up  frefh  fupplies 
of  rice  and  fowl  as  occafion  might  require.  I 
ordered  in  fome  of  my  wine  and  our  entertain- 
ment became  tolerably  gay.  I  now  withdrew  to 
my  apartment  and  after  a  fmall  interval  fent 
the  chief  an  invitation  to  tafle  another  bot- 
tle of  my  wine.  I  was  immediately  honour- 
ed with  his  company,  and  at  the  concluiion 
of  his  vifit  prefented  him  with  a  few  bottles. 
The  weather  having  fei  m  fine  I  took  leave 
of  my  hod,  after  engaging  him  to  come  on 
board,  where  I  affured  him  he  fliould  be 
received  in  the  beil  manner.  I  gratified  his 
wife  and  daughters  with  fome  large  needles, 

and 


VOYAGE   TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.       95 

and  we  parted  on  the  moft  friendly  terms. 
A  number  of  Indians,  charging  themfelves 
with  my  baggage,  followed  me  to  the  boat, 
and  after  acknowledging  their  fervices  by  a 
prefent  of  needles,  I  proceeded  on  my  ex- 
curlion. 

In  the  evening  I  arrived  at  a  village,  called 
Mahanlevoii,  where  I  propofed  to  refide  for 
fome  time.  It  has  an  agreeable  fituation, 
being  placed  about  a  gun  lliot  from  theihore, 
on  a  fmall  river,  whofe  banks,  though  not 
extenfive,  are  pleafantly  diverfified  with  tufts 
of  wood  and  meadow  ground.  The  village 
is  completely  infulated  at  high  water,  by  a 
little  canal  in  the  fand.  The  houfes, 
though  at  no  great  diflance  from  one  another, 
leave  intermediate  fpaces,  prefenting  the 
fweet  verdure  of  various  trees  and  vegetables. 
The  population  of  the  village  is  conliderable, 
though  at  this  time  the  people  were  generally 
fcattered  over  the  country,  being  employed 
in  the  culture  of  their  rice  fields. 

An  incident  occurred  the  day  after  I  came 
to  the  village,  which  began  to  throw  fome 
light  on  the  charadier  of  the  natives.  A 
Frenchman,  who  had  lived  in  a  ftate  of  in- 
timacy with  a  daughter  of  the  chief,  for  rea- 

fons 


^6       VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 

fons  I  could  not  leafn,  defifled  fomewhat 
abruptly  from  paying  her  his  ufaal  court. 
I  mufl  obferve,  that  it  v/as  cuftomary  with 
the  chief  never  finally  to  conclude  the  fale 
of  his  bullocks,  until  the  fhallop  appeared 
vt^hich  was  to  carry  them  away.  The  flial- 
lop  now  made  its  appearance,  but  the  Chief 
would  lillen  to  no  terms  whatever,  unlefs  it 
was  previoufly  ftipulated,  that  the  French- 
man fhould  immediately  return  to  his  mif- 
trefs,  and  behave  to  her  with  his  former 
kindnefs. 

A  propoiltion  fo  little  cxpedied,  could 
not  fail  to  excite  my  furprife,  which  was  by 
no  means  diminillied  when  I  faw  the  Chief's 
requifition  treated  as  an  objeâ;  of  grave  de- 
liberation in  an  aifembly  of  the  principal 
inhabitants.  From  the  fequel  of  the  bufi- 
nefs  however,  I  had  fufficient  reafon  to  be  fa- 
tisfied  that  a  principle  of  interefted  policy 
was  at  the  bottom  of  this  extraordinary  be- 
haviour ^  in  Ihort,  that  the  Chief's  charge 
againft  my  countryman  was  only  a  mer- 
cenary pretext,  employed  to  extort  from  him 
fome  additional  prefents.  Next  day  one  of 
our  people,  deliring  to  frighten  away  fome 
children  who  teafed  him  vàth  their  petu- 
lance. 


VOVAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE*        97 

lance,     threw   at  them   a   piece   of  wood, 
which  unluckily  ftruck  the  head   of  a  boy 
belonging  to  the  Chief.     The  Chief,  with- 
out difcovering  the    fmalleft   fymptom    of 
palTion  or  refentment  againfl   the  offender, 
fent  his    fon,  defiring  we  would   drefs  his 
wound  :    which  was  done   by  wrapping  a 
bandage    of    linen    cloth    round  his    head. 
When    the   boy  appeared,    however,    with 
his  head  tied  up  with  a  bandage  of  little  va- 
lue, the  parent  was  unable  to  conceal  his  an- 
crer.   Thus  I  have  mentioned  fome  iltuations 
in  which   they  appeared  to  me  to  be  felfidi 
and  deligning,  whilft  at  the  fame  time  I  will 
do  them  the  juftice  to  relate,  that  in  receiving 
the  trifling  prefents   which  they  either  fo- 
licited  or  expecfled  from  our  generolity,    I 
could  not    obferve  the  fmalleil    appearance 
of   rapacity.     They   are  upon    the    whole 
frank  and  open  in  their  dealings,  difpofe  of 
their  goods  on  moderate  terms,  and  are  not 
accufed  of  ever  departing  from  any  part  of 
their  engagements. 

In  the  fame  manner  I  might  have  mifta- 
ken  the  charader  of  this  people,  had  I  only 
attended  to  their  behaviour  as  it  regarded 
ilrangers  -,    for  1  am  convinced  that  a  felfiih 

Vol.  II L  H  fpirit 


98         VOYAGE   TO   THE   SOUTH   POLE. 

fpirit  exerts  itfelf  towards  all  perfons  poUelTed 
of  fuch  articles  as  can  admini/ter  either  to 
their  comfort  or  pleafure.     But  havin"^  faid 
this,   I  am  not  at  liberty  to  add,   that  the 
fame   principle   has    place   in  their    inter- 
courfe  as  neighbours  and  friends.    They  vifit 
and  pafs  fome  time  at  the  houfes  of  their 
acquaintances  ;    and    feem  without  any  il- 
liberal  motive    mutually    ufeful     to    each 
other  in  their  daily  occupations.     If  one  of 
them  is  in  want  of  rice,  he  goes  without  re- 
ferve  to  find  a  fupply  of  it  at  the  houfc  of  his 
neighbour  ;     if  a   family    moves    into    the 
country,  in  their  abfence,   their  houfe  and 
canoe  are  at  the  fervice  of  any  acquaintance 
in  the  village  j  circumlfances  which  plainly 
exhibit  naturally  kind   and  benevolent   dif- 
pofitions.      I   had   the  pleafure  to   receive 
from   them  various  little  prefents,  and  I  al- 
ways found  that  a  pair  of  fciiHirs,  a  few 
needles,  or  a  little  brandy,  gave  ample  fatis- 
fadion,    and    were  regarded  as   more  than 
an  equivalent  for  what  they  had  given  me. 
I  was  not  employed  in  the  purchafes    v/e 
made  of  provifions  for   the  ihip,   and   on 
that  account,  was  confidered,  I  believe,  as  a 

difinterefled  flranger. 

CHAP. 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.        9^ 

CHAP.     XIL 

parrel  between  the  Governor  cf  the  French 
Colony,  newly  fettled  at  Mad&gafcar,  and 
one  of  the  Native  Chiefs — the  Laws  of 
Hofpitality  are  inviolably  preferved  by  the 
Author  s  Hojl — A  Village  is  burned,  and 
feveral  of  the  Natives  killed  by  the  Euro^ 
peans» 

I  Had  been  but  a  few  days  at  tbis  place, 
when  the  Governor  of  the  new  colony,- 
fettled  five  leagues  from  Mahanlevou,  quar- 
relling with  a  Chief  of  confequence  in  the 
iiland,  rafhly  gave  orders  to  fire  upon  him  j 
an  infult  which  the  Indian  retorted  with  be- 
coming dignity  and  fpirit.  Theiè  a<5ls  of 
hoftility  fpread  a  general  alarm  over  the 
country,  and  the  Chief  of  our  village,  col- 
leding  his  followers,  prepared  to  ftand  on 
his  defence.  Being  only  four  ftrangers  ail 
this  plac«,  we,  in  our  turn,  judged  it  but 
prudent  to  be  prepared,  and,  therefore,  be-s- 
fides  our  fmall  arms,  loaded  a  fwivel,  which 
hy  fome  accident  had  been  brought  on 
H  2  ihoré. 


lOO       VOYAGE   TO  THE   SOUTH   POLE. 

fhore.  Our  alarm  did  not  efcape  the  vigî« 
lance  of  one  of  the  Chief's  daughters,  who 
communicating  her  fufpicion  to  hei  father, 
he  immediately  ftepped  forward  to  remove 
our  fears,  and  exprefs  his  concern  for  the 
prefent  interruption  of  public  tranquillity, 
alluring  us  at  the  fame  time,  that  in  the 
charaâ:er  of  his  guefts  v/e  had  nothing  to 
apprehend ,  either  from  him  or  the  enemies 
of  the  French.  He  added,  however,  that 
fliould  this  unhappy  difpute  admit  of  na 
amicable  compromife,  as  it  was  not  impro- 
bable we  might  be  inclined  to  take  part 
with  the  French  planters,  fo  he,  in  like 
manner,  might  find  himfelf  obliged  to  efpoufe 
the  caufe  of  his  countrymen  ;  but  that  in 
the  meantime  it  was  his  intention  to  remain 
neuter,  though  in  a  flate  of  defence.  He 
concluded,  that,  whatever  might  happen,  we 
fhould  be  treated  and  efteemed  as  his  friends 
and  allies,  as  long  as  we  chofe  to  live  under 
his  roof. 

The  village  of  Mahanlevou  was  now  no 
•longer  the  peaceful  and  agreeable  retreat  we 
had  found  it;  all  was  clamour  and  confu- 
fion:  guards  polled  at  regular  diflances;  pa- 

troles 


VOYAGE   TO  THE   SOUTH   POLE,        ICI 

troles  on  the  roads  ;  fpies  pafiing  and  re- 
paffing  on  both  (idcsi  labourers  bufy  in 
throwing  up  works  around  the  fort;  women, 
children,  and  herds  of  cattle  removing  into 
the  interior  parts  of  the  country;  were  pre- 
fages  of  an  approaching  war,  whilfl  amidfl 
thofe  warlike  preparations  all  focial  inter- 
courfe  was  completely  fufpended.  I  had 
no  choice  but  to  return  to  the  fhip,  and 
therefore  my  viiit  to  Mahanlevou  was  un- 
fortunately limited  to  twelve  days. 

The  exifling  breach  was  not  to  be  healed 
by  the  lenient  hand  of  négociation,  and  no- 
thing lefs  than  an  appeal  to  arms  would  fa- 
tisfy  the  governor.  Having  refoived  to 
feize  the  perfon  of  the  Indian  Chief,  or  if 
he  fliould  happen  to  make  his  efcape,  to 
burn  his  village,  he  required  that  we  fliould 
arm,  and  lend  him  our  fhallop  to  fécond  his 
enterprife,  a  requifition  which  we  did  not 
think  ourfelves  at  liberty  to  rcfufe.  But, 
alas  !  what  a  fad  violation  of  every  tie  of 
focial  convention  !  we  were  now  going  in 
cool  blood  to  carry  fire  and  fword  againil  a 
man,  with  whom  we  had  formerly  ex- 
changed prefents,  and  every  token  of  a 
H  3  covenanted 


Î02       VOYAGE   TO   THE   SOUTH   POLE. 

covenanted  alliance;  and  who,  but  a  few 
days  before,  attended  by  his  wives  and  daugh- 
ters, had  made  us  a  vifit  of  confidence  and 
affediion.  I  own  I  could  not  figure  to  my- 
felf  the  open  and  manly  afpeâ:  of  this  Indian 
Chief,  the  unafFecfted  and  gentle  demeanor 
of  his  women,  with  an  innocent  and  infant 
offspring,  all  doomed  to  the  flames,  or  to 
expire  under  thofe  very  hands  which  had  fo 
lately  received  their  careffes,  without  being 
imprejjed  with  fentiments  of  horror.  It 
is  impoffible  to  exprefs  the  indignation  I  felt 
at  the  conduct  of  the  governor.  A  man 
but  juil  emerged  from  obfcure  life  to  a  re- 
fponfible  fituation,  and  who  yet  had  the  pre- 
sumption to  proftitute  the  blood  of  two 
nations  to  gratify  a  perfonal  animofity  ^  a  man 
who,  uncandid  enough  to  admit  of  no  com- 
petition between  his  rights  and  thofe  of 
another  perfon,  did  not  fcrupie  to  difgrace 
the  hunour  and  juftice  of  his  country  by 
the  perpetration  of  the  bafefl  crimes.  Were 
the  Governor  of  a  diflant  fettlement  modeftly 
to  confider  how  little  in  the  eye  of  general, 
juflice  he  may  differ  from  a  Freebooter  or 
Pirate,  he  would  have  fomiC  forbearance 
with  the  ancient  inhabitants  of  a  country. 


VOYAGE   TO  THE   SOUTH  POLE.        iO^ 

He  would  be  more  careful  to  abftain  from 
every  -dàt  of  injuftice  and  oppreflion;  he 
would  t:ike  up  arms  with  reludiance, 
and  ufe  them  v/ith  moderation;  or,  if  urged 
by  the  neceffity  of  the  cafe,  and  the  duty  he 
owes  his  country,  he  iliould  reduce  the 
natives  to  a  (late  of  fervile  obedience,  flill 
it  (hould  be  expedled,  that  his  humanity, 
feeling  their  misfortune,  would  gladly  gar- 
nifh  the  yoke  witii  iiowers,  that  it  might 
fit  li^rht  on  the  gilled  and  degraded 
necks  of  the  vanquiihed. 

It  was  With  unfpeakable  faîisfaétion  that 
I  foup.d  I  fjiould  have  no  Ihare  in  the 
campaign  againft  the  natives.  It  is  indeed 
the  duty  of  a  military  man  to  meet  danger 
in  the  caufe  of  his  country,  and  to  defeat 
all  fuch  criminal  defigns  as  may  tend  to 
diflurb  or  fubvert  the  public  peace  and  fe- 
curity;  but  I  hope  this  does  not  imply  the 
tacit  dereliction  of  chara<5ler  as  amoral  agent, 
or,  in  other  words,  theabfolute  barter,  and 
alienation  of  reafon,  life,  and  liberty. 

But  fuch  ad:s  of  enormity  or  incapacity  in  a 
Governor,  have  a  tendency  to  betray  theyoung 
and  unthinking  part  of  the  fervice  into  crimes 

H  4  Qf 


Ï04»      VOYAGE   TO  THE   SOUTH   POLE. 

of  the  iirfl  magnitude;  of  v/hich  the  preferit; 
difpute  furnifheda  very  melancholy  example. 
It  was  in  the  charad:er  of  a  young  officer 
of  undoubted  courage;  but  who  from  the 
Governor's  mifconducft,  and  his  own  indif- 
cretion,  was  involved  in  fuch  a  fcene  of 
iniquity  as  muft  have  imbittered  his  mind 
with  fhame  and  remorie  to  the  lateft  period 
of  his  life.  He  had  lived,  fince  his  arri- 
val, with  the  unfortunate  Chief,  who  was 
BOW  to  become  the  vid:im  of  the  Governor's 
refentment,  and  had  received  under  his 
roof  every  mark  of  confidence  and  hofpi- 
tality.  In  the  intercourfe  of  domeftic  life, 
he  tafted  the  pleafures  of  love  blended  with 
the  moft  genuine  fentiments  of  friendfliip; 
a  flate  of  happinefs  he  had  continued  to 
enjoy  for  fome  time,  having  only  joined 
his  companions  two  days  before.  But 
viewing  the  prefent  as  an  excellent  oppor- 
tunity for  difplaying  the  genius  and  talents 
of  the  foldier,  all  the  endearing  ties  of 
love  and  hofpitality  were  diifolved  in  a 
moment.  He  even  availed  himfelf  of  a 
local  knowledge  of  the  country,  and  con- 
duced his  men  by  intricate  paths,   known 

only 


VOYAGE   TO  THE   SOUTH   POLE.        IO5 

only  to  himfclf,  to  inveft  the  manfion  of 
his  benefadior.  Falfe  and  miftaken  notions 
of  honour  feemed  to  have  obliterated  in  his 
mind,  not  only  the  facred  obligations  of 
gratitude,  but  every  tender  fcntiment 
due  to  his  miflrefs.  Probably  he  never 
once  dreamed  that  he  was  about  to  ad:  the 
part  of  a  monfter,  who  not  contented  with 
the  lives  of  thofe  v^^ho  had  lately  taken  him 
to  their  bofoms,  was  determined  that  one 
drop  of  blood  in  the  whole  family  fliould 
not  efcape  the  brutality  of  himfelf  and  his 
affociates. 

The  village  and  fort  of  the  Chief  were 
fpeedily  reduced  to  afhes;  but  the  inhabi- 
tants, getting  notice  by  their  fpies  of  the 
approach  of  the  enemy,  had  taken  flielter 
in  the  woods.  A  few  infirm  women,  who, 
unable  to  efcape  by  flight,  were  endeavouring 
to  hide  themfelves  in  the  buflies,  fell 
into  their  hands;  captives  who  owed  to 
the  depredations  of  old  age  an  exemption 
from  the  miferies  of  perpetual  flavery.  The 
troops  returned  to  the  governor  in  all  the 
exultation  of  triumph,  and  prefented  him 
with  a  few    articles  of    Indian  furnitur£; 

fpoils 


106         VOYAGE   TO   THE    SOUTH  POLE. 

fpoils  but  little  formed  to  grace  the  arms, 
or  gratify  the  avarice  of  his  dependents.  In 
what  manner  thefe  hoiliHties  finally  termi- 
nated I  am  ignorant  ;  but  certainly  they 
refledled  no  credit  on  our  national  character 
in  the  minds  of  the  natives  ;  a  people  who 
î  confefs,  began  to  intsreft  m.e  much  in 
their  happinefs  and  profperity. 


CHAP.       XHL 

DJJîhîSlîoiî  betwixt  the  Aborigines  of  the  IJlan'd 
of  Madagafcar^  and  the  adventitious  Indian. 
Settlers— CharaSl'eriflics  and  Drefs  of  the 
former- — 'Their  Hujhandry — Their  Religious 
JVorJîjip— Cautions  to  Europeans,  whofx 
their  Abode  on  this  Jfaiid. 

ROM  the  hair,  complexion,  and  make 
of  the  natives,  I  conceive  them  to  be 
defcended  from  diltercn  traces  of  men.  Some^ 
are  fliort  and  remarkably  thick  fet  in  their 
perfons,  v/ith  lank,  fmooth  hair,  and  an  olive 
tcMnplexion  :  they  have  a  ftrong  refemblance 

the 


VOYAGE   TO   THE   SOUTH    POLE.        I07 

to  the  Malay  Indians;  nor  indeed  do  I  re- 
gard them  as  originally  {prang  from  the 
Aborigines  of  Madagafcar.  Some  are  tall 
and  well  proportioned;  have  crifped  locks^ 
large  and  beautiful  eyes,  an  eafy  carriage, 
and  an  open  and  unreferved  countenance  ; 
and  this  cl;ifs  I  ihould  efteem  the  true  pof- 
terity  of  the  primitive  inhabitants;  their 
colour  is  nearly  black,  and  differs  but  little 
from  that  of  the  natives  on  the  Malabar 
Coaft. 

In  their  difpofition  they  are  lively  and 
obliging,  but  wholly  deflitute  of  genius  ; 
vain,  whimfical,  interefted  ;  dexterous  int 
the  ufe  and  application  of  their  bodily  fa- 
culties ;  but  without  the  powers  of  combi- 
nation, and  in  the  general  condud:  of  life, 
light,  precipitate,  and  incapable  of  profecu- 
ting  in  their  minds  any  thing  like  principle 
or  fyftem.  They  feem  to  have  no  title  to 
what  we  call  a  decided  character;  good 
qualities  they  certainly  poiTefs  as  well  as 
bad  and  hence  I  would  clafs  them  with 
that  defcription  of  men,  who,  though  of  a 
weak  mind,  are  yet  found  to  inherit  a  con- 
fjderable  portion  of  wit  and  vivacity.     But 

as 


Io8        VOYAGE   TO  THE  SOUTH   POLE. 

as  they  have  few  wants  to  be  fûppHed,  and 
fevrer  diflind:ions  to  promote  rivalHiip,  or 
fentiments  of  emulation,  their  weakneiTes 
are  rarely  felt;  while  their  virtues  are  of  daily 
ufe,  and  operate  habitua  lly  in  the  ordinary 
commerce  of  life.  In  emergencies,  I  mean 
fituations  of  public  danger,  they  might  be 
miftaken  for  a  people  coUedied,.  fyftematic, 
and  brave;  but  the  refult  of  their  condudt 
«ever  correfponds  to  thcfe  pretenfions,  unlefs 
the  danger  is  of  the  greateft  urgency,  and 
rec^uires  to  be  repelled  with  the  utmofl 
promptitude. 

They  wear  an  apron  a:t  the  girdle,  and 
fbmething  of  the  fame  kind  on  the  ihoulders, 
with  a  bonnet  conftrudted  like  an  umbrella. 
The  hair  is  combed  into  fmall  trèfles,  and 
the  beard  is  permitted  to  grow  only  on  the 
chin. 

The  men  are  little  addided  to  agriculture, 
and  are  more  inclined  to  look  after  their 
cattle,  v^hich  roam  in  the  woods.  They 
conftruâ:  war  canoes,  as  well  as  canoes  for 
the  ordinary  buiinefs  of  life.  The  latter 
are  very  fmall,  and  navigated  only  with  the 
oar;  but  the  former,  which  are  the  pro- 
perty 


VOYAGE   TO  THE   SOUTH   POLE.         IO9 

perty  of  the  Chief,  are  much  larger,  and  have 
a  fort  of  rigging.  Some  of  them  carry  a 
hundred  men,  and  are  in  condition  to  fail 
round  the  illand. 

The  women  have  expreffive  faces,  arc 
in  general  of  the  middle  fize,  though  many 
of  them  are  diminutively  fhort;  and  al- 
though I  faw  but  few  of  them  ugly,  I  cannot 
rank  them  either  with  the  handfome  or 
pretty  part  of  the  fex.  They  have  a 
long  apron  tied  round  the  waift,  with  a 
kind  of  underwaiftcoat,  v/hich  barely  co- 
vers the  breafts.  They  frequently  wear,  by 
way  of  ornament,  a  large  plate  of  filver,  of  a 
circular  form,  and  furprifmgly  well  manu- 
fad:ured.  A  number  of  fmall  filver  chains 
are  thrown  round  the  neck,  and  fall  down 
upon  the  bofom.  The  hair  appears  in  a 
multitude  of  little  treifes,  dangling  over 
the  forehead,  or  on  the  corner  of  the 
eye  ;  or  turned  up  in  the  form  of  a  crefcent, 
or  perhaps  à  la  grecque,  according  to  the 
particular  fancy,  or  taile  of  the  indivi- 
dual. 

The  women  befides  cultivating  fields  of 

rice,  corn,   and   other   forts  of  grain,   are 

J  employed 


ÎÎO         VOYAGE    TO   THÉ  SOUTH   POlÈj 

employed  in  planting  trees ànd  roots,  particu- 
larly the  cafTava,  or  Madagalcar  bread  tree,  po- 
fatoes,and  the  banana  or  plantain .  — The  leaves 
of  the  tree,  named  rafia,  by  a  particular  treat- 
ment, are  made  to  fupply  them  with  thread  j 
and  of  thefe  materials,   dyed  of  various  co- 
lours, they  manufacture  a  fpecies  of  cloth^ 
Woolly,  and  affords  a  very  handfome  article 
which   is   of  drefs.       They  are   capriciouà 
enough,  however,  to  give  a  preference  to  the 
cotton  fLuffs  imported  by  Europeans  fro.n  the 
continent,  though  of  lefs  value  than    their 
Own,     Every  family  is    provided    with     a 
loom,   and  carries  on  a  manufadiure    equal 
to  its   own  confumption.     From  the  leaves! 
of  a   tree,    named    vacoua,    they     procure 
materials  for   matts,     bonnets,     bags,    and 
other  ufeful  articles. 

Their  common  food  confifls  of  rice,  bana- 
nas, and  dried  fifli  ;  they  confume  very  little 
either  of  frefh  meat,  or  frefh  fifh  ;  their 
drink  is  rice  water,  or  the  juice  of  the 
fugar  cane,  fermented  with  pimento  and 
muflard. 

The  houfes  arc  fmall  and  in  a  very  aiik- 
^'ard  ftile  of  building»    The  walls  are  form-- 

ed 


VOYAGE   TO   THE   SOUTH   POLE.         Ill 

edof  bull-ruflies,  and  the  roof  covered  with 
pkintain  leaves.  The  principal  part  of  the 
timber  work,  con  lifts  of  malTy  pieces  of 
wood,  while  the  rcfl;  is  of  bamboo,  very 
rudely  and  clumiily  executed.  The  floor  is 
laid  with  the  pith  of  the  palm,  or  fome 
other  tree,  and  in  many  inftances  is  confi- 
derably  raifcd  above  the  level  of  the  ground, 
to  avoid  tli-e  exhalations  of  the  foil. 
Houfes  thus  conftructed,  befides  tending  to 
preferve  the  health  of  the  inhabitants,  ef- 
pecially  during  the  rainy  months,  guard 
them  from  the  annoyance  of  ferpents  and 
different  fpecies  of  infeds. 

Such  are  the  houfes  in  which  Europeans 
who  have  occalion  to  winter  in  this  idand, 
ought  to  reiide  ;  and  as  the  prefervation  of 
health,  in  a  country  often  fatal  to  the  Euro- 
pean conflitution,  is  a  matter  of  no  fmall 
importance,  they  would  do  well  to  fiibmit 
to  th  at  regmen  v/hich  feems  from  expe- 
rience beft  fuited  to  the  genius  of  the  cli- 
mate. Î  would  therefore  recommend  to 
tvcry  foreigner,  a  light  diet,  abftinence 
from  wine,  and  all  fermented  liquors  i 
Jittle  animal  food,  efpeeially  if  it  is  large 
2  and 


ÎÏ2        VOYAGE   TO   THE  SOUTH   POLE, 

and  of  a  coarfe  quality,  and  leafl  of  all  when 
it  is  faked.  I  would  advife  exercife  to  keep 
the  bowels  in  order,  as  well  as  for  preferving 
the  elafticity  and  tone  of  the  folids.  His 
drefs  fhould  be  light  and  cool,  and  he  need 
not  be  afraid  of  the  fun,  in  a  clear  atmof- 
phere,  provided  he  does  not  fit  or  ftand 
under  its  rays,  when  a  ftilnefs  in  the  air 
denotes  an  approaching  ftorm.  It  is  necef- 
fary  to  be  particularly  careful  to  avoid  wet 
or  damp  cloaths,  which  never  fail  to  affeét 
tht  whole  frame  with  chilnefs  ;  and  indeed 
if  an  European  is  caught  in  the  rain,  he 
cannot  do  better  than  ftrip  himfelf  im- 
mediately, keeping  his  clodths  from  the 
wet,  and  putting  them  on  dry,  when  the 
iliov/er  is  over.  He  fliould  likewife  avoid  im- 
moderate fatigue,  and  above  all,  every  fpe- 
cies  of  debauchery;  his  drink  ought  to  be 
clear  fpring  water  of  the  befl  quality;  for  rain 
water  here  is  to  be  avoided  if  poffible.  I 
obferved  this  method  of  living  myfelf  in  the 
ifland  of  Madagafcar,  and  found  it  falutary 
from  ex'^erience;  and  though  the  natives 
fuffer  little  but  from  cutaneous  diforders, 
Europeans,    during  the    rainy   feafon,    are 

liable 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.       ÎI3 

liable  fometimes  indeed  from  their  own. 
folly,  to  fevers  of  the  moil  malignant 
kind. 

Although,  as  I  have  before  obferved, 
the  natives  have  no  regular  form  of  reli- 
gious woriliip,  yet  they  adore  one  fupreme 
being,  as  the  Patron  of  juftite  and  good- 
nefs,  who  will  judge  men  after  death,  and 
reward  or  pu  nidi  them  according  to  the  merit 
or  demerit  cf  their  adicns .  The  rite  of  cir- 
cumcifion  is  performed  upon  males  be- 
tween the  fcventh  and  eighth  year 
cf  their  age;  unlefs  delayed  in  order  that 
the  company  may  be  more  numerous,  and 
the  ceremony  have  a  greater  degree  of  cele- 
brity. The  day  of  circumcifion  is  fo- 
lemnized  in  families  with  much  joy  and 
fejfiivity,  and  concludes  with  the  fmgular 
cuflom  of  firing  from  a  mu£I-i.et  the  forelldn 
of  the  patient. 

They  believe  alfo  in  a  devil  or  evil 
being;  and  upon  this  article  of  their  creed 
is  founded  the  craft  of  the  Panfaret  or  Ma- 
gician, who  being  fuppofed  to  defeat,  or 
control  the  machinations  of  the  invifible 
enemy,   pracftifes   a   thoufand   tricks  on  the 

Vol.  HI,  I  creduht/ 


ÎI4       VOYAGE    TO   THE  SOUTH   POLE. 

credulity  of  the  multitude;  few  Indians 
indeed  of  ;:[ood  fenfQ  eive  credit  to 
the  virtue  of  his  inchantments  ;  but  the 
more  ignorant  and  fuperftitious,  who  always 
compofe  the  largefb  portion  of  the  people, 
fuffer  themfelves  to  be  miferably  duped  by 
his  fraud  aiid  impofition.  Amulets  of 
a  fpecies  of  wood,  fufpended  round  the 
neck,  or  preferved  in  a  little  bag,  are  fup- 
pofed  to  fecure  the  poffelfor  againil  wounds 
and  the  diftaflers  of  war.  A  fhrimp  or  toad, 
applied  with  words  of  incantation  to  the 
head  of  a  perfon  afflid:ed  by  difeafe,  is  ex- 
pe6ted  to  reilore  the  patieHt  to  his  wonted 
health.  Expoiing  the  lick  in  a  hut  of 
a  certain  elevation,  open  towards  the  eaft, 
from  which  is  let  fly  an  aflemblage  of 
party-coloured  threads,  is  a  fovereign  re- 
medy in  the  moft  defperate  cafes.  A  cure 
is  fometimcs  efFeâ:ed  by  only  painting  the 
polls  or  pillars  of  tlie  patient's  houfe  of  dif- 
ferent colours.  Perfumes  mix  in  abun- 
dance in  all  the  arts  and  inchantments  of 
the  Magician.  Madagafcar,  laftly,  prefents 
the  traveller  v/ith  many  other  abfurd  ob- 
fervances,  of  which  it  may  bs  difficult  to 

trace 


VOYAGE   TO   THE   SOUTH   POLE.        II5 

trace  the  origin,  but  which,  in  general 
feem  to  be  the  barbarous  veftigcs  of  reh- 
gious  notions,  indiftindtly  tranfmitted  to  the 
people  from  their  Afiatic  neighbours  :  the 
rite  of  circumcilion,  the  common  ufe  of 
perfumes,  and  a  profound  veneration  for 
the  quarter  of  the  Eafl,  are  evidently  the 
remains  of  religious  lyftems  of  the  higheft 
antiquity. 

But  the  moft  horrid  part  of  their  fuper- 
flition  conflits  in  this.  When  an  infant  has 
the  misfortune  to  drop  into  the  world  on  a 
day  efteemed  unlucky,  or  of  bad  omen, 
by  the  Panfaret,  he  is  expofed  or  fuffered 
to  die  of  want,  or  to  be  devoured  by 
wild  beafls.  I  never  was  an  eye  witnefs 
of  this  enormity;  but  have  heard  the 
exiflence  of  it  afferted  by  fo  many  per- 
fons  of  credit,  that  I  am  obliged  to 
believe  the  pradice  to  be  but  too  fre- 
quent. 

The  natives  are  accuflomed  to  hunt  the 
whale  all  along  their  coaft;  and  having 
been  fortunate  enough  to  ftrike  him  with 
the  harpoon,  they  wait  till  his  flrength 
is  nearly  exhaufled,  when  they  haul  him 
I  2  towards 


Îl6       VOYAGE   TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE» 

towards  the  fhore.  The  women,  who  by 
this  time  are  aiTembled  on  the  beach, 
raife  fongs  of  praife  in  honour  of  him  who 
had  the  merit  of  giving  the  firfî  wound. 
The  chorus  having  withdrawn,  the  whale 
is  dragged  as  near  as  poffible  to  land,  and 
furrounded  by  all  the  men  of  the  village, 
when  the  publick  orator  advances,  and 
having  pronounced  a:  long  oration  on  the 
pre-eminence  and  excellent  qualities  of  the 
iifh,  the  whale  is  cut  up,  and  affords  an^ 
immediate  repafl  to  the  company,. 


CHAP. 


VOYAGE   TO   THE   SOUTH   POLE.       llj 

CHAP.     XIV. 

^he  Palavers  y  or  Conferences,  the  Natives  of 
Madagafcar  bold,  even  en  the  moji  trivial 
Occafion — 'Their  Pojfejjïons — Arms — Mode 
of  internal  Defence — Military  Operations — ■ 
their  Cruelty  in  War,  and  irreconcilable 
Hatred  of  their  Rnemies, 

THE  fmallefl  matter  of  difpute  which 
happens  to  occur  between  the  natives 
of  Madagafcar  and  the  Europeans,  or,  in- 
deed, between  Indians  of  different  tribes, 
receives  a  formal  difcuffion  in  the  palaver, 
or  council  of  the  tribe.  Here  they  affcd  to 
confider  the  fubjed  before  them,  very  mi- 
nutely, in  its  origin  and  probable  confe- 
quences.  All  the  alliances,  as  well  as  dif- 
pûtes,  that  have  at  any  time  fubfifted 
between  them  and  the  oppofite  party,  are 
brought  under  review.  Much  time  is 
fpent  in  weighing  the  arguments  of  the 
fpeakers  on  both  fides,  and  in  general  the 
fefllons  of  the  palaver  are  fpun  out  to  a 
very  tedious  length  before  they  can  come 
to  a  decifion.  Such  are  the  mighty  preten- 
I  3  fions 


Îl8       VOYAGE   TO   THE   SOUTH   POLE, 

lions  of  the  natives  to  talents  for  délibéra-* 
tion;  pretenlions  which,  were  they  as  folid 
^s  they  are  vain  and  affed:ed,  would  ferve 
to  difcredit  the  account  I  have  already  given 
of  their  charadrer.      But  the  fad:  is,  the  in- 
habitants of  Madagafcar  are  a  people  of  a 
weak  intelled:,  and  far  from  being  qualified 
by  a  found   underftanding  to  avail   them- 
felves  of  maxims,   drawn  from  experience, 
in  confidering  the  contingencies  of  futurity. 
Befides^  as  the  country  is  divided  into  many 
fmall  and  independent  fiâtes,  mutually  dif- 
pofed  to  humble  and  deprefs  each    other, 
the  interefls  of  any  individual  community 
are  very  much  involved,   infomuch  that  it 
is  often  difficult  to  fay  what  is  the  line  of 
condudt  it  ought  in  good  policy  to  purfue. 
But  their   chief  misfortune,   as   politicians 
and  men  of  bufinefs,  originates  in  the  ver- 
satility of  their  own  minds  ^  things  of  a  tri-r 
vial   nature,  fuch   as  a   fmall   prefent   ad^ 
vantage,    are    fufficient    to    unhinge  their 
judgement,    and   to  impede  the   executiori 
pf  even  their  graveft  refolves. 

Property  in  this  illand  confifls  of  cattle, 

grain,    and    flayes    of    the    fame    nation 

2  with 


TOYAGE   TO   THE   SOUTH   POLE.        Ill) 

v/ith  their  mafcers.  Every  perfon  who 
has  the  misfortune  to  be  made  a  prifoncr 
of  war,  man,  woman,  or  child,  is  reduced 
to  the  condition  of  flavery,  and  from  that 
moment  is  regarded  by  his  own  kindred 
as  an  objed;  of  contempt. 

Their  arms  coniifl  of  a  fliield,  and  the 
figay,  a  fpecies  of  lance,  which  they  have 
the  art  of  throwing  with  peculiar  addrefs. 
They  are  tolerably  well  provided  with  muf- 
kets,  which  they  have  purchafed  from  the 
French,  and  in  the  management  of  which 
fome  of  the  natives  are  not  unfkilful.  A 
few  of  the  petty  princes  have  obtained' 
fwivel  guns  from  the  fame  quarter,  and 
Î  am  told  the  Chief  of  Foulpoint  is  in  con- 
dition to  bring  cannon  into  the  field,  afford- 
ing an  example  of  that  infatuated  avarice 
fo  notorious  .in  the  characfler  of  a  i'rench 
merchant. 

The  refidence  of  x\\<z  Chief  is  within  a 
Fort  or  Stocade,  coniifling  of  three  rows 
of  large  trees,  fixed  in  the  ground  fo  clofe 
as  almoft  to  exclude  the  light.  The  ou- 
ter row  is  about  fifteen  feet  high,  the 
i)ext  nine,    arid  the  lafî,    or  innermofl   at 

I  4  leail 


Ï20       VOYAGE  TO  THE   SOUTH   POLE. 

kaft  fix.  The  three  rows,  having  fcarceî)? 
any  fpace  betwedi  them,  form  one  com- 
paftmafs  of  timbers,  all  mutualty  flrengthen- 
ing  ana  fupporting  one  another.  They  are 
faftened  together  at  the  top  hj  acrofs  beam, 
frretching  along  a  groove,  common  to  all 
the  flakes  in  the  paling,  and  extending  the 
■whole  breadth  of  the  fort.  The  gate  is 
extremely  narrov/,  being  intended  to  admit 
one  perfon  only  in  front;  the  door,  com- 
pofed  of  a  number  of  fmali  ftakes,  rolls  at 
the  top  on  a  tranfverfe  axis,  and  is  capable 
of  being  pulled  up,  and  let  down,  in  the 
manner  of  a  portcullis,  as  occalion  may 
require.  A  double  door  is  not  unfrequent, 
v/hich  is  inclofed  in  a  cafe  or  frame,  con- 
iifling  likewife  of  flakes,  Their  forts  in 
general  are  nothing  more  than  fimple  pal- 
lifades,  'conflrudted  in  the  form  of  an  ob- 
long fquare;  though  fome  of  them  havq 
ûiQ  advantage  of  baflions,  and  galleries, 
with  openings,  for  the  purpofe  of  recon- 
noitering. 

On  the  eve  of  war,  the  women,  children, 
and  cattle,  retreat  to  the  woods,  and  remain 
in  cpncealm.ent  till  the  iffue  of  the  cam- 
paign, 


VOYAGE   TO  THE   SOUTH   POLE.       121 

paign.  The  village  is  then  occupied  only 
by  the  men,  who,  previoufly  to  an  a>2  of  ^ 
hoflilities,  facrifice  an  ox.  An  Indian, 
diftingui(hed  for  his  eloquence,  then  rifes, 
^nd  makes  a  long  harangue  on  the  arrogance 
^nd  injultice  of  the  enemy;  his  country- 
men meanwhile  dipping  their  fagays  in  the 
blood  of  the  vidtim.  The  carcafe  is  now 
cut  in  pieces,  with  the  ikin,  and  diflributed 
among  the  by- {landers,  who  inftantly 
begin  to  devour  each  man  his  allowance 
with  a  horrid  voracity;  a  ceremony  fuf- 
iiciently  defcriptive  of  thofe  ferocious  {qïi^ 
timents  with  which  they  proceed  to  vindicate 
their  rights,  or  avenge  their  wrongs.  On 
this  occafio:!  a  ilranger  mufl  not  prefume 
to  dip  his  lance  in  the  blood,  or  to  fhare 
in  the  warlike  entertainment,  unlefs  he  is 
the  reputed  ally  of  the  tribe;  but  touching 
the  point  of  Insfagay  vv'i:h  the  point  of  theirs, 
ratifies  his  title  to  their  alliance. 

Their  operations  in  the  field  are  of  a 
very  defultory  defcription,  confiding  chiefly 
in  teazing  and  harrafling  the  enemy,  or  In 
attempting  to  furprife  him,  difadvantage- 
pufly  pofted,  in  the  night.      If  they  have. 

reafon 


122       VOYAGE   TO   THE   SOUTH   POLE. 

reafon  to  imagine  that  the  enemy  is  oft  his 
guard,  or  Httle  prepared  for  the  defence 
of  his  fort,  they  form  a  blockade  round  it, 
and  endeavour  by  a  coup  de  7naîn  to  make 
the  Chief  a  prifoner  of  war  :  fliould  they 
have  the  good  fortune  to  fucceed,  they  phun- 
der  his  village,  drive  off. his  cattle,  and  en- 
fla ve  his  vaiTals  ;  but  feldom  or  never  come 
to  any  thing  like  a  regular  engagement. 

In  lituations  where  it  is  deemed  fufficient 
to  remain  on  the  defeniive,  they  fhew  con- 
fiderable  vigilance  and  addrefs  in  the  ufe 
of  advanced  pofts,  fentinels,  and  above  all 
ipies,  v/ho  are  conflantly  bufy  in  recon- 
noitring the  ground  and  motions  of  the 
enemy.  An  example  of  this  fort  fell  under 
my  obfervation  at  Mahanlevou.  The  Chief 
of  that  itigmory,  hearing  that  diilurbances 
'were  breaking  out  in  the  country,  began 
to  confult  his  fafety,  by  demoliiliing  fuch 
houfes  in  the  vicinity  of  his  pallifade  as 
obftrudted  his  view.  He  fortified  the  mouth 
of  his  river  by  throwing  up  a  mound  of 
eai'th,  and  placing  his  fufi leers  in  ambuf- 
cade  in  the  ditch.  On  the  top  of  the 
mpiind  he   laid  a  large  plank    of    wood, 

pierce4 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.    12^ 

pierced  like  a  hay  rack,  through  the  aper- 
tures of  which  they  pafled  the  barrels  of 
their  fire-locks.  Heaps  of  grafs  were  fo 
difpofed  in  front  of  the  work,  as  to  make 
it  difficult  to  difcover  this  mafked  battery 
at  the  diftance  of  a  piftol  fhot;  while 
thofe  charged  with  its  defence  were  wholly 
covered  from  the  fire  of  the  enemy.  The 
Chief  never  gives  audience  to  an  EmbafTa- 
dor,  till  he  has  been  previoufly  informed 
by  his  fentinels  of  the  general  nature  and 
import  of  the  embafiy.  Should  the  Em^ 
baffador's  inftruâiions  be  deemed  fatisfac- 
tory,  the  Chief  makes  his  appearance,  and 
admits  him  to  an  interview  at  fome  diftance 
from  the  fort.  He  com.es  up  and  accofls  his 
Excellency  with  a  noble,  manly,  and  fedate 
mien;  but  on  no  occafion  whatever  does  he 
permit  him  to  enter  the  gate  of  his  pallifade. 
The  natives  of  Madagafcar  are  fufceptible 
of  very  violent  enmities,  and  fometimes  ex- 
ecute  on  their  devoted  objedis  the  moil  de- 
liberate cruelties.  I  faw  a  Chief  drefied  in 
a  necklace  formed  of  the  teeth  of  a  rival  v/hom 
he  had  flain  in  battle.  A  man  of  the 
iame  quality  having  ^captured  a  daughter  and 

coufin 


124     VOYAGE   TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 

coufin  of  an  obnoxious  neighbour,  ordered 
them  into  his  prefence,  and  in  cold  blood,  ■ 
with  a  fingle  ftroke  of  his  lance,  killed 
the  former,  difmiffing  her  companion  to 
carry  home  the  difmal  news  to  the  parent; 
and  to  affure  him  at  the  fame  time,  that  he, 
and  every  foul  under  his  roof,  ihould  fooner 
or  later  experience  his  vengeance,  in  a  fimi- 
lar  manner. 

I  am  doubtful,  whether  the  fenfibility 
natural  to  a  man  in  an  uncultivated  or  favage 
Hate,  when  greatly  exafperated  or  provoked, 
with  ail  the  angry  and  unfocial  paffions  in 
full  poiTeffion  of  him,  may  not  a(5c  as  an 
incentive  to  the  cruelty  of  his  revenge.  How 
often  has  the  favage  of  America,  from  the 
impulfe  of  natural  goodnefs,  welcomed  me 
to  his  hut,  and  refreshed  me  with  the  wild 
animal,  which,  with  the  fweat  of  his  brow, 
he  had  killed  in  the  defart  j  while  in  the 
mean  time  the  fcalp  of  an  enemy  hung  dan- 
gling round  his  neck,  and  imparted  to  his 
ordinary  beverage  a  delicious  flavour.  The 
new  Zelander  fates  his  appetite  with  the 
quivering  limbs  of  a  gueft,  who,  from  folly 
or   ingratitude,  roufçs  him  into  a  paroxifm 

3  ^f 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.    12^ 

of  rage.  The  native  of  Madagalcar,  while 
he  lives  and  alTociates  v^^ith  a  ftranger  as 
with  a  brother,  may  with  great  compofure 
be  feen  pulling  out  the  teeth  of  a  man  whom 
he  flew  in  his  anger  ;  thefe  are  the  fpoils 
which  at  once  footh  his  rage  and  adorn  his 
perfon;  nor  can  a  more  defirable  obje6t 
prefent  itfelf  to  his  fenfes,  than  the  tears 
and  anguidi  of  thofe  who  were  united  by 
the  mofl  tender  aifeâ;ion  to  the  fortunes 
of  his  vi(flim. 


CHAP.      XV. 

Mode  of  giving  and  receiving  Prefent  s  ai 
Madagafcar — TJoe  Licences  in  which  ttoe 
young  Females  indulge,  arifefrom  a  Motive 
of  Avarice — ChaJUty  of  the  married  Wo- 
men — Ohfervations  on  the  Language  of 
the  Inhabitants. 

THE  cuflomary  ufe  of  prefents  is  the 
fame  here  as  in  India;  it  is  the  bufi- 
nefs  of  the  inferior  to  make  the  iirfl:  ad- 
vance as  well  as  the  firll  prefent,  but  he 

always 


120    VOYAGE  TO  THE   SOUTH  POLE. 

always  receives    another  in  return.     Upon 
our  arrival  in  this  bay,  we  fpent  feme  days 
in  receiving  compliments  from  the  Chiefs 
of  the  adjacent  villages.     They  fet  off  from 
the  fhore    in    their  canoes,    beating  their 
Gongs,  and   feemed  highly  delighted  with 
the  honour  of  difplaying  the  iiag  of  France  ; 
in  this    manner  they    fignified    their  fatis- 
fadiion  at  feeing   us    on  the  coafl;  and  as 
the  main  objed:  of  this   vifit  was  to  folicit 
our  alliance,   they  prefented  us  v/ithoxen, 
fowls,   and   fruit.     They  were  efcorted  by 
a  numerous  retinue  of  armed  Indians,  who 
faluted  us  with  many  expreffions  of  friend- 
ship ;   particularly  by  grounding  their   arms 
in   the  canoe.      The   Chief   was  likewife 
attended  by  his  favourite  wife,  daughters, 
and    neareft    female   relations,    whom   we 
were  not  unmindful   to    regale  with    fruit 
and    flrong   liquors.       We    prefented    the 
Chief  v/ith   a  gun,  and   the  ladies   with  a 
piece    of    muilin,    fainting   them  at  their 
departure  with  three  rounds  of  cannon,  to 
which   they   anfwered   by  repeated   fliouts 
of  joy  and  exultation.      The  French  flag 

had 


VOYAGE   TO   THE    SOUTH   POLE.     12J 

had  been  flying  at  the  villages  ever  fince 
our  nrft  arrival  in  the  bay;  nor  U'as  any 
mark  of  attention  and  good  will  omitted  on 
the  part  of  the  natives,  that  could  excite 
fimilar  fentiments  in  our  minds.  Having, 
however,  a  nice  fenfibility  o{  character,  if 
they  could  at  any  time  guefs  from  the 
nature  or  degree  of  our  acknov;iedgements, 
that  our  feelings  were  not  in  unifon  with 
their  ov/n,  they  were  apt  to  become  fuf- 
picious  or  at  beft  perfedly  indifferent  to 
our  concerns.  It  was  confidered  as  our 
duty  to  make  a  prefent  to  the  Chief,  who 
always  prefides  over  the  market,  as  often 
as  we  had  occafion  for  a  frefh  fupply  of 
proviiions.  Our  repairing  to  their  villages 
for  the  purpofe  of  providing  for  our  wants, 
fhewed  our  dependence  on  their  frienddiip; 
an  advantage  to  be  purchafed  with  a  prefent; 
they,  in  their  turn  appearing  on  board  to 
requed:  a  renewal  of  their  alliance  v/ith  the 
French,  felt  the  propriety  of  proving  them- 
felves  worthy  of  it  by  making  prefents 
in  their  turn  ;  faâ:s  in  perfed:  conformity 
to  all  the  maxims  of  the  Eafl  refpei^ling 
the  nature  of  prefents. 

The 


iaS    VOYAGE   TO  THE   SOUTH   POLEi 

The  natives  of  Madagafcar  indulge   iri 
all  the  offices  of  hofpitalitj;  a  virtue,  which 
there  is  rather   the  refult  of  a  natural  im- 
pulfe  of  the  heart,  than  the  prad:ice  of  any 
fixed  and   defined  precept,   fuch  as  founds 
the  exercife  of  it  in   the  nations   of  Afia* 
When   travellers  tell  us,   however,   that  in 
the  liland  of  Madagafcar,  the  offices  of  hof- 
pitality  are  carried  to  fuch  a  pitch  of  ex- 
travagance, as   to  make    it  cuflomary  for 
parents   to   proftitute   their  children  to  thé 
embraces  of  Grangers,   they    fpeak    either 
from  ignorance  or  from  a  defire  of  exciting 
aftonifhment  in  the  reader.     From  a  clofc^-r 
infpcdtion   of  their  manners >    they   might 
have  found  that  the  little  regard  fhewn   to 
chaility   among   that  people,    may    be  re- 
folved    into   a    covetous    defire  of  parents^ 
and  a  long  acquaintance  v/ith  the  propen- 
fities   of  diffolute   men.     I  was    at   much 
pains   to  examine  into  the  grounds  of  this 
report  ;   for  had  I  found,  as  has  been  ftated 
by  fome  voyagers,    that  a  parent  made  no 
difficulty  to  deliver  up  his  daughter  to  the 
defires  of  every  vagrant  who   happened    to 
land  upon  the  coaft,  I  fliould  then  have  in- 
ferred 


Voyage  to  the  sôitth  pole.     129 

ferred  that  in  this  iiland  an  original  fenfe 
of  modeily  and  perfonal  dignity  made  no 
part  of  the  moral  charader  of  man.  But 
what  young  woman,  in  any  part  of  the 
globe,  ever  offered  fo  ftrong  an  exception 
to  the  general  character  of  the  fex,  as  that, 
previouily  to  example  and  early  fedudlion, 
fhe  would  give  herfelf  up  to  a  man  fhe  never 
faw  before,  and  one  widely  differing  from 
her  own  countrymen  in  complexion,  lan- 
guage, and  manners.  Or  can  we  figure  to 
ourièives  a  race  of  men  fo  vile  and  con- 
temptible in  their  own  eyes,  as  to  feel  them- 
felves  honoured  by  adminiflring,  in  the  per^ 
fons  of  their  own  offspring,  to  the  improper 
appetites  of  ftrangers.  This  tale  therefore  I 
place  with  confidence  to  the  account  of 
exaggeration,  a  figure  but  too  incident  to 
the  narrations  of  travellers. 

In  endeavouring  to  refolve  thofe  equi- 
vocal appearances,  which  tend  to  miflead 
a  fuperficial  obferver  on  this  point,  I  re- 
marked in  the  firfc  place,  that  boys  and 
girls  are  net  only  permitted  to  live  together 
without  the  fmalleil  refliraint,  but,  from 
the  eariiefl  dawn  of  puberty,    are  prompted 

VcL.  IIL  K  by 


130      VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 

by  their  parents,  to  the  ufe  of  thofe  powers 
with  which  nature  has  endowed  them.  It 
is  eafy  to  imagine  that  having  once  tailed 
the  fweets  of  pleafure,  they  will  be  inticed, 
by  opportunity  and  the  influence  of  a 
warm  climate,  to  a  frequent  repetition  of 
the  fame  enjoyment.  Every  thing  they 
either  hear  or  fee,  a6ls  as  a  ftimulus  to 
paffion;  words  and  geftures,  the  moil  free 
and  licentious,  are  fanâ:ioned  by  cuftom, 
and  mix  in  the  ordinary  commerce  of  life. 
The  parent  obferves  with  fatisfadtion  the 
effedts  of  fuch  education  on  the  charaâ:ef 
of  his  child,  and  thence  augurs  every 
thing  happy  and  profperous  to  his  family 
in  time  to  come. 

I  fpeak,  however,  only  of  boys  and  girls  ; 
for  married  women  are  very  little  addicted 
to  violate  the  nuptial  engagement.  A  huf- 
band  indeed  may  polTefs  concubines  or 
wives  of  a  fecondary  order;  but  making 
allov/ance  for  this  cuilom,  by  no  means 
peculiar  to  them,  I  am  inclined  to  believe 
there  is  much  mutual  fidelity  between  the 
fexes  in  a  married  ilate.  The  foreigners, 
who  firll  vifited  this  illand  in  modern  times, 

were 


VOYAGE  TO   THE   SOUTH   POLE.        I '^  t 

Were  Mahometans  :  they  were  followed  by 
Europeans,  particularly  the  French,  who 
have  been  fettled  here  as  a  colony  for  a  con- 
fiderable  time;  and  both  thefe  races,  with 
whom  the  natives  early  afTociated,  to  fay 
no  worfe  of  them,  were  men  of  intriguing 
manners.  The  firft  were  fo  from  conllitu- 
tion  and  the  licenfe  granted  them  by  the 
genius  of  their  religion;  the  fécond,  from 
habit,  and  perhaps  from  an  affe(5tation  of 
gallantry,  and  the  love  of  the  fex.  Both, 
ftimulated  by  the  fame  defires,  and  favoured 
by  the  loofe  principles  of  education  in  the 
females,  infinuated  themfelves  into  the  com- 
pany of  the  lower  order  of  the  people, 
whom  by  prefents,  and  the  hope  of  future 
gain,  they  eafily  made  fubfervient  to  their 
views.  A  fort  of  prodigality,  incident  to 
the  characfler  of  a  feaman  on  fhore,  foon 
removed  the  fcruples  of  the  interefted  pa- 
rents; and  thus,  by  gradually  extinguifhing 
all  fentiments  of  referve  between  native 
and  foreign  avarice,  triumphed  in  the  end 
over  every  obfhacle  to  illicit  gratification. 
The  Chiefs  themfelves,  naturally  jealous 
©f  Europeans,  and  not  infenfible  to  the 
K  2  emolu- 


Î32        VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE-* 

emoluments  of  proflitufion,  bred  up  their 
daughters  in  all  the  arts  of  the  coquet,  irk 
order  that  they  might  obtain  a  preference 
in  the  eye  of  flrangers.  Befides  the  article 
of  prefents,  the  Chief,  by  means  of  his/ 
daughters,  who  ad:  as  fpies  on  the  fenti- 
ments  and  conducfl  of  the  paramour,  ob- 
tains fuch  intelligence  as  is  fometimes  con- 
ducive to  his  fafety  and  independence.  Thus 
the  young  ladies  of  Madagafcar,  habituated 
to  intrigue,  prompted  by  the  political  and 
pecuniary  views  of  their  parents,  and  cap- 
tivated by  the  charm  of  fome  new  orna- 
ment for  their  perfons^  ceafe  to  be  reluc- 
tant to  the  v/ifhes  of  their  admirers. 

Such,  I  am  convinced,  are  the  origin  and 
progrefs  of  that  want  of  modelly  in  the^. 
fex  taken  notice  of  by  all  travellers  who 
have  viiited  this  illand  3  a  feature  however, 
which,  far  from  being  the  refult  of  any 
natural  fentiment,  plainly  arifes,  as  in  all 
fimilar  cafes,  from  depravity  of  manners.. 
But  extravagant  as  the  natives  are  in  their 
worflnip  of  the  Paphian  Goddefs,  I  could 
iiot  learii  that  any  female  ever   makes  the 

ûrik 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.        Î33 

firfl  advances  to  a  ftranger.  That  there  arc 
vi'onien  who  hold  out  meretricious  lures 
to  the  publick  I  have  no  doubt  of^  but 
fuch  characters  belong  to  a  defcription  of 
the  fex  by  no  means  peculiar  to  this 
iiland. 

I  was  not  a  little  furprifed  that  this  great 
relaxation  of  manners  had  in  no  decree 
formed  a  union  between  the  natives  and 
the  French.  It  fliould  feem  natural  to 
imagine,  that  the  habits  of  commerce  with 
the  fex  would  often  conned:  the  male  and 
female  by  ties  of  mutual  confidence  and 
affedion  :  certain  it  is,  however,  that  no 
fuch  attachment  prevails.  When  a  woman 
happens  to  conceive  by  a  foreigner,  fhe 
induftriouily  procures  abortion,  by  the  ap- 
plication of  certain  drugs  whofe  efficacy 
is  well  known  to  the  natives:  and  this 
praâ;ice  feems  to  be  fo  univerfal,  that  I 
did  not  meet  with  a  fmgle  Mulatto,  or 
perfon  of  colour,  in  Madagafcar;  a  country, 
which,  from  the  ufual  courfe  of  things, 
might  be  expeded  to  contain  many  thou- 
■fands  of  this  breed. 

K  7  Should 


134       VOYAGE   TO  THE   SOUTH   POLE. 

Should  it  be  alledged,  that  in  the  above 
detail,  by  offending  againft  the  modefty  of 
the  fex,  as  well  as  of  men  devoted  to  the 
auflere  habits  of  the  cloifler,  I  have  de- 
parted from  thofe  moral  maxims  which 
ought  ever  to  prevail  in  the  traveller's  narra- 
tive, I  have  only  to  fay  in  my  juftification, 
that  if,  befides  prefenting  a  faithful  pic- 
ture of  human  manners,  with  an  analylls 
of  charadter  applicable  to  the  natives  of 
Madagafcar,  I  have  endeavoured  to  dif- 
credit  fuch  miftaken  notions  as  w^ould 
make  the  reality  of  moral  diflindions 
contingent  on  habit  and  education,  I  hope 
I  (hall  not  only  have  credit  for  the  purity 
of  my  motives,  but  be  allov/ed  to  have 
ferved,  in  fome  degree,  the  caufe  of  virtue 
and  morality. 

Relying  on  the  authority  of  many  per- 
fons  who  have  vifited  the  ifland  of  Otaheite, 
of  which  v/e  have  had  reports  fimilar  to 
thofe-  of  Madagafcar,  I  w^ould  obferve  in 
the  fime  view,  that  there  too  an  inte- 
j-efled  principle  produces  the  proftitutioii 
of  the  women.  In  the  latter,  the  female 
places  an  implicit  confidence  in  the  honour 

and 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.        I35 

and  liberality  of  her  admirer;  while  in  the 
former,  fhe  ufually  enters  into  a  previous 
and  formal  bargain,  or  contradt,  for  the  ufe 
of  her  perfon,  a  circumilance  which  im- 
plies a  ftill  greater  degree  of  jfelfi^fhnefs  and 
depravity.  Again,  if  we  may  depend  on 
the  veracity  of  a  native  of  Otaheite,  whom 
I  had  frequent  opportunities  of  converfing 
with  at  Paris,  as  well  as  the  reports  of 
various  voyagers,  who  give  teftimony  to  the 
conjugal  fidelity  of  the  Otaheitan  matrons, 
we  iliall  be  fatisfied  that  the  commerce 
between  the  fexes  is  nearly  the  fame  in 
Otaheite  as  in  the  ifland  of  Madagafcar, 
and  feems  equally  to  fpring  from  the  fame 
principles.  Such  alfo,  with  very  little 
difference,  are  the  manners  in  this  rcfped: 
of  New  Zealand,  and  Greenland;  and  all 
ought  doubtlefs  to  be  referred  to  a  fimilar 
origin. 

From  fad:s,  equally  mifunderftood,  tra- 
vellers feem  to  have  been  led  to  the  com- 
mon dodrine  of  cannibals  ;  for  I  am  con- 
vinced there  is  no  race  of  favages  on  the 
face  of  the  earth,  who  devour  their  fel- 
low men  in  cool  blood.  The  rage  of  war, 
K  4  and 


136        VOYAGE   TO  THE   SOUTH  POLE, 

and  an  indignant  fenfe  of  injuftice  and  op.» 
preffion,  urge  fome  Indian  nations  to  eat 
the  body  of  a  dead  enemy  ;  but  has  not 
the  fury  and  madnefs  of  fanaticifm,  on  many 
occalions,    aâ:ed  with  equal  enormity? 

In  the  language  of  Madagafcar,  which 
is  by  no  means  harfli  or  difagreeable  to 
the  ear,  I  perceived  fome  of  the  fame  in- 
flexions of  voice  which  occur  in  that  of  the 
Philippine  illes.  It  feems  a  compound  of 
different  languages,  and  contains  many 
words  borrowed  from  the  Arabic  and 
Portuguefe.  Kabar,  for  inftance,  fignifies 
new,  and  Ouagh^  the  face,  as  well  in  Ma- 
dagafcar  as  in  Arabia.  Palabra,  or  Palaver, 
means  fpeech  or  difcourfe  in  Portuguefe, 
and  difcourfe  or  council  in  the  language 
of  this  illand.  The  term  parole  might  be 
ufed  without  any  great  impropriety  to 
exprefs  council  in  our  own  tongue.  Par- 
lement  and  parlementer ,  the  one  flgnifying 
the  place,  and  the  other,  as  a  term  of  war, 
the  a(ft  of  holding  a  council,  are  evidently 
derived  from  parler.  But  I  ceafe  enlarg- 
ing on  a  country,    the  hillory  ©f  which  is 

familiar 


VOYAGE   TO   THE   SOUTH   POLE.         1 37 

familiar  to  many  of  my  readers,  and  return 


to  the  frigate. 


CHAP.      XVI. 

T!he  two  Vejfch,  having  refitted,  feparate-^ 
T^he  larger  one,  in  which  the  Author  is, 
fails  for  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope — Anchor^ 
age  in  Simon  s  Bay — Further  Obfervations 
on  the  natural  Hi/iory  and  ProduBions  of 
the  Cape — Departure  for  Europe,  and  ar- 
rival in  Brefi  Road, 

THE  fhrip  of  land,  which  lies  weft  from 
the  mouth  of  the  river  Emballe,  is 
in  latitude  iç^  2j"  -,  and  its  longitude,  as 
determined  by  an  eclipfe  of  the  fun,  ob- 
ferved  on  the  1 2th  of  March,   47^  45^^ 

Our  people,  who  had  been  ill  of  the 
fcurvy,  were  now  in  a  ftate  of  convalef- 
cence;  and  as  we  were  appreheniive  left 
longer  delay  might  expofe  us  to  the  malig- 
nant fevers  of  the  country,  we  laid  in  a 
frefh  ftock  of  rice,  beef,  and  poultry,  and, 
on  the  29th  of  March,  be^an  to  fall  down 

the 


135        VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 

the  bay.  We  difpatched  the  Corvet  to  the 
ilîe  of  France,  and  made  fail  with  the  fri- 
gate for  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

With  all  our  diligence,  however,  to  quit 
the  coaH:  of  Madagafcar,  upon  the  firfl 
iymptoms  of  feveriih  diforders,  we  were 
unable  to  clear  the  bay  before  the  conm- 
mencement  of  the  rains;  the  confequencc 
of  which  was  that  a  number  of  the  crew 
caught  the  fevxr  of  the  feafon. 

Nothing  material  occurred  on  the  paf- 
fage,  except  the  difcovery  of  fome  currents, 
in  a  well  Ibuth  weft  diredlion. 

On  the  29th  of  April,  the  appearance 
of  fome  Manches  de  'velours  or  velvet  fleeves, 
announced  our  approach  to  Needle  Bank, 
which  runs  along  the  {hore  eaft  from  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope.  The  lead  gave  us 
100  fathoms,  on  a  bottom  of  fine  white 
fand,  mixed  with  fome  earth  and  fhells. 
The  iH  of  May  we  faw  the  coaft  of 
Africa,  when  we  had  foundings  of  fixty 
fathoms  on  the  fame  fand,  mixed  with 
black  pebbles,  and  fhells  pointed  like 
needles.  The  north  wind  barred  our  en- 
trance to    Falfe  Bay;    but  on  the    5th  in 

the 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE.       I39 

the  evening,  after  failing  a  little  fouth  eafl:, 
we  dropped  anchor  ;  and  came  to  moor- 
ings in  Simon's  Bay  the  day  following. 

The  feeds  of  a  fever  we  had  imbibed 
in  Antongil  Bay,  now  fhewed  themlelves 
in  the  mortality  of  many  of  the  iliip's  com- 
pany. I  found,  however,  agreeably  to 
what  is  above  mentioned,  that  the  bulk  of 
the  unfortunate  fufferers  had  imprudently 
expofed  thenifelves  either  to  the  rain  or 
the  heat  of  the  fun.  Happily,  in  many 
of  our  fick>  the  wholefome  air  of  the  Cape 
foon  began  to  produce  iymp^toms  of  re- 
covery. 

On  this  occaiion  I  employed  my  time 
at  the  Cape,  either  in  traverfing  the  moun- 
tains, from  which  I  ufed  to  return,  very 
idly  perhaps,  loaded  with  plants,  parti*, 
cularly  onions  in  flower,  wonderfully  diver- 
fified  in  their  fpecies;  or  in  the  amufement 
of  fifliing,  which  I  found  extremely  pro- 
dudive.  In  my  excurfions,  I  frequently 
faw  a  fmall  fpecies  of  flag,  and  a  race  of 
very  large  nionkies,  named  Bavian.  The 
Dacy,  a  kind  of  rabbit,  prefented  itfelf, 
bafking  in  the  fun,  and  often  fuffered  me 

to 


Î40         VOYAGE    TO   THE   SOUTH  POLE. 

to  approach  within  a  fmall  diflance  before 
he  betook  himfelf  to  his  hole. 

My  ear  was  dehghted  with  the  fweet 
note  of  a  fmall  yellow  bird  like  the  Green- 
finch; nor  was  I  lefs  pleafed  with  the 
melody  of  another  fpecies  of  the  fame  fize, 
remarkable  for  his  tail,  which  is  at  leafl 
eight  inches  in  length. 

There  is  a  wonderful  beauty  and  deli- 
cacy in  the  plumage  of  the  Senegaly,  or 
Sparrow  of  Senegal,  which  is  named  at 
the  Cape,  Red-bill.  I  faw  likewife  various 
fpecies  of  the  Colobris,  one  of  the  mofh 
elegant  breeds  of  birds.  It  is  faid  by  the 
naturalift,  that  his  feathers  prefent  us  with 
all  the  beautiful  colours  of  precious  ftones. 
He  is  a  native  of  many  different  parts  of 
the  globe,  Surinam,  New  Spain,  Mexico, 
and  other  countries.  Here  too  is  a  very 
handfome  fpecies  of  tufted  Sparrow,  whofe 
feathers  arc  fpotted  with  black;  and  Par- 
tridges in  great  abundance.  The  Lion, 
Tiger,  Zebra,  Cafoat,  one  of  the  largefl 
birds  in  the  world,  Ollrich,  and  Eagle, 
are   all   natives  of   this   country,   but  are 

feldom 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH    POLE.       I41 

feldom  fecn  except  in  the  interior  regions 
of  the  continent. 

The  Elements  at  the  Cape  feem  to  vie 
with  each  other  in  adminiftring  to  the 
wants  of  the  inhabitants.  Five  or  fix 
failors,  who  were  fond  of  fifhing,  foon 
caught  with  the  line  enough  to  fatisfy 
the  whole  crewj  and  the  lifli  were,  in 
fuch  plenty,  that  the  men  often  hooked 
them  in  the  belly,  by  only  dangling  the 
line  carelefsly  in  the  water.  They  fhewed 
me  a  kind  of  white  fifh,  of  a  reddifh  tinge, 
with  a  large  infedl,  which  feemed  to  live 
and  feed  in  his  mouth.  I  caueht  a  Thorn- 
back  of  a  monftrous  iize,  that  having 
fwallowed  a  fifh  at  the  hook,  found  him- 
-felf  unable  to  get  rid  of  his  prey. 

On  the  26th  of  June  we  {et  fail  for 
Europe,  but  the  wind,  being  in  the  north 
weft,  continued  unfavourable  till  the  4th 
of  July,  when  it  went  round  to  the  fouth 
caft,  and  we  made  a  quick  run  towards 
the  north. 

On  the  14th  we  got  to  the  20°  24* 
fouthern  latitude,  and  51*  eaftern  longi- 
tude; where  100  pounds  of  fea  water  gave 
a  3  lb. 


142        VOYAGE  TO  THE  SOUTH  POLE. 

3  lb.  4-  of  fait.  The  23d  we  faw  the 
illand  of  Afcenfion,  but  in  fpite  of  the 
temptation  of  its  Turtle  we  continued  our 
courfe.  On  the  28th  we  crolTed  the  Line 
under  the  ig°  of  weftern  longitude.  On 
the  3d  and  4th  of  Augufl  we  fpoke  with 
vellels,  bound  from  New  England  for  the 
whale  iifhery  on  the  coafl:  of  Africa,  who 
told  us  they  had  loft  fight  of  the  Cape 
de  Verd  iilands  three  days.  The  wind  con- 
tinued in  the  north  eaft  till  the  26th, 
when  we  found  ourfelves  in  26 '^  north 
latitude,  and  44^  weft  longitude.  The 
weft  winds,  which  are  extremely  pre- 
valent in  thofe  parts,  carried  us  rapidly 
eaftward.  On  the  7th  of  September  we 
arrived  in  the  Sound  off  the  coaft  of  Bri- 
tany,  and  next  day  dropped  anchor  in  the 
road  of  Breft. 


A  VOY- 


A 

VOYAGE 

TOWARDS   THE  NORTH   POLE, 

IN     THE    YEAR    1776. 


CHAP.       XVIL 

Conjiderations  on  the  Diverjity  of  the  Clmates, 

Jituated    under    equal  Latitudes,    towards 

the  two  Poles — T^be  -probable  Caufes  of  this 

fmgular  Difference — The    CVunates  which 

are   the   leafi    uniform,     with   Rejpeëî  to 

Heat  and  Cold,    are  the  mofi  for  my — The 

Author,  with  a   View  to  many  ifeful  Ob^ 

jeëîs,  determines    to    penetrate   as  far  as 

poffible  towards    each  Pole,   and  embarks 

accordingly  at  Toulon. 

AVING  in  former  voyages  ^fited 
-s.  many  parts  of  the  terraqeous  globe 
in  diiferent  latitudes,  I  had  opportunities 
of  acquiring  a  confiderable  knowledge  of 
climate  in  the  torrid  as  well  as  in  the  tem- 
perate divifions  of  the  earth;  in  a  fubfequent 

voyage. 


144      VOYAGE  TO  THE    NORTH  POLE. 

voyage,  Î  made  it  my  bulinefs  to  be  equally 
well  informed  reipeâ:ing  the  reputed  inhof- 
pitable  genius  of  the  South  Seas;  and  upon 
my  return  from  that  expedition,  which 
extended  beyond  the  ordinary  tra6l  of  navi- 
gators, three  hundred  leagues  diredily  fouth, 
and  confifted  in  all  of  more  than  a  thoufand 
leagues,  performed  in  three  months,  in  the 
mildefl:  feafon  of  the  year,  I  entertained 
not  the  fmaliefl  doubt,  that  there  exifts  a 
peculiar  and  perpetual  rigor  in  the  fouthern 
hemifphere. 

Surprifed  as  I  vv^as  at  fo  great  a  difparity 
of  climate  in  correfponding  latitudes  tov^ards 
the  two  poles,  I  had  a  flrong  defire  to  be 
enabled  to  give  fome  account  of  this  extra- 
ordinary phenomenon  in  the  conftitution  of 
the  globe.  Northward,  I  obferved  a  fea 
of  very  great  extent,  in  whofe  high  latitudes 
one  would  naturally  exped:  angry  and  tem- 
peftuQais  climates  ;  but  it  ihould  feem  that 
the  ice,  extending  over  a  great  proportion  of 
its  furface,  qualifies,  from  the  quiefcent 
ilate  of  its  own  atmofphere,  the  afperity 
of  the  elements  in  thefe  frozen  res-ions. 
I   fhould  therefore   refer    the    intemperate 

con- 


VOYAGE   TO   THE   NORTH   POLE.      I45 

ftitution  of  fouthern   climates  to  the  pro- 
diîïious  extent    of    an   almoft    unbounded 
ocean,  which  intirely  abforbs  the  folar  rays; 
and  this  opinion  derives   confiderable  cre- 
dibihty  from   the  report  of  mariners,  who 
fail  between  Manilla  and   Acapulco,    a  fea 
in  length    and   breadth  next  to  the  fouthern 
ocean,    the  mod    cxtenfive  on   the   globe* 
They  tell  us,  that  this  fea  is  fubjed:  to  very 
high  and  tempcfluous  winds  5  and    that  on 
the  confines  of  the  American  ihore,  though 
they  feldom  fiil  into  a  higher  latitude  than 
forty  degrees,  they  often  fall  in  with  floating 
ice,  fea-wolves,   and  white  bears,  appear- 
ances which  are  flrong  indications  of  a  rude 
and  inhofpitable  atmofphere.      I  then  con- 
fidered  ihe  difference  of  climate  under  fmii- 
lar  latitudes  in  the  Atlantic,  particularly  on 
the  coafls  of  Europe  and  America.     The 
latter,    compared    with    the    continent    of 
Europe,  is  of  narrow  limits;  it  contains  vafl 
lakes,   is    overfpread   by   extenfive    forefts, 
and  prefents  to  the  rays  of  the  fun  a  furface 
equally  vacillating  and   unflable  with   that 
of  the  ocean.     Europe,  on  the  contrary,  is 
of  very  large  extent  :  all  of  it,  in  fome  degree 
Vol.  III.  L  of 


146      VOYAGE  TO   THE   NORTH   POLE. 

of  impruvement,  ,  receives  the  united  in- 
fluences of  the  great  continent,  and  as  it 
confines  and  hems  in  the  north  feas,  by 
many  confiderable  iflands,  is  in  every  re- 
fpedl  better  formed  for  refleding  the  folar 
rays.  Hence  in  the  cHmates  of  Great- Bri- 
tain and  Germany  We  find  fcarceîy  any 
thing  analogous  to  the  incefTant  fogs  and 
boiflerous  winds  of  the  Labradore  coafl,  and 
fouth  cape  of  Greenland. 

Thus  I  obferved,  that  in  parallel  latitudes, 
the  South  Sea  being  of  vaflly  greater  extent, 
embracing  aîmoft  tlie  v/hole  circumference 
of  the  globe,  is  likev/ife  much  more  fuormy 
i  and  tempefluous  than  the  Pacific  Ocean , 
that  the  latter  being  of  larger  bounds  is 
alfo  more  tempeftuous  and  turbulent  than 
the  x^tlantic;  whilil  the  Atlantic  is  more 
rou?h   and   ferocious  towards    the  narrow 

o 

and  wild  country  of  America,  than  towards 
the  vafl  and  improved  continent  of  Europe. 
In  my  excurfions  round  the  world,  I 
made  fome  remarks  on  the  varieties  inci- 
dent to  the  torrid  zone;  and  fhall  obferve 
in  general,  that  from  one  pole  to  another 
the  climate,  in  proportion  as  it  is  uniform 

or 


VOYAGE   TO  THE    NORTH   POLE.     1 47 

6r  fluduating  in   temperature,  is   more  or 
lefs  infefted    with    abrupt  and    impetuous 
ivinds.     To  be  fatisfied  of  the  truth  of  this 
obfervation,    we  have  only  to  mark  what 
paffes  on  the  cold  extremities  of  the  tem- 
perate zones.    There  the  hoar  froft,  genera- 
ted  on    the   fpot,  or   wafted   thither  from 
colder  regions  in  their  vicinity,  is  convert- 
ed into  vapour  by  a  fudden  encreafe  of  the 
heat  of  the  atmofphere  ;  and  fuch  viciffi- 
tudes  of  temperature,  happening  in  quick 
fucceilion,    give  occafion  to  violence,    and 
a  fort  of  caprice,  in  the  operations  of  the 
winds.       The   oppofite  extremities  of  the 
fame  zones,    which    border  on   the  torrid, 
fhare  in  the   more  uniform  teneur  of  that 
diviiioQ  of  the  globe.     The   frozen   zones, 
being    for  ever  in  a  very  low   temperature, 
with  little    variety  of   heat  and  cold,    are 
but  feldom  troubled  with  high  winds  j  in 
them   the  energies  of  nature  may  be  faid  to 
be  in  a  confiant  ftate  of  comparative  repofe, 
and  are  confequently  lefs  liable  to  any  vio- 
lent  fermentation    than    in    the    temperate 
zones.      In  the  "torrid,    on   the   contrary, 

L  2  nature 


148       VOYAGÉ   TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

nature  feems  to  keep  the  elements  in  an 
unvaried  ftate  of  vigor  and  adivity. 

The  more  I  revolved  thefe  ideas  in  my 
mind,  the  more  anxioufly  I  courted  an  op- 
portunity of  afcertaining  their  veracity  v^^ith 
my  own  eyes.  I  wifhed  to  furvey  the  cli- 
mates in  the  vicinity  of  the  pole,  in  their 
whole  extent  north  and  fouth,  to  compare 
them,  and  to  contraft  their  peculiarities 
with  thofe  of  the  torrid  zone,  all  round  the 
globe,  for  the  accomplifhment  of  which 
purpofes,  there  was  now  but  little  wanting^ 
except  a  voyage  to  the  north  feas.  As  I 
wifhed  likewife  to  bring  under  one  view 
the  various  obftacles  ariling  from  the  ice^ 
which  have  impeded  the  refearches  of  navi- 
gators in  thofe  feas,  I  was  prepared  to  con- 
tinue my  voyage  northward  to  as  high  a 
latitude  as  pofiible;  and  having  heard  of 
no  navigator  whatever,  who  had  taken 
the  fmallefl;  notice  of  the  different  expedi- 
ents that  might  be  oppofed  to  the  difficulties 
of  the  ice,  by  fuch  as  would  penetrate  lo 
the  pole,  I  was  much  inclined  to  think  I 
(hould  be  able  to  fupply  this  defeft  in  the 

5  annals 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE,      I49 

annals  of  navigation.  Intending  to  diredl 
my  courfe  towards  the  north  and  weft  of 
Spitzberg,  and,  piercing  through  the  ice 
beyond  80°.  of  latitude,  to  traverfe  that 
region  which  is  a  kind  of  depofit  or  magazine, 
whence  a  rife  the  numberlefs  fhoals  that  are 
feen  floating  towards  Iceland,  and  the 
coaft  of  America,  I  hoped  alfo  to  be  able 
to  fay,  from  my  own  obfervation,  whether 
any  land  adtually  exifts  northward  from 
the  coaft  of  Greenland;  and  in  fine  to  con- 
fult  the  gratification  of  a  private  curiofity, 
by  attending  to  fuch  objects  of  natural  hif- 
tory,  as  might  fall  in  my  way,  particular- 
ly the  native  animals  of  thofe  feas. 

Being  on  board  a  frigate  at  Toulon, 
which  was  \inder  failing  orders  for  the  port 
of  Breft,  I  made  application  to  the 
minifter  of  my  department  for  leave  of 
abfence,  and  entered  direâ:ly  upon  the  exe- 
cution of  my  enterprize.  This  pafiage 
afforded  me  an  opportunity  of  vifiting  Gib- 
raltar, a  very  ftrong  and  important  fortrefs, 
in  which  the  art  of  man  has  only  improved 
upon  nature,  in  fupplying  the  little  that  was 

L  7  ^-equifite 


150    VOYAGE   TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

requifite  for  the  corr\pletion  of  her  bold 
deiign.  On  my  arrival  at  Breft,  I  had 
the  pleafure  to  meet  the  minijfter's  appro- 
bation of  my  intended  voyage,  and  prepared 
to  proceed  to  Holland,  vv^here  I  had.no_ 
doubt  I  fhould  find  a  fhip  deftined  for  the 
North  Seas. 


CHAP.     XVIIL 

Voyage  from  Brejî  to  the  Doivns — Tajfoge, 
thence  to  Calais — Journey,  by  the  Canals 
of  F  landers  y  the  Metfe,  and  Holland,  to 
Amjîerdara — Comparifon  bttuDeen  Auftrlan 
Flanders  and  Hollandy  with  HefleBions 
on  the  latter  Country,  and  the  CharaBer 
of- its  Inhabitants, 

T  1  AVING  departed  the  nth  of  March, 
X  X  I  arrived  at  Cancaile  the  1 6th,  and 
refumed  my  voyage  the  18th,  on  board 
a  veffel  bound  for  the  river  Thames.  We 
fleered  between  theiilands  Jerfey  and  Guern- 
fey,  then    between  the    Stark   and    Aran, 

and 


VOYAGE   TO  THE   NORTH  POLE,     I5I 

and  afterwards  between  Alderney  and  the 
eoafl:  of  Normandy.  In  this  courfe  the  Light 
houfe  on  the  Caflcets  was  of  very  great  ufe 
to  us  j  but  we  now  made  a  tack  towards  the 
coaft  of  England,  it  being  lefs  incumber- 
ed with  rocks  than  the  French  (hore. 
The  ferene  afpeâ:  of  the  fea  and  fky,  in  a 
feafon  but  little  advanced,  produced  an 
agreeable  furprifc;  an  Indian  canoe  might 
have  accompliflied  the  navigation  with  all 
fafety. 

On  the  2ifl:,  v/e  pafTed  Dover  caftle, 
and  the  Eaft  point  of  England.  The  Light- 
houfes  on  two  ftrips  of  land,  called  North 
and  South  Foreland,  are  of  equal  benefit  to 
commerce  and  the  interefts  of  humanity; 
fuch  objedts  of  national  police  feem  to  be 
under  better  re.^ulations  in  this  ifland  than 
in  the  kingdom  cf  France.  We  now  an- 
chored in  the  Downs,  where  we  met  a  con- 
iiderable  fleet  of  merchant  fhips  \vaiting 
an  Eailerly  wind  to  fall  down  the  ChanneL 
I  difembarked  at  a  fmall  open  town,  named 
Deal,  ftanding  on  a  flat,  between  two  anci- 
ent cailles,  of  little  moment  for  national 
defence;    but    finding    no  opportunity   at 

L  4  this 


152      VOYAGE   TO   THE   NORTH   POLE. 

this  place  of  croiTing  to  Holland,  the  third 
day  after  my  arrival,  I  fetout  for  Dover.  Ha-» 
ving  been  accuflomed  to  conllder  the  cii-. 
mate  of  this  country  much  colder  than  that;- 
of  France,  I  was  ailoniflied  at  the  mildnefs 
of  the  air,  the  charming  verdure  of  the  fields, 
the  trees  in  blolTom,  and  the  fpring  in  ge- 
neral in  a  m.ore  forward  ftate  than  I  had 
left  it  in  my  own  country.  Dover  proper- 
ly çonfifts  of  two  towns,  both  fituated  in 
a  bottom,  and  is  overlooked  by  very  high 
cliffs,  whence  I  fhould  fuppofe  it  not  fa- 
voured by  a  very  wholefome  atmofphere, 
North  from  the  harbour  ilands  a  caille, 
commanding  the  town  and  fea-fliore^  a 
fortrefs,  which  feems  of  at  leafl  equal  anti- 
quity with  thofe  of  Deal,  but  much  more 
conliderable  in  point  of  ftrength.  My 
time  was  too  fhort  in  England  to  enable 
me  to  form  an  opinion  of  the  national  cha- 
rader;  but  I  readily  prefume  there,  is  a 
great  difference  in  urbanity  of  manners 
between  the  natives  in  the  inland  country, 
and  fuch  as  a  firanger  meets  v/ith  in  the 
maritime  parts  of  the  ifland, 

I  landed 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.  15^^ 

I  landed  in  the  harbour  of  Calais  the 
24th,  and  proceeded  to  Holland  by  the 
Flemilli  canals,  a  route  which  afforded  me 
a  fight  of  Greveline,  Dunkirk,  Newport, 
Bruges,  and  Eclufe;  and  failing  along  that 
arm  of  the  fea  which  borders  on  Zeland, 
and  the  canals  of  the  Meufe  and  Holland, 
I  faw  Flufhing,  Middleburgh,  Vellumfland, 
Dort,  Rotterdam,  Delf,  and  Leyden, 
and  on  the  2d  of  April  reached  the  city  of 
Amfterdam. 

I  fhould  prefer  the  quiet  and  eafy  con- 
dition of  the  Fleming  to  the  reftlefs  toil 
and  buille  of  the  Hollander.  The  country 
of  the  latter,  however,  offers  to  the  eye 
of  the  traveller,  numberlefs  canals  of  great 
capacity  and  magnificence  ;  many  fine 
towns  almoft  afloat  ;  country  feats;  parks 
and  gardens  in  which  a  tafle  for  expence 
and  elegance  is  equally  confpicuous;  and  Tea 
dikes,  the  extent,  folidity,  and  elevation 
of  which,  mark  a  fpirit  of  the  moll  daring 
as  well  as  judicious  enterprize.  One  is 
indeed  aftonifhed  at  the  incredible  labour 
employed  by  thefe  creators  of  their  country; 
firfl:  in  wrefting   it   from  the  waves,  then 

in 


154     VOYAGE    TO   THE   NORTH    POLE, 

in  improving  and  embelîifliing  it,  and,  lafl  of 
all,  in  defending  its  boundaries  againft  the 
irruptions  of  the  ocean.  But  after  all,  what 
are  the  Dutch  but  a  race  of  illuflrious  exiles, 
in  a  manner  bound  to  the  fands  of  the  fea. 
My  eyes  were  con  flan  tly  abroad  in  admiration, 
but  m.y  heart  was  filent.  On  one  Has  lie  fields, 
v^/hich,  having  been  deluged  by  a  fudden 
inroad  of  the  fea,  require  all  the  art  and  in- 
duftry  of  man  to  reflore  even  to  the  condition 
of  a  morafs.  On  the  other,  multitudes  of 
machines  appear  in  confiiant  operation  to 
empty  the  fiocd  into  an  adjacent  canal  ; 
but  a  florm  arifes,  and  the  whole  is  anni- 
hilated in  a  moment.  The  application  of 
windqTiills  to  almofc  every  fpecies  of  manual 
induflry,  I  regard  as  a  certain  proof  that 
with  all  the  ground  recovered  from  the  fea, 
at  fuch  an  amazing  expence  of  labour  and 
anxiety,  the  foil  is  by  no  means  equal  to  the 
maintenance  of  the  inhabitants.  Their 
cities,  Vv'hich  are  erected  on  piles,  fcarcely 
able  to  fudain  their  burthen,  feem  in  con- 
fiant jeopardy  of  dilfolving  in  the  waters. 
The  dikes  conilrudcd  as,  barriers  againft 
the  ocean,    as  v/cll  as  others  in   the  inland 

country:»^ 


VOYAGE   TO   THE   NORTH   POLE.      I55 

country,  are  undermined,  or  fuddenly 
fvvept  away  by  the  ravages  of  the  fea,  or 
the  violence  of  a  river,  which  commit 
alternate  dévaluation  in  the  provinces^  The 
air  itfelf,  of  an  infalubrioas  quahty,  feems 
to  forbid  man  to  occupy  a  country,  which 
nature  never  intended  for  his  ufe.  In  the 
great  towns,  the  traveller  meets  with  feme 
handfome  buildings  ;  a  commerce  which 
^ggrandifes  a  few  lofty  individuals;  fliip- 
ping,  the  lize  and  number  of  which  de- 
note the  exteniive  fpeculations  of  their 
owners.  But  the  houfcs  in  tov/n  and  coun- 
try are  deferted  by  the  poorer  fort;  a  race 
cf  men  who  may  be  fiid  to  fubmit  to  per- 
petual exile,  and  all  the  perils  of  the  ocean, 
in  earning  a  little  pittance  for  their  families, 
the  hovel  they  live  in,  a  few  roots,  and 
a  fmall  portion  of  rye  for  their  fubfiflence; 
men,  in  ihort,  the  fvveat  of  whofe  brows, 
whofe  ftrength  and  life  itfelf,  often  fall  a 
facrifice  to  the  eafe  and  convenience  of  the 
rich.  I  can  thmk  of  nothing  to  v/hich 
Holland  may  more  properly  be  compared, 
^han  a  traâ:  of  country  that  has  been  under- 
mined,  and   almoli  floated  by    the   ocean  i 

but 


156    VOYAGE   TO   THE   NORTH   POLE. 

but  which  retaining  a  varnifh  of  green  turf, 
incorporated  with  the  adjacent  foil,  and 
bound  together  by  the  roots  of  its  own 
produâiîons,  is  preferved  for  a  while  from 
final  dilTolution.  Such  vegetables  as  are 
unable  to  extend  their  fibres  to  the  foîid 
ground,  peri/h;  but  as  they  decay  become 
foil  for  others.  If  a  tree  happens  to  fpring 
up,  the  tender  roots  will  fufcain  it  a  little; 
but  fhouid  it  thrive  and  increafe  in  fize, 
the  thin  foil  which  ferves  it  as  a  bafe  gra- 
dually gives  way,  and  the  tree  falls  to  the 
ground.  The  Dutch  appear  to  poiTefs  a 
certain  ferenity  of  mind^  they  have  fome 
good  qualities,  are  a  little  roguifh  and 
covetous  of  money,  but  generally  in  the 
iljle  of  honeft  people. 


CHAP. 


Voyage  to  the  north  pole.    157 

CHAP,      XIX. 

T^he  Author  embarks  in  the  Texelfir  Spitz-» 
berg — P^llf^ig^  through  the  German 
Ocean  to  the  lËaJî  of  Norway-^New 
Experiments  on  Sea-water — -And  ReJleC" 
tions  on  the  Mode  of  living  of  the  Nor-* 
ivegians  and  Lîhabitants  of  Greenland, 

I  Remained  in  Holland  only  three  weeks  -, 
the  merchants,  to  whom  I  had  letters 
of  recommendation,  affiiling  me  with 
their  good  offices,  I  found  a  fliip  bound 
for  the  feas  of  Spitzberg,  and  failed  from 
the  Texel  on  the  16th  of  April,  1776.  We 
fell  down  the  river  by  the  fouthcrn  pafTage^ 
which  is  cfleemed  the  ùk^f  and  is  formed 
by  the  coafl  and  fand  banks,  which  extend 
two  leagues  into  the  fea.  We  then  ftood 
N.  ~  N.  W.  acrofs  the  German  ocean, 
which  has  foundings  in  its  whole  extent 
as  far  as  the  Etland  idands.  The  Sound, 
however,  is  very  irregular,  owing  to  fre- 
quent fand  banks,  which. afford  plentiful 
filheries  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  Tea  coaft. 
Of  thefe  fands,    the  moft   confiderable  is 

the 


158      VbYACÉ   TO   THE   NdRTH   POLE; 

the  Dogger-bank,  which   runs   N.  E.  and 
W.  S.  VV.  nearly  in  the  form  of  a  proje6tioii 

of  the  cone,   having  the  bafé   towards  the 

I.. 

weft  fouth  weft;  Its  mean  breadth  ié 
fourteen  leagues,  and  its  center  is  in  latitude 
^^^  5".  Its  moft  wefterly  point  is  fifteen 
leaî^ues  from  the  Ensrliili  coaft,  and  its 
moft  eafterly  twenty-four  from  the  coaft 
of  Jutland.  Such  parts  of  the  Bank,  as 
lie  fouth,  and  fouth  Vv^eft,  have  the  leaft 
depth  of  v/ater,  it  being  only  from  nine 
to  eighteen  fathoms;  w^iile  eaft  and  north 
the  Sound  has  from  twenty  to  thirty  fathoms; 
without  its  fouthern  extremities  the  lead 
gives  twenty-five^  and  without  its  northern, 
forty  or  forty-five  fathoms.  On  the  17th 
we  arrived  in  the  latitude  of  55'"^  and  3r'' 
of  eaftern  longitude  from  the  meridian  of 
Paris;  the  variation  of  the  needle  being  18^ 
towards    the  north    weft.       Two   leagues 

o 

fouth  from  the  above  point  of  latitude  we 
had  fixteen  fathoms  ;  but  now,  at  kvcn  in. 
the  evening,  having  failed  ten  leagues  N; 
.J-  N.  W.  from  the  fame  point,  the  lead 
gave  us  twenty-four.  Tv/o  days  after/ 
being  five  leagues  fouth  of  57 '^  31 ''latitude 

and 


VOYAGE   TO   THE   NORTH   POLE.     I59 

and  2 1  ''  eaftern  longitude,  we  had  50  fa- 
thoms; and  ten  leagues  N.  -I-  N.  W.  from 
this  fécond  point,  our  foundings  were 
forty  five  fathoms.  The  currents  here, 
as  well  as  along  the  adjacent  main  land, 
run  northward;  but  on  the  coaft  ead  froni 
Scotland,  and  at  the  Shetland  ifles,  their 
diredion  is  towards  thefouth. 

On  the  20th,  in  latitude  59°  4"  the 
kad  gave  lixty-five  fithoms  foundings, 
which  we  retained  all  the  v/ay  to  the  lati- 
tude of  61^.  We  coailed  along  the  Shet- 
land iflands,  but  the  weather  was  hazy  and 
we  paffed  without  obferving  them.  The 
water  is  much  deeper  off  the  coaft  of 
Norway;  but  navigators  give  a  preference  to 
this  route,  becaufe  in  cafe  of  a  weflerly 
wind,  which  is  much  more  common  than 
a  wind  at  eaft,  the  fhip  can  eafily  run  into 
a  greater  depth  of  water.  The  diflance 
betwixt  the  two  coafls  is  about  forty-five 
leagues. 

Î  pradifcd  the  fame  experiments  in  my 
progrefs  north,  that  I  had  made  towards  the 
other  extremity  of  the  globe,  and  in  the 
latitude  of  64,*^  3o''and  2  ''eaftern  longitude, 

I  weighed 


î6o      VOYAGE   TO  THE  NORTH  POLE* 

I  weighed  i  oo  pounds  of  fea- water,  andfound 
that  it  contained  4I  pounds  of  fait.  In  latitude 
59^  ^^',  and  longitude  55'' the  fame  quan-^ 
tity  of  water  gave  only  34-  pounds  of  falt^ 
but  at  that  time  we  were  ftiil  within  the 
limits  of  the  German  ocean.  We  fpoke  with 
two  veflels  on  their  paffage  from  Drontheim. 
The  trade  of  Norway  Confifls  chiefly  of 
flockfifli,  train-oil,  and  copper.  In  the 
northern  part  of  this  province  the  climate 
is  too  cold  to  raife  corn  equal  to  the  fub- 
fiflence  of  the  inhabitants,  and  hence  they 
as  vv'ell  as  their  cattle,  have  been  forced  to 
have  recourfe  to  fifh  as  the  chief  means 
of  their  fupport;  the  fame  is  the  unhappy 
lot  of  the  Greenlanders  and  the  natives  of 
Iceland;  the  latter,  by  far  the  moft  mife^- 
rable  of  the  three,  derive  no  advantage 
whatever  from  their  foil,  and  are  indebted 
for  both  clothes  and  lodging  to  the  fkin 
of  the  fea- wolf.  A  flranger  is  ailonifhed 
at  the  avidity  with  which  the  Greenlander 
fwallows  his  whale  and  feal  oil.  When 
there  is  a  fcarcity  of  drifted  trees,  he  may 
be  kQi\  dreifing  his   iiih  and   warming  his 

fingers 


VOYAGE  To  THE   NORTH   POLE.     l6l 

fingers  at   a  wretched  fire  of  matches  kept 
burning  with  train  oil. 

On  the  23d,  our  latitude  being  66^  27* 
with  one  degree  48''  of  longitude,  a  bub- 
bling appearance  on  the  furface  of  the 
water  admonifhed  us  of  currents,  the 
dirediion  of  which  we  found  to  be  towards 
the  north.  We  faw  a  fpecies  of  fea  fowl 
called  Malmoque;  it  fnowed  in  large  fleaks, 
and  Reaumaur's  thermometer  flood  a  frac- 
tion above  4°.  The  cold,  as  well  as  the 
afpedl  of  the  Ikies,  was  much  the  fame 
as  in  the  South  Seas;  but  there  is  one  mate- 
rial difference  between  the  two  climates, 
and  it  is  this,  that  here  the  weather  being; 
almofl  quite  calm  the  cold  is  uniform, 
whereas  in  the  fouth,  being  introduced 
by  high  winds,  it  is  capricious  and  irregu- 
lar; befides,  the  feafon  was  greatly  more 
advanced  in  the  latter  than  in  the  former 
climate. 

On  the  26th,  we  ceafed  to  have  the 
return  of  night;  I  read  eafily  at  120  clock 
P.  M.  without  the  light  of  a  candle,  and 
could  diflinguifh  objecfls  at  the  diflance  of 
three   leagues   from    the  iliip;    meanwhile 

Vol.  Ill,  M  our 


102    VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

our  latitude  was  68^  t"  of  declination,  and 
confequently  the  fun  was  8°  below  the 
horizon,  " 


CHAP.      XX. 

l^he  north  Cape  of  the  great  Continent  is 
pajjed^  and  IJlands  of  Ice  encountered-^ 
^hefe  large  Bodies  are  the  probable  Caufe 
of  a  great  and  fudden  Change  in  the  Wea- 
thert  which  now  becomes  remarkably 
ferene — The  curious  Appearances  the  Ice 
exhibits  j  and  the  Manner  of  navigating 
through  the  little  Channels  it  forms, 

ON  the  30th,  we  iliot  north  of  the 
Cape  of  the  great  continent  on  which 
I'oyagers  have  engraved  the  following  in- 
fcription.  Hie  Jietimus  nobis  ubi  defuit 
Or  bis,  **  Here  ends  our  voyage  where 
**  the  world  fails  us".  The  mercury  re- 
mained three  days  conftantly  below  froft; 
we  had  unremitting  fnow,  which,  being 
generated  in  very  cold  regions,  fell  not  in 
the  ordinary  form  of  fleaks,  but  in  that 
of  thin  fcales,  fmall  ilars,  or  like  the  down 
6  of 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.      163 

of  the  catterpillar.  Sometimes  the  weather 
was  fine,  and  this  very  day,  though  the 
thermometer  flood  in  the  fliade,  a  little 
more  than  one  degree  below  frofi:,  when 
expofed  to  the  fun  in  a  window  fheltered 
from  the  wind,  it  rofe  to  25^  :  the  ice, 
however,  did  not  melt  in  the  fmalleft  de- 
gree on  deck.  The  fky  was  much  more 
beautiful  than  in  the  fouth,  though  the 
cold  was  adually  more  intenfe,  but  without 
the  fame  trouble  and  difagreeable  fenfation. 
The  2d  of  May,  the  wind  blew  frefh 
from  the  fouth  eaft,  and  this  was  only 
the  fécond  inftance  fince  we  failed  of  a 
frefh  wind,  which  on  both  occafions 
came  from  the  quarter  of  the  fouth  ^  the 
cold  was  extremely  piercing,  though  the 
mercury  was  3^  only  belOw  froft.  The 
water,  dafhed  over  our  heads  by  a  flrong 
wind,  froze  on  the  deck  and  rigging;  while 
the  fea  formed  a  kind  of  hoop  about  the 
fides  of  the  veflel,  confifting  of  an  incruf- 
tation  three  inches  in  thicknefs.  Never- 
thelefs  I  was  furprized  to  find  a  climate  in 
fo  high  a  latitude  fo  little  fubjedl  to  violent 
winds.  Next  day  we  crofTcd  the  77^  14''  of 
M  2  obferved 


164       VOYAGE   TO   THE   NORTH   POLEj 

obferved  latitude,  our  longitude  being  3^ 
12''  eaft  ;  and  the  variation  of  the  needle 
19^  towards  the  north  weft;  a  direction 
it  retained  the  whole  of  the  voyage* 

We  were  overtaken  by  the  above  high 
winds  in  a  very  unfeafonable  moment; 
for  at  five  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the 
30th  of  May,  having  reached  the  ice,  we 
had  rather  precipitately  preffed  the  fhip 
among  the  ilioals.  It  is  very  unadvifeable 
however  to  enter  the  ice  if  it  can  be  avoided, 
with  a  high  wind,  fince  not  having  it 
in  your  power  to  moor,  you  are  obliged  to 
keep  under  fail,  confcious  that  the  violent 
ftrokes  received  from  the  flioals  may  be 
attended  with  the  moft  ferious  confe- 
quences. 

I  obferved  with  fome  furprize,  that  in 
proportion  as  we  advanced  into  the  ice, 
the  winds  moderated  and  the  heavens 
increafed  in  ferenity  and  beauty;  infomuch, 
that  while  we  enjoyed  the  fineft  weather  in 
the  world,  I  faw  at  the  horizon,  the  region 
we  had  but  lately  quitted  dark  and  pro- 
bably embroiled  with  a  ftronggale.  I  can- 
not confider  this  fudden  change  of  weather 

as 


VOYAGE  TO  THE   NORTH  POLE.      165 

as  the  effed:  of  accident,  but  rather  as 
ariling  from  the  phyfical  conftitution  of 
the  Frozen  Zone;  a  point  which  I  ex- 
amined afterwards  with  confiderable  atten- 
tion, as  will  be  feen.  in  its  place.  The 
mercury  rofe  in  the  fun  to  23^,  and  fell 
in  the  ihade  to  2^  below  frofl. 

At  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  dif- 
covered  the  fnowy  mountains  on  the  bays 
of  Clock  and  Havrifound;  the  firft,  in 
the  N.  E.  and  the  other  in  the  E.  -^  S.  E. 
at  the  diflance  of  iixteen  leagues.  Thefe 
mountains  are  fituated  northward  from 
their  refpedive  bays.  The  mountains  of 
Clock  may  be  diftinguifhed  by  their  fupe- 
rior  magnitude  and  lofty  crefts,  which  fuf- 
tain  a  nui^iber  of  funimits  rifing  to  a  point. 
Spitzberg,  as  I  am  told,  lignifies  a  conical 
topped  mountain,  and  is  derived  from 
the  great  frequency  of  this  appearance  in 
that  country. 

The  fou  th  wind  having  drifted  thefhoals 
back  from  the  open  fea  in  great  quantities, 
our  prefent  navigation  became  fomewhat 
embarraffing;  the  greateft  diftance  between 
the  flioals,  as  far  as  I  could  fee,  did  not 
M  3  exceed 


l66      VOYAGE   TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

exceed  one  cable's  length,  and  this  inter- 
val was  commonly  occupied  by  an  icy 
wreck.  The  fhoals  indeed  were  not  very 
extend ve,  none  of  them  appearing  more 
than  two  hundred  yards  in  length;  a  cir- 
cumftance  which  is  owing  to  their  having 
been  broken  by  concuffion  in  their  paiTage 
from  the  welt  coaft  of  Nova  Zembla  and 
the  Straits  of  NafTau. 

Thus  far,  however,  our  navigation  had 
received  little  interruption;  but  being  now 
in  a  very  high  latitude,  we  met  with  muU 
titudes  of  Ihoals,  which  fometimes  united 
by  a  fort  of  fnowy  cement,  and  prefented  the 
appearance  of  an  extenfive  coafl.  The 
coafts  of  ice,  which  are  very  common  in 
fome  parts  of  thofe  feas,  are  feparated  by 
a  channel  often  barely  large  enough  to  ad- 
mit the  veffel,  and  generally  terminate  in 
a  kind  of  bay.  Some  of  thefe  large  mafles 
appear  flationary,  projeâ:ing  in  Capes  and 
Promontories,  while  others  drift  freely 
with  the  current. 

The  little  noife  and  buftle  occafioned  in 
navigating  the  fhip,  the  tranquillity  of  a 
frozen  fea,  and  the  llilnefs  of  an  unrufled 

atmofphere. 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.      167 

atmofphere,  difFufe  a  mournful  filence 
over  the  face  of  thofe  fnowy  regions;  a 
filence  which  is  only  interrupted  by  the 
cries  of  the  Retchis,  as  ihe  flits  from  one 
fhoal  to  another,  or  by  the  undulations  of 
the  water  in  the  crevices  and  cavities  of 
the  ice.  Whoever  has  furveyed  the  afpe(ft 
of  a  country  merged  in  the  floods  of  winter, 
and  prefenting  every  prominent  feature 
tipped  with  fnow,  can  form  to  himfelf 
a  pretty  adequate  notion  of  the  landfcape 
now  in  my  eye.  The  hedges,  trees,  houfes, 
hamlets,  even  to  the  walls  of  the  cloiflicr,  are 
all  faithfully  delineated  on  the  furface  of 
this  extenfive  flioal. 

The  management  of  the  rudder  now 
became  an  objedt  of  anxious  folicitude. 
The  captain,  taking  his  place  at  the  mail 
head,  made  it  his  buiinefs  to  defcry  from 
a  diflance  the  moft  navigable  channel, 
while  two  pilots  Rationed  in  the  flirouds, 
one  on  each  flde  of  the  fliip,  gave  notice 
to  the  helmfman  hov/  he  might  avoid 
the  adjacent  fhoals.  The  feamen  arrang- 
ed themfelves  abaft,  and  endeavoured  to 
facilitate  the  fhip's  progrefs  by  means  of 
M  4  polec,- 


l68       VOYAGE   TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

poles,    at   leaft    twenty  feet    long,     with 
which   they  either  funk  or   diflodged    the 
larger  fragments.       Sometimes    a  ftrip   of 
ice,  of  moderate  fize  and  thicknefs,  inter- 
cepting   our    navigation,     we    charged     it 
with  refokition  ;    and   the   momentum   of 
the  vefTel  bore  down  all  refinance.     Some- 
times   fleering   parallel    and  clofe    to    the 
flioals,      we    bruflied    away    innumerable 
beautiful   criflalizations  that  projected  from 
their  fides.     If  the   Channel,  as  it   fome- 
times  happens,    terminated  in   an  Ifthmus 
of  recent  ice,   we  fet  with  fome  advantage 
our  fails,  and  the  fliip,    with  the  affiftance 
of  the  feame»,   who  broke    the  ice  before 
her,  forced  her  way  into  an  adjoining  chan- 
nel.      If  we    could    difcover    no   poiTible 
means  of  perfevering  in  a  diredl  line,    but 
obferved  on  one  fide  of  us  a  navigable  chan- 
nel,   from  which  we  were   excluded  only 
by   a  piece  of   practicable   ice,    deadening 
thç  fhip's  motion  by  backing  the  fails,   we 
came  up  to  it  at  an  articulation  of  the  fhoal, 
when  the  leeward  lide  of  the  velfel,  burn- 
ing the  fnowy  cemçnt,    opened    a   paiTage 
into  a    new  routCi.  and   then   fetting  our 

fails. 


yOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.       169 

fails,  we  again  recovered  the  wind,  and 
continued  our  voyage.  The  fhocks  we 
fuftained  in  fuch  fituations  were  to  me 
very  alarming;  and  I  was  not  a  little  fur- 
prized  at  the  phlegm  and  indifference  of 
my  patient  Dutchman  under  all  the  cir- 
cumflances  of  thefe  violent  efforts.  The 
iliip  was  low  rigged,  very  ftrong,  and  in 
every  refped:  conjfl:rud:ed  for  the  prefent 
fervice;  had  her  mails  been  equally  tall 
with  thofe  of  ordinary  fliipping,  they 
would,  I  have  no  doubt,  on  feveral  occa- 
iions  have  been  carried  over  the  fide.  It 
was  particularly  the  bufinefs  of  the  crew 
to  pro  ted:  the  ftern,  as  it  is  by  no  means 
equally  ffrong  with  the  head,  and  confe- 
quently  more  liable  to  receive  damage  from 
the  impulfe  or  refinance  of  the  ice. 


CHAP. 


170      VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

CHAP.     XXI. 

Tbe  Pajfage  towards  the  North  is  completely 
blocked  up  by  the  Ice,  and  another  one 
fought — Manner  of  anchoring  on  an  IJland 
cf  Ice — Natural  Hijiory  of  the  Sea  Uni-; 
corn  and  Sword-fjh — The  Vejfel  is  com- 
pletely enclofed  by  the  Ice,  which  renders 
the  Navigation  impracticable — By  the 
Exertions  of  the  Crew  this  Dijiculty  is 
obviated, 

ON  the  4th  at  nine  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing,   the   paflage  northward   feemed 
completely*  fhut  up.    We  flood  eaft  and  wcfl 

in  quefl  of  another  channel  in  the  fame 
direction;  and  at  eleven,  hitting  upon  a 
place  where  the  ice  appeared  weak,  we 
forced  our  way  in  the  manner  already  dif- 
cribed.  It  was  ten  in  the  evening,  however, 
before  we  began  to  make  a  progrefs  towards 
the  north.  The  channel  feemed  univer- 
^Uy  clofed,  and  the  fhoals  too  long  and 
^ompaâ:  to  be  parted,  or  fet  in  motion  by 
any  manœuvre  of  the   fhip.      Meanwhile 

we 


VOYAGE   TO  THE   NORTH    POLE.      Ijl 

we  cruized  about  in  fearch  of  an  opening, 
tacking,  or  fuffering  ourfelves  to  be  drifted, 
according  as  room  was  afforded  us  in  the 
ice  :  but  not  an  inch  of  water  was  vifible 
in  the  quarter  of  the  north  ;  all  in  that  di- 
reâ:ion  was  one  fnowy  furfacc,  confifting 
of  fhoals  lately  cemented  by  the  freezing 
of  the  intermediate  channel.  The  fudden 
freezing  of  fea- water,  as  related  by  voyagers, 
now  ceafed  to  be  an  objed  of  my  aftonifhment  ; 
for  while  the  mercury  flood  at  3^,  and 
fometimes  only  2°,  below  frofl,  the  fea, 
in  fpite  of  the  /hip's  motion,  froze  fail 
around  her,  incircling  her  with  an  encruf- 
tation  of  ice.  Perhaps  the  tranquillity  of 
the  water  may  favour  the  congelation  of 
its  furface.  We  gained  a  little  weft  north 
wefl,  and  north  wefl;  but  the  weather 
fetting  in  hazy,  and  we  being  under  the  ne- 
cefTity  of  fhifting  our  courfe  with  much 
caution  and  forefight,  it  was  thought  pru- 
dent to  moor  upon  a  bank,  and  wait  the 
opening  of  the  ice  towards  the  north. 

The  manner  of  anchoring  on  the  ice  is 
fimple,  and  being  well  known  to  ail  who 
navigate   thofe  feas,    it   feems    unneceffary 

to 


172    VOYAGE   TO   THE   NORTH   POLE. 

detain  the  reader  by  any  minute  detail  of  the 
procefs.  A  party  of  the  crew  fet  off  in 
a  boat  with  a  pick  axe,  a  fhovel,  and  a 
crow  in  the  form  of  an  S  ;  the  failors, 
having  got  upon  the  bank,  clear  away  the 
fnow,  and,  making  a  hole  in  the  ice, 
hook  it  with  one  claw  of  that  inftrument; 
in  the  meantime  the  veffel  comes  to  wind- 
ward, with  the  ice  under  her  bow,  and 
throws  out  a  rope,  which  is  made  faft  to 
the  S,  when  the  lliip  begins  to  drift  like 
an  appendage  of  the  flioal.  This  operation 
is  very  much  the  fame,  whether  the  ice 
is  an  ifland  and  in  motion,  or  a  bank  and 
apparently  at  reft  ;  only  in  this  laft  cafe 
it  is  proper  to  be  extremely  watchful  of 
the  changes  fo  incident  to  thofe  large  maffes. 
Here  the  currents  bear  towards  the  north, 
with  confiderable  rapidity;  but  as  our  ifland 
drifted  fomewhat  eaftwardly,  we  fhifted  the 
crow  to  another,  whofe  diredtion  was  north 
weih  We  faw  many  whales,  of  which 
we  were  fortunate  enough  to  take  three; 
but  as  the  northern  whale  is  of  a  fmaller 
iizc,    than  that  more  to  the  weft,    I  referve 

any 


VOYAGE   TO  THE   NORTH  POLE.       I73 

any  obfervations   I  have  to  make  on  this 
animal  for  a  future  occafion. 

We  faw  Hkewife  numbers  of  the  Sea 
Unicorn,  an  animal  which  is  but  feldom 
feen  on  this  lide  of  80^  latitude.  The 
Unicorn  feems  to  be  the  friend  and  com- 
panion of  the  whale,  for  they  commonly 
appear  nearly  in  the  fame  place.  The  one 
and  the  other  refpire  or  blow  at  the  furface 
of  the  water.  A  Unicorn  of  the  largefl: 
iize  meafures  fifteen  feet  in  length,  is  of 
a  grey  colour  mixed  with  black,  and  fome- 
times  tiger  fpotted^  his  head  is  not  large 
and  conical  like  that  of  the  whale,  but 
rather  fmall  and  round  like  that  of  the  Sea 
Cow.  The  fnout  of  the  male  fends  off 
an  horizontal  tooth  or  horn,  fix  or  feven 
feet  in  length,  which  at  the  bafe  is  about 
the  thicknefs  of  a  man's  leg,  while  at  the 
oppofite  extremity  it  fcarcely  exceeds  that  of 
a  finger.  The  horn  has  all  the  luilre  and 
folidity  of  polifhed  ivory,  and  on  the  furface 
are  gutters  running  in  fpiral  lines. 

The  Sword-fiili  is  alfo  feen  at  times 
among  the  ice,  though  he  but  rarely  de- 
fcends  fo  far  from  the  more  frisfid  réglions 

of 


174      VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

of  the  pole.  He  is  from  twenty  three  to 
twenty-five  feet  long,  and  of  a  black 
colour;  the  fword  rifes  perpendicular  from 
his  back,  and  meafures  four  feet  in  length, 
with  the  concave    edge   towards  the   tail. 

As  the  Unicorn  is  the  friend,  fo  the  Sword 
Fifh  is  the  deadly  enemy  of  the  Whale,  to 
whom  he  gives  battle  in  a  troop,  headed  by 
a  leader  who  is  always  longer  in  fizc 
than  his  followers.  I  have  feen  the  Whale 
purfued,  and  fwimming  before  the  Sword 
Fifh  with  all  his  fpeed;  and  in  fome  of 
thofe  we  caught,  were  found  wounds  inflidled 
by  the  fab  re  of  that  warlike  animal. 

In  the  meantime,  the  ice  having  opened, 
we  had  drifted  confiderably  northward, 
infomuch  that  on  the  7th  we  were  in  79^ 
23''' latitude  and  in  longitude  4^  lo'^eaft; 
the  variation  of  the  needle  14^.  The  fame 
day,  however,  the  fhoals  returned,  and  began 
to  clofe  in  all  around  us,  leaving  only  here 
and  there  a  fmall  pool  of  water,  formed 
by  the  falient  angles  of  the  ice.  The  crew 
defcended  upon  the  ice,  and  partly  by  tow- 
ing the  fhip,  and  partly  by  pufhing  for- 
ward the  fhoals,  through   which  we  were 

defirous 


yoYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.      I75 

defirous  to  pafs,  endeavoured  to  free  us 
from  our  prefent  confinement;  but  a  dead 
calm  depriving  us  of  the  ufe  of  our  fails, 
our  utmofi:  exertions  were  intirely  inef- 
feélual . 

We  were  at  leifure  to  contemplate  a 
moft  beautiful  {ky  without  the  fligheft 
breath  of  wind;  the  mercury  rofe  in  the 
fun  from  2°  below  froft,  to  28^^;  at  eleven 
the  evening  before,     it   had    mounted    to 

20<^. 

On  the  loth  the  fhip  was  locked  in  by 
the  fhoals;  every  fluid  fpot  difappeared, 
leaving  us  the  difmal  profpe6t  of  one  ex- 
tended mafs  of  ice.  Our  beft  obferva- 
tions  placed  us  now  in  a  latitude  of  81^. 
The  fhoals  having  been  carried  eaft  and 
north  eaft  by  the  current,  often  remain 
here  for  a  long  time.  The  whole  expanfe 
of  the  horizon,  except  one  dark  fpeck  in 
the  fouth,  appeared  white  from  the  re- 
fle(5tion  of  the  fnow,  a  circumftance  which 
feemed  to  warn  us  that  the  fea  was  in  the 
fame  impenetrable  ftate  to  a  great  extent. 
The  wind  was  wefterly;  the  ice,  though 
every  where  fo  clofe  as  to  prevent  the  paf- 

fage 


176       VOYAGE   TO  THE  NORTH  PÙLÈ4 

fage  of  a  canoe,  was,  however,  not  very 
compad:;  and  apprehending  left  a  ftrong 
froft  fetting  in  might  cement  together  the 
fhoals,  and  render  every  means  of  efcape 
impra6ticable,  we  refolved  inftantly  to  at- 
tempt the  recovery  of  our  Uberty.  To  one 
as  inexperienced  as  myfelf,  our  iituation 
would  have  appeared  already  without  hope, 
but  my  companions,  confiding  in  their 
own  fkill  and  refources,  were  differently 
afFeâed,  and  went  boldly  to  attack  the  ice, 
where  it  feemed  to  be  fufceptible  of  the 
faialleft  refiilance.  We  hoifted  our  fails 
oppofite  to  the  place  we  meant  to  penetrate; 
a  part  of  the  crew  ftationed  on  each  fide 
of  the  veflel  pufhed  again  ft  her  in  order 
to  widen  the  channel,  while  the  men  on 
board  propelled  her  by  pu  filing  away  the 
ice  at  her  ftern.  The  united  force  of  the 
wind,  capftern,  and  poles,  producing 
a  violent  comprefTion  in  the  circumjacent 
flioals,  the  fliip  got  into  motion,  entering 
progreffively  into  places  which  but  a  little 
before  were  incapable  of  containing  our 
fmalleft  boat.  This  more  than  Herculean 
labour  lafted  all  the    nth  and  12th,  when 

we 


VOYAGE    TO   THE   NORTH   POLE.      I77 

we  at  lafh  conditded  the  fhip  into  a  region 
of  navigable  channels,  or  at  leaft  only  in- 
tommoded  with  fuch  recent  ice  as  was 
unable  to  obilruét  our  navigation. 


CHAP,       XXII, 

JDejcrjptîoîî  of  the  Varieties  of  Ice  e?7 countered 
on  this  Voyage — Reafons  ivhy  the  BritijJ} 
Ships  which  profecnted  northern  Discove-» 
ries  in  1773?  did  notfucceed  in  pénétra-^ 
ting  farther  towards  the  Pole — The  Au-^ 
thor  conjeBures  that  a  Voyage  to  the 
Pole  iff  elf  is  not  impojjible,  and  f apports 
his  Hypothefis  by  Keafonings. 


T 


"^HE  ice  from  its  various  modifica- 
tions is  named  iiicle,  ice,  ice  bank 
and  ifland  or  mountain  of  ice.  The  ificle 
implies  chips  or  fmall  ice  produced  from 
fridlion  or  preffurej  ice,  large  fragments 
from  four  to  a  thoufand  feet  in  length  ;  ice 
bank,  an  affemblage  of  flioals  confolidated 
by  the  froft,  and  meafuring  from  fix  to 
feven  leagues  in  extent;  the  iilands  or  moun- 
VoL.  Ill,  N  tains 


178      VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

tains   of    ice   cannot  be   faid  to   be   very 
cxtenfive,  but  they  are  extremely  high  above 
the  bafe,    drawing  fometimes  upwards   of 
twenty  fathoms   water.      They  are  gene- 
rated in  the  large  bays  and  rivers  of  North 
America;  nor  are  they  even  met  with  in 
thefe  feas.     The  higheft  ice  I  obferved  at 
any  time   on  this   voyage,  did  not   exceed 
thirty  or  thirty  five  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  fea.     On  the  i  ith,  our  latitude  was  80^ 
38'/,  longitude  4°  2fi  the  variation  of  the 
needle    14°.      We  took  the  advantage  of 
a  fair  wind,  and  the  opening  of  the  ice, 
to  fland  fouth  :  and  on  the    1 4th  came  in 
view  of  the  Devil's    Cape,    which  forms 
the  north  weft  point  of  Spitzberg.     Next 
day  the  wind   went  round  to  the  fouth, 
and  we  were  obliged  to   keep   upon  a  tack 
which  carried  us  at  times  within  a  league 
of  the  land;   the  variation  of  the   needle 
was  only  10^. 

Owing  to  the  violent  winds,  prevalent 
in  the  quarter  of  Spitzberg,  the  promon- 
tory in  which  the  land  terminates  has  been 
named  Cape  de  Diable.  North  north 
caft,    and  north  eaft  from  the  Cape,  the 

couQtry 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.    Ijg 

country  falls  away  towards  the  ifle  of 
Moffin,  and  the  coafl  of  Renneveld. 
Probably  thefe  boiderous  winds  do  not 
extend  fo  far  to  the  eaft;  for  the  fky  in 
that  quarter  appeared  ferene,  and  the  moun- 
tains in  beautiful  funfliinc,  while  we  were 
buffeted  about  under  a  mofl  difmal  atmof- 
phere. 

To  work  the  fliip,  circumflanced  as 
we  now  were,  was  a  matter  of  the  greatefl 
nicety;  but  were  not  at  liberty  to  charge 
the  ice  as  we  had  done  on  former  occafions, 
fince  in  a  motion  highly  accelerated  by 
the  wind,  the  veifel  might  have  received 
irreparable  damage  from  the  fhocks,  and 
yet  we  chofe  to  keep  under  fomefail,  rather 
than  to  moor  upon  ice,  which  drifted  fo 
rapidly  with  the  current.  Weft  from 
Spitzberg  the  currents  bear  northward; 
but  at  the  north  weft  point,  meeting  with 
land,  which  flopes  towards  the  eafl,  they 
take  a  courfe  north  eafl  and  eaft. 

The  ièa  was  now   become   much  more 

open  than  formerly;  a  frefli  wind  at  fouth, 

having  fet  in,  had  chaced  the  fhoals  towards 

the  north,  while   the  currents,  in  concert 

N  2  w^itk 


î8o   VOYAGE   TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

with  the  wind,  had  drifted  us  confiderably 
in  the  fame  direction.  On  the  i  çth,  being 
north  north  eaft  from  Gelofdeclip  ifland,  we 
faw  the  mountains  which  compofe  the 
boundaries  of  the  plains  of  Renneveld. 
Here  the  magnetical  variation  is  only  five 
degrees  towards  the  north  weft;  at  the 
bay  of  Renneveld  the  variation  ceafes^ 
a  little  further  eaflward  it  is  renewed,  but 
there  the  variation  is  towards  the  north 
eaft.  The  plain  of  Renneveld,  as  well 
as  the  ifland  of  Moffin,  lies  too  low  to  be  ob- 
ferved  at  any  confiderable  diflance. 

- 1  faw  a  very  large  fpecies  of  fea  lion  as 
he  crawled  from  one  fhoal  to  another,  or 
came  to  take  air  at  the  furface.  This 
anim.al  is  from  eight  to  ten  feet  long,  and 
nearly  of  the  fame  fhape  with  the  fea  wolf. 
Nature  has  furniflied  him  for  his  defence 
with  a  couple  of  large  tuflcs  at  each  fide 
of  the  mouth,  fafiened  in  the  upper  and 
lower  jaws.  In  his  native  element  he  is 
bold  and  irafcible,  infomuch  that  when 
inraged  by  the  lofs  of  one  of  his  companions, 
his  eyes  gliftened,  and  he  fet  upon  the 
canoe  v/ith  his  teeth;    he    is,  neverthelefs 

cowardly 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTTÏ  POLE.     iSl 

cowardly  on  fhore;  and  tho'  he  frets  and 
growls  at  fuch  as  moleft  him,  prefumes 
not  to  ad:  on  the  offenfive  but  when  pufhed 
to  extremity. 

Nearly  in  the  fituation  in  which  we  now 
were,  the  Britiih  veflels,    which  failed  in 
the  year  1773,  for  the  purpofe  of  making 
difcoveries  in  the    north  feas,    after  having 
been  locked   in  for  fome  time,   terminated 
their  expedition.     It  is  pretended  by  fome 
of  our  failors,  who  were  fpeâ:ators  of  their 
misfortunes,    that  they  arrived  too  late  in 
the  feafon,  and   were  not  apprized   of  the 
•currents  which  drifted  them  to  the  north 
eaft  of  the  Devil's   Cape.      Be  this  as  it 
may,     finding    themfelves    caught    by  the 
ihoals     which    accumulate    here    in    vafl 
quantities,    and   the   feafon    being   greatly 
advanced,   they  were   much  alarmed,   and 
began  to  look  around  them  in  defpair.     One 
of  the  crews  a(5lually  quitted  the  fhip,  and 
were  making   the  befl   of  their  way  to  a 
greenlandman  at  fome  diflance,   when  turn- 
ing round    they  obferved  the    veffel  afloat 
in  the  ice  which  had  opened  fpontaneoufly, 
gnd  they  returned  on  board. 

N  3  Oux' 


l82    VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

Our  failors,  who  were  accuflomed  to 
this  navigation,  appeared  afloniflied  at  the 
continuance  of  the  fouth  wind  in  April 
and  May;  lince  in  thefe  months  north 
and  north  eafb  winds  are  in  general  the 
mofl  prevalent.  On  the  i6th  it  blew 
with  conlidcrable  force,  when  yielding  to 
the  joint  impulfe  of  the  wind  and  currents, 
we  foon  found  ourfelves  north  of  8 1  ^  of 
latitude.  In  this  very  high  latitude,  I  faw, 
with  fome  furprize,  the  fea  very  confidera- 
bly  open  and  freed  from  the  flioals. 

We  were  now  lefs  than  a  hundred  and 
eighty  leagues  from  the  pole,  and  the  idea 
of  fo  fmall  a  diftance  ferved  eifeâiually  to 
awaken  my  curiofity.  Had  I  been  able 
to  infpire  my  feliow  voyagers  with  fenti- 
ments  fimilar  to  my  own,  the  winds  and 
currents  which  at  this  moment  carried  us 
faft  towards  the  pole,  a  region  hitherto 
deemed  inaccellible  to  the  eye  of  mortals, 
would  have  been  faluted  with  acclamations 
of  joy.  This  quarter,  however,  is  not 
the  moft  eligible  for  fuch  an  enterprize; 
here  the  fea  lying  in  the  vicinity  of  thofe 
banks  of  ice,  fo  frequent  a  little  farther  to 

the 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH   POLE.    183 

the  weft,  is  much  too  confined.  Never- 
thelefs,  when  I  confider  the  very  change- 
able nature  of  the  flioals,  under  whatever 
form,  even  in  their  moft  crouded  and  com- 
padl  ftate;  their  conftant  changes  and 
concuffions  which  break  and  detach  them 
from  each  other,  and  the  various  expedients 
that  may  be  employed  by  the  navigator 
for  freeing  the  fhip  from  confinement, 
as  well  as  for  obviating  impending  danger, 
I  am  far  from  viewing  a  voyage  to  the 
pole  as  a  chimerical  idea.  At  the  fame 
time,  he  who  undertakes  it,  ought  to  be 
patient  under  many  hardfliips,  inured  to 
bodily  fatigue,  and  particularly  fkilful  in. 
the  practical  navigation  among  the  ice. 
My  own  experience  of  the  dangers  and 
difficulties  incident  to  the  navigation  of  fro- 
zen feas,  as  well  as  of  the  means  by  which 
they  were  furmounted,  fuffices  at  leaft  to 
give  an  air  of  praâ:icability  to  my  hypo- 
thefis. 


N  4.         CHAP, 


184     VOYAGE   TO   THE  NORTH   POLE. 

CHAP.      XXIIL 

^he  Hufjians  are  of  all  others  the  leajl  calcu-, 
lated  to  profecute  Difcoveries  towards 
the  North  Pole — Sca-JVater  is  freed  of  its 
Salt  by  intenfe  cold — At  particular  Seafons, 
towards  the  North  Pole,  it  aj/iimes  a 
blackifi  Hue — Obfervaticns  made  with 
the  Barojneter,  by  which  it  would  appear 
that  Ice  in  large  Bodies  forms  an  Atmof 
fhere  cf  its  own — Defcription  of  the 
If  Land  of  Amferdam . 

SUCH  is  the  navigable  ilate  of  the  ice 
in  the  months  of  April  and  May, 
that  fl:iips  arrive  at  the  ifland  of  Jean  Mayen 
io  early  as  the  end  of  March,  the  feafon 
when  rivers  and  harbours  are  ftill  frozen 
to  a  great  depth,  whence  I  infer  that 
Ruflîa  is  the  nation  leafl  in-  condition  to 
make  voyages  of  difcovery  in  the  region  of 
the  pole.  The  circumftances  of  the 
Siberian  Sea,  fhut  up  towards  the  fouth, 
and  greatly  confined  to  the  eaft  and  weft 
of  Nova  Zembla  and  the  land  of  Tchufchis, 
2  united 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.    185 

united  to  my  experience  in  the  courfe  of 
this  voyage,  induce  me  to  conceive,  that 
there  is  no  very  practicable  fea  in  that  quar- 
ter, and  that  the  ice  fojourns  even  longer 
in  thofe  than  in  thefe  regions.  The  ice, 
in  efFedt,  can  circulate  fou th ward  but  in 
fmall  quantities,  partly  perhaps  by  the 
north  of  Nova  Zembla,  and  partly  by 
the  Straits  of  NaiTau  and  the  North 
Cape  of  Tchufchis,  and  even  if  it  is  not 
true  that  the  American  continent  extends 
into  the  north  eaft  quarter  of  thefe  feas, 
ilill  I  do  not  conceive  it  poffibie,  that 
the  Siberian  Seas  fhould  difcharv^e  the  ice 
towards  the  north,  to  be  afterwards  drifted 
fouth  by  a  contrary  fet  of  currents,  fince 
the  fhoals  generated  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
pole,  during  nine  months  of  the  year, 
would  unavoidably  oppofe  its  circulation. 
I  am  inclined  to  think,  however,  that 
the  ice  is  not  equally  abundant  in  that  ■ 
quarter  as  in  the  feas  of  Spitzbergj  fcr 
though  the  flioals  of  the  latter  migrating 
north  and  fouth  by  means  of  different  cur- 
rents, at  length  find  an  outlet;  yet  the 
accumulated  flock  of  this  vafl  magazine, 

is 


l86      VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

is  fully  kept  up  by  the  confiant  influx  of 
£hoals  from  the  weft  of  Nova  Zembla, 
and  the  north  of  the  white  fea. 

On  the  firft  of  the  month,  being  in 
latitude  74^,  I  repeated  my  experiments 
on  fea  water,  and  found  that  100  pounds 
gave  41,  of  fait  ;  when  north  of  8 1  '''  of  lati- 
tude, where  the  inteniity  of  the  cold  produces 
a  confiderable  difcharge  of  that  fubilance, 
a  fimilar  quantity  of  v/ater  contained  only 
4  pounds  of  fait.  The  fea  men  diredted 
my  eye  to  black  fpots  in  the  water,  though 
of  an  unfathomable  depth;  an  appearance 
as  common  as  it  is  to  me  unaccountable, 
in  the  vicinity  of  Spitzberg.  I  am  affured 
they  only  appear  in  the  months  of  April 
and  May,  and  that  in  June  and  July  fpots 
of  a  whitifli  colour  are  equally  frequent. 
I  cannot  pretend  to  give  any  explanation 
of  this  appearance,  and  fliould  have  been 
difpofed  to  confider  it  as  a  fort  of  vifual 
difception,  if  I  had  not  examined  it  with 
care. 

The  barometer  ferves,  in  a  great  degree, 
to  confirm  an  opinion  I  adopted  upon  my 
foil  entering  thefe  frozen  regions  ^  I  mean, 

that 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.       I  87 

that  the  ice  creates  an  atmofphere  peculiar 
to  itfelf,  and  differing  from  that  either  of 
the  fea  or  dry  land.  In  thefe  climates 
there  exifts  not  a  fingle  cloud;  when  the 
fky  is  overcaft,  the  air  feems  loaded  with 
a  univerfal  haze.  When  the  fun  Ihines, 
the  heavens  prefently  affume  a  uniform 
ferenity.  A  warm  fun  is  often  fucceeded 
by  winds  fomewhat  high  ;  but  their  general 
character  is  mild  and  feeble,  and  I  am 
convinced,  that  the  fea  gales  penetrate  but 
a  fhort  way  into  the  frozen  zone.  My 
barometer,  graduated  by  Rhinland,  has  the 
variations  of  Europe  marked  28  inches 
9  lines,  while  the  variations  of  the  ice 
feem  to  be  29  inches.  I  am  of  opinion 
likewife,  that  the  mercury  ferves  to  indicate 
the  greater  or  fmaller  quantity  of  ice,  with 
which  we  happen  at  any  given  time  to  be 
furrounded;  and  the  fcquel  of  this  voy- 
age feemed  to  eftabh'fli  the  truth  of  this 
conje(5ture.  The  greateft  fail  of  the  baro- 
meter happened  on  the  17th,  with  the 
wind  at  eaft  north  eaft,  by  no  means 
blowing  frefhj  it  is  true,  the  ftcy  was 
clouded  over,  it  had  blown  the  evening 
6  beiore. 


ïS8      VOYAGE   TO  THE   NORTH  POLE. 

before,  and  we  had  fnow  the  fucceeding 
days,  accompanied  with  fevere  cold.  Navi- 
gators aiTure  me,  that  here  cafterly  winds 
are  alnioft  conftantly  attended  with  ha^e 
and  rain,  a  circumftance,  which  joined 
to  the  finking  of  the  barometer,  incUnes 
rne  to  fuppofe,  that  eaft  and  north  eaft  of 
us,  there  exifts  a  fea  much  lefs  incumbered 
with  fnoals.  On  the  other  hand,  north 
and  v/eft  winds,  efpecially  the  laft,  uni- 
formly uil]er  in  fine  clear  weather. 

On  the  17th,  a  north  and  north  eafl 
wind  drifted  us  fouthward  to  the  Devil's 
Cape^  it  ftands  upon  the  ifland  of  Am- 
fterdam,  and  affords  pretty  good  anchorage, 
but  fomewhat  expofed  to  ftorm.  The 
ifland  is  not  more  than  three  leagues  in 
length  by  two  in  its  greatefl  breadth;  and  con- 
fiils  of  much  lov\'er  ground  than  the  main- 
land, from  which  it  is  diftant  two  leagues 
and  a  half.  It  is  a  league  and  half  from 
the  ifland  of  Archipel,  which  flretches 
north  and  fouth  to  the  end  of  the  mainland, 
and  is  at  a  fimilar  diflance  from  Dean's 
Ifland.  The  anchoring  ground  is  in  a 
creek,  eaft  from  the  Cape;   though  vefi^els 

anchof 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.      1 89 

anchor  likewife  at  the  eaftern  point  of 
the  iiland,  as  well  as  between  this  and 
Dean's  iiland;  but  the  lafl:  of  thefe  fitua- 
tions  is  in  a  great  meafure  environed  with 
rocks,  particularly  towards  the  eaft;  the 
moft  convenient  pafTage  into  it  is  from  the 
wefl.  The  iiland  of  Dean  is  higher  than 
that  of  Amfterdam,  though  covered  by 
the  mainland,  Eaft  .from  Dean's  bay, 
and  fouth  from  Engelfe  bay,  it  has  very 
good  anchorage;  the  lafl:  of  which,  how- 
ever, "  is  the  moft  fecure.  In  thele  ftations 
the  depth  of  water  is  from  eighteen  to  fevea 
fathoms,  clofe  in  with  the  land.  At  a 
fmall  diftance,  on  the  fide  of  the  main  fea, 
the  found  deepens  very  coniiderably;  and 
between  the  iilands  and  the  mainland,  the 
lead  gives  three  hundred  fathoms.  The 
fmall  iiland  of  Vogelfand  aiïbrds  alfo  very 
good  anchorage,  which,  being  lefs  expofed 
to  the  wind,  is  perhaps  more  eligible  than 
any  of  the  former;  the  anchoring  ground 
lies  fouth  eaft  clofe  to  the  land,  infomuch, 
that  they  moor  the  fhip  upon  the  iiland 
itfelf. 

About* 


190    VOYAGÉ   TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

About  feven  leagues  fouth,  on  the  north 
weft  fide  of  the  Cape,  is  Magdelene  bay,, 
where  fliips  anchor  in  three  different  places, 
of  which  the  fafeft  and  moft  convenient 
is  in  the  north  eafl  quarter  of  the  bay, 
between  a  fmall  illand  and  the  mainland, 
with  twelve  fathoms  water.  In  the  fouth 
and  fouth  eaft,  behind  a  prominent  ftrip 
of  land,  is  another,  which  is  alfo  fafe. 
Here  the  navigator  may  even  refit,  and 
return  his  fliip  into  fix  fathoms  water. 
Eaftward,  however,  ftands  a  mountain, 
from  which  the  wind  is  apt  to  defcend  in 
violent  gufts.  That  which  lies  in  the  fouth 
weft,  though  of  the  largeft  extent,  is  the 
leaft  convenient.  The  bay  itfelf  is  a  league 
over  at  its  entrance,  and  a  league  and  a 
half  to  its  bottom,  with  from  fixteen  to 
twenty  fathoms  water. 

On  the  north  and  weft  coafts,  which 
are  very  well  known  all  the  way  from  the 
Straits  of  Hinloopen,  are  feveral  bays 
and  other  fituations,  where  a  fliip  may 
drop  anchor.  Thofe,  however,  of  Clok, 
north  eafl  from  Vorland  Ifle^  Cruis,  Mag- 
delene,   Deen's  I  lie,    and   Renneveld,    arc 

the 


VOYAGE    TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.     I9I 

the  befl  afcertained.  But  in  the  very  fafeft 
of  thofe  places,  feamen  ought  not  to  be 
unmindful  of  the  violent  fqualls  that  fud- 
denly  come  from  the  adjacent  hills. 


CHAP.     XXIV. 

Defcription  of  the  IJlands  of  Spitzberg — Huge 
Mountains  of  Ice  are  fcattered  along  the 
Sea  Coafls,  which  are  wafied  by  exceJIinje 
torrents — ^he  Vegetation  is  extremely  ra- 
pid— T!he  ^adriipeds  of  thefe  IJlands  de- 
fcribedf  and  the  periodical  Changes  in  the 
Colour  of  their  Fur  explained. 

ALL  along  the  fliore  Ire  numbers  of 
drifted  firs,  carried  in  by  an  eailern 
current;  trees  which  probably  defcend 
from  Samojede,  and  the  coaft  of  Lapland. 
Many  more  are  feen  floating  among  the  ice. 

The  iflands  of  Spitzberg  extend  from 
76^  30"  to  80^  9''  of  latitude;  Vorland 
Ifland,  which  is  the  moft  wefterly,  lies  in 
6^  45'',  and  the  fmall  ifland  farthefl  to- 
wards the  eaft,   in  30"  eaftern  longirude. 

Spitzberg 


192     VOYAGE   TO  THE  NQ-ftfrf  Pôtt. 

Spitzberg  prefents  itfelf  to"  the  eye  in 
lofty  ridges,  with  tops  of  a  conical  form; 
while  the  lower  grounds  briftle  up  in  largo 
fragments  of  rocks.  Hence  the  general^ 
afped:  of  the  country  is  extremely  favagcf 
rocks  riling  in  perpendicular  ftrata  to  a 
great  heigh  th,  huge  malTes  of  flone  hang- 
ing in  the  air  near  the  fummit,  or  tumbling 
from  their  bafes  half  way  to  the  bottom 
of  the  mountain,  led  me  at  firft  to  imagine, 
that  its  prefent  difaftrous  appearance  had 
been  owing  to  the  eruptions  of  volcanic 
mountains,  or  other  dreadful  convullions 
of  nature.  Upon  clofer  attention,  however, 
I  fhould  rather  refer  it  to  the  domineering 
violence  of  torrents,  originating  annually 
in  an  abrupt  and  copious  dilTolution 
of  the  fnow;  torrents  which  tear  up  the 
foil,  loofen  the  rocks,  and  fweep  every 
thing  before  them  in  their  defcent.  The 
wild  and  difmal  features  of  Spitzberg, 
being  very  fimilar  to  thofe  of  all  the  countries 
I  have  feen  equally  high  in  latitude,  incline 
me  to  this,  rather  than  to  the  former  opi- 
nions. The  rocks  have  a  fine  grain  and 
compaél  texture,    with  their  colour  better 

defined 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  fOLE.     ÏÇ^ 

defined  in  general  than  is  that  of  ours  5 
the  greateft  part  of  them  are  of  a  greyifh 
black,  fome  of  a  whitidi  grey,  and  fome 
approach  to  a  yellow;  many  of  them  arc 
ihaded  with  veins  of  different  colours  in 
the  manner  of  marble.  They  emitted, 
when  fet  a  rolling,  a  kindof  fulphurous  fmell, 
which  feemed  to  fuggefl,  either  that  they 
were  volcanic,  or  at  leaft  fubftances  that 
had  been  detached  from  mountains  con- 
taining volcanic  matter;  but  as  the  fmell 
was  encreafed  by  refi fiance,  and  in  propor- 
tion to  the  number  of  obflacles  the  ftone 
met  with  in  its  fall,  I  am  convinced  it 
was  nothing  more  than  a  general  efîecft 
of  fridion.  Slate  Stfata  are  very  common 
in  this  country,  which  is  faid  to  contain 
likewife  mines  of  iron  and  coal. 

I  obferved  mountains  of  ice  flanding 
at  certain  intervals  along  the  ihore,  an  ap» 
pearance  which,  as  it  feems  certain  that  no 
fuch  maffes  drift  into  thofe  feas,  occaiioned 
in  me  fome  furprife.  Confidering  their 
fcite,  which  was  clofe  to  the  land,  I  imagine 
they  originate  from  the  bafe  of  flioals 
thrown  upon  the  coaft;    and  that  from  the 

Vol.  IlL  O  alternate 


194     VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

alternate  freezing  and  thawing  of  the 
fnow,  their  fummits,  in  the  courfe  of  time, 
gradually  rife  to  this  high  elevation.  On 
many  of  the  Capes  of  Spitz  berg  appears 
a  fpecies  of  fmall  Glacière,  in  the  form  of 
a  fugar  loaf,  which  I  am  difpofed  to  refer 
to  a  limilar  procefs  oî  nature.  I  frequently 
obferve,  that  when  it  neither  freezes  on 
deck,  nor  is  the  weather  difagreeably  cold, 
the  haze  after  a  fine  funiliine  in  our  *  infe- 
rior day,  generates  icicles  at  the  top  of  the 
rigging  i  thefe  capes  however  ftand  much 
higher  in  the  atmofphere  than  the  fhip's 
mails,  and  though  the  fun  is  ftrong  enough 
to  make  a  confiderable  impreffion  on  the 
fnow  and  hoarfroll  at  the  fummit,  yet  a 
part  of  the  mafs  being  left  in  a  ftate  of 
partial  folution,  is  converted  by  the  next 
froft  into  folid  ice,  which  is  henceforth 
infoluble  by  the  folar  rays.  Thus  the  fun 
producing  but  a  fuperficial  effed:  upon  ice 
and  hail  of  2.x\y  confifbency,  only  prepares. 
them  for  a  llate  of  confolidation  upon  tlie 
return    of    froft.       Suppofing,    tlierefore, 

^  The  firll  twelve  of  the  twenty-four  hours, 

the 


VOYAGE   TO   THE   NORTH  POLE.       195 

the  bafis  of  the  fmall  Glacière  to  have  been 
laid  upon  the  Cape  in  this  manner,  it  is 
cafy  to  conceive,  how  it  fhould  have  aiTu- 
med  a  conical  form  from  a  confiant  repeti- 
tion of  the  fame  procefs.  If  the  largefl 
ridges  prefent  no  fuch  appearance,  it  is 
becaufe  the  floping  fides  of  the  mountains, 
v^^ith  their  intervening  vallies,  are  too  ex- 
tenfive  to  admit  fo  fudden  a  celTation  of 
heat  as  would  interrupt  the  melting  and 
defcent  of  the  fnow. 

Summer  commences,  and    the   noife  of 

innumerable    torrents   begins    to  be    heard 

on    all    fides  j    torrents,    which,  from   the 

prodigious  impetuofity  of  their  fall,   fcour 

the    creeks  and  bays    of  fuch   large  malles 

of  ice  as  the  currents   of  the  fea  had  been 

unable   to  diilodge.       The    coaft  becomes 

clear  of   every  incumbrance,  when  white 

fifhes,  as  well  as  fcveral  other  kinds,  may  be 

found  in  abundance  in  the  bays  and  mouths 

of  the   torrents.      The  foil,    impregnated 

with   moiflure,    begins    to   feel  the  genial 

warmth  of  the    fun,     and    nature    feems 

to  awaken  to  life   and  adivity;    confcious, 

however,  that   (he  has   only   a  momentary 

O  2  refpite 


196    VOYAGE   TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

refpite.  The  plants  pufh  their  leaves, 
open  their  bloflbms,  ripen  and  die  5  the 
Rein -deer  defcend  from  the  mountains, 
and  fatten  in  the  plains  of  Renneveld,  oa 
the  downs  of  Wittebay,  or  marflies  of 
Clok.  The  birds  lay  their  eggs,  and  hatch 
their  brood,  upon  the  fouthern  fide  of  the 
rocks.  Six  or  feven  weeks  pafs  away  and 
then  every  thing  relapfes  again  into  the 
calm  and  torpid  flate  of  death. 

The  foil  produces  neither  tree  nor  jfhrub  ; 
but  abounds  in  grafs  forrel,  and  a  fpecics 
of  mild  fcurvy  grafs.  Here  and  there  one 
meets  w^ith  a  largje  white  flower,  on  a 
ftem  about  two  feet  high,  with  a  few  others 
fcattered  over  the  ground. 

The  native  animals  of  Spitzberg  Iflands 
are  Bears  of  an  extraordinary  fize,  a  fmall 
ipecies  of  Foxes  and  the  Kcnnes  a  gros  fabot^ 
Qr  the  large  hoofed  Rein- deer.  The  firft 
are  conftantly  w^hite,  as  well  as  fome  of 
the  fécond  tribe,  v/hich  in  general,  how- 
ever, are  of  a  \vhitifli  grey;  and  the  lafl 
are  uniformly  grey  in  the  fummer,  and 
white  in  the  winter  feafon.  As  foon  as 
the  warm  weather  fets  in,    they  begin  to 

moult 


VOYAGE    TO   THE   NORTH   POLE.     1 97 

moult  and^  fatten.  The  young  fur  grows 
of  an  iron  grey  with  a  reddifh  tint,  and  at 
the  return  of  winter  is  full  grown,  ftill 
retaining  the  fame  colour.  The  cold  increafes, 
the  animal  becomes  languid  and  lean,  and 
is  foon  reduced  to  fuch  extreme  want,  as 
to  gnaw  his  hoofs  and  fuck  his  own  juices; 
his  hair,  meanwhile,  becoming  long  and 
white.  Nov/  this  clofe  connection  of 
grey  fur  with  a  ftrong  and  white,  with 
a  weak  and  fcanty  ftate  of  the  bodily  hu- 
mours, leads  one  to  imagine  that  the  peri- 
odical change  of  colour  in  northern  animals 
chiefly  depend  on  this  circumftance.  In 
the  fummer  the  bodily  humours  circulate 
freely  over  the  whole  fyftem  ;  but  in  win- 
ter, the  velTels  fhrinking  from  the  cold, 
the  fluids  are  propelled  towards  the  vitals, 
leaving  the  extremities  in  a  ftarved  and 
withered  ftate;  when  the  fur,  from  a 
privation  of  moiflure,  lofes  its  colour, 
and  becomes  white.  The  weakeft  animals 
of  their  kind  are  the  mod  liable  to  this 
changes  and  I  have  been  told  by  the  fox 
hunters  of  Spitzberg,  that  the  ikin  of  the 
white   fox  lofes  its  fur   much  fooner  than 

O  3  that 


198  VOYAGE   TO  THE   NORTH   POLE. 

that  of  the  grey.  The  Ruffians,  who  arc 
fettled  as  hunters  on  thefe  northern  fhores, 
catch  white  foxes  in  December  and  January 
only  ;  the  feafon  when  the  fur  is  deemed  of 
the  fineft  quality.  But  whence,  it  may  be 
aiked,  come  thefe  animals,  particularly 
the  Foxes  ?  we  may  fuppofe  that  the  Bears, 
rendered  amphibious  by  hunger  and  natu- 
ral ferocity,  might  have  migrated  hither 
by  paffing  from  one  fhoal  to  another.  They 
take  tlie  water  with  alacrity,  can  dive, 
and  remain  a  long  time  under  it,  infomuch, 
that  the  ice,  rather  than  the  land,  feems  to 
be  their  natural  element.  Some  of  them 
are  of  a  monftrous  fize.  I  have  feen  the 
ficin  of  a  white  bear  that  meafured  eight 
feet  by  five.  The  Rein-deer,  though  reluc- 
tantly, likewife  takes  the  water  when  it 
lies  in  his  w-ay,  and  can  fwim  to  a  great 
distance.  His  hoof  is  very  large  and  turned 
upwards  -,  the  horn  of  w^hich  it  is  compofed 
is  extremely  hard  :  his  fie£h  is  finer  than  that 
of  the  flag  and  equally  palatable  5  he  ex- 
preffes  defire  by  beating  the  ground  with 
Jiis  forefeet,  is  docile,  and  eafily  tamed. 
The  foxes  arc  remarkably  fmall,  being 
jitt}e  above   the  fize   of  a  large  cat;  and 

2  are 


VOYAGE   TO   THE    NORTH   POLE.     I99 

are  in  the  fame  manner  capable  of  being 
domeilicated,  though  with  more  difficulty 
than  the  Reindeer. 


CHAP.     XXV. 

"Defcrîptîon  of  the  Sea  and  amphibious  Birds 
of  the  IJlands  of  Spitzberg — Account  of 
the  EJiablifiments  the  Riijjians  have  made 
there^  for  the  collecling  of  Furs — And 
critical  Refecîio7îs  on  the  Advantages 
ivhich  prefent  thejnfelves  to  that  enter- 
terprifing  Nation. 

THE  Partridge  is  the  only  fpecies  of 
land  bird  I  have  i^^n  on  the  iflands 
of  Spitzberg;  but  the  Retchis,  Prienwen, 
Molmoque  and  fome  other  kinds  of  fea- 
fowls,  are  met  with  in  abundance. 

From  his  being  unable  to  ftand  upon  his 
legs,  it  fhould  feem  that  the  feais  exclufive- 
ly  the  element  of  the  Molmoque.  He  is 
about  the  fize  of  a  large  duck,  with  the 
body  (hort  and  robufl,  the  neck  thick, 
the  head  fiat,  and  wings  very  ftrong;  the 
O  4  plumage 


200       VOYAGE   TO   THE  NORTH   POLE. 

plumage  is  commonly  grey,  though  fome- 
times  whitifli,  with  a  thick  down  on  the 
flvin  ;  he  has  a  grey  webfoot,  and  pinions 
rather  long,  but  thinly  clad  :  the  bill  is 
black,  of  a  confiderable  length,  and  hooked 
and  fharp  at  the  extremity  like  that  of  the 
Sparrow  Paroquet.  Though  this  fpecies 
defcend  as  low  as  66°  of  latitude,  they 
are  there  but  few,  compared  with  the  mul- 
titudes v.e  meet  with  in  the  higher  lati- 
tudes; at  this  moment  they  furround  us 
in  great  numbers.  Their  food  is  flefh  or 
liili,  they  feem  of  a  very  irritable  temper, 
and  the  feathers  emit  an  intolerable  fmell» 
As  often  as  we  were  engaged  in  the  diflec^ 
tion  of  a  whaie,  thefe  animals  flocked 
around  the  velTel;  fome  devouring  the 
ilefliy  refufe  that  was  thrown  into  the  fea, 
wliile  others  sipped  the  oil  as  it  floated  on 
the  furface.  Their  cry  has  a  refemblance 
to  that  of  the  Goualon,  and  their  chirp  is 
like  that  of  common  fowls,  but  in  a  flronger 
pote. 

The  Prienwen,  though  a  bird    both  of 
land    and   water,    difcovers    a    prcdiledion 
for    the   ice.    In    fize    he  is    like   a   large 
6  pigeon  i 


VOYAGE   TO   THE   NORTH  POLE.       20r 

pigeon;  his  wings  are  long  and  flender, 
with  feathers  of  a  dazzhng  whitenefs  :  in 
the  young  biids  the  tail,  extremity,  and 
edges  of  the  wings,  are  fpotted  with  black. 
He  has  a  black  webfoot,  and  the  eye  dark 
like  that  of  the  Molmoque  ;  the  beak  yel- 
low, weakly  formed,  and  moderate  in 
length;  he  appears  of  an  inoifenfive  nature, 
is  eafily  tamed,  rather  dull,  and  lives  on 
ficih  and  fifh.  I  kept  one  of  them  for 
fome  time,  which  took  his  food  from  be- 
tween my  fingers,  and  feemed  to  know 
;me  when  I  approached  his  cage.  He 
feeks  to  perch  in  a  high  fituation,  and  his 
cry  is  analogous  to  his  name  Prienwen. 

The  fpecies,  named  Retchis,  is  extremely 
numerous,  and  attached  to  the  ice  and 
grounds  in  its  vicinity.  He  is  about  the 
iize  of  a  large  thruili,  and  his  voice  ap- 
proaches to  that  of  the  fame  bird,  when 
on  wing;  he  dives  rather  from  fear  than 
choice,  and  in  this  refped:  differs  from 
the  Prienwen  and  Molmoque;  he  has  a 
ftrong  refemblance  to  a  fpecies  of  Vv'ild 
duck,  I  have  feen  in  the  Philippine  Kles, . 
which  is  known  by  the  name  of  Balivis. 

The 


202      VOYAGE   TO  THE  NORTH   POLE. 

The  Burgomafter,  Paroquet,  Pigeon,  and 
Lomb,  are  likevvife  found  in  thefe  iflands 
and  fcaS,  though  in  fmaller  numbers. 
The  Burgomaiter  ranks  the  firft  among 
the  feathered  tribes  of  thofe  northern  re- 
gions; he  is  as  large  as  a  Goofe,  with 
body  and  Vvàngs  extremely  robufl;  his  eye 
and  feet  are  yellow;  his  bill  ilender, 
and  except  one  fpot  on  the  under  part  of 
it,  of  the  fame  colour  with  the  eye;  his 
plumage,  though  in  general  white,  is 
of  an  afli  colour,  on  the  back  and  wings, 
while  a  white  edging  round  its  border, 
produces  a  beautiful  contrail,  and  renders 
him  a  very  handfome  bird.  The  Paroquet 
probably  owes  his  name  to  his  hooked 
beak;  but  what  makes  it  an  cbjeâ:  of  fome 
curioiity,  are  the  red,  white,  and  blue 
bands  which  incircle  it  from  one  extremity 
to  the  other.  The  Pigeon,  as  v/ell  as 
the  Paroquet,  has  red  feet,  and  in  both, 
the  plumage  is  fpeckled  black  and  white. 
The  Lomb  appears  to  be  a  fpecies  of 
Duck,  and  refembles  him  in  his  plumage; 
but  with  a  very  wild  and  difmal  cry. 

I  have 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.      203 

I  have  feen  among  the  fhoals,  and  at 
a  great  diftance  from  land,  a  pretty  and 
fmall  fpecies  of  bird,  which  lives  conftantly 
on  the  ice,  and  is  on  no  occalion  obferved 
on  fhore.  He  feems  of  a  very  delicate 
frame,  avoids  the  water,  and  indeed  nature 
having  denied  him  the  web  foot  of  the 
acquatics,  does  not  appear  to  have  intended 
him  for  that  element.  It  is  impoflible  to 
fay  with  certainty  upon  what  he  fubfifls, 
or  where  he  builds  his  nefl:;  though  the 
mariners  feem  to  imagine  that  he  builds 
in  the  ice,  and  feeds  upon  fnow.  But  I 
am  not  credulous  enough  to  be  of  the  fame 
opinion;  one  of  them  lived  under  my  eye 
for  a  coniiderable  time;  he  fed  upon  fand 
and  flower,  and  picked  fnow  at  times  like 
the  Prienwen;  but  it  feemed  to  be  for 
the  purpofe  of  drink,  rather  than  of  food. 
He  is  of  the  fize  of  a  fparrow,  with  the 
bill  longer  and  more  delicate.  The  ground 
of  the  plumage  is  grey;  his  wings  and 
tail,  which  are  confiderable  in  length, 
are  black  mixed  with  white  feathers;  his 
beak  is  grey  interfperfed  with  fome  white 
fpots;  the  head  and   neck  have  likewife  a 

jnixture 


204    VOYAGE   TO  THE   NORTH  POLE. 

mixture  of  white  with  a  collar  of  the  fame, 
and  a  white  llripe  runs  along  the  wings; 
the  belly  and  remaining  parts  of  the 
body  are  white,  except  feme  fmall  reddifh 
foecks  on  the  head  and  breaft  like  the  Lin- 
net.  Kc  IS  a  charming  fprightly  little 
bird;  his  voice  refembles  that  of  the  Lark, 
when  fhe  flits  from  one  field  to  another, 
and  I  am  told  he  chants  at  times  very 
agreeably. 

It  is  now  upwards  of  thirty  years  fincc 
fome  Ruflian  merchants  formed  hunting  fet- 
tlements  in  different  parts  of  thefe  iflands. 
The  objeâ:  of  their  traffic  is  not  the  "Whale; 
but  Bears,  Reindeer,  Foxes,  Sea-Lions, 
and  Sea- Wolves,  whofe  oil  and  ikins  are 
fent  from  time  to  time  to  Archangel.  Once 
in  two  years  their  countrymen  arrive  in 
iix  or  feven  fiiiall  vcllels  to  relieve  the  hun- 
ters on  duty;  and  this  happens  towards 
the  end  of  July,  or  in  the  month  of  Augufl, 
when  thofe  who  have  completed  the 
term  of  their  fervice,  return  home  to  tlieir 
families.  T'he  fettiements  itand  on  four 
bays,  Clok,  Groen,  Vorland,  and  Crugs, 
fîtuated  on  the  well   coaft  of  the   illand; 

befides 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH    POLE.     20^ 

befides  a  fifth  in  the  north  coail  on  the 
bay  of  Renneveld.  This  hardy  race  of 
men  pafs  their  winter  on  the  frigid  ex- 
tremities of  Spitzberg,  and  boldly  oppofe 
their  perfons  to  all  the  rigors  of  the  Frozen 
Zone.  Invited  to  the  little  ifland  of  Moffin, 
by  the  profped:  of  game  in  greater  abun- 
dance, they  are  known  to  remain  on  that 
defert  fpot,  imprifoned  by  the  ice,  for 
the  fpace  of  fix  weeks,  deilitute  of  every 
means  of  fubliflence,  but  the  flefli  of  the 
fea  Lion  ;  meanwhile  a  fort  of  twilight, 
the  fplendor  of  the  Aurora  Borealis,  and 
the  reflexion  of  the  fnow,  ferve  to  light 
them  on  their  excurfions,  and  to  enable 
them  to  continue  the  chace  during  the  very 
long  nights  of  a  Hyperborean  winter. 
There  prevails  towards  the  end  of  Decem- 
ber, in  the  month  of  January,  and  the 
beginning  of  February,  a  dry  penetrating 
cold,  when  the  atmofphere  is  perfecftly  ftill, 
the  fky  of  a  peculiar  ferenity,  and  the 
whole  firmament  feems  to  glow  with  the 
united  eft ulgence  offtars.  In  March  and 
April,  the  feafon  when  the  north  and 
north   eaft  winds   fet  in,    there  are  fnow 

and 


206       VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

and  hoar-frofts.  The  month  of  May,  and 
the  beginning  of  June,  are  fine,  and  then 
the  winds  varying  from  the  north  to  the 
north  weù,  wcû:,  fouth,  and  fometimes, 
but  rarely-,  to  the  eaft,  the  froft  feems 
difpofed  to  relax  of  its  feverity.  June  and 
July  are  warm,  but  fraught  with  haze, 
accompanied  by  weak  and  variable  winds. 
In  the  months  of  July  and  Auguft  the 
rains  become  frequent,  and  the  winds, 
fhifting  to  the  quarter  of  the  eaft,  affume 
a  bolder  tone.  The  fnow  returns  and 
prevails  with  frefli  breezes  in  September, 
Odober,  and  November,  during  which 
period  it  freezes  with  great  feverity;  and 
the  white  froft  falls  every  where  in  profu-* 
iion.  About  ten  years  lince,  fome  iliips 
of  war  appeared  in  thefe  feas,  charged  by 
the  court  of  Peter&urgh  to  vifit  the  hunt- 
ing fettlements  of  Spitzberg,  and  to  make 
an  accurate  furvey  and  plan  of  theiiland. 

But  what  a  iingular  view  here  prefents 
itfelf  of  the  policy  of  Ruffia,  which, 
with  an  empire  extenfive  enough  to  embrace 
the  confines  of  Germany,  China,  Perfia, 
and  Turkey,  and  with  harbours  on  all  the 

prin- 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.      20J 

principal  feas  in  the  world,  is  yet  not 
unmindful  of  a  fev/  miferable  hunters  im 
the  illand  of  Moffin.  Were  the  population 
of  this  kingdom  in  tolerable  proportion  to 
her  extent  of  territory,  what  bounds  could 
be  oppofed  to  her  ambition  ?  But  the  11a- 
vifh  dépendance  of  the  Ruffian  peafmtry, 
and  the  want  of  proper  regulations  refpecfling 
marriage,  threaten  to  retard  this  eiTential 
branch  of  national  confequence  to  a  very 
late  period  of  her  hiftory.  On  the  other 
hand  the  pradlice  of  tranfporting  conviais 
to  Siberia,  a  vaft  country,  almoft  deflitute 
of  inhabitants,  appears  highly  politic, 
inafmuch  as  it  makes  the  punifliment 
of  criminals  the  means  of  populating  and  im- 
proving the  foil.  Her  harbours  on  the 
coafls  of  Kamfchatka,  and  the  Black  fèa, 
may  contribute  to  render  her  navy,  one 
day,  fuperior  to  that  of  any  other  nation 
whatever.  I  queflion,  however,  whether 
the  navigation  of  the  fea  of  Tartary  can 
ever  be  made  to  anfwer  a  more  valuable 
objed;  than  a  coafting  trade;  though  I 
have  little  doubt  but  it  may  be  extended 
even  beyond  the  boundaries  of  Tchufchis, 

provided 


208     VOYAGE  TO  THE  NOÏ^TH  POLîf, 

provided  that  Cape  has  been  actually 
doubled,  and  the  communication  between 
the  rivers  Colima  and  Anadin  can  be  opened 
and  alcertained. 


CHAP.      XXVI. 

^he  Navigation  amongfl  the  Ice  becomes 
Jo  very  difficiiltf  that  the  VeJJei  is  in 
Danger  of  being  crujhed  in  Pieces,  and 
is  extricated  by  ahnoji  incredible  'Rxertions 
— By  the  Procefs  of  freezing,  the  Sea 
Water  is  ahnoji  entirely  freed  of  its  Salt 
— The  FaB  is  ejlablified  that  an  extenfive 
Range  of  Ice  forms  an  Atmnfpherc  pecu- 
liar to  itfelf 

E  had  again  launched  into  the 
ice,  fleering  well  fouth  weft, 
and  on  the  24th  of  May  were  in  latitude 
78"^,  and  in  i^  20'^  eaft  longitude.  The  wind, 
which  continued  from  the  17th  to  the  28th 
in  the  north  and  north  eaft,  was  in  our 
favour;  the  weather  was  exceftively  cold, 
stnd  the  thermometer  funk  eleven  degrees 

below 


VOYAGE  TO   THE   NORTH  POLE.     SÔÇ 

Ibelow  froft.  We  had  frequent  falls  of  fnow, 
and  the  fea  was  frozen  all  around  us  to 
the  depth  of  five  or  fix  inches.  On  the 
external  furface  of  a  window  glafs  belong- 
ing to  my  cabbirtj  the  door  of  which  was 
kept  fhut,  there  appeared  a  cruft  of  ice 
half  an  inch  in  thicknefs;  and  the  water 
and  beer  froze  in  the  cafksi  The  precau- 
tions employed  in  this  navigation  are  va- 
rious; fometimes  we  moor  upon  a  fhoal 
which  intercepts  our  courfe,  and  wait  pa- 
tiently till  fome  variation  in  the  wind  ena- 
bles us  to  clear  it;  fometimes,  when  at 
anchor,  finding  that  we  drift  with  fuch 
velocity  as  to  be  in  danger  of  running  foul 
of  the  furrounding  ice,  we  contrive  to 
deaden  the  fliip's  motion  by  attaching  our- 
lelves  to  the  fummits  of  two  different  flioals; 
fometimes  the  flioals,  in  drifting  towards 
Us,  encounter,  but  inftantly  parting  with 
an  accelerated  motion,  it  is  neceffary  to 
manœuvre  with  alertnefs  and  precifion, 
in  order  to  avoid  a  mafs  of  ice,  which, 
from  its  vaft  fize,  mufl  greatly  damage, 
if  not  crufh  the  fhip  to  atoms.  On  the 
28  th  we  entered  that  region,  which  is 
Vol.  Ill,  P  chiefly 


2IO    VOYAGE   TO  THE   NORTH   POLE. 

chiefly  occupied  by  banks  of  ice,  whence 
it  has  been  named  by  navigators  the  wtû 
coaft.     Here  a  dazzhng    whitenefs,    over- 
fpreading  the.  whole  wefhern  quarter  from, 
north  to  fouth,   except  a  few  dark  fpecks, 
appeared  to  indicate   that    all   below  was 
one  extended  furface  of  ice.     Our  latitude, 
meanwhile,    was  78°,  with  25^   weft  lon- 
gitude ;   the  variation  of   the  needle   2Q*^.. 
The  v>'ind   obliging   us    to   moor   upon   a 
bank,  by  a  fudden  movement  of  the  adja- 
cent   ice    v/e  found  ourfelves    deprived  of 
every  kind  of  outlet.     The  ice  lay  directly 
along  iide  of  the  iliip,   and  I  was  unable  to 
difcover,   through  the  whole  extent  I  could 
embrace  with  my  eye,  a  furface  of  water 
equal   to  ten  fathoms.      We  furveyed  the 
Ihip,  and  were  happy  to  find  that  hitherto 
we  had  nothing  to  dread  from  the  prelTure 
of  the  Ihoals.      At  three   o'clock,    how- 
ever, next  morning,  an  icy  wreck,    which 
floated    abaft,    compreffed  by    the    Ihoals 
in  our  wake,    accumulated    at  the    ftern^ 
when  apprehending  that  the  prefTure  falling 
unequally  upon  the    rudder   might  fpring 
be  iron  faftenings,    we  thought  it  prudent 

to 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.       211 

to  unhang  it.  Luckily  the  center  of  com- 
preffion  was  at  a  greater  diftance  from  us 
than  we  imagined,  and  in  the  fpace  of  two 
hours  the  wind  fhifting  to  the  fouth  eafl  with 
a  fine  breeze,  the  fea  fell  a  little,  and  the 
banks  parting,  floated  in  large  fragments 
along  fide  the  vefi^el. 

As  foon  as  thefe  fhoals  broke  up,  a  dead 
Whale   which  had  fallen  a  victim  to  the 
harpoon,    came    drifting    towards  us,  and 
we  wrefted  it  from  the  jaws  of  a  multitude 
of  Birds,  Bears,   and  Sea  Dogs,   whofe  af- 
femblage  firft  direded  our  eye   towards  it, 
and  who  afterwards  kept   hovering  around 
us,   ready  to  afi^ert  by  force  their   title   to 
the  carcafe.      The   Bears  fitting  on  their 
tails,  at  a  fmall  diftance,    growled  difap- 
pointment,    and    feemed    to    reproach    us 
with  an  adl  of  violence  and    piracy,  com- 
mitted againft  them  in  the  feas  over  which 
they  claimed  a  dominion.     The   Unicorn 
and  Sea  Lion  become  lefs  frequent  in  pro- 
portion as  we  defccnd  to  a  lower  latitude; 
and   Whales    now  appear  in  troops;    but 
t/jey  likewife   become  rare  from  the  infre- 
quency  of  the  (hoals.      I   have  obferved, 

P  2  at 


212       VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POtÈV 

at  times,  the  female  with  a  young  one 
which  fhe  fuckles,  but  I  never  faw  more 
than  one  cub  attending  the  fame  mother. 

I  wilhed  to  know  whether  the  fait  of 
fea  water  is  difcharged  in  the  aâ:  of  freez- 
ing, and  for  this  purpofe  I  tafled  pieces  of 
ice  on  the  3d,  which  had  been  frozen  round, 
the   fliip   on  the   2d    of    June  ;    when   I 
found  that  the  water  had  loft  ~  of  its  fait.    I 
tafled  ice  again  on  the  8th,  and  found  it  much 
frefher  than  what  I  had  tafted  on  the   3d; 
but  during  this  interval  the  mercury  having 
been  only  twice  fo  low  as  one  degree  and 
an  half  below  froft,   I  imagined  that  per- 
haps a  more  intenfe  cold,  or  a  longer  con- 
tinuance of   it,    might  difcharge   the   fait 
intirely;    and    therefore   on    the   27th,    I 
tafted  ice     which    had    been    expofed  to, 
an    unremitting    cold     of     between     fix 
and    eleven  degrees    for  the   fpace  of  ten 
days,  and  found  it  almoft  perfectly  frefh; 
a  brackifti  tafte  being  fcarcely  diftinguifh- 
able.      It  appeared   to  me,  however,  that 
the  ice  had  depofited  a  greater  proportion 
of  its  fait  between  the  3d  and  8th,  than 
it  had  done  during  this  intenfe  cold,  even 

at 


VOYAGE   TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.       2x3 

at  the  end  of  19  days.  My  fluid  balance, 
irhmerfed  in  a  folation  of  ice  on  thé  31ft, 
funk  as  in  frefh  water  to  the  graduation  of 
33^,  whilfi:  it  flood  in  common  fea  water 
at  254-.  Sea  water,  expofed  in  a  bay  to  a  cold 
of  9^  below  fro  ft,  was  frozen,  but  lofl 
only  a  very  fmall  portion  of  its  fait,  and 
acquired  little  confiiftency;  whether  this 
circumftance  was  owing  to  a  very  tran- 
quil ftate  of  the  atmofphere,  I  cannot 
pretend  to  fay.  On  fome  occafions  the 
fhip,  in  traverfmg  new  ice  of  the  thicknefs 
of  three  inches,  moved  without  the  fmal- 
left  noife,  as  if  fhe  had  been  failing  through 
butter  of  a  hard  confiftencyj  but  I  remarked 
alfo,  that  this  appearance  was  not  always 
the  fame  in  fimilar  fituations.  I  diffolved 
pieces  of  ice,  dug  out  of  the  heart  of  large 
blocks,  and  found  that  the  water  in  fome 
of  thefe  fpecimgns  was  perfectly  frefh;  in 
others  lefs  difcharged  of  the  fait  than  in 
the  ice  I  had  prepared  for  the  experiments  j 
but  I  could  not  be  equally  fure  as  of  my 
own  ice,  that  thefè  famples  were  homo^ 
geneous,  I  mean  wholly  and  uniformly 
compofed  of  fea  water, 

P  3  Such 


214       VOYAGE   TO  THE  NORTH   POLE. 

Such  had  been  the  crowded  and  compact 
ffcate  of  the  flioals  as  to  prevent  our  enlarge- 
ment, till  the   I  ft  of  June;  and  in  this  pe- 
rilous .  lituation    having    obferved  a  fmall 
piece  of  water,  where  the  fliip,  if  ihe  could 
reach  it,   would   lie  more  at  her  eafe,   we 
had  recourfe  to  that  particular  procefs  in 
which  hav/fers,  fails,  and  poles  are  all  em- 
ployed in  the  extrication  of  a  veiTel   thus 
entangled.     This    almofl   incredible  effort 
of  labour  and   perfeverance,   the  unceafing 
objed:  of  my  afloniihment,  lafted   no  lefs 
than  36  hours;  and  the  effedl  is  only  prac- 
ticable where  the  Ihpals  are  of  a  moderate 
extent,    and    not    very   compaft    in   their 
arrangement;   fince  it  is  by  increafmg  com- 
preffion  in  the  adjacent  ice,    that  a  palTage 
may  be  opened  in  this  manner  to  the  vef- 
•fel;   and  hence  it  is  an  expedient  wholly  in- 
applicable  to  the  banks,    though  in  fomc 
of    the  leall    extenfive,    wq  obferved  it  to 
produce  a   very  frnall    degree   of  motion. 
"Preffing  a  little  more  to  the  weft,   we  came 
to  a  bay,  where  being  overtaken  by  a  thick 
haze,    we   were  obliged  to  moor  upon  a 
bank  flretching  weftyvard. 

,  6  Tlic 


VOYAGE   TO  THE   NORTH   POLE.      215 

The  elevation  of  the  Barometer  in  this 
xegion,  v/here  the  furface  of  the  ocean  is 
wholly  converted  into  banks  of  ice,  with 
fcarcely  a  drop  of  water  in  a  fluid  ftate, 
confirms  me  in  my  opinion  that  the  ice 
ilamps  a  particular  charadler  on  the  incum- 
bent atmofphere.  In  an  overclouded  fky, 
attended  by  a  very  thick  haze,  the  mercury 
pointed  29  inches  four  lines  and  a  half; 
it  remained  at  the  fame  height  for  fome 
days,  and  only  defcended  when  the 
channels  began  to  appear  between  the 
banks . 


CHAP,     xxvir. 

Dcjcnption  of  the  Whale  Fifhcry  on  the 
Weji  Coajl,  with  an  account  of  the  various 
Infiruments  employed,  and  Suggef  ions  for 
their  Improvement, 

ON  this  cruize  we  faw   a  number  of 
Whales,    and     caught    one,     while 
fome    others    extricated    themfelves    from 
the     harpoon.       The    two    branches    of 
P  4  this 


2l6   VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

this  inflrument,  terminating  in  a  fharp 
point,  frequently  tear  the  flefh,  aud  lofe 
their  hold  of  the  fifh  i  probably  this  incon- 
venience might  be  remedied  by  fubftitut- 
ing  a  kind  of  knob  in  the  form  of  ar^ 
inverted  cone,  inftead  of  the  fharp  point. 
As  the  weftern  whale  is  of  a  much  longer 
iize  than  that  of  the  North  Seas,  I  (hall 
here  make  a  few  obfervations  on  this  cele- 
brated fifhery. 

The   fhips   deflined  for   the   Greenland 
Seas,  carry  fix    or   feven    boats,    each    of 
•which  is  provided  with  a  mailer,  four  row- 
ers and  a  harpooner.     Thefe  boats  are  of  a 
light  conflruâion  and  row  remarkably  well. 
Their  dimenfions  are  five  and  twenty  feet 
jn  length,  by  fix  and  one  third,  and  about 
three  from  the  benches  to  the  keel.      They 
carry    a    filLing    apparatus,   con fi  fling  of 
feven  pieces  of  cordage  of  a  hundred  and 
twenty  fathoms  each  -,  twelve  fathoms  of  a 
fine  flexible  rope  for  the  purpofe  of  eluding 
the  fhdls^   three    harpoons,   fix  lances,  a 
pickaxe,  a  hammer,  a  ilake  fhod  with  iron 
to  moor  the  boat  upon  the  ice,  a  fea  com- 
pafs,  ^nd  a  flag, 
'  The 


VOYAGE  TQ  THE  NORTH  POLE.      217 

The  harpoon,  which  is    of  an    angular 
form,  has   two  edged  fides,  terminating  at 
the  extremity  in  a  fharp  poinç  ;  the  fides 
or  branches,  are  barbed  interiorly  with  a 
kind  of  femiharpoon  ;  in  the  plain  of  the 
angle    is   a    perpendicular    iron   rod   fixed 
in  a  wooden  handle  ieven  feet  in  length  ; 
the  whole  length  of  the  iron  is  two  feet  and 
a  quarter,  and  its  fmallefl  circumference  an 
inch  and  an  half.    The  edge  of  each  branch 
is   fix  inches  and  an  half  in  length;   the 
difiiance  between  them  five  inches  4»  ^^à 
the  greateft    thicknefs  of  the  iron  in  the 
plain  of  the  angle  nine  lines. 

The  twelve  fathoms  of  fine  white  line 
are  meant  to  be  fixed  to  the  harpoon, 
and  fpliced  with  a  piece  of  larger  cordage, 
the  firfl  being  two,  and  the  lafl  three  inches 
in  circumference. 

The  lance  has  a  blade  nine  inches 
long,  three  and  ^  broad,  and  two  lines 
in  thicknefs,  and  an  iron  rod  five  feet 
in  length,  and  one  inch  and  ^  in  circum- 
ference, inferted  in  a  handle  fix  feet  long. 

As  foon  as  the  ihip  arrives  on  her  fifh- 
ing  ilation,  fhe  jlhortens  fail  and  hoifls  out 

two 


2l8      VOYAGE   TO   THE   NORTH  POLE. 

two  of  her  bouts  which   row   round   her 
îit   a  confiderable   diftance.     If  an  oppor- 
tunity fhould  offer,  flie  finds  it  ilill  more 
convenient    to    furl    her    fails,    and    moor 
upon    the   ice^    as  in  this    cafe,    being  in 
a   condition  to   fpare    the    greater  part   of 
her  crew,  fhe  can  employ  more  boats  on 
a  cruize.     If  the   ice   is   in   the   form    of 
banks,    the    rov/ers  lie    on   their   pars,   or 
•ply  along  the  coail   at  the  diilance   of  a 
gun  fnot  or  more  from  the  fliip,  as   well 
as   from   the  other  boats,   infomuch,    that 
altogether  they   occupy    a   fpace   equal   to 
a  cannon  fliot  and  a  half  in  extent.     The 
barpooner  choofes    to   cruize   on    the  eaft 
rather   than  on   the  weil  fide  of  the  ice, 
finding  by  experience,  that  the  Whale  al- 
ways burfcs  from  her  confinement  towards 
that  quarter.     The  bottom  of  a  bay  how- 
ever   among    the    fhoals    is    efleemed    the 
moft  eligible  lituation  for  the  Whales,  as 
his  game,    hampered  by   the  ice,   is    con- 
ftantlv   in    readinefs    to    embrace   the  iirfl 
opening   to   rear   his  head  above  the  fur- 
face. 

Thcr 


VOYAGE  TO  THE   NORTH   POLE.    219 

The    harpooner    flationed    at    the   bow 
with  his  left  thigh  pafîed  ïhrough  a  board 
and  his  right  knee  refting  upon  another, 
is  completely  fecured  from  every  accident 
which  might  occur  from  the  motion  of  the 
boat.      He  holds  in  his  right  hand,  the  har- 
poon ftretched  over  the  left,  in  which  is  a 
coil  of  white  line,  keeping  his  eye  conilantly 
fixed   on    the   furface   of  the    water.     At 
length    the    Whale    ilarts   into    view,   and 
in  the  lame  moment  the  rowers  fet  upon 
her  generally  from  behind,  though   fome- 
times  directly  in  front,  as  the  head  of  the 
animal  is  fo   large  as  to  prevent  her  per- 
ceiving   the    boat.      Fîaving  come    within 
the  diftance  of  two  or  three  fathoms,  the 
attentive   harpooner  lodges   the  inftrument 
in  her  head,  back  or  iide,  and  inftantly  runs 
off  his   line.     At  the  fame  time  it  is  the 
bufinefs  of  the  boats  in  company,  if  at  hand, 
to   follow    up   the   attack   by  throwing  a 
fécond,  perhaps  third  harpoon.     The  prin- 
cipal   danger   to    be    apprehended  on   this 
occafion,   is  from    the  firfl   ftroke   of  the 
Whale's   tail,    which   in   her   anguiih   and 
furprize    (he  is   apt  to  wQild  with  dread- 
ful 


220     VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  tOLE. 

ful  violence.  She  frequently  however 
dives  diredly  to  the  bottom,  or  fhoots 
diagonally  through  the  Vvaterj  a  mode  of 
flight  vtry  inconvenient  to  the  boats,  as 
io  this  eafe  they  may  be  dragged  after 
her  to  a  great  diftance,  while  the  har- 
pooner  muft  fupply  line  as  long  as  the 
Game  continues  to  require  it. 

Mean  while  the  harpooners  give  fignals 
of  fuccefs  to  the  fhip,  that  they  have 
ftruck  a  Whale  ;  the  fhip  in  order  to 
prevent  the  interference  of  Grangers  re- 
peats the  harpooner's  fignals,  by  hoifling 
a  flag  accompanied  with  three  cheers.  All 
hands  on  board,  with  every  boat  in  their 
poffeffion  now  proceed  to  aflift  their  com- 
panions, by  fupplying  more  line  and  by 
coiling  it  up  as  the  Whale  becomes  fa- 
tigued and  ceafes  to  be  capable  of  refift- 
ance. 

It  is  common  upon  ilriking  a  Whale 
to  run  off  350  or  400  and  fometimes 
the  length  of  1000  fathoms  of  line.  |f 
tJhe  wounded  Whale  dives  perpendicularly, 
(he  ftruggles  at  the  bottom,  and  not  very 
rarely  elFeds  her  efcape^  though  generally 
3  ûie 


VOYAGE   TO  THE    NORTH   POLE,     22Î 

ûïQ  becomes  faint  from  fatigue  and  lofs  of 
blood,  and  furrenders  at  difcretion.     If  her 
flight  is  diagonal  or  in  an  inclined  plane, 
the  boats  continue  drifting  in  the  dirediori 
of  their  prize,   who  feldom  makes  a  lon- 
ger   trip   under  water   than   a   league  and 
a  half;  but  the  route  of  all  others  the  moft 
perplexing    to    her    purfuers    is    under    a 
fhoal  :    for   the  boat  being  intercepted  by 
the  ice,    muil:   keep   running  off  an   im- 
menfe  quantity   of  line,   while   the  Whale 
perhaps  comes  afloat,  but  getting  intangled 
is  loft  below  the  ice.     Frantic   with    the 
pain   of  her  firll  wounds,    flie   fometimes 
rebounds    and    ilruggles    on    the    furface, 
when  flie  feldom  fails   to  be  faluted  with 
another    harpoon  ;    but,    if  (he  has    taken 
under  the  ice,  as  there  is  fome  probability 
of   her    breaking    cover    on     the    oppofite 
fide  of  the  flioal,   it  is    the    duty    of  the 
auxiliary  boats    to  be  ready   to  flrike  her 
the  moment  flie  lifts   up  her  head.    She  is 
now  played   or    hauled    on    the   line    ac-* 
cording  as   flie  is  felt  to  be  more  or  lefs 
exhaufled;   when  reduced  to  fuch  a  flate 
of  v/eaknefs  as  to  obey  the  line  and  rife 

to 


222    VOYAGE  TO  THE   NORTH  POLE. 

to   the    furface,    fliil    flie    refuines   a   little 
vigour,  and  confequently   continues    to   be 
played  with  by  the  harpooner,  an  exercife 
m  which   I  have  feen  him  employed  up- 
wards of  four   hours.     She    comes   afloat 
a  fécond  time  and  is   now  expofed   to  an 
attack  from   a   multitude   of   lances  j    but 
once  more  colledling  all  her  ftrength   fhe 
makes  the  laft  dying  effort,  the  harpooner 
fïiîî  running  off  a  fmall  quantity  of  line. 
At  length,  however,  the  prize  lies  motion- 
lefs  on  the  furface  of  the  water;    and  the 
crew,  plunging  their  lances  into  his  bowels, 
atchieve  the  cataftrophe  with  repeated  fhouts 
of  joy.     The   tail  and   fins   enable    them 
to  lay    her    along   fide  the   (hip  -,    and    by 
means  of  hook  and  pullies  they  hoifl:  the 
carcafe  a  little  above  the   furface,   begin- 
ning the  bufinefs  of  diffedion  by  cutting 
off  the  tail. 


CHAP. 


VOYAGE   TO   THE   NORTH   POLE.      223 


CHAP.      XXVIII. 

Method  of  Whaling  employed  by  the  North 
Amerkansy  and  Inhabitants  of  IDaviss 
Straits,  in  Seas  unincumbered  by  Ice- — • 
T^he  different  Proceffes  ifed  in  feparating 
from  the  ufelefs  Parts  of  the  Animal 
the  Blubber  and  Bone— Natural  Hijh'ry 
of  the  Whale. 

OME  nations,  particularly  the  Britifh 
Americans  and  the  favage  tribes  of 
Davis's  Straights,  harpoon  the  Vv^iiale  in 
the  o^tn.  fea  -,  and  inftead  of  employing 
a  large  quantity  of  line,  like  the  Euro- 
peans, employ  fifty  or  (ixty  fathoms  only, 
at  one  extremity  of  which  is  the  harpoon, 
and  at  the  other,  a  fpecies  of  buoy  or 
wind  balloon.  The  filherman,  having 
thrown  his  harpoon,  permits  the  "Whale 
to  flounce  as  fhç  pleafes  -,  but  after  fwim- 
ming  and  diving  by  turns  for  feveral  hours, 
fhe  begins  to  weary  from  lofs  of  blood 
and  the  unfupportable  incumbrance  of  the 
buoy.  The  buoy,  becoming  a  counter- 
poize 


224     VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

poize  to  the  weight  of  the  Whale,  rifes 
to  the  furface,  when  the  harpooner  who 
follows  as  much  as  he  can  in  the  path 
of  the  fifh,  at  laft  comes  up  with  his 
balloon  and  takes  pofleflion  of  his  prize  j 
a  mode  of  whaling  however  only  practi- 
cable in  the  open  fea,  fince  among  fhoals 
of  ice  the  buoy  would  unavoidably  either 
be  deftroyed  or  carried  out  of  fight  and 
loft  by  the  intervention  of  the  ice.  Befides, 
in  an  unfrozen  fea,  as  well  as  on  the  con- 
fines of  the  ice,  the  Whale  is  but  rare  j 
it  being  in  the  higher  latitudes  alone  that 
fhe  is  found  in  any  degree  of  frequency. 

As  foon  as  the  Whale  has  been  laid 
along  fide  of  the  velTel,  it  becomes  the 
bufinefs  of  the  crew  to  get  the  blubber 
on  board;  and  the  carvers,  as  a  precau- 
tion againft  flipping  down  on  the  greafy 
Ikin,  fit  to  the  foles  of  their  boots  a 
fquare  piece  of  iron  or  a  fort  of  patten 
garnifhed  with  fpikes.  Furniflied  with 
knives  of  different  fizes  from  two  to  three 
feet  and  an  half,  inferted  in  handles  three 
or  perhaps  four  feet  long,  they  defcend 
upon  the  carcafe,  which  is  furrounded  with 

canoes 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.  22^ 

canoes  containing  all  the  other  implements 
of  diiTedion.     They  make  an  incifion  near 
the  head,  cutting  a  circular  fedtion  of  fat 
without  feparating  it  from  the  flelh,  in  the 
form    of    a    collar,    which   by    means    of 
hooks  and    pullies   enables   them   to   turn 
up  new  furfaces  to  the  knife.     The  blub- 
ber is  then  divided  into  longitudinal  ft  ripes 
or  llices  from  head  to  tail,  and  fubdivided  tranf- 
verfely  into  pieces  of  four  or  five  feet,  which 
are  hoifted  on  board  by  the  afiftance  of  the 
capftern.     Thefe   large   portions   are   once 
more  fubdivided  into  fmaller  ones  of  about 
a   foot   and  an    half,    which    are    thrown 
into  the  hold  in  order  to  their  being  after- 
wards ftored  up.     The  gums,   containing 
the  beard  or  whale  bones,  are  got  on  board 
intire  ;   but  afterwards   divided  by  wedges 
into  convenient  portions. 

The  carvers  return  to  the  fat  now  col- 
lecSted  in  the  hold,  and  prepare  it  for 
the  cafks,  by  ftripping  off  fuch  flefhy  and 
fmewy  appendages  as  attached  it  to  the 
folids.  The  flices  are  again  cut  into  pieces 
of  four  or  five  inches,  and  thrown  into 
a  large  tub,  from  which  they  are  fliovele  1 

Vol,  III,  Q^  into 


226    VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.' 

into  a  funnel  inferted  in  a  cafk  ;  and  as  the 
fat  has  been  fomewhat  melted  by  the  for- 
mer part  of  the  procefs,  it  is  flowed  in 
this  manner  with  little  difficulty.  The 
more  coarfe  and  fibrous  parts  of  the  fat, 
which  are  feparated  with  great  care  from 
that  of  the  beft  quality,  they  convey  into 
feparate  caiks,  throwing  the  hard  and 
fkinny  filaments  into  the  fea  ;  a  refufe, 
however,  which,  after  being  dried,  contri- 
butes to  the  fubfiflence  of  thofe  mife- 
rable  favages  who  roam  the  fhores  of 
Davis's  Straits,  The  whole  of  this 
bufinefs  is  executed  by  means  of  an  ap- 
paratus confifting  of  knives,  ihovels,  forks, 
&c.  without  the  crew  at  all  touching 
the  fat  with  their  fingers.  There  arc 
other  articles  of  detail  on  this  fubjedl,  but 
too  unimportant  to  be  defcribed  here. 

A  Whale  of  the  middle  fize,  fuch  as 
we  met  with  on  this  cruize,  meafure» 
forty-eight  feet  from  the  head  to  the 
extremity  of  the  tail,  and  twenty- fix  in 
the  largefi;  circumference,  which  is  at  the 
head.  The  head  is  a  little  more  in 
length   than  4  of   the   whole   body;    the 

opening 


VOYAGE   TO   THE  NORTH   POLE.    22/ 

opening  between  the  two  branches  of  the 
tail,  is  a  little  lefs  than  the  length  of 
the  head,  with  two  feet  and  an  half  in 
depth  ;  the  breadth  of  the  fins  is  -1  of 
that  of  the  tail  ;  and  their  length  a  little 
more  than  their  breadth.  The  jawbones, 
uniting  before  in  an  eliptical  form,  are 
eighteen  feet  each  ;  the  gums  are  four- 
teen in  length,  and  contain  the  roots  of 
the  beard  or  whalebone  attached  to  the 
upper  jaw,  whofe  extremity  forms  the 
fnout  or  muzzle  of  the  iifh.  The  eyes 
are  placed  laterally  on  each  fide  of  the 
head  ;  the  orbit  from  one  corner  of  the 
eyelid  to  the  other  is  five  inches  ;  and 
the  eye  ball,  which  is  three  inches  in  dia- 
meter, is  covered  with  a  kind  of  retina, 
fliewing  the  black  of  the  pupil  partially 
in  the  form  of  a  vertical  oval.  At  one  foot 
diftance  behind  the  eyes  iland  the  ears,  with 
a  very  fmall  tube  not  exceeding  the  bore 
of  a  tobacco  pipe;  the  orifice  of  the 
tube,  which  creeps  in  a  fpiral  line  acrofs 
the  flefh  and  fat,  feems  loaded  with  the 
humors  of  the  ear. 

qL.2  The 


228     VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

The  noflrils  are  feated  five  or  fix  feet 
before  the  eyes,  but  in  a  high  plane,  and 
run  acrofs  the  upper  jaw  ;  their  orifice 
forms  the  arch  of  a  circle,  whofe  radius 
is  {even  inches  -,  but  the  nafal  duâ:  gra- 
dually diminiihes,  and  at  the  diftance  of 
a  foot,  internally,  does  not  exceed  five. 
The  noftrils  are  feparated  by  a  membrane 
two  inches  thick  externally,  but  which 
increafes  in  dimenfion  farther  up  ;  the  fkin 
round  the  orifice  is/oft  and  flexible,  with 
the  capacity  of  clofing  for  the  purpofe 
of  excluding  the  water;  the  intermediate 
membrane  is  likewife  formed  to  dilate 
and  contrat,  in  fuch  a  manner  as  to  open 
and  fliut  the  canal  ;  the  ufe  of  the  nof- 
trils  in  this,  as  in  other  animals,  is  reipi- 
ration,  which  the  Whale  performs  by 
blowing  the  water  backvyard. 

The  navel  and  the  general  ftrudure  of 
the  parts  of  generation,  are  very  much 
the  fame  in  the  Whale  as  in  quadrupeds. 
"We.  obferve  in  the  male  an  eliptical  cavity 
or  fheath  about  four  feet  in  length,  and  eight 
inches  in  depth;  which,  from,  a  rotundity 
in  the  fleih,  appears  almoil  clofe.  Three 
6  or 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.      229 

or  four  inches  from  the  commence- 
ment of  this  cavity,  backwards,  are  two 
holes,  which  contain  the  tefticles,  and 
near  which  is  the  penis.  The  penis  ex- 
tends the  whole  length  of  the  fheath  or 
cavity,  and  terminates  in  a  point,  in 
which  is  a  fnall  perforation  for  the 
purpofe  of  animal  evacuation.  At^  the 
diftance  of  a  foot  behind  thefe  parts  is 
the  anus  or  excremental  dudl,  preiènting 
an  opening  of  three  inches. 

In  the  female  we  find  two  teats,  placed 
laterally  before  the  parts  of  fex,  and  nearly 
fix  inches  in  diameter;  the  nipple  is  hard, 
and  fhrinks  under  the  furface  of  the  teat, 
which  is  fomewhat  globular  in  its  form- 
ation ;  the  nipple  is  two  inches  in  length, 
by  one  and  an  half  in  diameter,  and 
terminates  in  a  point.  The  ladteal  canal, 
winding  near  the  furface,  leads  to  a  fmall 
bafon  or  refervoir,  and  has  its  termination 
at  another  of  greater  dimenfions.  The 
external  diftindtion  of  fex  confifhs  in  a 
longitudinal  flit  of  eleven  inches  -,  and  is 
formed  inwardly  of  a  hard  fubilance  ap- 
proaching to  the  confiilency  of  bone, 
Q^  3  covered 


230       VOYAGE   TO  THE   NORTH  POLE. 

covered  with  a  Ûï\q  kind  of  flefh,.  A  little 
v^ithin  the  aperture  is  a  fold  of  carti- 
laginous fubflance  of  a  rough  and  irre- 
gular furface,  before  which  is  the  urinary 
paiTage,  and  behind  it  a  canal  of  a  fmaller 
fize  ;  clofe  to  the  longitdinal  flit  behind 
is  the  anus. 

In  the  flrudure  of  the  mouth  we  find 
only  three  bones,  the  two  bones  of  the  lower 
jaw  and  the  nafal  bone,  to  which  are  at- 
tached two  large  lips  covering  the  beard, 
and  a  vaft  tongue  of  a  foft  fubilance,, 
fourteen  feet  in  length,  fix  in  breadth, 
and  three  in  thicknefs. 

The  palate  is  compofed  of  the  whale- 
bones arranged  in  plates  on  each  iide  of 
the  upper  jaw,  to  which  they  are  attached 
by  a  white  fubflance  of  the  nature  of 
hard  tallow,  but  finer  and  more  compact 
in  the  grain.  The  plates  run  parallel  to 
each  other,  but  a  little  carved,  and,  mak- 
ing a  fvveep  on  each  lide  of  the  mouth, 
towards  the  throat,  prefent  the  appear- 
ance of  a  vault  or  gothic  arch.  They 
are  from  ten  to  eleven  feet  in  length,  by 
five  inches  and  an  half  in  their  common 

breadth. 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.      23I 

breadth,  with  two  lines  in  thicknefs.  They 
are  difpofed  furface  againft  furface  in  the 
manner  of  leaves  prefenting  their  edges 
to  the  eye,  fo  that  the  breadth  of  the 
plates  becomes  the  depth  of  the  palate. 
The  palate  is  covered  with  a  kind  of 
hair,  which  is  about  fifteen  inches  long 
at  the  extremity  of  the  plates,  and  feems 
to  be  nothing  more  than  the  continu- 
ation of  the  fmall  fibres  of  the  whale- 
bone. The  plates  become  fmaller  as  they- 
approach  the  lip  of  the  jaw,  where  they 
terminate  in  a  point.  This  proviiion  of 
nature  is  meant  to  anfvver  the  purpofe  of 
teeth;  the  plates  enable  the  animal  to 
bruize  as  well  as  to  colledl  her  food, 
while  the  hairs  aâ:ing  like  a  net,  detain 
fmall  fubflances,  and  allow  the  water  to 
efcape. 


0^4  CHAP. 


232     VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE» 


CHAP.    XXIX. 

CoîTJeâfures  refpeSîîng  the  Food  of  the  Whale 
— Continuation  of  its  Natural  Hi/iory — 
the  Errors  which  have  crept  into  the 
Defcr'iption  of  this  Animal — and  a  few 
philofophical  Reflections  which  naturally 
occurred  to  the  Author  y  from  the  Contem- 
platioîî  of  fo  flupendous  a  Creature, 

Am  unable  to  fay  what  conftitutes 
the  food  of  the  Whale,  though  gene- 
rally it  fecms  to  confift  of  fubflances  of 
a  fmail  fize,  not  very  folid,  and  probably 
of  an  aqueous  kind,  as  the  elafticity  of 
the  whalebone  certainly  would  not  yield 
to  any  thing  either  hard  or  tough.  I 
made  the  failors  hoi  ft:  up  a  fmall  Whale 
to  the  capft:erns,  in  •  order  that  I  might 
have  an  opportunity  of  examining  her 
ilomach  ;  but  the  tackle  by  which  flic 
was  fufpended  giving  way,  and  the  men 
in  the  boat  below  having  narrowly  efcaped 
being  hurt,  I  abandoned  my  defign.  Some 
pretend  to  affirm  that  the  Whale  eats  a 

fpecies 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.      233 

fpecies  of  Polypus  of  the  fmall  11  ze  of  a 
bean  -,  others,  that  fhe  lives  on  a  flefhy 
excrefcence,  which  I  was  fhown,  as  large 
as  an  egg,  and  nearly  in  the  fhape  of  a 
melon.  The  longitudinal  fibres  that  em- 
brace its  fpherical  furface,  give  it  very 
much  the  ribbed  appearance  of  that  fruit  ; 
while  red  threads,  traverfing  it  internally, 
render  its  colour  of  a  reddilb  hue;  the 
reR  of  it  confifls  of  a  kind  of  mucilaginous 
fubftance.  But  I  am  very  doubtful  how 
far  we  may  reafonably  afcribe  the  nouriib- 
ment  of  the  Whale  to  this  excrefcence; 
for  having  expofed  it  to  the  fun,  I  found 
there  remained  of  it  in  a  dried  Rate  next 
to  nothing,  and  yet,  as  the  excrements 
of  the  animal,  which  are  of  a  faftron  co- 
lour, are  by  no  means  deftitute  of  con- 
fiilency,  it  feems  natural  to  fuppofe,  that 
her  aliment,  whatever  it  may  be,  is  of  a 
more  fubftantial  kind.  My  own  opinion 
is,  that  the  Whale  feeds  upon  flirimps  ; 
for  I  afterwards  caupfht  a  fea  wolf,  hav- 
ing  his  flomach  full  of  them;  a  circum- 
ilance  which  ferves  at  leaf!:  to  (hew  that 
the  fl:irimp   is   in  great  abundance  at  the 

bottom 


234     VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

bottom  of  the  fea.  Upon  the  fuppofition 
that  this  is  adlually  her  food,  nature's 
fubftitute  for  teeth  is  excellently  contrived, 
for  colleding,  as  well  as  for  bruizing  the 
means  of  her  fupport  ;  befides,  the  arrange- 
ment of  the  plates,  or  whalebone,  is  clofe 
enough  to  prevent  fuch  fmall  fubftances 
as  the  fhrimp  from  efcaping  through  their 
intervals. 

I  caufed  a  piece  of  flefli,  containing  a 
part  of  the  efophagus,  to  be  extracted  from 
the  mouth  of  a  Whale;  the  alimentary 
canal  was  about  five  inches  in  circum- 
ference, and  formed  at  a  certain  depth  a 
fpecies  of  bafon  perforated  by  a  fécond 
canal.  The  orifice  of  this  lafl  appeared 
proteded  by  a  fort  of  lining  prefenting  a 
circular  canal;  by  which  contrivance  the 
food  is  made  to  pafs  round  it,  and  con- 
fequently  guarded  againft  falling  into  the 
fécond  paflage.  If  by  accident  the  food 
fhould  deviate  from  its  proper  diredion, 
it  will  be  received  by  the  circular  canal, 
to  be  afterwards  returned  by  the  coughing 
of  the  animal,  into  its  natural  courfe.  This 
canai  is  befides  fhut  by  a  kind  of  valve 
2  .   forming 


VOYAGE  TO  THE    NORTH  POLE.    235 

forming  tliree  points,  one  of  which,  like 
the  point  of  a  triangle,  enters  wedge- 
ways  betwixt  the  two  others.  The  valve 
confifls  of  a  cartilage  fomewhat  long  but 
flexible,  and  is  covered  with  flefh  of  a 
fine  texture.  The  canal,  formed  likewife 
of  a  flexible  cartilaginous  fubftanee,  be- 
comes thicker  and  more  capacious  at  a 
fmaller  diftance.  It  feemed,  however,  no 
where  open  in  a  relaxed  flate,  and  is  pro- 
bably fo  contrived  as  to  remain  conflantly 
/hut,  except  when  the  Whale  chufes  to 
dilate  it  for  the  purpofe  of  refpiration.  The 
orifice  is  about  four  inches  in  diameter, 
and  the  canal  itfelf  is,  I  apprehend,  what 
we  call  the  efophagus  -,  but  an  anatomift 
would  have  underftood  and  executed  this 
part  of  my  diary  in  a  ftyle  to  which  I 
cannot  pretend. 

The  fins  have  five  cartilaginous  bones,with 
articulations  refembling  thofe  of  the  fingers, 
but  very  flightly  marked  ;  perhaps  in  the 
great  chain  of  animated  nature,  the  Whale 
forms  that  link  which  conneds  the  Sea- 
calf  with  the  fcaly  tribes. 

The 


l^^^     VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH   POLE. 

The  ftrength  of  the  tail  is  chiefly  ex- 
erted by  means  of  an  afTemblage  of  muf- 
clcs  running  on  each  fide  of  the  fpine. 
It  confifts  of  fix  or  {qv^ïi  fmall  ones, 
each  of  which  is  three  lines  in  diameter, 
and  the  whole  is  united  by  a  fet  of 
nerves,  and  covered  by  a  membranous  fub- 
flance. 

The  brain  confifi:s  of  a  fubfiance  re- 
fembling  foft  tailow,  with  threads  or  fila- 
ments crofiing  it  in  all  directions.  As 
to  the  quantity  belonging  to  this  fpecies, 
I  can  only  fay  in  general,  that  in  this 
inilance  it  was  fufficient  to  fill  a  large 
pail.  The  folid  fiefh  runs  in  fiirong  fibres 
like  that  of  the  Ox,  is  of  a  red  colour, 
and  about  three  inches  in  depth  j  imme- 
diately over  the  flefh  lies  the  blubber, 
which  in  fome  parts  is  from  eight  to  ten, 
and  in  others  from  twelve  to  fourteen 
inches  deep;  the  whole  being  covered  with 
a  black  ikin  ten  lines  in  thicknefs. 

Like  all  the  native  animals  of  cold  re- 
gions, the  Whale  has  a  great  flock  of 
blood  and  animal  heat.  I  introduced 
Reaumur's  Thermometer  into  the  carcafe 

of 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.      237 

of  a  Whale  that  had  been  dead  about 
an  hour  and  an  half;  but  after  fcven  mi- 
nutes it  only  rofe  to  17^.  In  this  cafe 
however,  befides  that  I  had  accefs  only 
to  the  fat,  as  the  tail  had  been  cut  off, 
the  blood  was  in  a  great  meafure  dif- 
charged,  and  confequently  I  could  not  re- 
gard it  as  a  fair  experiment.  I  thruil 
my  hand  into  the  body  of  a  Whale  which 
had  been  dead  fome  days,  and  felt,  1  am 
fure,  a  greater  degree  of  heat  than  had 
been  exprefled  by  the  thermometer  in  the 
former  inftance  ;  but  in  this  cafe  I  did 
not  chufe  to  meafure  the  heat  with  the 
thermometer,  as  it  had  dropped  into  the 
blubber,  and  was  with  difficulty  recovered, 
in  the  firft  experiment. 

The  general  colour  of  the  Whale  is 
black;  the  under  part  and  edges  of  the 
mouth  are  white,  or  black  mixed  with 
white  ;  the  eyelaihes,  the  navel,  the  paps 
of  the  female,  and  the  organs  of  fex,  are 
white;  the  general  effedt  of  the  two  lail 
is  that  of  a  white  Jfeur  de  lis.  The  fear 
of  a  wound  to  which  this  animal  is  ex- 
tremely liable,   particularly  on  the  back, 

tail. 


23S     VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

tail,  and  fins,  from  the  accidents  of  the 
ice,  and  the  hoililities  of  the  fword  fifli, 
is  always  white.  The  v/hite  colour  is 
much  more  prevalent  on  the  body  of  an 
old  than  on  that  of  a  young  Whale,  and 
probably  depends  in  this  fpecies,  as  in 
land  animals,  on  the  circumflance  of  age 
and  the  ftate  of  the  bodily  fluids. 

Adhering  to  the  fkin,  and  very  frequently 
under  the  fins,  we  meet  with  a  fpecies 
of  Sea-loufe,  which  feeds  and  thrives  in 
this  fituation  ;  it  is  about  the  fize  of  a 
fmall  bean. 

The  back  of  the  Whale  is  commonly 
reprefented  higher  and  more  arched  than 
it  really  isj  a  miftake  which  probably  has 
arifen  from  the  appearance  fhe  makes  upon 
the  furface  of  the  water.  In  this  atti- 
tude, as  well  as  in  that  of  diving,  the 
back  only  is  vifible,  the  head  being  funk 
between  the  back  and  nafal  bones.  The 
elevation  of  the  former  is  about  two  feet, 
and  that  of  the  latter  a  foot  and  an  half 
above  the  level  of  her  body. 

The  female,  as  I  have  already  obferved, 
feems  10  have  only  one  cub  at  a  birth , 

I  con- 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.    239 

I  conceive  there  is  a  fpecific  difference 
in  the  fize  of  the  Whale  in  thefe  feas, 
that  of  the  north  appearing  longer  but 
more  flender  than  that  of  the  fouth  weft; 
and  I  am  fure  I  have  feen  fmall  Whales 
which  were  of  a  greater  age  than  others 
of  much  larger  fize.  The  V/hale  which 
was  the  fubjedt  of  the  above  remarks, 
being  of  the  ordinary  lize,  yielded  fixty 
barrels  of  oil  -,  there  are  fome,  though  rare, 
from  which  are  obtained  a  hundred  and 
fifty;  and  there  are  many  which  furniih 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  barrels  only. 

When  I  refled:  on  the  enormous  fize 
of  thefe  fifhes,  which  I  fhould  regard,  if 
I  may  be  allowed  fo  to  exprefs  myfelf, 
as  forming  a  part  of  the  winged  tribes  of 
the  aquatic  fluid,  I  cannot  help  calling 
to  remembrance  the  animals  of  the  mod 
diftinguiflied  magnitude,  which  people  the 
aerial  fluid,  and  which  are  endowed  with 
an  organized  fyftem,  and  with  principles 
of  life  and  growth,  fuited  to  the  parti- 
cular mode  of  their  exiftence. 

Attending  to  fuch  as  are  permanently 
fixed  in  the  foil,   and   of  fuperior  dimen^ 

fions. 


240     VOYAGE  'to  the  NORTH  PÔLE. 

fions,  I  obferve  the  vafl  and  majeftic  trees 
of  America  holding  the  firft  place.  Among 
beings  which  creep  or  walk,  whether  with 
a  flow  and  reftrained  or  more  accelerated 
motion,  the  largefl:  is  the  Elephant  ;  and 
among  thofe  which  fometimes  walk,  but 
more  comraonly  foar  aloft  in  the  air;  the 
moft  diftinguiflied  for  fize  is  the  Cazoot 
or  Oflrich. 

Now  I  am  unacquainted  with  any 
thing  in  the  aqueous  fluid  analogous  to 
thefe  tribes,  except  the  Madrepore,  which 
is  of  an  immenfe  extent,  and,  like  vege- 
tables, fixed  to  the  foil  ;  and  the  Whale 
which  can  quit  the  ground  like  the  Of- 
trich,  and  roam  at  difcretion  through  the 
incumbent  fluid.  I  know  not  whether 
beings  have  been  formed  to  creep  or  walk 
under  the  water  of  the  great  deep  j  but 
if  there  be  any  clofe  analogy  between  the 
inhabitants  of  the  aerial  and  aqueous  fluids, 
and  if  I  may  compare  the  Madrepore  to 
the  American-tree,  and  the  Whale  to  the 
Cazoot  or  Ofl:ridge,  of  what  enormous 
fize  mufl:  that  animal  be,  which,  corref- 
ponding  to  the   Elephant,  treads  the  foil 

at 


VOYAGE   TO   THE   NORTH   POLE.       24Ï 

at    the    bottom    of    the    ocean.       As    to 
Crabs,  Lobfters,  and  the  larger  fpecies  of 
the    fame    genus,     which     crawl    on    the 
borders   of    the   fea,    I   conlider   them    as 
races  of  mere  infed:s,  which  frequent  the 
mountainous    ridges    of    the    marine    foil. 
It  fhould  feem  highly  probable  from  ana- 
logy,  that    in    the   great   chain    of  beings 
which    replenifli    the    terraqueous    globe, 
there  are   many   links    which    have   never 
yet   fallen    within    the    fphere    of  human 
obfervation.      My  conje(flure  on  this  fub- 
jed:  receives  fome   countenance   frcfm    the 
many  curious   difcoveries    made   by    natu- 
ralifts  in  modern   times;   men   who,   with 
infinite  induftry  and  penetration,  have  pur- 
fued   this  chain   to  a  very  great  extent. 

I  may,  perhaps,  have  dwelt  too  long  on 
the  article  of  the  Whale;  but  this  being 
the  animal  of  the  largeft  dimenfions  hitherto 
difcovered  in  our  planet,  I  thought  him 
intitled  to  more  than  ordinary  notice;  had 
I  been  more  converfant  in  the  lans^ua^e 
and  fcience  of  anatomy,  the  above  obfer- 
Vations    on    his    fi:rud:ure    and     economy 

Vol.  Ill,  R  would 


242      VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

woi^d  have  been  more  technical   as   v^ell 
as  inflrudiive  ;  but  I  return  to  the  fhip. 


CHAP.     XXX. 

'The  Ve^^eU  Jlationed  in  a  fmall  Creek,  is 
nearly  crtijhed  in  Pieces  by  large  Bodies 
of  Ice — the  curious  Motions  and  Evolu- 
tions of  thefe  Bodies — with  incredible 
Labour  a  Bafon  is  cut  in  the  Ice  ;  but 
is  not  fo  effediual  as  to  prevent  immi^ 
nent  Danger — the  Author  phikfophizes 
and  recounts  the  various  Perils  he  has 
run. 

I  HAVE  already  informed  the  reader 
that  w^e  moored  in  very  foggy  wea- 
ther on  a  bank  of  ice,  which  ftreached 
parallel  to  a  bay  about  a  league  in  breadth; 
and  except  this  fmall  piece  of  water  the 
fea  appeared  wholly  covered  with  ice.  We 
foon  found  reafon  to  have  little  confidence 
in  our  prefent  fituation^  an  immenfe  fhoal 
was  itta  drifting  towards  us,  and  we  made 

haftc 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH    POLE.     243 

hafte  to  tow  the  fhip  into  the  bottom  of 
a  fmall  creek»  but  fhe  prefently  fettled  on 
two  points  of  ice  which  compofed  the 
angle  we  occupied.  While  we  lay  here, 
completely  hemmed  in  by  the  fhoals  of 
ice,  numbers  of  Whales  fwam  on  the 
furface  with  impunity  in  the  bofom  of 
the  bay.  We  haftened  to  tranfport  onr 
boats  over  the  ice,  to  a  diftance  at  leaft 
equal  to  ten  cables'  length  ;  but  after  fub- 
miting  to  much  toil  and  fatigue,  the  crew 
returned  without  the  fmallefl  fuccefs;  never- 
thelefs,  our  ears  were  ftunned  with  noife^ 
for  by  this  time  the  Whales  had  begun 
to  blow  even  in  our  little  creek. 

The  next  day,  June  the  5th,  the  bay 
was  intirely  choked  up  ;  and  the  ice  fall- 
ing with  violence  on  the  fhoal  that  had 
barred  the  entrance  to  our  creek,  one 
of  our  capes  was  demolifhed.  It  is  dif- 
ficult to  convey  a  tolerable  idea  of  the 
various  evolutions  of  the  iTioals.  I  have 
feen  maffes  of  ice,  in  perfect  freedom,  drift 
in  directions  varying  from  each  other  àt 
lead  four  points  of  the  compafs  -,  another 
would  take  eight  different  routes  in  the 
R  2  fpace 


244    VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

fpace  of  three  hours  ;  a  third,  after  float- 
ing towards  us  with  confiderable  velocity, 
would  without   any   vifible   caufe   flacken 
its   pace,    veering    fometimes    to   one   fide- 
and  fometimes    to   another.     The   various 
configuration    of  the    inferior    as    well    as 
fuperior  furfaces  of  the  ice,  prefenting  it- 
feif  to  the  winds  and  currents  in  a  great 
diverfity  of  afped:s,  is    the  only  reafon   I 
can   affign    for  thefe   extraordinary  move- 
ments.    A  bank,  however,  from  its  vafl;  ex- 
tent   is    but   little  aifeded    by   the  wind; 
the  movements    of  all   fuch   mafles    feem 
to  be  produced  and  regulated  by  their  owrt 
mutual  interference.   If  the  impelling  power 
happens  to  fall  on  the  center  of  a  bank, 
the   whole   moves   forward   uniformly  -,    if 
it  be  applied  to  one  end,  the  hither  ex- 
tremity turns  off  obliquely,  while  the  mo- 
tion imprefled  upon  the  other  is  greater  or 
lefs   according    to    its    diftance   from    the 
point  of  concuffion  ;  if  the  end  of  a  bank, 
driven  in  this   manner   from    the   line  of 
its   courfe,    falls    upon    another    cape,    it 
either  breaks  it,  or  is  itfelf  retarded  in  its 
progrefs  ;  and  ihould  the  refifling  be  more 

.   than 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.     245 

than  a  counterpoize  to  the  impelling  force, 
the  motion  of  the  latter  will  acquire  a 
new  dire(ftion.  Thus  are  the  fliocks  and 
interferences  of  thofe  enormous  maffes  as 
various  as  they  are  confiant  in  their  ope- 
ration ;  but,  a  thick  haze  having  drawn 
a  veil  over  what  was  paffing  around  us, 
I  had  nearly  paid  too  dear  for  all  the 
knowledge  I  obtained  on  this  fubje6t. 

Some  hours  after  the  cape  of  our  creek 
was  deftroyed,   we   obferved  from  the   ac- 
cumulated ilate  of  the  fmall  ice,  that  com- 
preffion    was   rapidly  increaling,   and  were 
not  a   little   appreheniive  that  as    foon  as 
it  fhould  reach   the  veffel   fhe  muft  ^o  to 
pieces  ;   a   difafler  which   befel  two   fhips 
this  feafon,   and  of  which  there  have  been 
many  examples  on   former  occafions.     In 
confidence,  however,  that  the  center  of  the 
bank,  upon  which  we  were  moored,  would 
be    able   to   counteraâ:   the    force   of  the 
prefTure,  we  refolved  to  conftrud:  a  bafon, 
where  we  hoped  the  fhip   might   be   ex- 
pofed  to  lefs   danger.     I  viewed  the  mag- 
nitude  of    this    undertaking   with  infinite 
furprize;    an  expedient  I  had  indeed  heard 
of,  but  the  praâ:icability  of  which  I  could 
R  3  fcarcely 


246    VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

fcarcely  conceive.     The   labour  and   per- 
feverance,  however,  of  our  indefatigable  crew, 
were  in   the    end   crowned    with    fuccefs. 
The  ice   faws  employed  on  this   occafion 
were  fourteen  feet  in  length,  feven  inches 
broad,  and  two  lines  and  an  half  in  thick- 
nefs,  with  teeth  an  inch  and  an  half  deep. 
In    the    upper   end   of  the    faw    are    two 
holes,  meant  to  receive  two  handles  which 
crofs  each  other,  and  at  which  fifteen  or 
lixteen  men   can   work   with  eafe   at  the 
fame  time.       If  the  depth   of  the   ice   is 
fuch   as    to   render   it   impraticable    with 
the  ordinary  application  of  the  faw,  a  couple 
of  pofls   are  ereded   with   a  crofs   beam, 
from   which  the  faw   is    hung,   having  a 
large  weight  appended  at  its  lower  extre- 
mity,   when,    by  bawling   the  inftrument 
on  the  beam  they  operate  with  great  effedl 
againft  the  ice.      The  jaws  are  of  different 
fizes,  correfponding  to  the  various  thicknef? 
of  the    ice.       The    failors    having   traced 
an  outline  of  the  bafon,   cut  the  inclofed 
area  into  parallel  ferions,  which  they  got 
rid  of  by  finking  fome  apd  flowing  others 
in  a  fmall  piece  of  water  that  remained 
a  head   of  us.      We   now  unfhipped  the 

rudder. 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.      247 

rudder,  and  havyled  the  velTel  into  her 
new  berth.  This  appeared  to  me  an  ira- 
portant  though  a  very  laborious  operation  ; 
pity  it  is,  however,  that  man  Ihould  thus  be 
degraded  into  a  mere  tool  or  engine  of 
avarice;  which,  taking  advantage  of  his 
poverty,  drives  him  to  the  frozen  regions 
of  the  pole,  there  to  toil  and  fuifer  in 
adminiftering  to  the  luxury  of  a  few  ef- 
feminate individuals. 

In  order  that  the  compreffion  of  the 
flioals  might  get  from  head  to  flern,  the 
dire6lion  in  which  her  power  of  reiiflance 
is  moil  confiderable,  we  laid  the  (hip's  bow 
towards  the  mouth  of  the  bafon.  The 
conftruiftion  of  a  Dutch  Greenland-man 
is  particularly  adapted  to  the  navigation 
of  the  ice  ;  befides  many  other  circum- 
ftances  in  which  flie  differs  from  fliips  of 
the  ufual  conftrudlion,  ilie  confifls  wholly 
of  double  plank?  of  oak,  extending  all  the 
way  to  her  keel  ;  a  precaution  of  infinite 
moment  in  a  compreffed  ftate,  when  fhe 
is  not  only  in  danger  from  the  violence 
offered  to  her  fides,  but  alfo  from  the 
flîoçks  of  ice  which,  drifting  under  the 
R  4  Hioals 


248       VOYAGE   TO   THE   NORTH   POLE. 

fhoals,  in  their  efforts  to  come  afloat,  ftrike 
with  conflderable  force  againfl  her  bottom. 
,  We  received  little  moleftation  for  fome- 
time  ;  but,  on  the  6th,  fucli  was  the  vio- 
lence of  compreflion,  that  the  fhoal  at 
the  mouth  of  the  creek  crumbled  in  pieces 
and  difappeared,  the  fragments  forcing  their 
way  under  the  ice.  But  what  was  of 
more  ferions  confequence  to  us,  the  bank 
itfelf  foon  experienced  a  limilar  fate,  while 
the  blocks  into  which  it  parted,  ruflied 
againfl  each  other  with  great  velocity. 
The  force  of  the  prelTure  now  falling  upon 
our  larboard  quarter,  the  fliip  lay  over,  mak- 
ing herfelf  a  bed  in  the  ice,  which  fhe 
ground  to  powder.  The  fmaller  ice  ac- 
cumulated in  heaps,  and  the  fhip  was 
fcrewed  up  in  fo  dangerous  a  degree,  that 
I  could  perceive  her  figure  at  times  fen- 
libly  altered.  She  was  labouring  in  the 
utmoft  diftrefs,  her  convulfed  frame  be- 
gan to  make  a  noife  fimilar  to  that  of 
the  capflern,  when  employed  to  raife  an 
immenfe  weight,  and  the  comprefHon  of 
the  fhoals  ftill  increafing,  we  exped:ed 
every  moment  the  crifis  of  her  difTolution, 

In 


VOYAGE  TO  THE   NORTH   POLE.    249 

In  the  mean  time  we  raifed  from  the  hold 
fome  cafks  of  proviiions,  as  the  means  of 
Dur  fubfiftance,  when  we  Hiould  have  the 
misfortune  to  leave  our  iliip  a  wreck  in 
the  ice.  It  is  true,  we  could  take  refuge 
on  the  (hoals,  and,  with  the  affifbance  of 
our  boats,  furvive  the  catallrophe  for  fome 
time,  by  making  our  way  from  one  illan(J 
to  another;  but  what  deplorable  hard- 
ships and  toil  feemed  to  await  us  in 
this  inhofpitable  retreat!  As  we  already 
conceived  ourfeives  a  company  of  unfor- 
tunate exiles,  doomed  to  all  the  nVors 
of  cold  and  famine,  on  the  face  of  thoie 
frozen  deferts,  I  wàflied  to  colled:  my 
thoughts,  and,  by  the  aid  of  reflection, 
to  ftrengthen  my  mind  againfh  every  ap- 
proaching fcene  of  mifery  to  which  I 
might  be  expofed.  For  this  purpofe,  I 
JDrpught  under  review  many  perilous  litu- 
ations  from  which  I  had  efcaped  in  for- 
mer fbages  of  my  travels.  I  figured  to 
myfelf  the  raih  and  wrathful  fivage  of 
America,  whofe  fury  I  had  encountered  ; 
the  anguifh  of  fapiine  I  had  felt  in  the 
plains  of  Tegas  ;  my  captivity  on  the 
3         ,  coafl 


250      VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

coaft  of  Samar  in  the  South-fea;  the 
vengeance,  ready  to  fall  upon  me,  of 
the  incenfed  natives  of  the  Arabian  de- 
fertsj  the  imminent  danger  of  fhipwreck 
I  had  run  off  Cape  Tourmentes,  near  the 
coaft  of  Africa  ;  in  fine,  the  rocks  and 
tempefls  of  unknown  feas  in  the  fouthern 
hemifphere  ;  from  all  which  the  arm  of 
Pr-ovidcnce  had  exerted  itfelf  for  my  deli- 
verance, and  I  ftill  entertained  hope,  that 
the  fame  over-ruling  goodnefs  would  not 
forfake  me  now,  an  outcaft  amidft  the 
eternal  fnows  of  the  North  Pole.  We 
fat  in  mournful  lilence  as  we  liftened  to 
the  cracking  of  the  fliip,  which  feemed 
to  complain  under  the  prelTure  of  the 
Ihoals.  Her  head  was  forced  up  by  the 
îce,  which  had  comprefled  her  under  the 
bow  ;  but  all  our  refources  were  at  an 
end  :  this  was  a  moil  difmal  morning, 


CHAP. 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.      25I 


CHAP.      XXXI. 

After  encountering  a  Variety  of  Difficulties^ 
during  which,  by  the  Indefatigable  Exer- 
tions of  the  Crew,   a  new  Bafon  Is   cut 
In  the  Ice,  the   Veffel  Is    at  length  freed 
fro?n  her  perilous  Situation, 

AT  eleven  o'clock,  however,  the  in- 
tenfenefs  of  compreffion  ceafed;  the 
aâ:ivity  of  the  ice,  and  the  refiftance  of 
the  veffel,  counterpoifed  each  other,  and 
fhe  remained  quiet  till  fix  o'clock  in  the 
evening,  when  fhe  again  began  to  fuffer 
the  rude  attacks  of  the  fhoals.  The  force 
of  the  comprelTion,  however,  appeared  to 
be  fomewhat  blunted,  and  at  one  o'clock 
in  the  morning  it  fubfided  entirely;  an 
interval  of  refpite,  which  la  fled  all  the 
7th.  At  two  o'clock  in  the  morning  of 
the  8th,  the  preffure  revived,  though  not 
in  the  fame  immoderate  degree;  a  high 
flioal  difperfing  the  fmall  wreck  in  its 
progrefs,  drifted  under  our  bow,  and  funk 
fome  of  the  compreiTed  ice,  which  fur- 
rounded 


252      VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

rounded   the   veiTel.       But    fuch   was    the 
vafl  magnitude  of  this  mafs,  that  we  had 
every  thing  to  dread  for  her  fafety,  fhould 
it    happen    to    exert    itfelf   with   violence 
again  ft   the  fliip.     We  had   chofen  in   an 
evil  hour,  our  ftation  at  this  end  of  the 
bank,   for  in   the   courfe   of  thefe   vicifii- 
tudes  we  faw  channels  and  bays  of  con- 
iiderable     extent     at     no    great    diflance. 
Shoals,   however,  were  in  a  flate  of  con- 
stant fluduation,  infomuch  that   the  fame 
places   appeared  alternately  open,  and  oc- 
cupied with    the    ice.      Of  all   fituations, 
perhaps,   that  at   the  extremity  of  a  bank 
is  the  moft  hazardous  for  encountering  the 
attacks  of  the  ice;    fmce  there,  from  the 
vafl  momentum  of  the  mafs,  compreffion 
is    moft    likely    to   be   feverely   felt.      On 
this  fubjed:,  however,  it  is  extremely  dif- 
ficult to  lay  down  any  general  rule  ;    for 
if  at  the  extremity   of  a   bank    the   ihip 
is  in  great  jeopardy  of  being  in  the  cen- 
ter of  compreffion,   there,   in  return,    fhe 
has  a  better  chance  of  doubling  the  cape, 
and   eluding   the  danger   intirely,   than  in 
any  fituation  along  fide  the  ice. 

Either 


voVage  to  the  north  pole.    253 

Eithçr  cafe,  however,  has  its  difadvan- 
tages.     I    am   equally   uncertain    whether 
it  is  more    eligible    to    conllrud    a   balbn 
in  ice   of  a   very   thick   and    firm,    or    in 
that  of  a  more  flender    and   brittle   kind. 
One   is   apt   to    fuppofe    that    flrong    ice, 
being    lefs     liable    to     fail,     promifes    to 
place   the  vellel  in  a   ftate  of  greater   fe- 
curity;   but,   then  fliould  the  compreiljrig 
power  be  of  fufficient  force  to  break  the 
cohefion   of  thick   ice,   leaving   the  larger 
fragments  entire,    the    fhip    in    this    cafe, 
being  placed  in  the  center  of  compreffion, 
if  the  furrounding  ice  be  capable  of  greater 
refiftence  than  herfelf,   muft   infallibly   be 
crufhed  to  pieces.     If  on  the  contrary  the 
bafon  is  confl:rud:ed  in   ice   of  lefs   depth 
and  folidity,   the   vefTel   may    be    in   con- 
dition to  give  way  to   the  force  of  com- 
preffion  ;    grinding    and    heaping    up    the 
fmall  ice  as  The  recedes,  and  in  the  mean 
time    the   impelling  power   may    be   gra- 
dually exhaufted  ;  but  flill,  if  in  this  con- 
flid:  flie  happens   to  fall  upon  a  fragment 
of  much  folidity,  the  ilTue  may  prove  equally 
fetal. 

Such 


254    VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTlt  POLE. 

Such   are  the  accidents  by  which  £hips 
perifh  annually  in   thefe  feas  j   and    as   td 
the  precife  manner  in   which   the  difafler 
commonly  happens,   I  have  been  told  that 
the  veflel   is  laid  over   on  her    fide,  with 
her   head   forced  into  the  ice>    when   the 
power  of  prefTure  continuing  to  ad:  abaft, 
at   length   prevails,  and   bulges   her  ftern. 
It  is  to  be  obferved,   that  in  this  pofition 
fhe  prefents  the  weakeft  part  of  her  frame 
to   the  action   of  the   ice,    for    her   ftern 
being  either  plain  or  concave,  is  evidently 
much   lefs   capable  of  refiftance  than   any 
part  of  her  convex  face. 

On  the  9th,  a  bank  ftretching  weft 
from  our  own  broke  up,  and  the  frag- 
ments, probably  impelled  by  fome  ante- 
rior mafs,  divided  ours  into  fmaller  pieces. 
At  fix  o'clock  in  the  evening  the  lofty 
flioal,  under  our  bow,  abovementioned, 
drifted  feven  or  eight  fathoms  from  its 
place,  when  we  made  a  vigorous  effort 
to  recover  our  liberty,  but  without  fuc- 
cefs  ;  our  beft  ropes  and  poles  failing  in 
the  attempt,  it  was  utterly  impracticable 
to  cjifcngage  her  from  the  ice.  We  ima- 
gined 


VOYAGE  TO  tHE  ISfORTH  POLE.      255 

gined  flie  fluck  faft  to  ice  under  the 
water,  which  might  form  the  bafc  of 
fome  adjacent  fhoal.  At  ten  o'clock  the 
ice  which  had  drifted  a  little  returned, 
and  heaping  up  the  fmall  wreck,  began 
to  prefs  upon  us  with  confiderable  force. 
Next  day,  however,  the  bank  floated 
away  intirely,  when  Providence  at  length 
delivered  us  from  a  moft  painful  and 
dangerous  fituation.  After  having  difen- 
gaged  the  fliip,  a  manœuvre  which  our 
utmoft  exertions  were  but  barely  equal  to, 
we  found  fhe  had  flamped  her  image  on 
the  ice,  which  appeared  like  pounded 
glafs,  with  the  fame  precifion  as  if  it 
had  ferved  her  as  a  mould  ;  a  circum- 
ftance  from  which  we  may  have  fome 
idea  of  the  aftonifhing  degree  of  preiTure 
fhe  had  fufhained;  fuch  fads  will,  I  am 
afraid,  fcarcely  be  credited,  but  by  thofe 
who  have  {sen.  them.  In  the  meantime 
our  bank  had  been  conftantly  fhifting  its 
pofition,  veering  from  W.  N.  W.  to  N. 
4-  N.  W.  and  then  returning  to  the  N. 
W.  Our  latitude  was  78^  2'';  longi- 
tude 2^  weft;    the  variation  of  the  needle 


22^, 


2^6    VOYAGE   TO  THE  NORTH   POLE. 

22^.       The   weather    for  fome  days   had 

been  frequently  thick  and  hazy. 

We   now    warped   the    fhip    along    the 
fame   bank,    to    a    ftation    which    feemed 
lefs    liable    to   be    molefted    with    flioals  ; 
and   here   we   propofed  to  remain  till   the 
opening    of  the   ice    fhould    afford    us    a 
pafTage   into   channels    on    the    outlide    of 
the  bank.     For  this  purpofe  we  conflrud:^ 
ed  another  bafon,  always   taking  care  that 
the  head  of  the  velTel  fliould  lie  towards 
the   open    fea,    and    her   ftern   oppofite    to 
ice  of  moderate  refiftance,   fo  that  fhould 
compreffion  return,  flie  might  recoil  with- 
out injury  to  her  hull.     In  a  little  time, 
we   faw  a   flioal   floating   towards   us;    its 
progrefs   was   in   a   line  nearly  parallel  to 
the    bank,    neverthelefs,    it   touched    and 
carried  along  with    it   one   of  our   capes. 
Our  bafon  was  no  longer  in   condition  to 
be  of  any  ufe  to  us,  and  we  were  again 
looking  out  for  a  new  berth;   when  ob- 
ferving  a  creek,  which  communicated  with 
a  fmall   channel,   we  made  fhift  to  enter 
it,  and  at  lail:  found  ourfelves  in  a  flate  of 
fome  tranquillity. 

As 


VOYAGE   TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.       I^J 

As  the  haze  was  often  fo  thick  as  to 
prevent  our  feeing  at  any  diiliance,  we 
difpatched  a  boat  along  fide  of  the  bank 
to  reconnoitre  our  route.  The  bank  al- 
tered its  pofition  confiderably  ;  and  fronx 
the  W.  N.  W.  which  was  its  former  af- 
pedt,  veered  all  the  way  to  the  eafl.  The 
wind  was  conflantly  fmall  and  variable; 
nor  did  it  frefhen  till  the  17th,  when  it 
began  to  blow  from  the  quarter  of  the 
South-eajfl.  In  the  mean  time,  it  was 
evident  from  the  appearance  of  the  horizon, 
that  it  blew  a  gale  at  fea;  the  weather 
was  by  no  means  cold,  and  the  thermo- 
meter ftood  above  the  frofl.  The  fnow 
that  lay  upon  the  ice,  moiftened  for  fôme 
days  by  the  haze,  now  with  a  fmall  raia 
began  to  melt.  The  wind  increafed,  and 
on  the  18th,  blew  fomewhat  freili  ;  when 
the  flioals  broke  up  and  yielded  us  a  free 
navigation.  We  embraced  with  alacrity 
this  favourable  change  in  the  cirjcumftances 
of  the  ice,  and  in  fpite  of  a  thick  haze, 
efcaped  with  all  poffible  fpeed  from  the 
neighbourhood  of  this  formidable  bank. 

Vol.  III.  S  This 


258       VOYAGE   TO  TIÎE   NORTH   POLE, 

This  was  the  firfi;  inflance  of  a  frelli 
wind,  v/hich  v/as  of  any  confiderable  con- 
tinuance, iince  we  could  be  faid  to  have 
entered  the  ice  ;  our  former  winds,  as  well 
as  thofe  we  met  with  in  periods  fubfe- 
quent  to  the  prefent,  had  much  refem- 
hlance  to  the  gentle  land  breezes  of  fum- 
mer.  I  remarked  that  the  wind  always 
declined  towards  evening-:  a  faét  which 
fuggefted  a  few  refleâ:ions. 


CHAP.      XXXIÏ. 

.^Reflcttions  on  tropical  Winds,  and  the 
Calms  "which  almofi  conjîantly  prevail 
tiear  the  Poles — '^he  Voyage  is  piirfucd 
mnongfl  the  Ice — lingular  Difference  be- 
twixt  the  Sea  Wolves  of  the  North  and 
South  Seas — T^he  Traffic  the  Hamburgh - 
ers  carry  on  to  procure  the  Fat  of  thefe 
Animals. 

N    my    travels    round    the    world,    I 
found   that   the   eaft,    or  trade  winds, 
prevail    between     the     tropics    over     the 

whole 


VOYAGE   TO   THE   NORTH   POLE.       259 

whole  circumference  of  the  globe,  wichout 
any  other  variety  than  fuch  as  arifes  from 
ftorms  introduced  by  weflerly  winds.  Thefe 
winds  are  evidently  owing  to  the  vertical 
rays  of  the  fun,  ailing  upon  the  land 
on  either  lide  of  the  equator,  and  v/hich 
form  that  feafon  named  Hivernag^e  in  the 
torrid  parts  of  Africa  and  America,  and 
the  weflern  Monfoons  in  India  and 
China. 

Now,  as  the  fun  is  the  great  efficient 
principle  of  motion  and  aâ:ivity  in  bodies, 
to  what  fliall  we  afcribe  that  lethargic 
calm,  and  that  torpor,  fo  remarkable 
within  the  bounds  of  the  frozen  zone, 
but  to  its  extreme  diHiance  ;  whence  it 
feems  natural  to  fuppofe,  that  the  ele- 
ments approach  nearly  to  a  ftate  of  per- 
fed:  quiefcence  in  the  regions  diredly  under 
the  pole. 

We  direcfted  our  courfe  towards  the 
weft  ;  but  on  the  2Cth,  the  v/ind  continu- 
ing frelli,  we  were  obliged  to  come  to  our 
moorings  on  a  bank  :  we  lay  to  leeward, 
but  the  ice  making  a  movement  to  wind- 
ward, in  the  fpace  of  four  hours  the  wind 
S  3.  was 


200     VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

was  on  our  fide.  Having  coafled  the  ice 
three  leagues,  we  again  anchored  to  the 
leeward  j  but  the  ice  ftill  iliifting  round, 
in  a  few  hours  the  wind  blew  along  lide 
the  bank,  when,  dreading  that  we  fhould 
foon  be  difabled  from  ufing  our  fails, 
^nd  the  wind  abating  a  little,  we  got 
under  weigh.  A  thick  haze  prevented 
our  reaching  a  channel  for  which  we 
made,  and  we  were  under  the  neceffity 
of  laying  to.  Next  day  we  anchored 
on  the  fame  bank,  but  by  this  time  it 
had  loft  its  rotatory  motion,  and  drifted 
uniformly  in  one  diredion.  I  have  no 
doubt  that  thefe  changes  in  the  poiition 
of  this  bank,  originated  in  the  inter- 
ference of  fome  fimilar  mafs  at  one  of 
its  extremities. 

The  wind,  in  paffing  the  quarter  of  the 
weft,  became  calm,  and  returned  in  a  very 
gentle  breeze  from  the  fouth,  fouth-eaft. 
Though  involved  in  a  very  thick  haze, 
we  endeavoured  to  profit  by  the  prefent 
quiet  ftate  of  the  weather  to  purfue  our 
courfe  weftward  ;  in  a  higher  wind  we 
could   have    derived    no    benefit    whatever 

from 


VOYj^GE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.      261 

from  our  fails,  by  reafon  of  the  large  ice 
fo  frequent  between  the  banks.  One  of 
our  boats  plied  at  a  diftance  a-head  to 
diredt  our  way,  while  the  refl  took  us 
in  tow.  Our  only  beacon  in  this  ftate 
of  the  atmofphere  was  a  fort  of  white 
fringe  at  the  bafe  of  the  mifl:,  which 
was  occalioned  by  the  refiedion  of  the 
ice;  and  therefore  the  bed  method  of 
avoiding  the  flioals  was  to  fteer  the  fliip 
into  the  thickeft  of  the  haze.  We 
moored  upon  a  bank  in  order  to  give 
fome  refpite  to  the  crew,  but  a  ilioal 
moving  with  celerity  towards  us,  we  found 
it  convenient  to  get  under  fail,  by  the 
fpeedieft  means  in  our  pov/er.  The  fnow 
melted  copioully,  and  I  heard  it  fall  like 
rivulets  into  the  fea.  We  faw  Sea- wolves, 
and  a  fpecies  of  fifh  named  Polfcop,  the 
iirfh  of  the  kind  we  had  obferved  fo  far 
to  the  north.  Our  latitude  was  77^  15", 
our  longitude  8^  30'',  and  the  variation 
of  the  needle  26^.  We  faw  likewife  num- 
bers of  fir-trees  drifting  with  the  cur- 
rents. The  Polfcops  are  feen  in  troops, 
blow  at  the  furface,  and  leap  above  the 
S  3  water 


202     VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE^ 

water  like  the  Sea-hog.  They  are  black, 
have  a  fnoiit  like  a  boar,  but  more  coni- 
cal in  its  form,  and  are  about  20  ^et 
long. 

The  Sea-v^olf  of  the  north  differs  in 
fome  refpecls  from  that  of  the  South -feas  ; 
in  the  former,  the  fore  feet  are  formed 
with  toes,  inftead  of  a  thick  membrane, 
which  compofes  thofe  of  the  latter  ;  the 
toes  and  nails  are  well  formed,  ftrong, 
and  of  à  confiderable  length,  and  with- 
out any  extenfion  of  a  membranous  fub- 
ftance  beyond  the  nails.  The  hind  feet 
are  larger,  and  like  thofe  before,  have  the 
nails  placed  at  the  extremities  of  the  toes. 
The  extremity  of  the  fnout  is  larger,  the 
higher  part  of  the  fa,ce  more  depreffed, 
the  eyes  more  prominent,  the  head  and 
neck  fmaller,  and  the  tail  jfhorter  and 
more  round,  than  in  the  fame  animal  in 
the  fouthern  regions.  In  this  the  tail  is 
about  44:  inches  in  length,  and  refem- 
bles  that  of  the  flieep  upon  the  coaft  of 
Barbary;  but  the  hair  is  fhorter,  thinner, 
and  lefs  handfome  than  in  the  former. 

Ships 


VOYAGE   TO   THE  NORTH   POLE.    263 

Ships  come  from  Hamburgh,  annually, 
in  queft  of  the  Sea-wolves,  and  generally 
return  home  full  freighted  with  their  fat; 
they  are  found  in  the  greateft  plenty,  be- 
tween the  72*^  and  74^  of  latitude,  iii 
the  months  of  Marc'n,  April,  and  May. 
The  fifhermen,  who  on  tliis  occafion  never 
proceed  far  in  the  ice,  relate,  that  the 
winds  feldom  blow  againft,  but  com- 
monly in  a  line  parallel  to  the  flioals, 
when  they  are  ufed  to  take  fhelter  be- 
hind fome  point  or  promontory  of  the 
ice.  At  times,  but  rarely,  a  high  weft- 
erly  wind  blows  over  the  ice;  circum- 
flances  which  have  a  tolerable  agreement 
with  the  idea  that  the  atmofphere  of  the 
frozen  zone  is  of  a  peculiar  nature,  af- 
fording little  accefs  to  the  high  winds  of 
the  open  fea. 

Except  intervals  of  haze,  which  were 
very  frequent,  we  had  fine  weather,  with 
gentle  breezes  from  the  fouth,  during  the 
remainder  of  this  month.  We  continued 
our  courfe  fouth  wefl,  mooring  occafion - 
ally  on  the  ice  ;  but  the  interferences  of 
the  flioals,  and  the  fluâ:uating  flate  of 
S  4  the 


264     VOYAGE   TO   THE   NORTH   POLE. 

the  winds,  frequently  obliged  us  to  get 
under  fail  with  great  expedition.  The 
fea,  however,  was  tolerably  open,  and  our 
navigation  but  little  interrupted.  Mean 
while,  the  weather  was  by  no  means 
fevere,  and  the  mercury  was  rarely  fo  low 
as  the  fi-eezing  point.  But  though  the 
thermometer  ftood  above  froft  upon  deck, 
the  haze  froze  at  the  maft's  head,  and 
the  icicles  fell  in  abundance  during  the 
whole  inferior  day.  On  the  26th,  thf 
fun's  rays  were  flrong  enough -to  caufe 
an  exhalation  from  the  fea  water  which 
had  been  fpilt  on  deck,  and  the  fhips 
timbers  were  warm  to  the  touch.  On 
the  3d  of  July,  the  mercury  which  had 
pointed  7^,  all  the  inferior  day,  at  ten 
o'clock  in  the  evening  rofe  in  the  fun  to 
33°.  It  is  very  remarkable,  that  ever 
fmce  we  entered  regions  lefs  occupied  by 
the  ice,  and  confequently  expofing  a  greater 
furface  of  water,  the  barometer  even  in 
our  longefl  intervals  of  fine  weather,  never 
rofe  fo  high  as  where  the  ice  was  more 
univerfal,  though  accompanied  with  wea- 
ther   much    lefs    ferene  3    an     appearance 

which 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.      265. 

which  I  regard  as  almoft  conclufive  of 
the  fpecific  atmofphere  of  the  ice.  The 
variation  of  the  barometer  from  79°  to 
80^  of  latitude,  appeared  to  me  to 
be  29  inches,  and  in  our  prefent  cruife, 
28  inches  nine  lines. 


CHAP.      XXXIII. 

Pajfage  towards  the  Coajl  of  America — The 
Land  of  Gallhamfques  is  pqffed,  but  is 
not  feen,  on  Account  of  an  impenetrable 
Fog — Referions  on  the  Formation  of  the 
huge  Mountains  of  Ice  ?net  with  on  the 
American  Coaji. 


I 


■^H  E  I  ft  of  July  we  were  in  lati- 
tude 76^,  longitude  11°,  and  the 
variation  of  the  needle  was  28^.  The 
fea  frequently  prefented  us  with  red  flefliy 
fubftances,  in  which,  according  to  fome, 
coniifts  the  natural  aliment  of  the  Whale  ; 
it  was  now  a  very  coniiderable  time  fince 
we    loft    fight    of   that    animal,    but    our 

courfe 


266    VOYAGE   TO   THE   NORTH   POLE. 

courfe  was  towards  the  coafl  of  America, 
in  the  vicinity  of  Gallhamfque,  a  fitua- 
tioîi  very  favourable  to  the  Whale  fifhing 
in  the  month  of  July,  and  accordingly 
on  the  2d  Vv^e  caught  two  iifhes. 

It  now  became  much  more  neceilary 
to  be  cautious  how  we  interfered  with 
the  flioals,  than  in  the  month  of  May; 
as  they  were  flripped  of  that  thick  fnowy 
covering,  which  in  an  early  period,  con- 
tributed to  render  tlie  fliock  of  lefs  dan- 
gerous confcquence.  The  ice  derives  from 
îhe  heat  of  fummer,  a  kind  of  elafticity 
which  increafing  the  cohefion  of  its  parts, 
renders  it  ftiil  more  formidable  to  the 
navigation.  Belides,  as  the  bafes,  as  well 
S.S  the  flioals  themfelves,  in  the  weilern 
regions  of  the  ice,  are  much  more  ex- 
tenfive  than  in  the  leas  of  Spitzberg,  if  a 
fhip  comes  upon  them  with  the  wind,  fhe 
is  in  danger  of  overfetting,  as  on  a  lee- 
Ihore;.  an  accident  that  can  only  be  re- 
medied by  a  very  tedious  and  troublefome 
procefs.  It  v/as  occalionally  neceffary, 
however,  to  penetrate  where  it  was  choak- 
cd  up   with  fniall   ice,   and   in    this    cafe 

we 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.      267 

we  ran  the  fhip  again fl:  the  windward 
ice,  which  th^  iliock  feparated  from  the 
other  bodies  to  which  it  was  attached. 
The  fliip,  in  recoiling,  now  prefled  againfl 
that  to  the  leeward,  and  fwept  it  to  a 
diftance.  In  fuch  lituations  we  manœu^ 
vred  the  fails,  as  has  been  already  de-» 
fcribed. 

The  thick  fogs,  fo  prevalent  in  thefe 
regions,  frequently  rendered  oar  navigation 
extremely  difficult  ;  but  at  the  fime  time 
they  feemed  to  become  temporary,  in 
pi^oportion  as  v/e  proceeded  towards  the 
v/eft  ;  an  alteration  probably  owing  to  our 
being  in  the  vicinity  of  the  land  of  Gall- 
hamfque.  The  fea  prefenting  itfelf  fome- 
times  green  and  fometimes  of  a  whitifli 
colour,  we  founded  frequently,  but  with- 
out finding  bottom.  The  vermilion  co- 
lour of  the  horizon  gave  notice  of  a  land 
atmofphere,  while  the  birds  flying  back- 
wards and  forwards  in  the  fame  direélion, 
fliowed  it  was  at  no  great  diftv^nce. 

On   the  8th,   our  latitude  was   j^'^   é\ 

longitude   13^;  the  thermometer,  expofed 

3  to 


208      VOYAGE   TO   THE   NORTH   POLE. 

to  the   fun  at   our  inferior  noon,   rofe   to 
3^^,  we  ftill  faw  drifted  iirs. 

The  ice  had  begun  to  break  up  in  all 
diredions  ;  and  the  exploiion  it  made,  which 
was  heard  feveral  times  in  the  courfe  of 
an  hour,  was  hke  that  of  a  cannon,  or 
the  fall  of  a  high  pile  of  timber;  a  noife 
which  was  repeatedly  echoed  from  the  ad- 
jacent flioals.  The  fhoals  are  compofed 
of  different  ftrata  of  ice,  united  by  com- 
preffion,  and  confolidated  in  one  mafs  by 
fubfeauent  freezing.  The  eminences  ob- 
ferved  on  the  upper,  and  which  are  equally 
frequent  on  the  under  furface  of  the  flioal, 
ariie  from  ccmpreffion,  and  are  nothing 
hut  detached  fragments  of  ice,  which  had 
been  hurled  by  concuflion,  partly  above 
and  partly  below,  while  in  both  fitua- 
tions  they  come  to  be  cemented  to  the 
principal  mafs.  I  obferved,  in  the  lofty 
fhoai  abovementioned,  a  compofition  of 
different  fragments,  w^hich  had  been  forced 
up  and  down  in  the  manner  now  defG:ibed, 
and  thus  added  to  the  elevation  of  the  whole 
above  the  furface  of  the  water. 

As 


VOYAGE   TO   THE     NORTH   POLE.     269 

As  foon  the  heat  and  moifturc  of  fum- 
mer  firip  off  the  covering  from  the 
llioals,  the  cement,  by  means  of  which 
their  feveral  parts  cohere,  is  diiTolved, 
their  union  ceafes,  and  the  eminencies, 
which  rife  above  the  furface,  depending 
on  the  fame  principle,  tumble  down.  The 
fhoal  in  the  mean  time  is  often  un- 
.equally  difcharged  of  its  burden,  and  hav- 
ing appendages  below,  which  have  a  ten- 
dency to  float,  it  dips  at  one  end  and 
flarts  at  the  other.  The  elevated  part, 
€xpofed  to  the  action  of  the  air,  and  re- 
ceiving no  fupport  from  the  water,  be- 
comes brittle  and  breaks  off,  efpecially 
if  it  is  extenfive  and  happens  to  be  loaded 
with  loofe  ice  at  the  extremity.  In  a 
fhoal  thus  coniifting  of  a  feries  of  dif- 
ferent parts,  we  often  find  that  the  lower 
ilrata  extend  only  partially  over  the  bafis 
of  thofe  immediately  above  them;  now, 
after  the  fnow  on  the  top  comes  to  be  dif- 
folved,  the  fhoal  emerges  in  proportion  to 
its  diminiflied  gravity,  and  the  higher 
flrata  ceafe  to  bear  upon  the  water;  in 
the  mean  time   the  waves  repel  the  fides 

6  of 


270       VOYAGE   TO  THE  NORTH  POLE* 

of  the  ice  that  reft  upon  their  furface  * 
when,  at  laft,  the  incumbent  mafs,  being 
only  fuftained  at  its  center,  falls  in  a 
thoufand  pieces. 

Thefe  particulars,  however,  limply  apply 
to  ice  in  the  form  of  fhoals  ;  for  fuch 
is  the  enormous  extent  of  what  is  tei^med 
a  bank,  that  it  is  expofed  to  the  fame 
accidents  only  in  a  very  inferior  degree^ 
Their  deftrudiion  feems  to  be  occalioned 
folely  by  their  mutual  interferences,  and 
the  rolling  of  a  high  fea  after  it  has  been 
agitated  by  a  ftrong  gale  of  wind.  Obferv- 
ing  the  edges  of  the  ice  immediately  ap- 
plied to  the  furface,  eaten  or  carved  into 
feftoons,  I  wjilied  to  know  whether  this 
appearance  was  produced  by  heat  or  the 
fridiion  of  the  water  ;  but  the  thermome- 
ter, plunged  into  the  fea,  rofe  from  3*^  to 
4°  4>  ^^à  I  believe  the  air  in  thefe  re- 
gions is  never  of  a  high  enough  tempe- 
rature to  diifoive  folid  ice. 

I  was  a  good  deal  furprifed,  that  in  this 
navigation  we  met  with  nothing  fimilar 
to  thofe  mountains  of  ice,  which,  ifluing 
from  Hudfon's   Bay,   and  Davis's   Straits, 

float 


VOYAGE   TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.     Iji 

float  along:  the  coj.fl  of  America.  The 
higheft  ice  I  have  feen  m  this  voyagff 
was  only  ahont  thirty-five  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  fea,  an  elevation  which  bears 
but  a  fmall  proportion  to  that  of  thofc 
huge  maiïes.  I  am  fatisfied  the  little 
mole  hills  of  Spitzberg  are  generated  from 
compreffion  ;  but  I  find  it  more  difficult 
to  explain  in  what  manner  the  icy  moun- 
tain, fo  often  {g.zw  in  Û\q  Anierican-feas, 
grows  up  to  fuch  an  amazing  height  ;  it 
feems  impofiible  to  conceive  a  degree  of 
cold  intenfe  enough  to  freeze  water  at  fo 
great  a  depth.  Davis's  Straits,  however, 
if  ^ve  may  believe  navigators,  contain  little 
ice,  but  in  the  form  of  mountains,  or 
fhoals  of  very  moderate  dimenfions  ;  and, 
from  the  particulars  they  relate,  I  am  led 
to  conclude,  that  the  mountain  of  ice 
is  a  compound  body  made  up  of  parts, 
which  once  exiiled  independently  of  each 
other.  When  the  mariner  finds  it  expe- 
dient  to  moor  his  fliip  on  one  of  thefè 
floating  mafles,  he  obferves  that  the 
pickax  makes  the  whole  to  rcfound,  fhake, 
and  fometimes  to  detach  fragments,  which 

roll 


fjl     VOYAGE  TO  THE  NOHTIi  POLS. 

roll  into  the  fea  ;  circiimftances  which 
evince  the  unincorporated  ilrudure  of  the 
mountain,  and  confequently  that  nothing 
but  compreffion  can  account  for  the  ori- 
ginal union  and  cohelion  of  its  various 
parts.  In  rilking  a  conjedlure  on  this 
fubjeâ:,  permit  me  to  fuppofe,  that  in  the 
northern  regions  of  America  there  are 
very  exteniive  lakes,  giving  rife  to  deep 
and  copious  rivers,  which  are  much  con- 
tradled  at  certain  intervals;  that  the  ice  in 
its  defcent  from  thofe  great  inland  refer- 
voirs  choaks  up  the  narrow  pafTages,  while 
frefh  fupplies,  conflantly  carried  down  by 
an  impetuous  current,  and  forced  to  feek 
an  egrefs  below  the  obflrudion,  adhere 
from  preffure  to  the  accumulating  mafs; 
but,  in  this  fituation,  from  its  fpecific 
levity,  the  ice  gradually  emerges  high 
above  the  water,  and  in  procefs  of  time  . 
burfts  into  the  ocean  in  the  form  of  a 
majeftic  mountain. 

Continuing  our  cruife  towards  the  weft, 
jour  latitude  on  the  nth,  and  12th, 
was  74*^  40'',  our  longitude  from  15^^ 
to  1 6?  by  the  meridiap  of  Paris;  the  va- 

riatioa 


VOYAGE   TO   THE   NORTH   POLE.      273 

nation  of  the  needle  30°  towards  the 
north  wefl,  according  to  the  report  of 
the  feamen,  it  is  33^  clofe  into  the  land 
of  Gallhamfques.  Owing  to  a  moil  ob- 
ilinate  haze,  I  was  denied  the  pleafjre  of 
viewing  this  coail;  but  v/e  fpoke  a  veffel 
which  had  obferved  it  ten  leagues  weft 
from  where  we  fell  in  with  her. 


CHAP.     XXXIV. 

Defcriptlon  of  the  Coajl  of  Gallhamfqites-^ 
Lnportance  of  the  Whale  Fijhery,  and 
the  Encourageme?2t  it  receives  from  dif- 
ferent Nations  of  Europe — The  Pradfica- 
bility  of  penetrating  to  the  North  Pole 
itfelf  further  invefigatcd. 

THE  (liores  of  Gallhamfques  are 
frequented  annually  by  the  whale 
iifliers,  who  have  coafted  the  land  from 
the  y6^  to  the  70^^  of  latitude,  where 
it  is  feparated  from  Greenland  by  a 
ftrait  of  more  than  2  c  leagues  in 
breadth.  Hitherto,  no  navigator  has  pailed 
Vol.  III.  T  this 


2;î'4    voyage  to  Tke  nor^h  pôIê. 
this     lirait,     but     it     is     fuppofed,     with 
ibme  reafon,   to  communicate  with  Baffin's 
Bay.     It   is  oblervcd    by    the  fifhers,  that 
the    Whales     ftruck    at    the    entrance    of 
Baffin's  Bay,  not  far  from  Women's  liland, 
fwim  in  the  direâiion  of  this  land,    where 
the   l€a  fpreads  out  to  fuch  an  extent   as 
to  have  no  vifible  boundary.    The  Whales 
killed  on  the  coaft  of  Gallhamfques,  come 
from  the  well:  fouth  v/eft,  and  are  exactly 
the  fame  in  fize  and   fliape  with   thofe  of 
Davis's  Straits.     Nov/ it  is  to  be  obferved, 
that  none  of    t'-.e  fame  defcription  are   to 
be   founds   either    on    the    eafl    coaft     of 
Greenland,   or  at  Cape  Farewell  j   whence 
J   conclude,   that  they  iffiie    through  that 
opening  where  the  coafls  are  feen  to  ter- 
minate  under   the   latitude   of  70^.      In- 
deed   it    can    fcarcely    be    doubted,    that 
their   progrefs    is    from    Baffin's  Bay,    and 
Davis's  Straits,    fince    it    is    certain    that 
Whales  are  caught  on  the  coafl:  of  Gall- 
ham.fques,    with    harpoons    in    their    fïe(h 
made  of  ftone,  and  in  all  refpeds  fimilar 
to  thofe   ufed   by   the   favages   of  Green- 
land. 

The 


VOYAGE   TO  THE  NORTH  POL  E.       2/5 

The  coaft  towards  the  north  is  not 
Very  high,  the  ground  feems  tolerably- 
level,  and  the  foundings  begin  five  or  fix 
leagues  from  land;  fouthward,  however, 
the  land  confifls  of  high  round  hills,  like 
thofe  of  Spitzberg,  and  off  that  part  of 
the  coaft  there  is  no  bottom.  Fifteen 
leagues  from  fhore,  in  the  eall  fouth  eail, 
and  under  yi'^  ^  oï  latitude,  lies  a  hnà 
bank,  whofe  mean  foundings  are  ninety 
fathoms.  But  the  ordinary  navigators  of 
thofe  feas,  more  bent  on  harpooning  the 
Whale,  than  on  examining  the  coaft, 
have  no  deiire  to  go  on  ihore,  and  give 
themfelves  very  little  trouble  refpe6ling 
the  circumftances  of  this  navigation.  My 
indefatigable  Dutchmen  having  fpied  a 
Whale,  immediately  gave  her  chace  ;  giv- 
ing me  leave  to  ruminate  on  my  dif- 
appointment  at  not  being  permitted  to 
explore  a  coaft,  which  lay  within  fo  fiîlall 
a  diftance,  and  the  particulars  of  which 
are  fo  little  known.  I  was  much  pleafed 
however,  tîiat  an  opportunity  had  occurred 
of  fatisfying  my  own  mind  as  to  its  ac- 
tual exift'Giîce.  The  longitude  of  Gallham- 
T  2  fques. 


276      VOYAGE   TO  THE   NORTH   POLE. 

fques,   according   to    obfervatlons  made   ir$ 
going   and   returning,   which    I    compared 
and    corredled    with   all   the    accuracy   in 
my  power,   is    17^    wefl,  with   a   latitude 
of  74^   2o" ,  a  pofition  which  agrees  tole- 
rably well  with  the   report  of  fuch  navi- 
gators,   as    lay   it    down   under    the    fame 
parallel   of  the    meridian   with   the    ifland 
Tenerif.     But  with  refpedt  to    that   part 
of  the  American  continent   found  on  the 
charts  under  the  latitude  of  Spitzberg,  and 
faid  to  have  been  difcovered  in    the  years 
1655   and    70,    the  moft   experienced   and 
intelligent   navigators   of  my   acquaintance 
feem   to   have  no  knowledge  of  it   v/hat~ 
ever.     For  my   own  part   I   can  .give  no^ 
credit  .to  the   report;    fince  in   thofe  days 
mariners  feldom  ventured  to  penetrate  into 
the  ice,   much   lefs    to   purfue   a    weflern 
navigation;  probably  the  coafi:  of  ice,-  hav- 
ing  been   termed  by  the  whalefifhers    the 
weft  ccaf!:,    had  led  to  this  miilake;   and 
accordingly  we  find  a  coafl  aâually  traced 
in   this   very   fpot    on    lome    of   the    old 
Dutch  charts.      I   have  no   doubt,  how- 
ever,   of   the    exiilence    of   land    in    the 

quarter 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE,    277 

quarter  of  the  north,  ior  I  have  obferved 
on  diiterent  occafions,  fhoals  covered  with 
earth  and  fand  to  the  north  and  north 
eafl  of  our  prefcnt  cruize.  Now  the  di- 
rection of  the  currents  in  thofe  parts 
being  towards  the  fouth,  this  ice  could 
not  poffibly  have  come  from  any  other 
than  the  quarter  of  the  north,  iince  it 
was  plainly  too  far  to  tlie  weft  to  have 
been  detached  from  the  feas  of  Spitz- 
berg.  Befides,  the  immenfe  number  of 
flioals  and  banks  of  ice,  which  cover 
the  furface  of  the  ocean  all  the  way  to 
thefe  iiles,  could  not  have  failed  to  in- 
tercept its  progrefs.  Should  it  be  alledged 
that  it  might  have  been  drifted  by  a 
northern  current  from  the  fhores  of  Spitz- 
berg,  and  afterwards  circulated  hither, 
ftill  it  is  evident  thlt  the  fouthern  cur- 
rents, which  muft  in  this  cafe  be  fup- 
pofed  to  have  received  it,  would  have 
floated  it  down  with  much  lefs  weflern 
longitude. 

The   fight   of  the   Whale    had    carried 

us  backward  towards  the  eafl,  from  fhoal 

to    fl^ioal,   without    the    fmalleft    fuccefs. 

T   3  .  The 


278       VOYAGE   TO  THE  NORTH   POLE. 

The  fea  was   become  perfecSlly  open,  and 
the    Whale    feemed    to     have    taken    his 
final   leave   of  us.       But,    were    the    fea-. 
fons    in    general   equally    produdive    with 
the  prefent,   the  whale-fifliery  would  con- 
flitute   a   very    lucrative    article    of  trade, 
Sonie  veiTeis  returned  home  this  year  from 
the   ice,    with    a   profit  of  300  per  cent, 
to    their    owners  ;     a     fuccefs,     however, 
which  is  extremely  precarious,  in  fo  much, 
that  the  fpeculator  in  this  branch  of  trafiic, 
often    fuficrs    a    lofs    of   more    than    one 
half  of  the   money   employed    in   it.      It 
is,    neverthelefs,    an    excellent   nurfery   for 
feamen,  and    in    this   view,    as   it    requires 
little  expence,     befides   what    is   neceflary 
for  provifions  and   the   pay   of  the    fliip's 
company,  is  regarded  by  all  the  northern 
powers  as  an  objeâ:  ©f    great  public  uti- 
lity.     Hence    the  parliament     of    Greàt- 
Britain   grants  a  bounty   to  fuch  of  their 
iliips  as  remain  in  the  ice  until  the  20th 
of  Aup-ufi:.      The  king  of  Denmark  en- 
courages    the   fame   fpecies   of  induftry  in 
his  fubjeâ:s  by  his  own   example  j   équipa 
ik'ips  annually    for    the    north    feas,    ancj 

carries 


VOYAGE   TO  THE   NORTH   POLE.      279 

carries  on  the  hufinefs  upon  his  own  ac- 
count: his  Swcdidi  majefty,  I  am  told, 
has  adopted  a  fimilar  poHcy. 

Recolle^tin":  now  the  ardent  délire  I 
entertained  when  beyond  8i^  of  lati- 
tude, of  attempting  to  penetrate  to  the' 
pole,  I  am  deiirous  to  eftimate  by  fon.e 
data  the  practicability  of  this  projed:,  and 
therefore  iliall  throw  into  one  view  my  ob- 
fervations  on  all  the  circumftances,  particu- 
larly the  movements  of  the  ice.  1  am 
convinced  from  the  prodigious  force  with 
v^hich  I  have  {^cn  the  fhoals  adl  upon 
each  other,  that  though  the  ocean  may 
be  caught,  as  it  were,  by  furprife,  in  the 
midjft  of  a  fcvere  winter,  yet  from  the 
convulfions  which  prevail  incefFantly  among 
thefe  enormous  malles,  it  cannot  remain 
long  under  arrell^  "indeed  the  ftrucflure 
of  the  flioals,  which  confill,  as  has  already 
been  obferved,  of  many  different  parts, 
feems  fufficiently  to  Hiew  that  this  is  ac- 
tually the  cafe.  The  fmall  ice  too,  which 
we  faw  drifting  in  chips  with  the  cur- 
rents, is  generated  from  the  furface  of 
the  channels,  which  are  occallonally  frozen, 
T  4.  but 


280      VOYAGE   TO   THE   NORTH   POLE. 

but    afterwards    broken   and   fet    afloat  by 
compreffion.       Now,    the   motion   of  the 
water  being   the  primary  caufe  of  all  the 
revolutions   of  the   ice,    and    as    wherever 
there  is  a  fea  there   will  be  currents,   it  is 
evident  that    compreffion  mufl  take  place 
over  the  whole  frozen  zone,  not  excepting 
the  pole,  provided  the  fea  extends  to  that 
region   of  the    globe  ;    banks    and    flioals, 
wherever    they    exift  mull  have    room    to 
move;    nay,   their  confiant  changes  origi- 
nating with  the  currents  unavoidably  pro- 
duce it  ;   whence   I   infer,    that  the  fea   is 
not  one  folid  miafs,  nor  is  navigation  im- 
poffible   even   at   the  pole.      Beyond    8i° 
of  latitude,    I    faw    the  fea   difcharged   of 
thofe  vafc  fhoals  which   had    lately   com- 
pofed  one  compad:  body  of  ice,  but  which 
the  currents   had    broken    up   and    drifted 
northward.     They  had  confequently  found 
room,   and  a  fea   but    partially  frozen,   in 
the   vicinity   of    the    pole.      In    the    year 
3773  fome  Dutch  veilels  found  it  poffible 
to  return  from  the  very  center  of  the  ice, 
fo    late    as    the   end   of  November  ;     and 
it  appears  from  the  voyages   made  by  two 
Q  Dutch 


VOYAGE   TQ  THE   NORTH    POLE.     2^1 

Dutchmen,  HamrKerk  and  Barem,  to 
the  north  eaft  of  Nova  Zembla,  as  well 
as  from  the  journals  of  Ruffian  naviga- 
tors, employed  to  furvey  the  dillances  be- 
tween the  rivers  Lena,  Junifen,  and  the 
Oby,  that  in  thofe  feas  they  Vv^ere  often 
fliut  in,  and  as  often  libcratec],  by  the  com- 
motions of  the  ice  ;  v.'hcnce  we  may  ob- 
ferve,  that  the  chan:^es  and  revolutions  fo 
incident  to  the  flioals  are  prevalent  in  the 
high  latitude  of  the  Siberian  feas,  and 
north  from  Nova  Zem.bla,  evcxi  during- 
the  ftrong  frofts  at  the  end  of  the  month 
of  November, 


C  II  A  P. 


2S2    VOYAGE   TO  THE   NORTH   POLC. 


CHAP.     XXXV. 

The  Seas  of  Siberia  and  Spttzberg  are 
noi  the  befi  calculated  for  a  Faffage  to 
the  IS: or t h  Pole — The  CompreJJion  of  the 
Ice  and  every  other  Obfacle  tnay  be  fiir- 
monnted  in  fuch  an  undertaking— ^T he 
Precautions  in  Point  of  Seafon,  &c, 
^dokich  fould  be  obfer^oed  in  a  fmilar 
Expedition — The  Vefel  dire 51  s  her  Cniirjd 
for  Europe  J  and  pqfes  by  the  Ifand  of 
fahn  May  en  y  which  is  defer  ibed^ 

'ERE  I,  however,  to  conduâ:  an 
expedition  to  the  pole,  I  fliould 
not  Cileem  either  the  fea  of  Siberia  or 
that  of  Spitz  berg,  as  the  nioft  favour- 
able to  my  voyage  ;  the  Siberian  fea  being 
flint  up  towards  the  fouth,  and  afford- 
ing little  egrefs  to  the  eail  and  wefc, 
mufi  be  perpetually  loaded  with  ice  ;  while 
that  of  Spitzberg,  receiving  confiant  fup- 
plies,  fron:>  the  eaftern  currents,  to  its  own 
/hoalSi    is    cq^ually    ineligible.       Between 

Spitzberg 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.      283 

Spitzberg    and    Nova    Zembla,    however, 
lies  a  large   tra(ft  of  fea,   which   from   its 
ereat  extent  and   the  outlet    it    affords   to 
the   ice,  w^ould   in    my  opinion   be   found 
iDUch   more   practicable.     The    experience 
of  the   navigators   I    have   cited,    and  my 
own   obfervations   on   what    pafTes   in    the 
ice,    fliew   how   neçelîary   it  would   be  to 
keep  at  the  greatefl  poflible  didance  from 
land.     I    do    not    fupppfe,   however,   that 
there  exifts    to   the    north   north    weft   of 
Nova    Zembl^   any   fea  entirely   open  ;    I 
only   wiili  to   infer,   that   the  fea  in   that 
quarter  being  but  moderately  furnilhed  with 
ice,  is  probably  not  lefs  fufceptible  of  na- 
vigation,   than   we    find   it   about   twenty 
leagues  to  the  north  weft  of  Spitzberg, 

I  am  of  opinion  that  it  is  abfolutely  im- 
polTible  to  navigate  the  fea  of  Siberia,  fo 
as  to  reach  India  by  a  north  eaft  pafTage 
in  one  feafon.  This  part  of  the  ocean, 
for  reafons  I  have  mentioned,  muft  be 
eternally  crouded  with  fhoals  of  ice;  a 
fituation  in  which  a  feaman  being  obliged 
to  purfue  a  very  circuitous  courfe,  and  to 
navigate  his    fhip    with    little    fail,    ever» 

under 


2S4    VOYAGE   TO   THE  NORTH   POLE. 

under  the  mildefl  and  mcil  favourable 
breezes,  cannot  be  iuppofed  to  make  fpeedy 
progrefs.  Neverthelefs,  I  think  it  by  no 
means  impofiible  to  perform  five  hundred 
leagues  in  the  fame  diredlion  in  one  fea- 
fon,  acrofs  a  fea,  as  I  have  prefamed  it  to  be, 
but  moderately  incommoded  vvith  ice. 

Befides  that  the  ice,  as  has  been  fliown, 
occupies  the  fame  fpot,  but  in  a  tran- 
fient  manner,  and  that,  from  its  confiant  , 
iîuduations,  fliips  far  from  land  feldom 
remain  locked  up  for  any  coniiderablc 
time,  the  refources  of  the  faw,  cables, 
and  poles,  enable  the  failors  to  open  the 
Ibip's  way  through  any  moderate  obilruc- 
tion.  Of  all  the  expedients  I  have  feen 
praftifed  on  this  voyage,  that  of  the  faw, 
provided  the  fliip  does  not  labour  under 
compreffion,  as  it  extricates  the  veiTel 
from  confinement,  feems  to  me  the  moft 
important.  Perhaps,  in  cafes  where  the 
ice  may  be  of  too  gréait  a  depth  for  the 
application  of  the  faw,  a  feparation  might 
be  effedled  at  the  articulations  of  the 
fhoals,  by  a  very  powerful  fpecies  of 
pulley. 

But, 


Voyage  to  the  north  pole.    2$^ 

But   what    I  regard    as    the    chief  and 
moft  invicinble  obftruclion  of  all,  is  com- 
preiïlon  j     and    therefore,   befides    that    the 
fliip,  deftined  for  the  pole,  iliould  be  con^ 
flrudled   in  the   beft  and  moft    impregna- 
ble   manner,     I    fhould    propofe    to    have 
on   board   a    fmall   decked   vefTel,     having 
her    fides  bound,    and  her  keel  fhod  with 
iron,  and   at   the  lame   time  light  enough, 
to    be   capable    of    being    holfted    on    the 
ice.     With    this   reiburce,.  fliould  the  fhip 
be  expofed  to  the  laft  misfortune,   I  mean 
that  of  bulging  among  the  flioals,  as  her 
auxiliary  bark  would  be  portable  over  the 
ice,     as  circumftances    might  require,   and 
confequently  little  liable  to  a  fimilar  acci- 
dent, the  voyage  might  ftill  be  continued. 
Were  the  navigator,   I  imagine,   thus  equipt, 
to  hit  upon  a  trad  of  fea  exempted  from 
any  violent  agitation,  the  expedition  could 
fcarcely  fail  of  fuccefs  ;   and  having  vilit- 
ed  the  pole,  he  would  find  little  difficulty 
to   return   in   fafety,    by    croffmg    through 
the  iho?As  of  Nova   Zembia  to  the  White 
ièa. 

If 


285      VOYAGE  to  THE  NOI^TH  POLE, 

If  ever  a  navigator  fhould  be  foiincf 
hardy  enough  to  undertake  this  curious 
paiTage,  he  fhould  fail  towards  the  end 
of  February,  and,  paiTing  along  the  weft  ■ 
of  the  German  Ocean,  endeavour  to  get 
in  view  of  the  ice  by  the  end  of  March, 
in  order  that  he  may  be  in  a  fituation 
to  avail  himfelf  of  the  firfl  opening  of 
the  flioals.  This  is  the  period  of  ren- 
dezvous for  fuch  as  are  employed  in  the 
Sea- wolf  iiihery,  at  the  ifland  St.  John 
Mayen  ;  and  the  Spitzberg  Whale  filhers 
frequently  reach  the  80^  of  latitude,  by 
the  15th  or  20th  of  April.  The  fhips 
deftined  for  Davis's  Straits  beyond  the 
latitude  of  Ji^,  fail  from  Europe  in  the 
iirft  days  of  March,  though  the  place 
of  their  deftination  is  much  more  fub- 
jeâ:  to  boifterous  winds  than  the  north 
feas.  The  month  of  March,  therefore, 
or  the  beginning  of  April,  is  by  no  means 
too  early  in  the  feafon  ;  efpecially  if  we 
confider  that  the  moll:  ferene  weather  in 
thofe  regions  occurs  in  the  months  of  , 
April,  May,  and  June,  and  of  what  con- 

fequcnce 


VOYAGE   TO   THE  NQ-RTH   POLE.      Z^J 

iequence  it  is  in  this  navigation  to  have 
a  diftindl  view  of  furrounding  obje6ls. 
The  latter  part  of  June,  and  the  whole  of  Jaly 
and  AugLifl:,  are  thick  and  rainy  j  but  then 
I  am  allured,  that  the  voyager  leaves  the 
haze  behind  him  as  he  rifes  into  a  higher 
latitude,  and  indeed  it  feems  to  confift 
with  reafon,  that  as  the  fun's  rays  di- 
niinifli  in  force,  they  iliould  exhale  a  pro- 
portionally fmaller  quantity  of  vapour. 

On  the  14th  our  latitude  Was  73°', 
longitude  7*^,  and  confequently  we  had 
made  confiderable  progrefs  on  our  rctura 
eastward.  We  now  toolc  in  freili  water, 
which  is  an  operation  of  little  labour  or 
difficulty.  After  laying  the  fhip  along 
fide  a  bank,  we  opened  in  the  fnow  a 
number  of  fmall  channels,  which  con-- 
dudled  the  water  from  its  courfe  into 
pools  prepared  to  receive  it;  when  hav- 
ing hoiiled  out  and  filled  our  callsis  upon 
the  ice,  they  were  rolled  back  and  put 
on  board  the  fliip.  The  ice  is  of  an 
even  furface,  a  circumilance  which  fici- 
litates  the  procefs. 

My 


2oS      VOYAGE   TO   THE   NORTH   POLE. 

My  Dutchman  being  fatisfied  with  his  car- 
go of  fifh,    prepared  to  withdraw  from  the 
ice  on  his  return   home;  and  on  the  i8th 
we    faw    John     Mayen's    iHand,     fituated 
fouth  1,  foUïii-weil:,   at  the  diftance  of  ten 
leagues.       The'  northern     point    of    this 
ifland   is    in    the   latitude   of  72°,    and   in 
9*^    1^0"    weft   longitude  ;    the  variation    of 
the  needle  23*^.     It  may  ealily  be  diftin- 
guiihed  by  what  is  called   Bears's   Moun- 
tain,   v/hich    is    very    high    an^    abrupt. 
This    mountain    feems    to    be    about    two 
fliort  leagues  in  circumference  at  the  bafe, 
and    its    form    is    that    of  a   fugar    loafj 
terminating'  in   two   fliarp   points  at    their 
fummits.      The   ridge    feems    to    be    lefs 
ûœp   towards   the   eaft   than   towards   the 
weft.     It   ftands    half  a   league  from  the 
north   eaft    corner    of  the   ifland,    and    is 
feen  at  a  great  diftance.     In   the  vicinity 
of  Bears's    Mountain,    we  obferved     three 
fmall  round  hills.     St.  John  Mayen's  ifle 
is  in  length  nine  leagues,  from  the  north 
eaft  to  the  fouth  weft  extremity,  and  two 
leagues  in  breadth.     Ships  come  to  anchor 

in 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.      289 

in  the  north  weft  of  the  ifland,  oppofite  to 
the  moft  northerly  of  the  round  hills.  In 
front  of  the  fame  little  rifing  ground, 
there  is  likewife  anchorage  ;  but  by  no 
means  equally  good  with  the  former. 


CHAP.      XXXVI. 

T/je  Regiofis  of  Ice  are  pajjed,  and  the  Fact 
completely  ejiablijlocd,  that  the  Congelation 
of  Water  forms  a  peculiar  Atmofphere — 
Several  new  Species  of  the  Whale  are  feen 
end  defer ibed — Senfble  Difference  between 
the  Northern  and  Southern  Climates  near 
the  Poles — Paffage  into  the  German  Ocean, 
and  Arrival  at  Amjîerdam, 

TTI 7"  E  had  now  a  view  of  the  fea 
^  ^  in  its  ordinary  fluid  ftate  ^  one 
chain  of  ice  only  was  feen  towards  the  eafl, 
while  a  confiderable  fwell  on  the  furface 
fhewed  our  proximity  to  the  open  fea.  In- 
ftead  of  our  former  haze,  numbers  of 
Vol.  hi,  U  thick 


290    VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

thick  white  clouds  appeared  floating  in  the 
regions  of  the  air;    and  the  ftate  of  the 
weather  refembled  that  of  a  day  in  autumn. 
In  the    courfe    of   fome  hours,   however, 
we  had  fnow,    which  fell  in  fmall  flakes, 
with  the  wind  at  north  eafl:.     Our  fnow 
in  the  earlier  part  of  May,  as   I  have  al- 
ready obferved,   imitated  the  down  of  the 
caterpillar,    or    thin    fcales     fhaped     like 
croflTes  ;    while   that  which  fell  during  a 
haze,   was  in  the  fhape  and  iize  of  a  pin. 
The  configuration  of  the  particles  of  fnow, 
a  fmall  drizzling  rain,  and  intervals  of  a 
louring  {ky,  with  the  fall  of  the  barometer, 
were  clear  indications   of  a  palpable   diflîè- 
rence  between  the  atmofpheres  of  water  and 
ice.     I  cannot  regard  fo  material  a  change 
in  the  nature  of  the  air  as  accidental,  hap- 
pening as    it  did   at   the  moment  of  our 
tranfltion  from   the  climate  of  a  frozen  to 
that  of  a  fluid  fea. 

On  the  19th  we  doubled  the  lafl  chain 
of  ice,  fituated  towards  the  Eafl;  the 
waves,  recoiling  from  the  thaw,  caufed  a 
very  rough  fea  in  the  fame  quarter^  but 
the  fwell  fubfided  in  proportion  as  we  pe- 
netrated 


VOYAGE   TO  THE  NORTH  POLE,       2gt 

iietrated  the  main  Tea.  Next  day  a  high 
rolHng  fea  fetting  in  from  the  eafl:  north 
eaft,  that  is  to  fliy,  from  the  northern  cape 
of  the  great  continent,  the  fhip  rolled 
in  a  moft  difagreeable  manner;  but  this, 
too,  generally  diminiflied  as  we  doubled  the 
înain  land.  Three  particular  fpecies  of 
whale,  the  BeaupQtJJon  or  fine  fifli,  thé 
"Nordlajfen,  and  Cagelot,  are  izç,]\  occafion- 
ally  in  this  part  of  the  ocean.  The  firfl 
is  the  animal  of  the  largefl  dimen fions  that 
has  hitherto  been  difcovered,  being  about 
fourfcore  feet  in  lengtli  ;  he  furniflies, 
however,  a  fmaller  quantity  of  blubber 
than  the  ordinary  whale,  and  the  whale- 
bone is  lefs  elaflic*  This  fea  moniler  is 
but  feldom  feen,  and  is  probably  the  fame 
mentioned  by  iî^gide,  the  Dani/h  miilion- 
ary  in  his  voyage  to  Greenland.  *  The 
Nordlaffen  is  of  a  fmaller  fize  than  the 
common  whale,  and  differs  from  her 
in  point  of  refpiration  ;  which  the  fird 
performs  by  blov»/ing  the  vv^ater  forward, 
and  the   lafl,  by  blowing  it  backward  to- 

*  Perhaps  this  is  the  fifli  which  has  given  rife  to  the  ac- 
count of  the  fabulous  monfler  denominated  the  Kraken. 

U  2  tliis 


292       VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE, 

wards  its  tail.  The  Cagelot,  in  place  of 
whalebone,  has  forty-eight  teeth,  and  in 
this  refped:  differs  likewife  from  the  com- 
mon whale  ;  the  teeth  confift  of  a  fine  fpe- 
cies  of  ivory,  which  I  have  feen  employed 
as  the  materials  of  very  handfome  buttons. 
Thefe  three  fpecies  of  fifh  are  feldom  met 
with  in  the  interior  regions  of  the  ice. 

This  is  a  very  difmal  climate;  for  as 
foon  as  the  wind  gets  a  little  eailerly,  we 
are  fure  to  have  a  little  drizzling  rain; 
and  though  we  are  at  times  favoured  with 
the  fun,  the  air  is  habitually  damp,  and 
much  more  difagreeable  to  the  feeling  than 
that  of  the  ice. 

On  the  24th,  our  latitude  being  66^ 
18'',  and  longitude  6^,  we  were  nearly 
under  the  fame  parallel  with  Iceland. 
Though  the  thermometer  had  been  rifi ng 
ever  fince  we  reached  the  open  fea  in  lower 
latitudes,  our  climate  was  by  no  means  im- 
proved. At  the  ifland  of  John  Mayen,  the 
mercury  varied  from  2^  to  4^  ;  and  here 
it  flood  from  9°  to  11^  above  frofl.  In 
this  quarter  we  prefer  a  weft  to  an  eafterly 
courfe,  on  account  of  the  frequency  of 
the  v/eft  wind  ;  befides  which,    we  are  not 


VOYAGE  TO  THE   NORTH   POLE.    293 

a  little  apprehenfive  of  rocks  and  currents 
in  the  gulph  of  Drontheim  ;    whence  it  is 
almoft  impodible  to  retire  with  a  wind  of 
that  defcription. 

I  made  it  my  confiant  bufinefs,  on  this 
voyage,  to  compare  the  northern  with  the 
fouthern  climates,  and  am  now  fatisfied 
they  are  very  diffimilar.  Judging  from  the 
thermometer,  the  temperature  of  the  air, 
in  latitude  70^  north,  approaches  that  of 
50^  fouth,  by  a  difference  of  only  ^^  or 
5^.  In  the  fame  fouthern  latitude,  the 
barometer  was  fo  low  as  26  inches  10 
lines,  v/hilll  its  fmalleft  elevation  in  the 
north  feas  was  28  inches  4  lines.  I  believe 
thefe  two  latitudes  70^  north  and  50^^ 
fouth,  to  be  pretty  fimilar  in  point  of  wind 
and  weather,  though  in  different  periods 
of  the  year  ;  the  end  of  April,  or  the  be- 
ginning of  fpring  in  the  north,  correfpond- 
ing  to  the  end  of  December,  or  the  month 
of  January  in  the  fouth.  I  admit,  how- 
ever, in  comparing  thefe  equivalent  latitu- 
des, that  I  met  with  lefs  hoar  froft,  and  an 
inferior  degree  of  cold  fouth,  than  north, 
in  -correfponding  feafons. 

U  3  The 


294    VOYAGE   TO  THE   NORTH   POLE, 

The  wind  varying  little  from  the  quar- 
ter of  the  fouth,  we  Vv'ere  threatened 
with  a  tedious  pafTage,  At  the  open- 
ing of  the  coaft  of  Iceland  and  Etland 
ifles,  we  felt  the  ferocious  fouth-weft  blafls 
of  Hudfon's  Bay  and  Davis's  Straits,  Pro- 
bably the  bold  coafls  of  the  above  iflands 
contributed  to  produce  a  very  high  fea  ; 
but  the  wind  Shifting  to  the  northweft, 
the  fwell  abated  by  the  time  we  came  op-, 
pofite  to  Etland.  On  the  31  ft  of  July, 
we  entered  the  German  Ocean,  and  faw 
the  termination  of  a  very  long  day.  We 
were  now  obliged  to  place  a  candle  iri 
the  binnacle,  to  fhew  us  the  compafs  ;  al- 
though on  the  preceding  day  I  v/as  able  to 
read  by  the  twilight  at  twelve  o'clock  at 
night.  Meanwhile  our  latitude  was  62^ 
25'''';  the  Sun's  declination  18"  21'^,  and 
cpnfequently  9^  14^'  below  the  Horizon. 
Thus  one  day,  confifting  of  96  times  four 
and  twenty  hours,  cam.e  to  a  termination. 
Having  paiTed  without  being  able  to  difcover 
the  Etland  Ifles,  the  fight  of  Mackerel 
fatisfied  us  that  we  were  now  within  the 
boundaries  of  the  German  Ocean.     I  arn 

convinced 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.      295 

convinced,  by  frefh  obfervations,  that  here 
the  direction  of  the  currents  is  towards  the 
north;  the  wind  varies  Httle  from  the  fouth, 
fhifts  at  times  towards  the  weft,   but  rarely 
towards  the  eaft  point.  The  atmofphere  be- 
comes lefs  damp  and  unpleailint.    We  took 
all  poflible  advantage  of  the  wind  confift- 
ently  with  our  keeping  in  a  v/eftern  courfe. 
On  the  5th  of  Auguft  we  reached  the  end 
of  the  Dogg-er-Bank,  in  thirty-lix  fathoms 
water  ;  but  the  wind  being  at  fouth  fouth 
€aft,  we  foon  loft  it.    On  the  1 1  th  we  were 
on   the  fouthern  quarter  of  the  fame  bank, 
with  eleven  fathoms.     Towards   the  fouth 
weft   the  bottom  is  mixed  with  fmall  flint 
ftones,   and  is  the  fame  as  at  little  Well- 
Bank  ;  but,  towards  the  German  coaft,  it  is 
compofed  of  a  ftrong  yellowifh  clay.     At 
the  fouthern  extremity  of  the  bank  the  cur- 
rents feem  to  bear  eaft  north  eaft  ;    and  as 
we  leave  it  behind  us  the  found  increafes. 
The  14th  the  lead  gave  us  feventeen  fathoms 
at  Breeveertien,   a  bank  which  rifes  from 
the  province  of  Holland,  like  the  bill  of  a 
bird,  and  runs  out  to  a  point  tov/ards  the 
north  eaft.    As  foon  as  wc  came  in  view  of 
U  4  the 


296       VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE. 

the  iûe  of  Tex  el,  we  took  a  pilot  on  board  j 
but  the  currents  having  carried  us  more 
to  the  eaftward  than  we  imagined,  we 
found,  to  our  furprife,  that  v/e  were  eaft 
from  the  entrance  to  the  roads.  The  wind 
being  a  head,  we  entered  the  Zuiderzee, 
by  a  pafTage  lying  between  the  iflands 
Flieland  and  Terfchelhng,  which  we  got 
along  fide  of  next  day.  Flieland  maintains 
one,  and  Terfchelling  two  light-houfes  j 
from  the  laft  of  thefe  iflands  extends  a 
fand  bank,  exhibiting  breakers,  a  league 
into  the  fea.  The  wind  continuing  ftill 
right  a  head,  we  were  obliged  to  tack  in  a 
very  confined  channel  -,  the  diredion  of 
which  is  pointed  out  by  buoys  Rationed 
at  the  end  of  the  bank.  By  the  time  we 
reached  the  coafl:  of  Frifeland,  and  came 
in  view  of  the  town  of  Harlingen,  which 
is  a  ftation  for  fhips  of  wa",  Vv'e  were  in 
condition  to  tack  with  more  eale  and  ad- 
vantage. Entering  a  new  channel  we  came 
in  fight  of  the  city  of  Enkuifen,  and  the 
little  ifle  of  Urk,  and  arrived  without  in^ 
convenience  at  Pampus  Bank,  where  fhips 
frequently  get  aground.  This  bank  afford- 
ing 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.      297 

ing  a  fufficient  depth  of  water  for  fliips  of 
imall  burthen  only,  is  to  be  coniidered  as 
the  ftrong  bulwark  of  Amfterdam.  In 
conveying  fhips  of  war  from  this  depart- 
ment to  the  places  of  their  deftination,  the 
Dutch  employ  floating  machines,  named 
Camels,  which  being  laid  under  the  vefTel 
at  low  water,  owing  to  their  flat  and  ex- 
tended ba fes,  float  them  confiderably  at  the 
return  of  the  tide.  I  proceeded  to  Am- 
fterdam,  at  the  difl:ance  of  five  leagues, 
where  I  had  the  pleafure  to  receive  frefh 
infl:ances  of  that  kindnefs  and  civility  I  had 
experienced  previoufly  to  my  departure  for 
the  North  Seas.  I  ùw  the  city  of  Haer- 
lem,  and  the  very  agreeable  environs  of 
Bloumendal  ;  but  as  I  found  no  opportu- 
nity at  Amflerdam  of  croiling  to  the 
Englifh  coafl:,  I  fet  out  for  Rotterdam, 
where  I  met  with  a  veflcl  ready  for  the 
ifland  of  Guernfey.  Rotterdam  is  a  very 
handfome  town,  extremely  commercial,  and, 
in  point  of  fize,  yields  to  none  in  the  United 
Provmces  but  that  of  Amfterdam.  Here 
the  Englifli  appear  to  carry  on  a  very  con- 
fiderable  part  of  the   trade,    and  upon  a 

more 


298      VOYAGE   TO  THE  NORTH   POLE. 

more  extenfive  fcale  than  in  the  capital. 
I  defcended  the  Meufe  to  Brille,  a  fmall 
fortified  town  near  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
and  fet  fail  the  9th  of  September. 


CHAP.      XXXVII. 

Fcijfage  from  Rotterdam,  through  the  Brîtîjlj 
Channel  y    to  the   IJJand  of  Guernfey,  and 
from  thence  to   the  IJland  of  Breha,    in 
Lower  Brittany — Arrival  at  Bref, 

IT  requires  confiderable  attention  in  the  pi- 
lot, on  this  pafiage,  to  avoid  the  banks  of 
Zealand  and  Flanders,  as  well  as  the  points 
of  the  Goodwin  Sands,  which  form,  towards 
the  fea,  the  road  of  the  Downs.  Having 
fallen  down  the  Englifh  Channel,  until  we 
came  in  view  of  the  Ifle  of  Wight,  we 
crofTed  over  to  pafs  into  the  race  of  Alder- 
ney,  a  ftrait  formed  by  this  ille  and  the 
coaft  of  Normandy  ;  we  entered  the  race 
late  in  the  evening  with  little  wind,  and 
it  was  our  intention,  if  we  could  gain  the 

point 


VOYAGE   TO   THE   NORTH   POLE.     299 

point  of  the  iile  of  Sark,  to  pafs  the  re^ 
niainder  of  the  night  near  the  land,  out 
of  the  reach  of  tlie  currents  ;  but  by  the 
time  v/e  came  in  fight  of  the  Sark,  the 
wind  fell  to  a  dead  calm  ;  a  thick  haze 
fucceeded,  and  being  now  within  the  Race, 
it  would  have  been  highly  imprudent  to 
have  thought  of  a  retreat.  Mean  while  wc 
were  the  fport  of  the  currents,  and  bc^came 
entirely  at  a  lofs  what  courfe  we  ought  to 
fteer;  in  general  we  made  it  our  buGnefs  to 
keep  as  much  as  poffible  in  the  line  of  the 
fhore  ;  but  about  ten  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing we  difcovered  ourfelves  drifting  fad 
upon  a  reef  of  breakers  ;  we  hove  the  lead 
and  found  only  ten  feet  water,  the  (hip 
drawing  nine  and  an  half.  I  am  unable  to 
imagine  by  what  accident  we  efcaped,  on 
this  occafion,  without  touching  the  bottom; 
perhaps  the  recoil  of  the  waves  might,  in 
a  critical  moment,  have  driven  us  to  the 
windward  of  the  rocks.  We  took  this 
reef  for  the  great  Amphroques,  but  found 
afterwards  that  it  is  a  chain  of  rocks, 
fituated  in  their  north  çail,  which  are  co- 
vered at  high  water.     We  pafTed  a  very 

difmal 


300     VOYAGE   TO   THE   NORTH   POLE. 

difmal  night  ;  and  upon  the  return  of  day 
a  calm  and  haze  ftill  confined  us  in  the 
fame  perilous  lituation.  After  a  fmall 
iliower,  hov/ever,  the  wind  fprung  up  and 
we  reached  the  Ifle  of  Sark,  between  which, 
and  the  lile  of  Arn,  we  entered  a  paiTage 
called  the  Great  Ruau.  We  coafled  the 
Sark  till  we  came  almofi:  oppofite  to  St. 
Martin's  point,  in  the  fouthern  extremity 
of  the  liland  of  Guernfey.  This  pafTage, 
from  a  long  chain  of  rocks  which  ftretches 
to  the  fouthern  point  of  the  lile  of  Arn, 
is  by  far  the  beft  from  the  Sark  to  Guern- 
fey. We  fleered  upon  the  points  of  St. 
Martin,  eafl,  from  which  we  dropped  an 
anchor  undiflurbed  by  the  currents,  and 
waited  till  the  return  of  the  tide  enabled 
us  to  proceed  along  the  coafl  and  enter  the 
harbour.  In  gaining  the  anchorage  at  St. 
Martin's  point,  we  made  it  our  bufinefs 
to  keep  at  an  equal  diilance  between  that 
point  and  a  fmall  fandy  creek  in  the  north 
eaft,  above  which,  and  on  the  highefl  part 
of  the  creek,  ftand  a  church  and  guard- 
houfe;  the  fouth  point  of  a  reef  of  rocks, 
extending  from  the  Ifle  of  Arn,  ferves   to 

lead 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE.    301 

lead  the  eye  to  the  guard-houfe,  which 
ftands  near  a  mill  on  the  Sark  ;  and  in 
clcarino^  the  rocks,  the  Am  li^^ht-houfe 
begins  to  be  feen.  The  coaft  of  Guernfey 
feems  to  be  wholly  inaccefTible,  except  at 
the  fandy  creek  above-mentioned,  na- 
med, I  believe,  St.  Nicholas,  and  the 
harbour,  oppofite  to  which,  on  a  fmall 
ille,  flands  a  caftle  for  the  protedion  of 
the  iliipping.  The  harbour  is  formed  by 
two  piers  making  two  fides  of  a  fquare,  the 
palfage  into  which  might  be  intercepted  by 
a  chain.  It  affords  accommodation  to 
merchant- fliips  only,  and  even  the  largeft 
of  thefe  are  obliged  to  break  bulk  before 
they  can  enter  it  ;  fome  remain  at  anchor 
under  the  fort.  The  capital  of  Guernfey 
is  a  large  open  town,  populous,  and  tole- 
rably well  built;  it  has  muchjefemblance 
to  the  ancient  town  of  Lower  Brittany, 
while  the  country  in  general  differs  little 
from  fuch  parts  of  France  as  are  fituated 
on  the  oppofite  fide  of  the  Channel.  The 
people,  whom  I  ufed  to  regard  as  little 
better  than  a  hord  of  fmugglers  and 
pirates,   have,    to    my    furprife,    none    of 

thofe 


^02      VOYAGE  TO  THE   NORTH  POLE. 

thofe  rude  furly  manners  which  feem  to 
charaderize  the  Englifh  populace  ;  but,  on 
the  contrary,  a  fincere  and  unaffedled  affa- 
bility of  charadier,  analogous  to  the  pri- 
mitive manners  of  the  Francs.  I  was 
admitted  ealïly  into  fociety  ;  mixed  in 
family  parties  ;  and,  in  fhort,  was  enter- 
tained in  all  refpeds  more  like  a  relation 
than  a  ftranger.  Here  is  the  firft  example 
I  have  met  with  of  citizens  of  credit  and 
charader  forming  themfelves  into  a  club, 
the  objeâ:  of  which  is  to  relieve  fuch  of 
their  members  as  happen  to  be  reduced  to 
neceffitous  circumflances  :  into  this  fociety 
no  feaman  is  adrnitted.  The  penfion  granted 
to  the  unfortunate  is  proportioned  to  the  age 
and  particular  defcription  of  the  petitioner's 
cafe.  I  attached  myfelf  to  the  fociety  of  the 
Bourgeoiiie,  or  citizens,  alone  ;  and  was  not 
a  little  aftonifhed  at  the  luxury  obfervable 
in  the  richer  fort.  The  militia,  confifting 
of  every  man  able  to  carry  arms,  is  under 
the  beft  difcipline  ;  and  the  people  at  large 
feem  to  have  the  fentiments  of  patriotifm 
engraven  on  their  hearts.  I  cannot  help^ 
however,  regarding  the  bold  rocks  and  cur- 

2  rents- 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  NORTH  POLE,       303 

rents  which  furround  their  fhores,  as  ths 
flrongeft  finews  of  their  defence. 

Here  I  met  with  fome  French  velTels 
from  Breha,  on  the  coafl  of  Lower  Brittany, 
and  embarked  for  that  ifland.  I  proceeded 
afterwards  in  a  canoe  to  Pampoul,  whence  I 
continued  my  journey  by  land,  and  arrived 
at  Brefl  on  the  27th  of  September,  1776. 


FINIS, 


/v     ' 


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